New Speaker Construction

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#21
Re: Cool enclosure

jewilson said:
Paul,

Is there any company using an enclosure like this? I was thinking that a better way to build this cabinet is on a CNC router. I know you do not have one, however many woodworking shop do. So if you can produce a AutoCAD of the cabinet slices this could be done in a hour. They would more than likely charge you about 75.00 to 100.00 and hour for labor, so if you have the drawing you would be in great shape.

The CNC router would cut the perfect. The next issue would be the alignment when gluing up the slices. Of course, you still have the speaker cut out. In addition, I do not think you have any choice but to use MDF or and Hardwood because of end grain. If you use MDF, you would have to seal the end of the fibers.


🙂
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I'm right now in the process of building one reflex 15 lts box with a similar slicing method, but with horizontal scheme. I built a template and then spent hours with my router as a saw. The slices are not perfect but good enough to use some wood filling and sanding and reach a smooth finish. After that a veneer will come.
Yes, it takes a loooooooot of time.
CNC?? this is for lazy people :clown:
 
#22
I built/ am building a pair of cabinets from 27 layers of 1/2 inch finnish birch. I went ahead and made a jig to router out each individual piece... it was brutal! These cabinets are taking forever to complete so I'm going to offer some advice. Unless you have a lot of time on your hands take your wood to someone who has a CNC router and be done with the most time consuming part Have them drill holes for dowels while they're at it. Aligning all the pieces without some form of registration is really difficult and the dowels will solve that problem.

Here are some pictures of the cabinets as they were a few weeks ago.

http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
 
#23
Drum or big Belt Sander

knassiri

You should call one of your local woodworking shops and see if the and a large belt or drum sanding machine. They could sand you box smooth in about less than 30 minutes. I would start with a 120 grit and move to a 150 and end on at least a 180 or 220 grit. They would be nice and smooth then.🙂
 
#25
I admire the hard work done by those making these style of cabinets, just curious as to why no one really takes into consideration either
1. how to reduce internal standing waves (without resorting to stuffing)
2. the effect of the rear wall of the enclosure

I know Sonus Faber with the Amatis uses multiple shelf braces (effectivley dividing the whole box into lots of smaller sub chambers) which deals with point 1.
& tapers the rear of the enclosure which deals with point 2.
Just curious.
 
#26
Re: Drum or big Belt Sander

jewilson said:
knassiri

You should call one of your local woodworking shops and see if the and a large belt or drum sanding machine. They could sand you box smooth in about less than 30 minutes. I would start with a 120 grit and move to a 150 and end on at least a 180 or 220 grit. They would be nice and smooth then.🙂
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Jewilson, Thanks for the suggestion. It didn't even occur to me that large sanders existed. I did find someone locally who has a 45" belt sander for future needs. Not really relevant now though as both cabinets are sanded and ready for the driver holes to be made:dead:. just got my Jasper Jig, so I'll be making some sawdust on Wednesday. To insure all the edges of the cabinet were absolutely straight I built something similar to the pic below (15" long). It seems like a lot of work, but the edges were pretty straight to begin with so it didn't take very long.

This was my first attempt at speakerbuilding and serious woodworking for that matter. Great learning experience but I'm looking forward to a more traditional cabinet design for my next project.🙂
 

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#27
Ap said:
I admire the hard work done by those making these style of cabinets, just curious as to why no one really takes into consideration either
1. how to reduce internal standing waves (without resorting to stuffing)
2. the effect of the rear wall of the enclosure
Click to expand...

Actually there are many who do considerable work on this!
Check out B&W - the Nautlius 802 or Norh speakers - both use terminated line enclosures.

There are also a vast number of speakers that use non-rectangular enclosures to reduce standing waves.

I believe TL speakers deal with standing waves very well as they are suited to a lot more stuffing directly behind the drivers.
 
#31
Re: Hrm

MtBiker said:
Other than looking beautiful, wouldn't you be better off putting in a single angled brace that ties the center of the rear wall, both sidewalls, and the baffle between the drivers together? The single window brace would replace all three in your picture and tie more real estate together.
Click to expand...


I know you are not talking about mine, but that's exactly what I did, actually I used four different layers with bracing based on the very same layer. In the picture it can't be seen, but there are curves sides, and curved top.
 
#33
The drivers are the peerless 811815 as tweeter, and the beyma 6b30/P. I have tried with a 1st order and sound good, but the final xover has to be defined (active)
Finish is varnish (poriuretano) and I promise I'll even more send pictures when finished.
 

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#38
Ap said:
Looks cool,
dont forget about edge diffraction.
Click to expand...


What about mounting midrange and tweeter in a pure and massive rock whool cube, covered by black fabric, at, let's say 30cm x 30cm x 30cm, and support the frequency loss in the bass by help of a sub woofer (Closed assymetrical cabinet, of course).

No edge diffraction, no reflections, optimal damping, no resonance - i.e perfect sound reproduction.

Looks good? No, I don't think so😀

Br.
 
#39
Very Very Cool

Raka,

That is a very cool shape you've come up with.. Obviously, you have done your homework on internal standing waves and cabinet reflection. So, what kind of veneer did you use, it looks similar to like maple.

I though you had used multiple laminations on the sidewalls to get this shape. However I see that you have built the cabinet in wood layers, you must have given you router a real work out. So are these layer Hardwood, Plywood or MDF.

The finish is on I have not heard of, I guess the do not sell in the US. One of my favorite finishes is at http://www.waterlox.com/productsList.cfm it's a Tung oil and varnish, it very nice.

Sure, a Bessel 1 first order can work great. The Bessel has lower phase shift and a smoother response. Of course, the Bessel performance depends on the cross over points. I have been using the Crescendo Cap for some time check them out, Nelson also uses them, they very good. http://www.northcreekmusic.com/CrescendoSpeakerCaps.html

Great Job
Sincerely
Jim
🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂
 
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