New TK2050 board

[Trebla]

I was using a HP smps and had the same issue. Ever since I switched to a ConnexElectronic smps It's been silent. A cheap Meanwell clone from EBay works well too if you don't mind the size

That's good to know. Thanks.
I'll get a better smps when funds allow.

In the meantime, i have enough bits to put together a decent linear supply.
Just out of interest.

 

[hifimediy]

Hi, Trebla. Pls contact us if you can't solve this problem.

 

[Trebla]

Hi, Trebla. Pls contact us if you can't solve this problem.

Thanks for replying.
The problem turned out to be the cheap SMPS, as expected.
I built a basic linear supply which works quietly, and there is a decent SMPS on the way.
So no problems now.
It's a nice amp.

 

[ctkhaw]

Have been using T1 for more than 1/2 year, then just a couple of hours ago detected burning smell and a few seconds later the amp went silent. Immediately switch it off and open up to check for any burnt parts but could not detect any. An hour later switch it on again, found that green LED is lighted but red LED is not, but still no sound.

But from hifimediy manual mention: I quote " The red light means that there is power connected, the green light means that the relays have turned on and the amp is functional. Normally both lights should come on. If the green light does not come one, either the voltage is too low or a technical problem has occured "

But in my case no red LED but got green LED !!

For info I am using ConnexElectronic smps300R

How to proceed from here.....sos

 

[ctkhaw]

Could anyone suggest how to do any diagnostic test to pinpoint to any possible component failure?

'hifimediy' input should be helpful.

btw I am using an unmodified T1 with 36V SMPS300R

 

[TheDealer]

Did you make any mods before ? And by the way: recommended voltage is about 28 V. For me 24 V are quite enough. No sense going into limits when you don't need.

 

[ctkhaw]

As mentioned earlier it is unmodified T1 - sta510a output chip.
Recommended voltage is 35-36V from hifimediy product page.

I have been using it for >1/2 year without problem.

 

[fakamada]

Hi. I just replaced my fully modded Sure with T2. My first impression is that there is less bass and less resolution. Is there any list of modificatios besides swapping input caps.? And mayby swapping volume pot for Alps?

 

[von Ah]

I've forgotten in the eons since this and the sure tk2050 started, but can these amps share a common (negative) output terminal? I'm thinking of trying center channel matrixing, like

 

[alkasar]

you can not. These are BTL amps, with floating output. You should not connect both speaker- together, and definitively not to 0V.

 

[von Ah]

thanks for the reminder.

 

[Malefoda]

SMPS options

Hi there,
finally I will start to set-up my T1, and got an Meanwell S-350 36V 9A I've previousely orered for that purpose.
But I got for free half a dozen of this SMPS, 48V 4.2A; (and 2x 12V 16A for info)
FlatPAC * 50-600 Watt Power System
As one ca see it's adjustable and already done to 35V but is it like a a linear tx and VA remaining VA I've got now 35V and 5.7A? Still less than the MW...


Second, sounds like a quiet PSU to me:

What is the switching frequency of your VI-200 / VI-J00 and Maxi, Mini and Micro converters?

Vicor VI-200 / VI-J00 and Maxi, Mini and Micro power converters use frequency modulated, quasi-resonant, zero-current switching in contrast to the pulse-width-modulated (PWM) switchers. As such, the operating frequency is both input line and output load dependant, and could range from under 100 kHz at light load, high line, to around 1 MHz at full load, low line. As a result, Vicors zero-current switching has much lower conducted and radiated noise levels than conventional pulse-width-modulation (PWM) converters, typically 20 40 dB lower.

So "few" noise vs less amp, worth try it?

Thanks,
Matthieu

 

[lloop9]

Heya fellows, would there be any other disadvantage of using T2 with 8 ohm speakers besides the lower power rating of 50W, compared to the T1 at 100W?

How do you guys describe the sonic character between the T1 and T2?

I'm using the amp for my Zaph ZBM4 mini speakers for near field listening on my computer desk, so I guess going with the T2 may be more future proof if I want to use it with 4 ohm speakers in the future.

Thanks for any advices.

 

[buteo]

headphone and T1

Hello,
I saw hifimedy sells a dedicaded headphone edition of the T1 amp. It seems too much to me to have two T1 amps, one for the speakers and one for the headphone, since I use only one of them at time .
Is it possible to add an headphone jack to the T1 output with some circuit modification? Will it worth?
THanks

 

[David_Web]

As T1 is fully bridged you can not add a headphone jack to ether model as that would short the two channels together.

One option is to use transformers to combine the two channels into common ground.
I do this with another amp to both lower noise (110dB compression driver) and send signal to both tweeters through one twinax cable with shield as common ground.

Is the 1.5V sensitivity for the headphone version a typo as the gain is 12x Vs 18x for the normal version? (18x gain assumed by 100W 8ohm and 1.5V sensitivity)
Or is the 8ohm rating 40W for headphone version.

Any figure for noise for the headphone version vs normal T1?
If it is indeed very quiet it could be perfect to drive compression drivers with.

Any plans for balanced input? Mainly T1 and T4.

Shipping from within EU made these amps way more attractive as that would mean a lot less hassle to get it home.

 

[dwillett]

Just had my second T-1 die.

I love, love, love the sound of the T-1 boards, especially with the Meanwell supply. Unfortunately, I had one of the v1.2 boards that shorted with smoke and sparks. (it's an issue thats been mentioned in previous posts).

I replaced the amp and power supply when the v1.3 boards came out, but now 5 months later that board has failed. Less spectacularly, but it wasn't working that hard when it expired. Red light lights, but green light is out. 30 volts and 5 volts are available on the board, but powering up does not activate any relays.

Use for both amps was pretty light duty feeding a pair of small 8 ohm monitors for video editing. They were in a proper metal case with clean power and well ventilated.

Is there an updated version of this amp? I don't know if there is a warranty on a DIY board, but my v1.3 was only 5 months old when it expired. (Sept 2012).

 

[b4rr3l]

latest Project

 

[v-bro]

Looks Nice, but all the audio wiring running past that open reel smps??

 

[minorchange]

I did some mods on T2 SE: changing input caps to huge 1uF Russian K75-10 paralled with a pair of 0.047uF Russian teflon K72-6, changing power cap to Elna for audio cap, add some paralell small MKP. I am using linear power transformer with hedfex low noise diode and using TL783 to fix voltage as 28VDC. After mod, sound became much much better than stock version. It is very sweet as tube sound but has more detail and powerful than tube amp. Quite happy with this kit!

 

[minorchange]

For your information: Russian K75-10 is better than K75-24 which some people here have exprerience with. Adding small teflon cap like K72-6 will improve mid range and sound stage a little bit