New project.

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As I said in another thread, a measurement device is a must, but before you should use some simulation software. If not you are basically shooting in the dark. I can suggest you to read: FRD Consortium tools guide
As for the mic, most (all?) electret mics need phantom power, and gain, and in short you need a suitable preamp. I built the Neal-Wallin preamp (Microphone Preamplifier Project), connected to a cheap external sound card.
You also need a device for measuring the impedance (and TS parameters). I built this really simple and effective jig: AudioBlog: A simple loudspeaker measurement jig for ARTA
Ralf
 
As I said in another thread, a measurement device is a must, but before you should use some simulation software. If not you are basically shooting in the dark. I can suggest you to read: FRD Consortium tools guide
As for the mic, most (all?) electret mics need phantom power, and gain, and in short you need a suitable preamp. I built the Neal-Wallin preamp (Microphone Preamplifier Project), connected to a cheap external sound card.
You also need a device for measuring the impedance (and TS parameters). I built this really simple and effective jig: AudioBlog: A simple loudspeaker measurement jig for ARTA
Ralf

I've got an EMM-6 with a blue icicle usb adapter that supplies phantom power. It's cheap and seems to work really well.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EW5YQS...e=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B001EW5YQS

http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-...cal-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1329311117&sr=1-1

For less than 100 bucks you can have a mic setup that requires nothing but a pc with a usb port.
 
Thanks sreten, the amiga drivers look interesting.
A little too low sensitivity for the woofer, maybe.

Hi,

True, it is low sensitivity but the consequence is excellent bass extension.

TBH I'd much prefer living with the deeper bass than fretting about party
levels. In the end maximum levels depend on bass unit excursion, not
the sensitivity as long as you have enough watts, and the amount of
watts a 6.5" can take goes down the further you extend the bass.
96db to 98db in the bass needs a 30W to 50W amplifier.

If you want party levels build a standmounted sealed box and crossover
to a subwoofer, or build some speakers that can party with the best like :
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/tarkus

YMMV but the RS180 is a great driver for its price, clean bass being one
of its strong points. IMO you can't do better for the price than the driver
pair in the Amiga in Europe. Or the design probably for the price.

But it not you that needs pleasing, its your friend.

IMO opinion he (presumably) would be happy for the price of either
designs I posted, and TBH you would be a lot better off not being
responsible for the design, if you haven't done a design before.

The cheaper speakers may be all he needs, the Amiga is serious hifi,
and needs a good CD player (~ £30 used) and amplifier (~ £70 used).
A Marantz SE is good for the CD and a Pioneer A-300X for the amp.

If its not that serious build the cheaper speaker, they look great value.

rgds, sreten.
 
Thanks sreten, the amiga drivers look interesting. A little too low sensitivity for the woofer, maybe.

Hi Starre,

Actually this level of sensitivity is quite good knowing RS 180 is
8 ohms. Comercial boxes like Amiga would be in most cases
4 ohms, hence more SPL.

Amiga project looks very interesting and promising. I wonder why
there is a 2-4 kHz gap. Perhaps this will be taken into account in the
next x-over version.
 
I am sure it is a good driver sreten, I am just not ready to decide yet I have noticed, thanks for your input.
Hi Lojzek, yes it seem to be a good choice for decent money. At the moment I find myself looking at more and more expensive woofers, but we will see what I decide.
I have actually decided one thing, I will do a vented design to keep the speakers small but with some deep bass.
 
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Testbox almost ready.

Here is a picture of the testbox I will use to hopefully find a good way to realize this speaker. I will next mount screws on the baffle to hold it with a rubber seal.
 

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Front fixed with screws and box stuffed. It plays rather ok even without the tweeter and rather sensitive (90dB) but bass is out of proportions (too much mid range) as it should be without a crossover. I think it looks nice 🙂.
 

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