Must be the lead free solder used.... and the 4 layer PCB acting as a nice heatsink? Even the old "paperclip" trick didn't work all that well to clean out the vias.
They're cleaned up now anyway, just have a little filing to do on one of em.
My secret weapon:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611781217
(Sorry Lars)
They're cleaned up now anyway, just have a little filing to do on one of em.
My secret weapon:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1611781217
(Sorry Lars)
IVX said:
Thing is the solder doesn't seem to flow at all. What I did remove actually came out as a plug in the shape of the via! Probably some solder braid would have helped but it's ready to go now.
I'm just going to replace them with regular tantalums.
You didn't drill them out did you? Remember it's a 4 layer board, and the connections to these pads arein the middle layers. 
Or should i say: was ? 😀
Or should i say: was ? 😀
Lars Clausen said:You didn't drill them out did you? Remember it's a 4 layer board, and the connections to these pads arein the middle layers.
Noo no, solder vac. One could use a little filing but ... I guess I'll try the solder vac again. Hate to think I'm applying too much heat to it though.
Actually I'll do the hot wire trick again, with a hotter tip.
Hot wire trick worked great. I also cleaned out the input signal holes btw.... had some solide core stuck in em.
Chris, you obviously too careful, i've stable success with replacing elcaps from the PC motherboard (8 layer or more, heating one pin -pulling up, heating other pin -pulling up etc). Hmm, however PC motherboard isn't Pbfree, well, maybe try to cut this cap else? Anyway this is no problem at all, just do it. 🙂
Sorry about this Chris, i have used the 128 SALRPM for years, and they seem to be reliable enough. But now no longer 😕 . The only difference is, now they are Lead Free, other than that exactly the same.
Anyway i'm never going to use this type again
And another thing, it's a big day today! This is now officially the most read thread about any product i have ever participated in. A few weeks ago it only was true of any 'amplifier'. But now it has taken over even any other stuff i made over the years. And the 'competitor' has been under way for almost 3 years. This thread got here in turbo speed, less than 3 months. Thanks for the great interest everyone 🙂
Anyway i'm never going to use this type again
And another thing, it's a big day today! This is now officially the most read thread about any product i have ever participated in. A few weeks ago it only was true of any 'amplifier'. But now it has taken over even any other stuff i made over the years. And the 'competitor' has been under way for almost 3 years. This thread got here in turbo speed, less than 3 months. Thanks for the great interest everyone 🙂
No worries Ivan, they're out now. I did try to heat+pull/wiggle a little. There's a strange crimp in the leads though and they snap off right away. It left enough of a lead that I could use clamps on them to yank them out with some heat. Cleaning the solder from the vias proved to be the most difficult. I blame my equipment and lack of experience with lead free.
Lars, no problem (I'll pay you back for this I swear).
All you needed was a controversial bugger like me to start the thread 🙂
Maybe you'll get to celebrate with a first review today as well... stay tunned.
Lars, no problem (I'll pay you back for this I swear).
All you needed was a controversial bugger like me to start the thread 🙂
Maybe you'll get to celebrate with a first review today as well... stay tunned.
Lars Clausen said:Sorry about this Chris, i have used the 128 SALRPM for years, and they seem to be reliable enough. But now no longer 😕 . The only difference is, now they are Lead Free, other than that exactly the same.
Anyway i'm never going to use this type again
And another thing, it's a big day today! This is now officially the most read thread about any product i have ever participated in. A few weeks ago it only was true of any 'amplifier'. But now it has taken over even any other stuff i made over the years. And the 'competitor' has been under way for almost 3 years. This thread got here in turbo speed, less than 3 months. Thanks for the great interest everyone 🙂
I've used the BC128 solid aluminum caps a few times and found them to be quite good, never had one fail yet, maybe it is something to do with them being changed to lead free.
I thought they sounded much better than tants for DC coupling
Lars Clausen said:
Even more amazing is that no-one has heard the product perform yet and nothing of much substance has happened yet (in the thread0. Talk about suspense killing!
🙂
Flying Red: Right, we all want to see some solid listening tests, the fact that we didnt see it until now, i think has to do with the fact the the thread developed over a relatively short period, and the product turnaround time, is simply slower than the 2½ months this thread has been going on.
But very soon you will see many people sharing their NewClassD projects here, many units have been preordered, and will be delivered in the first batch we send out.
Until then i thank you all for your patience
But very soon you will see many people sharing their NewClassD projects here, many units have been preordered, and will be delivered in the first batch we send out.
Until then i thank you all for your patience
Lars, actually it's the same thread, which was here year ago "UcD vs zap-1..700"(or something like), no one listened zap700, but the thread was anyway. I think it will some sort of revenge match, with much more then 12s month waiting for challenge. Good luck!
They're up and running. Already played a handfull of songs on them of a different variety, just with some disposable speakers for now.. not my usual ones.. must gain some trust in them before I go back there. Also due to the single ended drive atm there's a little more hiss than I'd like, spoiled as I've become, and my usual speakers are far more efficient which would make that worse. Even with that I think I'll be swapping them over soon.
Gotta tell ya though, I've never heard 12ohm nominal 8ohm min. speakers of unknown efficiency (but I'm guessing not very) pound like they are. I'm surprised they held together.. was kind of hoping they wouldn't (they're not mine).
I'm guessing by my two radios, one about 13 feet away and another about 25' away from the amp, that it switches at about 525kHz??
So yeah there's some EMI, not sure how much of that noise is fed through the mains since there's no additional filtering on it.
It doesn't blank out the local FM station though and the TV seems fine... good enough, but there is better in that respect.
Lars, I really hope you've got a suitable replacement for those solide aluminum caps lined up, they're obviously superior to the tantalum's I replaced them with on the one module. Little more body, more natural, relaxed, forward presentation, not at all bright but it's all there in the right amount. The tantalums I threw in are a bit more muffled, sunken in, less musical, though I should at least swap speakers to know for sure... will get to that later.
Oddly there's also about a diodes drop less voltage on the the rail that was shorted compared to opposite rail and those of the other module. This may also explain the difference I'm hearing. I don't know what's responsible for this small voltage drop.
I could write a full report on it immediatly.. but then who'd believe me. I'll listen and play with it a little longer, though I will say I can easily listen to this for more than an hour, it's not at all bad.
Lars, please send me the caps required to swap the feedback method and if you so please, whatever you decide to replace those BC128's with 🙂
Cheers,
Chris
PS: I do plan on changing the rail/ground wires so they're all the same gauge 🙄
Gotta tell ya though, I've never heard 12ohm nominal 8ohm min. speakers of unknown efficiency (but I'm guessing not very) pound like they are. I'm surprised they held together.. was kind of hoping they wouldn't (they're not mine).
I'm guessing by my two radios, one about 13 feet away and another about 25' away from the amp, that it switches at about 525kHz??
So yeah there's some EMI, not sure how much of that noise is fed through the mains since there's no additional filtering on it.
It doesn't blank out the local FM station though and the TV seems fine... good enough, but there is better in that respect.
Lars, I really hope you've got a suitable replacement for those solide aluminum caps lined up, they're obviously superior to the tantalum's I replaced them with on the one module. Little more body, more natural, relaxed, forward presentation, not at all bright but it's all there in the right amount. The tantalums I threw in are a bit more muffled, sunken in, less musical, though I should at least swap speakers to know for sure... will get to that later.
Oddly there's also about a diodes drop less voltage on the the rail that was shorted compared to opposite rail and those of the other module. This may also explain the difference I'm hearing. I don't know what's responsible for this small voltage drop.
I could write a full report on it immediatly.. but then who'd believe me. I'll listen and play with it a little longer, though I will say I can easily listen to this for more than an hour, it's not at all bad.
Lars, please send me the caps required to swap the feedback method and if you so please, whatever you decide to replace those BC128's with 🙂
Cheers,
Chris
PS: I do plan on changing the rail/ground wires so they're all the same gauge 🙄
Nice one Chris🙂
I agree regarding those caps, in my opinion you'll struggle to find any electrolytic or tant to be as good as the BC128's used in coupling.
I'll probably get stones thrown at me but I like them better than BG's😀
I agree regarding those caps, in my opinion you'll struggle to find any electrolytic or tant to be as good as the BC128's used in coupling.
I'll probably get stones thrown at me but I like them better than BG's😀
Again I may still be speaking too soon but.. they sound pretty damned ideal (the caps that is).
Going from one speaker to the next, those solide aluminum ones just have an extra aspect to them, go a little further and do it just right.... really makes ya smile.
Maybe more of a margin on their voltage rating would suffice?? We'll see what Lars comes up with. Oh and yeah, if the world has to suffer lead poisoning for good audio I'm all for it. 😀
Yeap, just swapped speakers, definitely top notch bypass caps.
Going from one speaker to the next, those solide aluminum ones just have an extra aspect to them, go a little further and do it just right.... really makes ya smile.
Maybe more of a margin on their voltage rating would suffice?? We'll see what Lars comes up with. Oh and yeah, if the world has to suffer lead poisoning for good audio I'm all for it. 😀
Yeap, just swapped speakers, definitely top notch bypass caps.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.