New TK2050 board

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Hot! Hot! Hot!

I am seeing heatsink temperature of 30C over ambient...with local temps approaching 30C. Need suggestions to extend the heatsink {or do I have a problem with my T2{M}?

Using 24Vac supply giving 35.5Vdc {appears the AC is higher then rated}
No input, no load, DC offset=0V

Thks...eng hoe
 
I conducted some experiments to try and isolate my noise problem. I rewired the input RCA plugs, including giving them a common ground, and double checked other wiring.

The 2ch T4 when powered up gives a high pitch sound from the amp itself (and when the speakers are connected too). The red LED comes on, but no sign of the relay green LED lighting up and no clicking sound.

The 1ch T4 (with grounded left channel) doesn't make a sound, the red LED comes on OK, but the relay green LED flashes on and off, with clicking sound, but eventually fails.

I rewired from SMPS800RE to each amp with all three wires (Live, Ground, Neutral). I noticed that these T4 boards have a different layout to my previous one (that also have mundorf caps). The SMPS800RE has been set to output 34V.

Can anyone point me to some potential problems?
 
T4 needs single voltage dc power supply or dual voltage transformer.
SMPS800RE is a symetrical voltage power supply (+/- voltage). How exactly have you wired the power supply to the amp ?

34Vdc is probably too low to trigger the relay. Specs says min voltage is 36Vdc.

Also, it sometimes helps to reference smps 0V output to earth. Either through a wire or a 10 to 100ohm resistor. This eliminates noise in some circumstances.
 
T4 needs single voltage dc power supply or dual voltage transformer.
SMPS800RE is a symetrical voltage power supply (+/- voltage). How exactly have you wired the power supply to the amp ?

34Vdc is probably too low to trigger the relay. Specs says min voltage is 36Vdc.

Also, it sometimes helps to reference smps 0V output to earth. Either through a wire or a 10 to 100ohm resistor. This eliminates noise in some circumstances.

Hmmm, looks like I made a mistake on the voltage. So, 34-0-34 is AC and I needed 36V+ for DC--- which I have on my other amp in DC mode. So, can I manually change the voltage on the SMPS800RE?
 
you can adjust smps800RE output voltage a little, 5% or so. There is a small potentiometer on board to do that, using a screwdriver.

However, the smps output is dc, not ac, and should be wired to T4 as a dc supply, like you did with 500RS (S stands for single) on your other amp.

Althought not recomended, you can try using only the V+ output and leave the V- unconnected. It's a pity as you lose hal of the smps power.

SMPS800RE is not suited for T4.
 
you can adjust smps800RE output voltage a little, 5% or so. There is a small potentiometer on board to do that, using a screwdriver.

However, the smps output is dc, not ac, and should be wired to T4 as a dc supply, like you did with 500RS (S stands for single) on your other amp.

Althought not recomended, you can try using only the V+ output and leave the V- unconnected. It's a pity as you lose hal of the smps power.

SMPS800RE is not suited for T4.

Thanks for the help, this project is taking me a lot longer than my previous amp and my knowledge is being stretched again, which is good :D

Which single SMPS would you recommend to run the two T4s?
 
To recomend a power supply, need to know how you will use this amp.
why not try with the 500RS of your other T4 stereo amp ?

maybe a bit offtopic but I hope you can give me answer. As here the RCA issue was discussed lastly I was wondering how channel separation works when R and L share same GND on for example T1 board . Isn't R and L channel connected together in this case ? I measured also a T2 board. Indeed R and L are connected together through the GND :confused: Thanks in advance for a tip
 
I will be using it as a 3 channel power amp to power LRC speakers. It will be feed source from my AV Receiver pre-amp outputs.
ok, so you need power on each channel.
For home theater, the center channel actually needs the most power. Maybe you coulld be happy with two SMPS300RS, one for L&R, one for the single C channel. With two separate smps, you would also eliminate the noise issue.
 
ok, so you need power on each channel.
For home theater, the center channel actually needs the most power. Maybe you coulld be happy with two SMPS300RS, one for L&R, one for the single C channel. With two separate smps, you would also eliminate the noise issue.

Thanks Alkasar. I will need to resolve my remote control switch issue again if I use two SMPSs (it took me a while to work out just one :D)
 
maybe a bit offtopic but as here the RCA issue was discussed lastly I was wondering how channel separation works when R and L share same GND on for example T1 board . Isn't R and L channel connected/mixed together in this case ? I measured also a T2 board. Indeed R and L are connected together through the GND

Thanks in advance for a short answer (maybe from yubing itself) if possible
 
maybe a bit offtopic but as here the RCA issue was discussed lastly I was wondering how channel separation works when R and L share same GND on for example T1 board . Isn't R and L channel connected/mixed together in this case ? I measured also a T2 board. Indeed R and L are connected together through the GND

Thanks in advance for a short answer (maybe from yubing itself) if possible

Yubing can provide better answer. Note that this is not limited to tk2050. All amps not designed a dual mono (ie fully separate channels and power supply) have the issue.
It creates a little crosstalk, not annoying unless the source has high output impedance.
You can hear crosstalk for example in the left speaker if you unplug both the left input and the rigth speaker. It is usually quite low.
 
Yubing can provide better answer.

My apologies folks !! It seems to be my month of defaults. I switched my multimeter to next wrong position. Instead to measure signal-pass I measured something else. Hope the pic shows the default position with the 2 triangles closed together. In this wrong position I measured signal-pass form GND to R/L and alltogether:(

Changed to right multimeter position there was no connection between the points:)

Bild0383.jpg
 
Does anyone have a problem with the T1 making a whistling noise at full volume?

There is also some low level hum which disappears when the whistling starts.

It maybe due to the Kodak smps i'm temporarily using.

Otherwise it's a very good amplifier, in my opinion.

I bet the Kodak PS is the problem. I was using a HP smps and had the same issue. Ever since I switched to a ConnexElectronic smps It's been silent. A cheap Meanwell clone from EBay works well too if you don't mind the size
 
Does anyone have a problem with the T1 making a whistling noise at full volume?

There is also some low level hum which disappears when the whistling starts.

It maybe due to the Kodak smps i'm temporarily using.

Otherwise it's a very good amplifier, in my opinion.

I bet the Kodak PS is the problem. I was using a HP smps and had the same issue. Ever since I switched to a ConnexElectronic smps It's been silent. A cheap Meanwell clone from EBay works well too if you don't mind the size
 
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