OB

[carlthess40]

I’d like to know if I could make the baffle with concrete or granite, something a lot harder then wood. Maybe even carbon fiber
How would this help or not help
I’d like to use 12” and 8” full range drivers
And if I use the two different size drivers how would or would I need to use some type of simple 1st order crossover

 

[waxx]

I've helped some rich guy build a 5 way horn system where the horns were casted artificial marble (a marble geopolymer). It's certainly possible, also for an OB, but not easy or cheap to do.

 

[jameshillj]

Try curved & parabolic multiple-ply thick baffle, maybe 25mm thick - it's certainly strong/heavy/inert enough ...

 

[carlthess40]

I was thinking of using pre made peace’s for the motor board. Like granite or marble or something like that I could take it and have been cut the holes for the drivers my question is with the added weight and stiffness help. As you know wood can vibrate
Thanks

 

[waxx]

I was thinking of using pre made peace’s for the motor board. Like granite or marble or something like that I could take it and have been cut the holes for the drivers my question is with the added weight and stiffness help. As you know wood can vibrate
Thanks

Yes wood vibrate. But everybody tries to reduce that as much as pssible or move it out the passband with damping or bracing their speakers. Stone, artificial or natural is almost inert so actually better on that level.

 

[scottjoplin]

An option is to mount the driver to a sub frame, even by the magnet, and have it isolated from the baffle, then the priority becauses making the baffle out of something acoustically opaque

 

[woody]

I was considering using Corian even a 1/2" sheet of it seems rather heavy and inert.
But I have read it can be difficult to work with, some glues won't stick to it and you
can't use screws with it or it cracks. But on second thought a double layer of 3/4" oak plywood might be almost as good and a lot easier to work with.

 

[Halair]

I have used epoxy and sand to form a rigid structure inside a traditional speaker cabinet. The mix of flexible mass (epoxy) and rigid (sand/rock) form a very strong mass damping structure.

 

[perceval]

Done it.

Actually, I use a combination of materials to dampen the whole baffle.
There is stone, aluminium and plywood.

Each material having its own resonance, the layering kills them. They can play quite loud and be perfectly still.

 

[ttan98]

Done it.

Actually, I use a combination of materials to dampen the whole baffle.
There is stone, aluminium and plywood.

Each material having its own resonance, the layering kills them. They can play quite loud and be perfectly still.

hI,

What the Full ranger (4" ?) you are using? source from Mainland China(I had a look at Aliexpress looks similar to yours)? Your impression of the driver,? If you are very happy(your knowledge of drivers is beyond most DIYers here) I will get a pair to try any details would be helpful. Thanks for yr reply.
On second look yours looks like those from Tang Bang which model?

 

[picowallspeaker]

Done it.

Done it wrong.
The drivers are mismatched.
The (15" I guess) woofer should be a long stroke one, possibly not paper for not flexing the G-normous membrane, and of course a U shaped roll soft external suspension.
The (7-8" I guess) fullrange seems to have an inverse-U ext. susp. which is right for the task because it offers no obstacle to the waves having a similar WL to the one of the surround (usually) protruding.
Cannot comment on the whizzer cone

 

[perceval]

Eh?

Nope, the FR is from Tang Band, the 8" W8-1772.

Under it is a local 15" made driver, the highest Qts driver I could find in 15" locally (shipping 15" drivers is quite expensive).