20 seconds is too log, on the size of soldering pads like the ones in that amplifier I usually count 1-2-OUT in my head (making less than 3 seconds).
Also with 12 EUR irons...
What made you work so long and why multiple attempts on the joint?
You need to solve this problem before continuing (either on this amplifier or any other equipment) - tehse amps are "the easy ones" from soldering point of view 😉
Also with 12 EUR irons...
What made you work so long and why multiple attempts on the joint?
You need to solve this problem before continuing (either on this amplifier or any other equipment) - tehse amps are "the easy ones" from soldering point of view 😉
Temperature control is essential in a soldering iron for repeatable good results. If you use lead-free solder be sure its the sort with 4% silver or you'll struggle - the stuff without silver isn't for hand soldering AFAICT.
And this seems to be the main problem. I had one that I could dial the exact temperature on, but it disappear a few years ago.
I have been soldering for 50 years. This is the hardest to service amplifier that I have ever encountered.
If I decide to service it again, I will be completely disassembling it.
But for now I will be purchasing a BGW, which is actually designed to be serviced (unlike the amp in question), with the proper soldering station.
20W seems to be not enough.
Before buying a "weller" I used Vellemann TVTSS6 30/60W iron for years. Once you get used to it and do not leave it idle at 60W for long I do not see it as a "problem". 30W I used for resistor leads etc, 60W worked with larger planes (but with very large areas it was not cearly enough).
Also the soldering tip cannot be too sharp in cases when the soldering pads are larger rather than small.
Before buying a "weller" I used Vellemann TVTSS6 30/60W iron for years. Once you get used to it and do not leave it idle at 60W for long I do not see it as a "problem". 30W I used for resistor leads etc, 60W worked with larger planes (but with very large areas it was not cearly enough).
Also the soldering tip cannot be too sharp in cases when the soldering pads are larger rather than small.
The affordable Weller's appear to be junk these days, so I am not going there. Hakko's look better, but I am still searching for the best option in the $100 pricerange.
Also, the iron I currently have has a 20 and 40 watt setting. It's apparent that 20 watts wasn't enough, but I didn't want to risk it at 40.
30 watts would probably be sufficient?
30 watts would probably be sufficient?
I soldered (for hobby purposes) with the 30W (as main wattage) for years. With pads in a bigger (ground) planes 60W usually was enough. Very rarely I had to dig out a 75W iron.
Well, the solder I use has a reliable melting point of 183-C, yet it took too much time to make it flow @ 20 watts.
Is the wattage too low, or is it a problem with my iron?
Is the wattage too low, or is it a problem with my iron?
Cannot tell, but if you cannot melt your solder then I would bet on iron problem.
Edit:
183F converts to 84C according to Google - are you sure about it?
The solder melted immediately when applied directly to the tip, which was properly tinned.
The tip is a point type however.
The tip is a point type however.
Point type is ok but these come with different tip radiuses. The sharper ones do not conduct that much heat so I have always at least two different ones to swap depending on the mass being soldered.
It's the sharp type. With my other station, I used an oval tip set at 380-F, which worked within a couple of seconds of applying it.
Then you should use a tip with bigger radius and see if it can save you a change of the iron 😉
I decided that I am going to purchase a station that I can precisely control the temperature to the tip.
I have been successfully using such stations since the '70's.
The modern ones appear to be unreliable, so I am looking at vintage models. My main concern is finding readily available tips and heating elements for them.
I have been successfully using such stations since the '70's.
The modern ones appear to be unreliable, so I am looking at vintage models. My main concern is finding readily available tips and heating elements for them.
Heaploads of tips and probably elements are available "anywhere" - starting from eBay/Aliexpress and ending with Mouser.
The practical problem is that the unbranded "Hakko" (just as an example) tips may be ca 0,5 mm too short or too long and you have to start mechanical adjustments. So my advice is to buy only branded/original tips ignoring the fact that others are way cheaper.
Why would you say so? My Weller is so heavy that it has to have a transformer in it and the adjusting electronics can probably be replaced with spare parts.
Nowadays nothing is built to last forever, but good brands last much longer...