I did say a 26cm2 hole on the baffle, didn't I?Shouldn't the system you have described look more like the one shown in the attachment?
I'm so used plugging drivers specs into my MLTL template.
So, yes, either a hole on the bottom, or a hole on the baffle.
Nice looking!Managed to get this roughed out before we lost power last night, serious wind here. I'm liking it and now have a good idea of how I'm going to carve these box designs I have in mind for the SB12.
Small volume!
This is not the final volume, the back is a mirror of the front and I plan to bisect it on the bandsaw and make another piece for the back. This way they will match perfectly. It will be a small volume though, as it will be crossed around 300hz or so to an 8 inch...I think...at this point lol.Nice looking!
Small volume!
Appreciate that! I do like the way it looks.
This is spalted Maple and has insect tracks all through it, making it beautiful but a bit soft. When the enclosure is done I will submerge the entire thing in thin casting epoxy under pressure and let it be for 2 days. Then it will be extremely hard and take a nice finish. It will also be completely airtight and even falling off a counter won't bother it.
I see. good idea.
Wood being soft is not a bad thing. It should help kill resonances.
I used camphor wood over here, which is full of gooey resin. A lot less resonant than just plywood or a slab of hard wood.
Wood being soft is not a bad thing. It should help kill resonances.
I used camphor wood over here, which is full of gooey resin. A lot less resonant than just plywood or a slab of hard wood.
I will seal the driver openings of the enclosure so that the casting epoxy does not freely run in, then put it back on the lathe to finish and get a tight countersink for the driver. A few mm on the outside will be hardened, but there should still be a thickness on the inside that is not penetrated and remains soft. I could also add color, but I doubt I will with this piece.
Thank you, Perceval. Oh, and Solen in Quebec is showing two of the SB12 in stock. They are great to work with but sometimes their inventory is off.
Thanks, I saw that.
I'm actually in Qc right now, but even then, their pricing and local shipping quotes are more expensive than if I ordered from Madisound and ship it around the world!
I'm actually in Qc right now, but even then, their pricing and local shipping quotes are more expensive than if I ordered from Madisound and ship it around the world!
So, yes, either a hole on the bottom, or a hole on the baffle.
The port position is not the problem. If you want the driver to be "placed at 30cm from top", then the OD option should be used.
What was the drive level (volts) of this measurement?Measurement
Bare in mind this test box is 13" deep with a foam cushion stuffed in it, about 5.5" wide by 9 inches tall, and the front and back tacked on with an air gun...not exactly sealed. I don't usually measure anything in these boxes, just make different baffles to burn in drivers playing in the shop while I'm working.
Mic is 20cm from the driver to get a decent measurement considering it's not in a great spot and it is not countersunk either.
Considering all this, the worst of it would be a 3rd harmonic peak at 4200hz. That peak however is around 43db down...0.6%. 2nd harmonic hits about 0.5% at the break up point. Pretty damn clean and smooth.
Glad I trusted my ear and bought more, with a proper design these will shine. They sound laughably good right now considering what they're in.
Have you heard the MW13P-4?The satori MW16P 4ohm is probably the best larger driver I've heard full range. When I first got them I threw them on a small open baffle and boosted the bass a little...for a 6", that one did surprise me. Very open back also, and the rear radiation corrects the polar response a bit and evens out the room.
fantastic driver.
just stumbled on diypole's spalted maple....awesome
it reminded me of these I made many years ago with the tangband w5-1612
the baffle I took from Harry Olson's book, and it really does make a difference.
it reminded me of these I made many years ago with the tangband w5-1612
the baffle I took from Harry Olson's book, and it really does make a difference.
Value for money that driver, lookin' good.
Edit:
But yes, it is beamy. Come to think of it I do think most drivers over 3" or so are beamy.
Edit:
But yes, it is beamy. Come to think of it I do think most drivers over 3" or so are beamy.
Last edited:
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Full Range
- One of the top 3 full ranges I've ever worked with: SB12MNRX2-25-04