carpenter said:
Magura, you've been reading my mind...
I've been considering all the tasks required to revamp the motor. I could remove the solenoid coil and lock the mechanism with the starter gear in a fully extended position. This removes the 12v requirement to engage the gear.
I was planning to lower the voltage, thus the heat, and if that didn't work, rewire it.
I'm hoping to be able to wind larger wire than 11AWG. That's going to take a lot of torque for a 6" coil...
No, you got this the wrong way around. The higher the current, the more heat.
So, more windings, thinner wire
Magura
Anyhow, using a not suitable motor, even if you re-wind it, to get a sub-optimal result, and even pay more 
I think you should take a long hard look at your wallet, and see if you can't hear the money talk.
For half an hours work, and 50 USD at fleabay, you get a solution that actually works, and it fits your lathe.
Magura
I think you should take a long hard look at your wallet, and see if you can't hear the money talk.
For half an hours work, and 50 USD at fleabay, you get a solution that actually works, and it fits your lathe.
Magura
But wait... DIY is alive and well.
What if I connected that armature to an industrial drill motor? The gear (9 tooth) might be able to engage the (168 tooth) starter ring via the drill motor. I located a pillow block bearing that fit one end of the armature, chucked up the remaining free end and let her rip. It works. Looks like something you'd see in a Disney cartoon, but the thing works. I just have to mount the pillow block bearing and secure the drill-motor and I have a drive unit.
I considered connecting the 9 toothed gear to a 1700 RPM AC motor, but the reduction is not enough--90 RPM is way to high.
The drill motor has what appears to be 120 RPM or so. That nets approx. 6-1/2 RPM... nice an slow for a tight, flawless wind.
I've cleaned up the starter ring (flywheel), and ground off the hub surface until I saw shiny. I ground down the outside surface of the headstock hand wheel as well--chrome is too slippery for epoxy. Yes, I epoxied the two components together. That way, I can get the alignment perfect, and when the epoxy cures (several days) I can drill bolt holes and not have to worry about misalignment.
Rube Goldberg would be so proud...
What if I connected that armature to an industrial drill motor? The gear (9 tooth) might be able to engage the (168 tooth) starter ring via the drill motor. I located a pillow block bearing that fit one end of the armature, chucked up the remaining free end and let her rip. It works. Looks like something you'd see in a Disney cartoon, but the thing works. I just have to mount the pillow block bearing and secure the drill-motor and I have a drive unit.
I considered connecting the 9 toothed gear to a 1700 RPM AC motor, but the reduction is not enough--90 RPM is way to high.
The drill motor has what appears to be 120 RPM or so. That nets approx. 6-1/2 RPM... nice an slow for a tight, flawless wind.
I've cleaned up the starter ring (flywheel), and ground off the hub surface until I saw shiny. I ground down the outside surface of the headstock hand wheel as well--chrome is too slippery for epoxy. Yes, I epoxied the two components together. That way, I can get the alignment perfect, and when the epoxy cures (several days) I can drill bolt holes and not have to worry about misalignment.
Rube Goldberg would be so proud...
This just seems like a ton of work to build something that may or may not do what you are after. Part of my day job is dealing with DC generators aka motors. If you want, I will dig around at work tomorrow and see what we have laying around for returns from customers with complaints like "it made noise" or "it was damaged in shipping". I might be able to snag one of those as a freebie. I know that there are some 90 volt DC gear motors kicking around that have a 195:1 gear ratio. That might be too slow. Take a peek a grainger and see if there is anything there that might fit the bill.
Dave, you're so cool.
Actually, the brain-work is done. The physical isn't too bad--I just need to attach bolts to the starter ring when the epoxy sets, make a mounting bracket for the drive, create a tension device and I'm off. Off where? Magura would probably say "I'm off-my-rocker".
I'd never say "no" to a sweet deal on a DC motor.
You generosity makes me smile.
Actually, the brain-work is done. The physical isn't too bad--I just need to attach bolts to the starter ring when the epoxy sets, make a mounting bracket for the drive, create a tension device and I'm off. Off where? Magura would probably say "I'm off-my-rocker".
I'd never say "no" to a sweet deal on a DC motor.
You generosity makes me smile.
Looks like I have a 90 V 95.5:1 gear motor in parts on the bench. If you need it let me know. If you have a variac and a cheap rectifier bridge that thing will pull you across the room. Basically it is one of these.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6Z913
We bought one for prototype and needed a 24 volt motor in a new design. The 90 volt is used in the existing design. What is available is a new gear box with a used motor. Our prototype has the left over parts The manufacturer said we couldn't make that work, but what do they know.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6Z913
We bought one for prototype and needed a 24 volt motor in a new design. The 90 volt is used in the existing design. What is available is a new gear box with a used motor. Our prototype has the left over parts
The manufacturer said we couldn't make that work, but what do they know.
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