My hope is that the moderator will allow this to be a permanent running thread.
This thread is for those of us that are primarily interested in using new LCD Monitors as the starting point for our projects. My aim is forming a catalog of the features and usability of *New* LCD Monitors. I would like to encourage others to also research since checking suitability for the project most often only involves removing the back of the monitor and looking at the boards. I would also appreciate anyone who would be kind enough to repost any data you currently have.
I have done two so far, and for clarity I will detail them in separate posts.
Regards,
BT
This thread is for those of us that are primarily interested in using new LCD Monitors as the starting point for our projects. My aim is forming a catalog of the features and usability of *New* LCD Monitors. I would like to encourage others to also research since checking suitability for the project most often only involves removing the back of the monitor and looking at the boards. I would also appreciate anyone who would be kind enough to repost any data you currently have.
I have done two so far, and for clarity I will detail them in separate posts.
Regards,
BT
Samsung SyncMaster 150MP
Samsung SyncMaster 150MP
Price: 399 USD after rebate (Best Buy)
Response time: <25MS
Contrast Ratio: 450:1
Description:
This monitor is using a Samsung laptop LCD form factor. There is only one board with a single connector to the controller. The unit is a 3 in 1 monitor, which accepts analog RGB, NTSC, S-video, TV tuner. Unit comes with a remote control and has picture in picture feature. The 151MP is advertised as having an HDTV input, but I haven't looked at it yet.
Comments:
As mentioned above, you don't need a PC to dump video to this LCD. The Samsung LCD has an Identical design to one I pulled from a fried Compaq laptop. You don't have to lengthen flat flex cables for it to work. I saw no ghosting playing directly to the monitor from my DVD player. The unit is quite easy to disassemble.
The primary drawback is the price, LCD Monitors with similar specs are going for around 300USD, but do not include the picture in picture or have the other video inputs. I did see what looked like light leakage from the backlight around the bottom and top in the black space when playing a widescreen format DVD, but this was only visible then and very minor. This shouldn't matter since I will be removing the backlight.
For some reason my old Micron Laptop wouldn't drive the panel properly, it washed out all of the yellows. A standard desktop machine worked nicely.
For those of you willing to add to the research, I would like to see info on the Samsung 152N. Specifically I would like to know if the panel uses the same LCD form factor, making it a prime candidate for the project around the 300USD range. You might be able to tell in the store, since these use laptop power supplies and take 14v DC to the unit.
Samsung SyncMaster 150MP
Price: 399 USD after rebate (Best Buy)
Response time: <25MS
Contrast Ratio: 450:1
Description:
This monitor is using a Samsung laptop LCD form factor. There is only one board with a single connector to the controller. The unit is a 3 in 1 monitor, which accepts analog RGB, NTSC, S-video, TV tuner. Unit comes with a remote control and has picture in picture feature. The 151MP is advertised as having an HDTV input, but I haven't looked at it yet.
Comments:
As mentioned above, you don't need a PC to dump video to this LCD. The Samsung LCD has an Identical design to one I pulled from a fried Compaq laptop. You don't have to lengthen flat flex cables for it to work. I saw no ghosting playing directly to the monitor from my DVD player. The unit is quite easy to disassemble.
The primary drawback is the price, LCD Monitors with similar specs are going for around 300USD, but do not include the picture in picture or have the other video inputs. I did see what looked like light leakage from the backlight around the bottom and top in the black space when playing a widescreen format DVD, but this was only visible then and very minor. This shouldn't matter since I will be removing the backlight.
For some reason my old Micron Laptop wouldn't drive the panel properly, it washed out all of the yellows. A standard desktop machine worked nicely.
For those of you willing to add to the research, I would like to see info on the Samsung 152N. Specifically I would like to know if the panel uses the same LCD form factor, making it a prime candidate for the project around the 300USD range. You might be able to tell in the store, since these use laptop power supplies and take 14v DC to the unit.
NEC MultiSync 1555V
NEC 1555V
Price: 300 USD after rebate (Circuit City)
Response time: ~25MS
Contrast Ratio: 450:1
Description:
The NEC is fairly easy to take apart. The LCD has 2 boards, connected by a 20-pin flat flex cable with .5 mm pitch. The panel is made by HannStar, and there are pictures elsewhere under my name. I saw no ghosting when I tested the panel.
Comments:
I had a little trouble with the snap connectors around the outside of the case. If you plan on taking one apart, buy some plastic putty knives from a local home store before starting. Using these prevents damage to the case caused by a screwdriver. Also make sure you buy a set of Torx bits, you will need them.
I was looking into lengthening the cable when I discovered my personal preference, the Samsung 150MP. I have some new ideas on the subject, so I will post them to the cable length thread when I get them together.
NEC 1555V
Price: 300 USD after rebate (Circuit City)
Response time: ~25MS
Contrast Ratio: 450:1
Description:
The NEC is fairly easy to take apart. The LCD has 2 boards, connected by a 20-pin flat flex cable with .5 mm pitch. The panel is made by HannStar, and there are pictures elsewhere under my name. I saw no ghosting when I tested the panel.
Comments:
I had a little trouble with the snap connectors around the outside of the case. If you plan on taking one apart, buy some plastic putty knives from a local home store before starting. Using these prevents damage to the case caused by a screwdriver. Also make sure you buy a set of Torx bits, you will need them.
I was looking into lengthening the cable when I discovered my personal preference, the Samsung 150MP. I have some new ideas on the subject, so I will post them to the cable length thread when I get them together.
Hey Biqtinker,
Is the ribbon cable on the Samsung Sync master 150 mp long enough to get the controller board completly out of the way? If it is I might buy that monitor this weekend. I tried the KDS Rad-5c and it was very hard to take apart and also there was no way to get the controler out of the way without serious modifications.
Is the ribbon cable on the Samsung Sync master 150 mp long enough to get the controller board completly out of the way? If it is I might buy that monitor this weekend. I tried the KDS Rad-5c and it was very hard to take apart and also there was no way to get the controler out of the way without serious modifications.
NEC 1545V
XGA 300:1 Contrast ratio
Panel is a Philips LG LP150X05
RGB input only.
Screen width can be adjusted a little, but no vertical size adjustment.
Well known, but there are two boards that are not connected to each other, so it's a breeze. The thing is very sensitive to heat, and is only rated at 90o F.
XGA 300:1 Contrast ratio
Panel is a Philips LG LP150X05
RGB input only.
Screen width can be adjusted a little, but no vertical size adjustment.
Well known, but there are two boards that are not connected to each other, so it's a breeze. The thing is very sensitive to heat, and is only rated at 90o F.
Lifter
The NEC 1550V also has the LM150X05 (A3) panel.
I have not noticed the heat issue, but I have glass plate/double fresnel/glass plate between the 400W MH lamp and the lcd. Also, my lamp compartment is fan ventilated.
Ken
The NEC 1550V also has the LM150X05 (A3) panel.
I have not noticed the heat issue, but I have glass plate/double fresnel/glass plate between the 400W MH lamp and the lcd. Also, my lamp compartment is fan ventilated.
Ken
KleerSignal ,
The panel has only one board directly connected to the LCD. A single cable runs from the LCD to the controller and it is not a flat cable.
I have pictures, and will post them tonight or early tomorrow.
BT
The panel has only one board directly connected to the LCD. A single cable runs from the LCD to the controller and it is not a flat cable.
I have pictures, and will post them tonight or early tomorrow.
BT
All,
Attached is a picture of the Samsung that has been pulled almost all of the way down. The top picture shows the backlight side of the liberated LCD. The connector to the left attaches to a single board that is behind the aluminum shield across the top of the lower picture. I will probably only disassemble mine this far, the metal tape/shield that will provide additional protection to the fragile cable between the LCD and board. This will also allow me to reassemble the unit easily.
If anyone is interested in a closeup of the driver card or anything else please let me know and I will post it.
On a related subject, does anyone know what the three 'tabs' across the top of the bottom picture do? They don't connect to anything. There are similar tabs on the laptop LCD I have.
Regards,
BT
Attached is a picture of the Samsung that has been pulled almost all of the way down. The top picture shows the backlight side of the liberated LCD. The connector to the left attaches to a single board that is behind the aluminum shield across the top of the lower picture. I will probably only disassemble mine this far, the metal tape/shield that will provide additional protection to the fragile cable between the LCD and board. This will also allow me to reassemble the unit easily.
If anyone is interested in a closeup of the driver card or anything else please let me know and I will post it.
On a related subject, does anyone know what the three 'tabs' across the top of the bottom picture do? They don't connect to anything. There are similar tabs on the laptop LCD I have.
Regards,
BT
Attachments
Yes, it's interesting. Especially the way the LCD is connected to the driver board(s).bigtinker said:
Samsung 150MP Driver board
Afan,
Attached is the picture of the driver board. The driver board attaches to the LCD electronics through the single connector cable at the top. If you look at the bottom picture on the previous post you can see the edge connector next to the vertical pad on the right. You can also see a little of the pad through the metal shield the board is mounted to. It is not visible in the picture, but the other connections go to the buttons on the bottom and the IR reciever on the top.
If there is anything else, please let me know.
Regards,
BT
Afan,
Attached is the picture of the driver board. The driver board attaches to the LCD electronics through the single connector cable at the top. If you look at the bottom picture on the previous post you can see the edge connector next to the vertical pad on the right. You can also see a little of the pad through the metal shield the board is mounted to. It is not visible in the picture, but the other connections go to the buttons on the bottom and the IR reciever on the top.
If there is anything else, please let me know.
Regards,
BT
Attachments
I'm brand new
BigTinker I am very interested in this model. You don't need a computer to run it right? As far as take down, can the back light be taken fully off, I know you left it on to protect the cables.
BigTinker I am very interested in this model. You don't need a computer to run it right? As far as take down, can the back light be taken fully off, I know you left it on to protect the cables.
Re: I'm brand new
You are correct, you can plug in RCA, Svideo, and cable or an antenna. It also comes with an IR remote, which allows you to switch between the 4 inputs.
I stripped it completely for the second prototype. It is now an LCD and a single board mounted on an aluminum frame. I am in the process of building a box for the controller, switch assembly and supporting electronics.
Regards,
BT
Tangboy said:
You are correct, you can plug in RCA, Svideo, and cable or an antenna. It also comes with an IR remote, which allows you to switch between the 4 inputs.
I stripped it completely for the second prototype. It is now an LCD and a single board mounted on an aluminum frame. I am in the process of building a box for the controller, switch assembly and supporting electronics.
Regards,
BT
Stuff
BigTinker,
Is this that "big" model that looks to have the bod of a CRT monitor? I thought I seen it for sale. Just to be sure could you send me a link tot he exact model you bought? And when apart does it have any cards in the way of the display (the pics did not look like it did) but I jsut want to be sure before I buy it (I have never sodered before and would like an easy job🙂
Thanx muxh.
Jacoby
BigTinker,
Is this that "big" model that looks to have the bod of a CRT monitor? I thought I seen it for sale. Just to be sure could you send me a link tot he exact model you bought? And when apart does it have any cards in the way of the display (the pics did not look like it did) but I jsut want to be sure before I buy it (I have never sodered before and would like an easy job🙂
Thanx muxh.
Jacoby
Samsung 150MP
Big Tink Man,
I went ahead and bought a Samsung 150MP yesterday from Best Buy (was the last one they had) it's on sale right now (with an 80 mail-in rebate) I think after taxes and the rebate it costed me about 360-375 (I left the reciept in the car) USD. My friend is the one who is going to rip her apart. The picture of the unit (on the net) makes it look like the size of a CRT monitor, but this is not the case. It was just like an optical illusion, lol. I will let you know how easily we get it going (hopefully as easy a time as you had). BTW Both the "Samsung Syncmaster 152T" AND the "NEC 1555v" tuned out to have that blasted flax flex ribbon cable deal that so many are having issues with trying to extend or wahtever. I didn't even fool around with them. I am returning the NEC and my friend bought the Samsung from me (it is a bad **** monitor after all). Just thought you guys can add those two to the list of "flat flex ribbon issues".
Jacoby
Big Tink Man,
I went ahead and bought a Samsung 150MP yesterday from Best Buy (was the last one they had) it's on sale right now (with an 80 mail-in rebate) I think after taxes and the rebate it costed me about 360-375 (I left the reciept in the car) USD. My friend is the one who is going to rip her apart. The picture of the unit (on the net) makes it look like the size of a CRT monitor, but this is not the case. It was just like an optical illusion, lol. I will let you know how easily we get it going (hopefully as easy a time as you had). BTW Both the "Samsung Syncmaster 152T" AND the "NEC 1555v" tuned out to have that blasted flax flex ribbon cable deal that so many are having issues with trying to extend or wahtever. I didn't even fool around with them. I am returning the NEC and my friend bought the Samsung from me (it is a bad **** monitor after all). Just thought you guys can add those two to the list of "flat flex ribbon issues".
Jacoby
Re: Samsung 150MP
Thanks for the info, and sorry I didn't respond to your last post. It has been busy at work...
I am now in the process of mounting the electronics in a more permanent box. I will probably ven be able to use the switches and buttons. When I get it worked out I will post a picture. I am probably spending too much time on it, but I want it to look professional. I am also awaiting a better fresnel, and still trying to scrape up enough cash to get a good MH light.
Keep me posted on yours!
Later,
BT
Magamus said:
Thanks for the info, and sorry I didn't respond to your last post. It has been busy at work...
I am now in the process of mounting the electronics in a more permanent box. I will probably ven be able to use the switches and buttons. When I get it worked out I will post a picture. I am probably spending too much time on it, but I want it to look professional. I am also awaiting a better fresnel, and still trying to scrape up enough cash to get a good MH light.
Keep me posted on yours!
Later,
BT
Samsung 150MP
Cool deal. Will do. If yours looks to be awesome I might have to copy it😉 lol. It's not like there is going to be one in every house hold right? haha. Yah, I can't wait to get it going🙂 Will keep it posted.
Cool deal. Will do. If yours looks to be awesome I might have to copy it😉 lol. It's not like there is going to be one in every house hold right? haha. Yah, I can't wait to get it going🙂 Will keep it posted.
Samsung 150MP
BigTinker,
The Samsung 150MP came apart very nicely. Like you said there is only one card attached to the LCD display via a cord (but not the very thin ribbon cable everyone hates so much) that seems to be pretty strong. It is more than long enough to move the entire card out of the way. There is then one small card (about 1 inch wide and 6 iches long) that is connected to the bigger card (not the dispaly) that controls the menu settings and all that. It is like daisey chained to it (not in the way at all) which I really don't even need connected since the remote does all the same things anyway (from what I can tell) power and all. I did not get a chance to plug my PC into it (I will tonight) and check the quality of the image. However, I did get the chance to plug my DVD player into the S-Video port and also plug my cable wire into the coax (sp?) port. Both are about the same quality (which is not bad, but I am thinking the PC will turn out much better) plus I am on a 7x10 foot screen and had it filled up (so I did not have the best brightness) and I did not get to inclose the things to keep light from bleeding out. I am going to work on all of that over the weekend. I will take pics and show my final results. I will also take a pic of just the display and board out so all can get an idea (if anyone is worried about the placements of the boards here then please DO NOT worry. It was very easy) until then.
Jacoby
BigTinker,
The Samsung 150MP came apart very nicely. Like you said there is only one card attached to the LCD display via a cord (but not the very thin ribbon cable everyone hates so much) that seems to be pretty strong. It is more than long enough to move the entire card out of the way. There is then one small card (about 1 inch wide and 6 iches long) that is connected to the bigger card (not the dispaly) that controls the menu settings and all that. It is like daisey chained to it (not in the way at all) which I really don't even need connected since the remote does all the same things anyway (from what I can tell) power and all. I did not get a chance to plug my PC into it (I will tonight) and check the quality of the image. However, I did get the chance to plug my DVD player into the S-Video port and also plug my cable wire into the coax (sp?) port. Both are about the same quality (which is not bad, but I am thinking the PC will turn out much better) plus I am on a 7x10 foot screen and had it filled up (so I did not have the best brightness) and I did not get to inclose the things to keep light from bleeding out. I am going to work on all of that over the weekend. I will take pics and show my final results. I will also take a pic of just the display and board out so all can get an idea (if anyone is worried about the placements of the boards here then please DO NOT worry. It was very easy) until then.
Jacoby
AWESOME!
Yes, I am finally done with my setup (for now, later I will place it in a nice box).
I used the Samsung 150MP 15"LCD monitor and ripped her apart. Only one card is attached to the LCD display (and one smaller card attached to that one card, like daisey chained) and it is toally out of the way. No need for cable extension or anythign at all, just "move it out of the way". 🙂 Now this monitor lets you hook up anything that will use RGB (PC ofcourse) RCA (audio and video) S-video AND coax (sp? it's for cable). That all alone makes this a nice screen to use. Now I plugged my regular DVD player into it and it did not come out as nice as I would have liked. I then went out and bought a Sony DVD player for my PC and it made a big difference🙂 The brightness was still not what I was looking for UNTIL I found the settings on the DVD software that allowed me to change them there as well. MAN that made a huge difference🙂 I no longer will need to get a better light source. I am using a 360 watt ENX lamp that came standard with my 3M OHP (2200 lumens) and it is enough to watch even the darkest movies (Pitch Black, or even the cave sceens in LOTR came out fine) and my LCD never got a heat spot on it (but I bought a fan for it anyway just because). Now my screen (full size screen) is 7'x8' or something like that, and my letter box is the same length but the hight comes down a bit (letter box ofcourse) I am going to pull the projector all the way back until it fiils up as much as the wall as possible (without overlaping anything) in letter box mode (full screen mode already fills up the wall, but there is still room left on the sides) take some pics of some movies playing and then post them here. This setup works great and all my friends think it is bad ***🙂 I will try and take pics soon. Untilt hen, know that the Samsung 150MP is a good one to buy and it can be bought even at Best Buy right now🙂 cost me 495 USD after taxes (there is then a 50 dollar mail-in rebate) have fun.
Yes, I am finally done with my setup (for now, later I will place it in a nice box).
I used the Samsung 150MP 15"LCD monitor and ripped her apart. Only one card is attached to the LCD display (and one smaller card attached to that one card, like daisey chained) and it is toally out of the way. No need for cable extension or anythign at all, just "move it out of the way". 🙂 Now this monitor lets you hook up anything that will use RGB (PC ofcourse) RCA (audio and video) S-video AND coax (sp? it's for cable). That all alone makes this a nice screen to use. Now I plugged my regular DVD player into it and it did not come out as nice as I would have liked. I then went out and bought a Sony DVD player for my PC and it made a big difference🙂 The brightness was still not what I was looking for UNTIL I found the settings on the DVD software that allowed me to change them there as well. MAN that made a huge difference🙂 I no longer will need to get a better light source. I am using a 360 watt ENX lamp that came standard with my 3M OHP (2200 lumens) and it is enough to watch even the darkest movies (Pitch Black, or even the cave sceens in LOTR came out fine) and my LCD never got a heat spot on it (but I bought a fan for it anyway just because). Now my screen (full size screen) is 7'x8' or something like that, and my letter box is the same length but the hight comes down a bit (letter box ofcourse) I am going to pull the projector all the way back until it fiils up as much as the wall as possible (without overlaping anything) in letter box mode (full screen mode already fills up the wall, but there is still room left on the sides) take some pics of some movies playing and then post them here. This setup works great and all my friends think it is bad ***🙂 I will try and take pics soon. Untilt hen, know that the Samsung 150MP is a good one to buy and it can be bought even at Best Buy right now🙂 cost me 495 USD after taxes (there is then a 50 dollar mail-in rebate) have fun.
anyone know if the ve500 is a good lcd to disasemble I can get one cheap from a friend thanks- Status
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