Not really. Build I built a lot of audio stuff, both for my personal use and for sale.carlmart. Yes. You've be at this for 5-years. Asking for op-amp models, LTspice simulations ad nauseam, searching for and quoting topologies and techniques but you never build anything. Doing a quick search here I see the top three op amps being 1) BB 627; 1a TI 827; and 2) BB 2107 There are your choices. And maybe a BB 1641/42 difet.
Has anyone tried the OPA828 as part of a RIAA preamp?
Having FET input and being reasonably low noise, it looks as a good candidate.
- carlmart
- Replies: 38
- Forum: Analogue Source
Simulations will tell you nothing more. The 627 was introduced by BB in 1989. It was Hi-$$ then as is now. It is still in the general "best of" conversations and forum chatter. (2008+) It is still hi-$$ b/c of curiously continuing demand; TI has to produce it on old fab lines - and they don't like that. Don't quote me.
But you have OPA627s in DIP8! So go for it. But, don't go for an everlasting search for "simulations". Go for the opinions of critical listeners. JMHO.
Maybe I'll shut up.Do you really think all that front-end RC stuff is necessary?
You probably noticed that the 220uF is out-of place.
I did. My recommendation is - stick with the OPA627.Has someone used the OPA828? Texas claims it to be the successor of the OPA627.
Care to elaborate why? Form factor?I did. My recommendation is - stick with the OPA627.
As I've written before what I do is to not use the jack's isolation rings and allow contact between all shields and the metal case. The outboard +/- 15V linear PS is isolated from Earth and its 0V point is bonded to the case and the PCB Gnd, The TT phono leads are isolated as well so the only Earthing is through the IC shields from the 3-prong-grounded main preamp's Line input jacks which are chassis-grounded.
Can you add to the drawing of your original schematic the different grounding implementations you mention above? Including the enclosure connection and where you connect the original AC transformer input ground.I usually do the same, and try to keep the area of the loop from the input connector to the amplifier input stage and back via the feedback network small. That is, the loop input connector, C2, op-amp, R12, C8, shield of the input connector.
You can give C8 its own dedicated return wire to the shield of the input cinch connector to ensure that even at low frequencies, the return path is what it should be and not some other ground path. This is useful when there is a relatively strong hum field because the mains transformer has to be in the same case for some practical reason or other. If you are not sure that the connection from the cinch connector shield to the case is always reliable, you can give C8 its own dedicated return wire to the shield of the input cinch connector and connect it to the ordinary circuit ground via a 47 ohm or so resistor as well.
Why would you want to put a transformer inside your enclosure or are you asking about an outboard trany with center-tap..?Can you add to the drawing of your original schematic the different grounding implementations you mention above? Including the enclosure connection and where you connect the original AC transformer input ground.
While looking into your suggestions...I usually do the same, and try to keep the area of the loop from the input connector to the amplifier input stage and back via the feedback network small. That is, the loop input connector, C2, op-amp, R12, C8, shield of the input connector.
You can give C8 its own dedicated return wire to the shield of the input cinch connector to ensure that even at low frequencies, the return path is what it should be and not some other ground path. This is useful when there is a relatively strong hum field because the mains transformer has to be in the same case for some practical reason or other. If you are not sure that the connection from the cinch connector shield to the case is always reliable, you can give C8 its own dedicated return wire to the shield of the input cinch connector and connect it to the ordinary circuit ground via a 47 ohm or so resistor as well.
See 1KHz scope shot of 36dB output crosstalk. Yellow = 130mV Right chan ghost. Blue = 8V Left chan driven.
See PC board layout drawing, schematic and pic. The Left driven input goes to the C20/R130 junction, leaves C20 via a short blue wire and terminates at the junction of U2’s + input pin 3 and R60. The Right ghost channel incorporates (as in the schematic) C2/R13, and a long blue wire (orange in pic) from C2 terminates at U1’s input pin 3 and R6.
Can you add to the drawing of your original schematic the different grounding implementations you mention above? Including the enclosure connection and where you connect the original AC transformer input ground.
Are you shorting out the 'unoccupied' input or at least using something akin to a cartridge. If the input is open circuit, I'd expect to see 'some' crosstalk.When driving one channel with my sig-gen with the other channel’s RCA unoccupied while scoping both outputs I see the real output on the driven channel and a much weaker but rather accurate ghost signal being output on the non-driven channel. .... The ghost signal is greatest (i.e. least dB separation) when the Left input is driven and both outputs are compared. It is not frequency dependent but the phase relationship does change with frequency.
First off, thank you DSP_Geek for taking your time to look into this,First off, I don't see how your ground is hooked up, presumably under the circuit board. I'd recommend soldering a hunk of 18 gauge bus wire all along the centre tracks on the PCB since you aren't using them for anything else. At 20 milliohms/metre (6 milliohms/foot in Freedom Units) the end-to-end resistance should be 2 milliohms, low enough for a decent low-Z reference.
C2: Major brain fart, perhaps. I didn't like that either. See attached with your suggestions but with R10/R11 left alone. However I'm still dismayed with the amount of low-freq coupling. I may also slime all the side-tracks with SnCuAg solder.What is C2 doing way down there by U2? It should be closer to U1 instead of being by U2 where it could pick up capacitive coupling, hinted by the signal changing in amplitude when you move the wires. I'd recommend moving it beside C80A, which has one end to ground so it shouldn't couple too badly to the input, with the downstream leg where R10 is now, and shifting R10/R11 one hole further down. Then R13 can be hooked up to the beefy central ground rather than being at the end of the side ground, which could be merrily bouncing from currents induced by U2
Not necessarily inside the box. The box has no relationship with AC Gnd except when connected to the main preamp. The isolated, outboard linear PS, the TT and cart and the phono pre are all tethered to the main system Gnd via the system's IC shield. That's all true in my system but not always.I'm not a huge fan of case-grounded connectors in general and RCAs in particular because they're factories for ground loops when a bit of corrosion intrudes, as it might between the gold plating and the aluminium box. I'd use insulated RCAs for at least the phono inputs and refer the coax shields to the central ground rail, which should be okay since cartridge coils are not hooked up together (apart from parasitic capacitance, of course).
I get that too. And don't like non-noble Al-on-Au connections. However, if made tight at first, AND there is no vibration or disturbance of the the original bright-metal-to-bright-metal contact then that contact can remain air-tight. A lot of connections under the hood of a car are not gold-on-gold b/c they are designed to be so tight that even under thermal cycling and/or extreme vibration, the tin-on-tin contact does not "fret". Example is the tin-plated, 1/4" Fast-on. But. point well taken.a bit of corrosion intrudes, as it might between the gold plating and the aluminium box.
Yes, but only tried a 1K R across an RCA plug. Ghost gone. But, seems to me at least that capacitance in the realm of 10ths of pF would be abundant. Crosstalk would be rampant.Regarding @JRA 's crosstalk: does it get better when you terminate the unused right-channel input with some impedance well below 47 kohm? When you short it, for example?
If so, it might be some capacitive crosstalk from the output of the left channel to the input of the right channel. As the left channel amplifies about 200 times at 1 kHz and the channel separation is roughly at -36 dB, a coupling impedance of about 200 * 47 kohm * 1036/20 ~= 593 Mohm would suffice. That's 0.268 pF at 1 kHz. In this case, I think you have to keep the long orange wire away from the output of the left stage.