just zero it
according to LTSpice , it'll be around 2A Iq , but I can't confirm that in vivo - amp is too heavy (and in living room) and my back temporary not in best shape
I have FQ outputs in mine (geschenk from Generg) , and yet to install 2SJ/2SK
Hi Zen Mod,
I am getting more confused now on which resistor to zerolize.
just re-read my post with exact resistors nomenclature :
so - R13,R14 to 0R33
R11 to zero ; ignore previous post where I typed 100R , referencing R11 original value - that was brainfart or typo , whatever
ref. to schm in post #1 - decrease R13,R14
decrease R11 to (almost) zero
Iq will go up somewhat , but you ought to have that much reserve in heatsinks
so - R13,R14 to 0R33
R11 to zero ; ignore previous post where I typed 100R , referencing R11 original value - that was brainfart or typo , whatever
just zero it
I think someone already asked this, but you mean jumper? (= 0 ohms) or a .1 ohm?
Sorry to be thick, I'm out of 0.0 resistors.😀😀😀
Russellc
0 ohms
in that position you can also use 0R1 or even 10R ........ it'll be practically the same
in that position you can also use 0R1 or even 10R ........ it'll be practically the same
Good news RussellC. Yes tell us first impressions compared to your recent F6 build.
I am finding it all around more enjoyable than F-6 right now, will have to switch back after more listening. If anything, while M-2 has lots of detail, room echo from venue, micro sounds from acoustic instruments, etc., I find the F-6 maybe MORE detailed in some ways, approaching ever so slightly over detailed in comparison to M-2. M-2 seems ever so slightly rounded off, but in no way overly so. Plenty of detail. Majestic comes to mind...warm, relaxing very nice amp.
More listening needed, then swap back to F-6. Complementary output stage BA-3 amp still very pleasing as well.
As many have said before, the Pass Firstwatt amps are all good amps, excellent amps, just different good amps!
Russellc
damn , no
in fact - it'll be OK , if you're fearless amp builder asking for at least 3A2 Iq

(which means - fire extinguisher at hand)
in fact - it'll be OK , if you're fearless amp builder asking for at least 3A2 Iq

(which means - fire extinguisher at hand)
I think so, I did the same in my F5Tv3, two parallel 0.47Ohm resistors.
In a lot of (commercial and also Elektor) schematics the 2SK1530 and 2SJ201 uses 0.22 Ohm as source resistors.
In a lot of (commercial and also Elektor) schematics the 2SK1530 and 2SJ201 uses 0.22 Ohm as source resistors.
I know some of Greeddy Boyz are grasping M2 biasing mechanismus .
those who aren't sure how 's that actually working , better to stay away from tweaks
trimpot is there just for offset , bias is sort of auto ........ tightly determined with source resistors and few resistors connected to optocoupler
those who aren't sure how 's that actually working , better to stay away from tweaks
trimpot is there just for offset , bias is sort of auto ........ tightly determined with source resistors and few resistors connected to optocoupler
I know some of Greeddy Boyz are grasping M2 biasing mechanismus .
those who aren't sure how 's that actually working , better to stay away from tweaks
trimpot is there just for offset , bias is sort of auto ........ tightly determined with source resistors and few resistors connected to optocoupler
On the other hand, one learns more from screwups than things done right..........can get kind of expensive though! 😉
I am finding it all around more enjoyable than F-6 right now, will have to switch back after more listening. If anything, while M-2 has lots of detail, room echo from venue, micro sounds from acoustic instruments, etc., I find the F-6 maybe MORE detailed in some ways, approaching ever so slightly over detailed in comparison to M-2. M-2 seems ever so slightly rounded off, but in no way overly so. Plenty of detail. Majestic comes to mind...warm, relaxing very nice amp.
Russellc
You and I pretty much have the same impressions. The F6 is the most revealing amp I have ever heard. Everything in the audio chain better be as good as it or else you will think it is the amp. The F6 is a fantastic amp and was my favorite over the other 2 FW's I have built but this M2 is now my favorite. I compared the M2 with my favorite SET this morning. Both are very good but totally different. The M2 is better high and low and a great sounding smooth mid-range too. The SET is delightfully smooth in the mids with a great all around sound as well. It comes down to personal taste and what one likes at the time and mood they are in and to which I want to listen to at the time. Equally good but different is the way I am going to describe the 2 right now. Rockers will definitely prefer the SS sound. Being my latest build I went straight back to listening to the M2 after doing a short comparison. I am one happy camper.
😀
0 ohms
in that position you can also use 0R1 or even 10R ........ it'll be practically the same
Thanks!
Is it a good idea to use Black Gates for c2 and c3?
E.g.
c2 = BG N 10uf 50v
c3 = BG Std 3300uf 16v
What are minimal requirements for c2 voltage?
Thanks.
E.g.
c2 = BG N 10uf 50v
c3 = BG Std 3300uf 16v
What are minimal requirements for c2 voltage?
Thanks.
Is it a good idea to use Black Gates for c2 and c3?
E.g.
c2 = BG N 10uf 50v
c3 = BG Std 3300uf 16v
What are minimal requirements for c2 voltage?
Thanks.
I wouldnt bother whit BG as we have silmic II which is better!
Is it a good idea to use Black Gates for c2 and c3?
E.g.
c2 = BG N 10uf 50v
c3 = BG Std 3300uf 16v
What are minimal requirements for c2 voltage?
Thanks.
for my (old ) ears - there is no difference between :
1.industrial (125 deg. C) Elna electrolytic bypassed with 100nF MKC
2.Elna Silmic bypassed with 100nF MKC
3.Black Gate bypassed with 100nF MKC
except that BG is demanding painstaking long burn in
just re-read my post with exact resistors nomenclature :
so - R13,R14 to 0R33
R11 to zero ; ignore previous post where I typed 100R , referencing R11 original value - that was brainfart or typo , whatever
Thanks for your clarification.
Thank you!
But what are minimal requirements for c2 voltage?
Because of the V requirement of the amps itself 25V would be the minimum, I like 35V to have an extra measure of safety.
I doubt that there is 22 V at C2 but I would have to measure to check, other electronic wizards can do the math and tell you more precisely.
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Thank you!
But what are minimal requirements for c2 voltage?
ref. to which schematic ?
didn't I already answered that ?
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