NOS TDA1541 + D1 I/V & output stage

It depends on what you want. For me, that dac has a lot of parts that would be abandoned, and too much cutting and splicing in of new parts and components that I would want.

For diy I would start fresh and build it the way I want. I did that, taking the path of I2S out of a single board computer ( I used an Odroid but Pi is popular too) to an isolator, to a FIFO and clock, to a I2S to simultaneous converter and finally to a TDA541A board.

Isolator and FIFO were from IanCanada (diyAudio) and I2S converter and TDA board from RyanJ (diyAudio).

I would consider this to be close to the state of the art for TDA1541A.
 
There are SPDIF to I2S converters available.

You can start simple with a SPDIF to I2S converter, then I2S to simultaneous converter, to the D3 board.

Or even simpler, you can start with the SPDIF to I2S converter to D3 board. The D3 board can accept either I2S or simultaneous signal.

Computer, isolator, FIFO/reclocker may be added later, or not.

Example of diy SPDIF to I2S:

SPDIF to I2S

Example of ready to use board with more features, may be used without computer:

IanCanada board
 
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I have the D3 board by diyAudio member Ryanj. It uses smd components, and for digital that is a good thing as it allows for optimum component placement. It has on-board voltage regulators and requires a +26V power supply and also a +5V power supply if the the 2mA output offset is to be nulled and on-board IV resistors are implemented.

TDA1541A D3 dac board

Here is a picture from the diyAudio D3 thread of the stuffed board:
 

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Thanks, Ben. It looks fantastic but I cannot solder a two-sided SMD board since I don't have the means and the skills :deerman:
Have you tried building anything smd? If you have a magnifier and a fine soldering bit it's really not a problem. Just practice and find what works for you. I do the blob one pad - hold the part with tweezers - melt the blob - slide into place - solder the other pad method. I built a D3 no issues. Have a go!