OB

I was thinking of using pre made peace’s for the motor board. Like granite or marble or something like that I could take it and have been cut the holes for the drivers my question is with the added weight and stiffness help. As you know wood can vibrate
Thanks



Yes wood vibrate. But everybody tries to reduce that as much as pssible or move it out the passband with damping or bracing their speakers. Stone, artificial or natural is almost inert so actually better on that level.
 

woody

Member
Paid Member
2002-01-15 12:57 am
Tyrone Ga. U.S.A.
I was considering using Corian even a 1/2" sheet of it seems rather heavy and inert.
But I have read it can be difficult to work with, some glues won't stick to it and you
can't use screws with it or it cracks. But on second thought a double layer of 3/4" oak plywood might be almost as good and a lot easier to work with.
 

Halair

Member
2014-01-28 2:29 pm
Norway
I have used epoxy and sand to form a rigid structure inside a traditional speaker cabinet. The mix of flexible mass (epoxy) and rigid (sand/rock) form a very strong mass damping structure.
 

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perceval

Member
2014-02-21 8:17 am
Taiwan
Done it.

Actually, I use a combination of materials to dampen the whole baffle.
There is stone, aluminium and plywood.

Each material having its own resonance, the layering kills them. They can play quite loud and be perfectly still.
 

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ttan98

Member
2006-04-04 11:24 am
Melb
Done it.

Actually, I use a combination of materials to dampen the whole baffle.
There is stone, aluminium and plywood.

Each material having its own resonance, the layering kills them. They can play quite loud and be perfectly still.

hI,

What the Full ranger (4" ?) you are using? source from Mainland China(I had a look at Aliexpress looks similar to yours)? Your impression of the driver,? If you are very happy(your knowledge of drivers is beyond most DIYers here) I will get a pair to try any details would be helpful. Thanks for yr reply.
On second look yours looks like those from Tang Bang which model?
 
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Done it wrong.
The drivers are mismatched.
The (15" I guess) woofer should be a long stroke one, possibly not paper for not flexing the G-normous membrane, and of course a U shaped roll soft external suspension.
The (7-8" I guess) fullrange seems to have an inverse-U ext. susp. which is right for the task because it offers no obstacle to the waves having a similar WL to the one of the surround (usually) protruding.
Cannot comment on the whizzer cone