TERES BEARING.
Hi,
The Teres bearing assembly includes:
brass bearing housing
polished stainless steel spindle
threaded record centering pin (for use with a clamp)
custom nut for attaching the bearing
Teflon plated brass thrust plate
3/8" ball bearing
Their splindle is an integrated part of the bearing,oreover it it threaded for use with their own clamp.
In this case you can't possibly design for a split platter,using your current Michell clamp my even damage the threads.
While I'm sure this bearing is excellent and has very low noise,making the spindle + record clamp an integrated system is not such a good ieda IMHO.
Any residual noise in the bearing is now effectively coupled to the record.
Yes,it is held in place by the spindle.
If you were to put in on cones and then apply some pressure to the top surface it would break into small pieces.
The Morch is a damped unipivot,I'm familiar with it but I found Toms' Omega point arms beat it hands down.
In fact if you ever come across one of Toms' arms don't hesitate to buy it,they are exceptional and very easy to set up.
The Bluenote I don't know.
Cheers,
Hi,
The Teres bearing assembly includes:
brass bearing housing
polished stainless steel spindle
threaded record centering pin (for use with a clamp)
custom nut for attaching the bearing
Teflon plated brass thrust plate
3/8" ball bearing
Their splindle is an integrated part of the bearing,oreover it it threaded for use with their own clamp.
In this case you can't possibly design for a split platter,using your current Michell clamp my even damage the threads.
While I'm sure this bearing is excellent and has very low noise,making the spindle + record clamp an integrated system is not such a good ieda IMHO.
Any residual noise in the bearing is now effectively coupled to the record.
Yes,it is held in place by the spindle.
If you were to put in on cones and then apply some pressure to the top surface it would break into small pieces.
The Morch is a damped unipivot,I'm familiar with it but I found Toms' Omega point arms beat it hands down.
In fact if you ever come across one of Toms' arms don't hesitate to buy it,they are exceptional and very easy to set up.
The Bluenote I don't know.
Cheers,
Three balls support
Hi all,
There is a problem in splitted platter design worth closer look: contact pattern between main platter and subplatter. Three small cones mated with the cups cone recess seems to be the obvious choise. Ideally, the cone and the cup should contact on circular line. BUT, they never will, due to: 1) manufacturing inaccuracies, and 2) different temperature expansion factor of aluminium and vinyl/perspex. In other words, the contact become somehow loose, uneven and inconsistent. Everyone is aware of tight contact importance in tonearm bearigs, it also matters ewerywhere in vibration transmission path. The way to solve the problem is rather simple: get rid of superfluous constraint ties. The solid body has to have 6 degrees of freedom constraint to be fixed in space, not more. Practical design solution:
- three bronze adjustable pins with conical recess on top
- bearig balls about 5 mm diameter inserted in pin recess and slightly pressed for good contact
- three SS cups with different contact surfaces: cone recess, straight V-groove and plain surface.
So here we got circular line contact in conical hole, two point contact in the groove, and one point support on the plain surface: 3+2+1 = 6 degrees of freedom constraint. Temperature expansions and production tolerances are to be totally absorbed without additional side forces at the point of contact. Uncompromised vertical stiffnes and perfectly consistent contact is achieved at low cost.
Comments?
Hi all,
There is a problem in splitted platter design worth closer look: contact pattern between main platter and subplatter. Three small cones mated with the cups cone recess seems to be the obvious choise. Ideally, the cone and the cup should contact on circular line. BUT, they never will, due to: 1) manufacturing inaccuracies, and 2) different temperature expansion factor of aluminium and vinyl/perspex. In other words, the contact become somehow loose, uneven and inconsistent. Everyone is aware of tight contact importance in tonearm bearigs, it also matters ewerywhere in vibration transmission path. The way to solve the problem is rather simple: get rid of superfluous constraint ties. The solid body has to have 6 degrees of freedom constraint to be fixed in space, not more. Practical design solution:
- three bronze adjustable pins with conical recess on top
- bearig balls about 5 mm diameter inserted in pin recess and slightly pressed for good contact
- three SS cups with different contact surfaces: cone recess, straight V-groove and plain surface.
So here we got circular line contact in conical hole, two point contact in the groove, and one point support on the plain surface: 3+2+1 = 6 degrees of freedom constraint. Temperature expansions and production tolerances are to be totally absorbed without additional side forces at the point of contact. Uncompromised vertical stiffnes and perfectly consistent contact is achieved at low cost.
Comments?
Attachments
Livemusic, I like your idea but let me make a couple of points.
Thermal expansion keeps coming up and I really think it is almost moot due to environment that a TT will be operating in. I doubt any of us will have the TT in a place that goes below freezing or above 100 degrees(f). In any shop I have ever worked in, the temperature at which all materials are measured is 68 degrees(f), that is the golden rule, which is pretty much right in the middle of my EXTREME temperature range. I have made very close tolerance delrin, aluminum and steel parts in very hot and cold environments, and only once have I seen dimensions vary dramatically and that was with Delrin. The parts drifted about 0.0005(that's 1/2 of one thousand of an inch folks)which in our TT project does'nt amount to much. If we were operating the TT in an environment in temperatures <freezing and > 100 degrees(f), I would really be concerned.
If you press the balls in, you will have to go beyond the centerline of the ball to achieve a press fit so I would simply machine 90 grooves in each cup, making sure each cup is within 0.001 of each other and go deep enough so that the ball is retained a sufficient amount, no press fit, the balls will locate and maintain good contact with both cups.
I guess I don't understand the 6 degree philosophy, don't you think the high mass platters with the inserts/balls would be sufficient?
Thermal expansion keeps coming up and I really think it is almost moot due to environment that a TT will be operating in. I doubt any of us will have the TT in a place that goes below freezing or above 100 degrees(f). In any shop I have ever worked in, the temperature at which all materials are measured is 68 degrees(f), that is the golden rule, which is pretty much right in the middle of my EXTREME temperature range. I have made very close tolerance delrin, aluminum and steel parts in very hot and cold environments, and only once have I seen dimensions vary dramatically and that was with Delrin. The parts drifted about 0.0005(that's 1/2 of one thousand of an inch folks)which in our TT project does'nt amount to much. If we were operating the TT in an environment in temperatures <freezing and > 100 degrees(f), I would really be concerned.
If you press the balls in, you will have to go beyond the centerline of the ball to achieve a press fit so I would simply machine 90 grooves in each cup, making sure each cup is within 0.001 of each other and go deep enough so that the ball is retained a sufficient amount, no press fit, the balls will locate and maintain good contact with both cups.
I guess I don't understand the 6 degree philosophy, don't you think the high mass platters with the inserts/balls would be sufficient?
Final plans
Looks like livemusic and I are going to have differant platters do to the bearings we are using. I see now that fdegroove pointed out that my bearing is one peice thats coupled to the record clamp. So the option of having a split platter is moot. I've seen alot of turntables around thats even less sofisticated than the Teres project. I'm realizing that if one were to go to the extremes we could have a $25,000 turntable. Hence Walker Audio. But for the average joe I think the table I will end up with will be by far superior than anything most people have.
So I'm back to the drawing board. I'm going to call Professional Plastics tomarrow and ask if i can special order a 2" thick black PVC. Since 1" thick is only $20 I'm willing to pay 5x that price. My machinist has 1" thick aluminum just laying around the shop he can work with.
Would the table sound better if the beaded string that comes with the Teres battery operated motor ran along the 1" thick aluminum bottom layer or the 2" thick top PVC layer.
Since the total weight of the 1" aluminum and 2" PVC will be 29 LBS. Should I still damp the aluminum with leadshot? Simple machine cavities into the top of the aluminum layer and effectively capping it with the top PVC layer.
I guess there is no other option but to screw and bolt the two layers together. My machinist says that drilling from under the platter we can bolt from there. That way there is no visiable holes or impedance mismatchs. He stated that the PVC is quite tough and can be threaded to hold the bolts without a problem. If I were to use many bolts with low torque I don't see how this can be a problem. Would I buy a gauged accurate torque wrench to do this with? What psi should I torque these bolts with? Just like bolting on the wheels of a car I would torque the bolts in a cross pattern. So it will be evenly torqued.
Before I finnally decide this to be my master plan. Using the Teres bearings and Motor. Is there a better design than what I've come up with for a successfull platter?
Looks like livemusic and I are going to have differant platters do to the bearings we are using. I see now that fdegroove pointed out that my bearing is one peice thats coupled to the record clamp. So the option of having a split platter is moot. I've seen alot of turntables around thats even less sofisticated than the Teres project. I'm realizing that if one were to go to the extremes we could have a $25,000 turntable. Hence Walker Audio. But for the average joe I think the table I will end up with will be by far superior than anything most people have.
So I'm back to the drawing board. I'm going to call Professional Plastics tomarrow and ask if i can special order a 2" thick black PVC. Since 1" thick is only $20 I'm willing to pay 5x that price. My machinist has 1" thick aluminum just laying around the shop he can work with.
Would the table sound better if the beaded string that comes with the Teres battery operated motor ran along the 1" thick aluminum bottom layer or the 2" thick top PVC layer.
Since the total weight of the 1" aluminum and 2" PVC will be 29 LBS. Should I still damp the aluminum with leadshot? Simple machine cavities into the top of the aluminum layer and effectively capping it with the top PVC layer.
I guess there is no other option but to screw and bolt the two layers together. My machinist says that drilling from under the platter we can bolt from there. That way there is no visiable holes or impedance mismatchs. He stated that the PVC is quite tough and can be threaded to hold the bolts without a problem. If I were to use many bolts with low torque I don't see how this can be a problem. Would I buy a gauged accurate torque wrench to do this with? What psi should I torque these bolts with? Just like bolting on the wheels of a car I would torque the bolts in a cross pattern. So it will be evenly torqued.
Before I finnally decide this to be my master plan. Using the Teres bearings and Motor. Is there a better design than what I've come up with for a successfull platter?
DIY is fun
Stylin,
There are no universal patents in audio, obviously. Thinghs are too complex to be predicted exactly by plain physics. Everyone shoud go it’s own way on try and error road. One thing I disagree with you: splitted platter desing must not be more expensive. I’ve finally managed to have my aluminium subplatter made at 200 $ by machine shop. It will be loaded by lead/oil and sealed with two 10 mm acrylic layers at low additionat cost. IMHO, one cannot go wrong with heavy and damped subplatter. Splitted platter has one important advantage for me: it gives you opportunity to change the upper platters like mats, and try different materials till you get tired of experiments. I’m planning to try acrylic, PVC, both with and without CDL, and hardwood/plywood.
Have fun!
Stylin,
There are no universal patents in audio, obviously. Thinghs are too complex to be predicted exactly by plain physics. Everyone shoud go it’s own way on try and error road. One thing I disagree with you: splitted platter desing must not be more expensive. I’ve finally managed to have my aluminium subplatter made at 200 $ by machine shop. It will be loaded by lead/oil and sealed with two 10 mm acrylic layers at low additionat cost. IMHO, one cannot go wrong with heavy and damped subplatter. Splitted platter has one important advantage for me: it gives you opportunity to change the upper platters like mats, and try different materials till you get tired of experiments. I’m planning to try acrylic, PVC, both with and without CDL, and hardwood/plywood.
Have fun!
Teres bearing
Yeah but, I'm going to be using a Teres bearing. Your going to make your own right? fdegroove pointed out that this bearing is one peice connected to the record threaded spindle. I think what you wanted to do was have a bearing burried in the bottom sandwiched aluminum layer and the spindle will be lodged in the upper PVC/Acrylic layer. The Teres bearing can't do that. I wish it could but its not designed that way. I believe.
My machinist friend will supply the 1" thick aluminum and machine it for free. I just have to buy the PVC layer. I still need to find out which bolts to use. Prestressed non-magnetic. KNow which bolts would be the best brand or make?
Also. Could I get a copy of that platter design that you posted on here a few pages ago? I need to email that to my machinist so he can start calculating the bolt pattern.
Is spin balancing still a consideration? Someone on Teres forum said thats a factor. They suggested i forget this and simply buy redPoints for $1100.
Found a young woodworker with his own shop. He agreed to laminate a plynth for me out of Cocobolo for $200 which includes the wood! Leadshot filled, planned and sanded down to shape. I'm going to do the finish myself. either Linseed oil or Shallac.
Im happy about this
Yeah but, I'm going to be using a Teres bearing. Your going to make your own right? fdegroove pointed out that this bearing is one peice connected to the record threaded spindle. I think what you wanted to do was have a bearing burried in the bottom sandwiched aluminum layer and the spindle will be lodged in the upper PVC/Acrylic layer. The Teres bearing can't do that. I wish it could but its not designed that way. I believe.
My machinist friend will supply the 1" thick aluminum and machine it for free. I just have to buy the PVC layer. I still need to find out which bolts to use. Prestressed non-magnetic. KNow which bolts would be the best brand or make?
Also. Could I get a copy of that platter design that you posted on here a few pages ago? I need to email that to my machinist so he can start calculating the bolt pattern.
Is spin balancing still a consideration? Someone on Teres forum said thats a factor. They suggested i forget this and simply buy redPoints for $1100.
Found a young woodworker with his own shop. He agreed to laminate a plynth for me out of Cocobolo for $200 which includes the wood! Leadshot filled, planned and sanded down to shape. I'm going to do the finish myself. either Linseed oil or Shallac.
Im happy about this
RE:TERES BEARIMG.
Hi Stylin,
Mea culpa....something I overlooked entirely:
You can still go for the platter configutation of your choice since the splindle screws into the bearing housing...at least I think it does.
So,you can actually screw it onto the top of you platter as well.
Cheers,
Hi Stylin,
Mea culpa....something I overlooked entirely:
You can still go for the platter configutation of your choice since the splindle screws into the bearing housing...at least I think it does.
So,you can actually screw it onto the top of you platter as well.
Cheers,
Attachments
Overall height of Teres bearing?
Frank and Livemusic,
I had the same concern. So I assume that to use the Teres bearing one would just need to have a longer spindle machined that would go through the upper platter? Any issues about the clamping pressure dulling the cones or cutting into the mounting points of the upper platter - what if the cones were steel pressing into aluminum? Or hard but brittle ceramic being repeatedly subjected to clamping forces?
Mike
Frank and Livemusic,
I had the same concern. So I assume that to use the Teres bearing one would just need to have a longer spindle machined that would go through the upper platter? Any issues about the clamping pressure dulling the cones or cutting into the mounting points of the upper platter - what if the cones were steel pressing into aluminum? Or hard but brittle ceramic being repeatedly subjected to clamping forces?
Mike
SPINDLE.
Hi Mike,
In the picture you see the spindle and the Delrin washer as delivered with the package.
If you decide to use these parts all you need to do is make a tap in the center of the top platter and you're done.
The screw on clamp hardly execres any downforce on the platter,it uses side forece to flatten the record.
The material for the cones should be of sufficient hardness to carry the weight of the platter,I feel it best to round the tip a little so they won't pierce into bottom platter.
Cheers,
Hi Mike,
In the picture you see the spindle and the Delrin washer as delivered with the package.
If you decide to use these parts all you need to do is make a tap in the center of the top platter and you're done.
The screw on clamp hardly execres any downforce on the platter,it uses side forece to flatten the record.
The material for the cones should be of sufficient hardness to carry the weight of the platter,I feel it best to round the tip a little so they won't pierce into bottom platter.
Cheers,
Teres bearing
I don't know...wish we could get a few more colaborations on this platter project. We need more engineers to chip in to insure this is a direction one should go. Not that fdegroove, livemusic and vinyl-addict are not wrong. I'm quite impressed with all your idea's and expertise. I just wish one of the original Teres project members and another manufacturer experienced with turntable design could pitch in their opinions. I tried staging this question over at the teres forum but was told to keep this forum.
fdegroove. In that picture you supplied of the Teres bearing is the threaded record spindle that shaft in the bottom middle of the picture? It looks very small! Which would mean that bearing is huge. Also, that ball bearing at the end of the shaft looks like it gets shoved into the bearing housing on the left with the bearing pointing down. Or Do i have this backwards? If its down then the bearing is actually closer into the plynth level than I was lead to beleive. How much of that threaded spindle need to be sticking out the top of the platter to be used by the record clamp?
I assume that the Teres bearing is designed to be used with a 3" thick platter. Is that true? Also what is the diameter of a Teres platter anyway. I was planning on making my platter 13" in diameter. What size do you all recommend? Is there a specific size needed for the Teres motor?
Livemusic. Thats awsome that machineshop did for all for you for $200! Did that include those cone shafts damped into the leashot? What thickness did this entire sub platter come out to?
I don't know...wish we could get a few more colaborations on this platter project. We need more engineers to chip in to insure this is a direction one should go. Not that fdegroove, livemusic and vinyl-addict are not wrong. I'm quite impressed with all your idea's and expertise. I just wish one of the original Teres project members and another manufacturer experienced with turntable design could pitch in their opinions. I tried staging this question over at the teres forum but was told to keep this forum.
fdegroove. In that picture you supplied of the Teres bearing is the threaded record spindle that shaft in the bottom middle of the picture? It looks very small! Which would mean that bearing is huge. Also, that ball bearing at the end of the shaft looks like it gets shoved into the bearing housing on the left with the bearing pointing down. Or Do i have this backwards? If its down then the bearing is actually closer into the plynth level than I was lead to beleive. How much of that threaded spindle need to be sticking out the top of the platter to be used by the record clamp?
I assume that the Teres bearing is designed to be used with a 3" thick platter. Is that true? Also what is the diameter of a Teres platter anyway. I was planning on making my platter 13" in diameter. What size do you all recommend? Is there a specific size needed for the Teres motor?
Livemusic. Thats awsome that machineshop did for all for you for $200! Did that include those cone shafts damped into the leashot? What thickness did this entire sub platter come out to?
BEARING.
Hi,
I think you have figured out the bearing and spindle correctly.
A spindle can't relly be big,can it?
Anyway,pictures can be misleading but I feel the bearing is rather substantial,a good feature.
The platter from T. is machined from a slab of acrylic,3 inches thick so that should come close to 3 inches high,I guess.
No.
For those looking for more info :
TERES AUDIO
Cheers,
Hi,
I think you have figured out the bearing and spindle correctly.
A spindle can't relly be big,can it?
Anyway,pictures can be misleading but I feel the bearing is rather substantial,a good feature.
The platter from T. is machined from a slab of acrylic,3 inches thick so that should come close to 3 inches high,I guess.
Standard record diameter is 12 inch but I would make it a bit smaller so the record can really be flattened with the run in grooves overhanging the platter.
No.
For those looking for more info :
TERES AUDIO
Cheers,
Stylin, all,
The Teres bearing certaily can be used for both splitted and one piece platter desing. Record pin may be threaded in the upper plate alone. Bearing axle has a boss rising approximately 19 mm above the shoulders (dunno exhactly, I’ll ask the Teres forum folks). I intend to fix the platter with additional flange, keeping CofG as low as possible, and also allowing platter concenticity fine tuning, shifting the platter within the larger-than-bolt holes, when the bolts are loosened (do the static balancing AFTER that).
Find attached TT plan last issue. Just note, it's dimentianal CAD drawing, everything in scale, including bearing. Some additional features added recently: support studs are grounded to subplatter and then through the bearing grounding post to the ground bus with a strip of copper foil and screw. I think it will not do any harm, and may be I’ll try carbon composite platter later on. Second, CLD platter with uncompromised vertical stifness: 1” acrylic,1.5 mm sorbothane, 10 mm aluminium, stuck up together with SS bolts and helycoil inserts. Seems to me most promising at the moment.
Subplatter is machined from 1.5" aluminium block, 200 paid for it alone. If you still need my subplatter drawing, drop me a mail, and I can attach it.
As for engineer's expertise: I'm in aircraft engineering field more than 25 years; it's a different zone, but anyway...
Mike,
Stainless steel bolts are non-magnetic; “pre-stressed” means tightend with certain torque, to create pre-tension in order to prevent separation under load force. Don’t think we need much torque here.
Cheers,
Michael
The Teres bearing certaily can be used for both splitted and one piece platter desing. Record pin may be threaded in the upper plate alone. Bearing axle has a boss rising approximately 19 mm above the shoulders (dunno exhactly, I’ll ask the Teres forum folks). I intend to fix the platter with additional flange, keeping CofG as low as possible, and also allowing platter concenticity fine tuning, shifting the platter within the larger-than-bolt holes, when the bolts are loosened (do the static balancing AFTER that).
Find attached TT plan last issue. Just note, it's dimentianal CAD drawing, everything in scale, including bearing. Some additional features added recently: support studs are grounded to subplatter and then through the bearing grounding post to the ground bus with a strip of copper foil and screw. I think it will not do any harm, and may be I’ll try carbon composite platter later on. Second, CLD platter with uncompromised vertical stifness: 1” acrylic,1.5 mm sorbothane, 10 mm aluminium, stuck up together with SS bolts and helycoil inserts. Seems to me most promising at the moment.
Subplatter is machined from 1.5" aluminium block, 200 paid for it alone. If you still need my subplatter drawing, drop me a mail, and I can attach it.
As for engineer's expertise: I'm in aircraft engineering field more than 25 years; it's a different zone, but anyway...
Mike,
Stainless steel bolts are non-magnetic; “pre-stressed” means tightend with certain torque, to create pre-tension in order to prevent separation under load force. Don’t think we need much torque here.
Cheers,
Michael
Attachments
Cool drawing but something else to think about
Chris Brady sent this to Teres forum today:
"In case some of you have not heard, we are developing a hardwood platter that sonically is a quantum leap better than the our acrylic platters.
http://www.teresaudio.com/good_wood.jpg
We are having a small number of platters made that should be available some time in March. The platters will be made from a matrix of small pieces of wood, laminated with lots of epoxy. The core of the platter will be made from Jatoba
(very hard, stable and a bit less expensive) surrounded by solid Cocobolo or Rosewood. The construction is pretty complicated so these will expensive. Each platter will be paired with a matching hardwood base. Sounds best with no
mat. The future of the wood platter beyond the first batch of 4 to 6 is uncertain. Because of the phenomenal sound I think that it will be quite successful. However, it could end up being too expensive. People may be too skeptical to invest in such radical design. We will have to wait and see."
I looked at local prices for Jatoba and Cocobolo and Jatoba is down right cheap @ ~$5 a sq ft in 1" thickness and Cocobolo isn't too bad either at about $30 a board ft in 2" thicknesses. Makes you think.
Mike
Chris
Chris Brady sent this to Teres forum today:
"In case some of you have not heard, we are developing a hardwood platter that sonically is a quantum leap better than the our acrylic platters.
http://www.teresaudio.com/good_wood.jpg
We are having a small number of platters made that should be available some time in March. The platters will be made from a matrix of small pieces of wood, laminated with lots of epoxy. The core of the platter will be made from Jatoba
(very hard, stable and a bit less expensive) surrounded by solid Cocobolo or Rosewood. The construction is pretty complicated so these will expensive. Each platter will be paired with a matching hardwood base. Sounds best with no
mat. The future of the wood platter beyond the first batch of 4 to 6 is uncertain. Because of the phenomenal sound I think that it will be quite successful. However, it could end up being too expensive. People may be too skeptical to invest in such radical design. We will have to wait and see."
I looked at local prices for Jatoba and Cocobolo and Jatoba is down right cheap @ ~$5 a sq ft in 1" thickness and Cocobolo isn't too bad either at about $30 a board ft in 2" thicknesses. Makes you think.
Mike
Chris
Torque wrench
You can pick up an inch/lb torque wrench at Sears for about $50 I think. The Craftsman brand is good, I have a foot/pound wrench but that is too heavy duty for your needs. Tighten 1 screw without the torque wrench until just snug, then use the Torque wrench on it and turn it down to its lowest setting and apply it to the 1st screw, adjust it higher until you hear it click. Torque all screw to that setting. I would use coarse(10-24)bolts if you are screwing into PVC. You don't need to tighten the bolts super tight, you will strip the PVC if you go overboard, start a little past snug and see if you're happy with the result.
Also, make sure you use washers under these bolts, the aluminum subplatter could gouge, IOW, make sure you counterbore the subplatter deep enogh so the bolts will be just about flush with the bottom of the subplatter, for aesthetic purposes. Good luck!
You can pick up an inch/lb torque wrench at Sears for about $50 I think. The Craftsman brand is good, I have a foot/pound wrench but that is too heavy duty for your needs. Tighten 1 screw without the torque wrench until just snug, then use the Torque wrench on it and turn it down to its lowest setting and apply it to the 1st screw, adjust it higher until you hear it click. Torque all screw to that setting. I would use coarse(10-24)bolts if you are screwing into PVC. You don't need to tighten the bolts super tight, you will strip the PVC if you go overboard, start a little past snug and see if you're happy with the result.
Also, make sure you use washers under these bolts, the aluminum subplatter could gouge, IOW, make sure you counterbore the subplatter deep enogh so the bolts will be just about flush with the bottom of the subplatter, for aesthetic purposes. Good luck!
Cryogenics?
A new topic that can be applied to everything. Platter, plynth, cables, etc.
I met with a retailer today that repesents a Cryo lab. Fortunately Cryogenics is here in my home city. He gave me their card to call them directly saving me some money.
This retialer AudioNut.com here in Phoenix states that everything will benefit from this 72 hour treatment. This company does NOT sink items into liquid nitrogen like JenaLabs.com does.
I'm thinking that after I build my turntable to have the platter (minus bearing) and cables Cryo treated. Anyone have any idea how this will effect the impedance of PVC and Acrylic as a platter?
I'd like to know before I call these people tomarrow.
http://www.cryogenicsinternational.com/audio.htm
A new topic that can be applied to everything. Platter, plynth, cables, etc.
I met with a retailer today that repesents a Cryo lab. Fortunately Cryogenics is here in my home city. He gave me their card to call them directly saving me some money.
This retialer AudioNut.com here in Phoenix states that everything will benefit from this 72 hour treatment. This company does NOT sink items into liquid nitrogen like JenaLabs.com does.
I'm thinking that after I build my turntable to have the platter (minus bearing) and cables Cryo treated. Anyone have any idea how this will effect the impedance of PVC and Acrylic as a platter?
I'd like to know before I call these people tomarrow.
http://www.cryogenicsinternational.com/audio.htm
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