Hi,
The sound is pure and simple exqusite. Not because it's mine (of course I am very proud of it) but because it was fine tuned to death and sounds truly breathtaking.
The sound is pure and simple exqusite. Not because it's mine (of course I am very proud of it) but because it was fine tuned to death and sounds truly breathtaking.
PICTURES SOOOO DON'T DO THE BEAST JUSTICE !!!
Hi,
The sound is pure and simple exqusite. Not because it's mine (of course I am very proud of it) but because it was fine tuned to death and sounds truly breathtaking.
Beleive me I had big Arcams, Carys, Conrad Johnsons, Bue Circles, Brystons, Sim Audios (Moon) amps in the past and NONE of them comes even close to this behemoth.
Finesse, there is so much finesse and refinement, it has to be heard to be believed. Soudstage is really openned and transparent yet not ''overblown'' in a sense that it stays natural (i.e no overrely blown instruments or singers). Every people has its own space in the soundstage and you could walk between each and every of them. Harmonics are to die for. Background is pitch black without putting a darkish sound (if you know what I mean) i.e extremelly low noise floor.
There is a lot of delicacy everywhere throughout the frequency range. You can feel the emotion, the intention of the singers and hear artists moving on the scene while playing or almost sense their mood.
In fact, it matches my Audiomeca Mephisto II.X cd player beautifully.
Attacks, decay, transients are first rate. Voices and timbres are so delicate and natural. Music will cement you in your chair !!!
Is it perfect, well no !!! I just haven't find anything better just yet...and alot of fellow audiophiles that have heard it tend to agree that it is among the very bests.
I even invite anybody in the Montreal (Canada) area to give it a listen...you'll see what I mean.
I think the amp is that good because I was ''coached'' by a fellow Montrealer that used to help and/or different Hi-End manufacurers from the region like (Totem, Sim Audio (Moon), Classé, LAQ, Tenor Audio etc). Without him, it would not be as good as this.
Still, I made several changes from the MKI version: changed Solen Caps for Mundorf Silver/Oil + Dynamicaps, some electrolytics were upgraded to Black Gates NX, fuses were changed for Hi-Fi Tuning (noticeable improvement but too much hype here). Fuseholders were upgraded to copper/silver.
Finally, the most important thing: Plitron made custom IKVA LONO transformers for me (no thermal switch, no unnecessary windings for 230V...just wired for 115V with bigger AWG and no junction whatsoever...the gain in transparency is staggering !!!
Anyway, this was my first project and I am EXTREMELLY please with it. Results are so far above my initial expectations its not even funny (well in fact it it funny)!!!
Should you have any other questions/comments, please don't hesitate.
Regards
Scorpion
Hi,
The sound is pure and simple exqusite. Not because it's mine (of course I am very proud of it) but because it was fine tuned to death and sounds truly breathtaking.
Beleive me I had big Arcams, Carys, Conrad Johnsons, Bue Circles, Brystons, Sim Audios (Moon) amps in the past and NONE of them comes even close to this behemoth.
Finesse, there is so much finesse and refinement, it has to be heard to be believed. Soudstage is really openned and transparent yet not ''overblown'' in a sense that it stays natural (i.e no overrely blown instruments or singers). Every people has its own space in the soundstage and you could walk between each and every of them. Harmonics are to die for. Background is pitch black without putting a darkish sound (if you know what I mean) i.e extremelly low noise floor.
There is a lot of delicacy everywhere throughout the frequency range. You can feel the emotion, the intention of the singers and hear artists moving on the scene while playing or almost sense their mood.
In fact, it matches my Audiomeca Mephisto II.X cd player beautifully.
Attacks, decay, transients are first rate. Voices and timbres are so delicate and natural. Music will cement you in your chair !!!
Is it perfect, well no !!! I just haven't find anything better just yet...and alot of fellow audiophiles that have heard it tend to agree that it is among the very bests.
I even invite anybody in the Montreal (Canada) area to give it a listen...you'll see what I mean.
I think the amp is that good because I was ''coached'' by a fellow Montrealer that used to help and/or different Hi-End manufacurers from the region like (Totem, Sim Audio (Moon), Classé, LAQ, Tenor Audio etc). Without him, it would not be as good as this.
Still, I made several changes from the MKI version: changed Solen Caps for Mundorf Silver/Oil + Dynamicaps, some electrolytics were upgraded to Black Gates NX, fuses were changed for Hi-Fi Tuning (noticeable improvement but too much hype here). Fuseholders were upgraded to copper/silver.
Finally, the most important thing: Plitron made custom IKVA LONO transformers for me (no thermal switch, no unnecessary windings for 230V...just wired for 115V with bigger AWG and no junction whatsoever...the gain in transparency is staggering !!!
Anyway, this was my first project and I am EXTREMELLY please with it. Results are so far above my initial expectations its not even funny (well in fact it it funny)!!!
Should you have any other questions/comments, please don't hesitate.
Regards
Scorpion
Beautifully made and a staggering weight to prove it 😱 . I really appreciate the accuracy and planning that goes into these projects, the metalwork is exceptional!
Thanks for your comments Dr.Em.
If only I could sent the numerous high-resolution pics that I have. It'd be easier to get an idea...
Regards
Scorpion
If only I could sent the numerous high-resolution pics that I have. It'd be easier to get an idea...
Regards
Scorpion
Salut Scorpion,
j'aimerais bien savoir ou tu as fais faire le travail de ton boitier (la découpe, les écritures, l'anodisation) et aussi voir ton schématic. Merci! Maxpou
j'aimerais bien savoir ou tu as fais faire le travail de ton boitier (la découpe, les écritures, l'anodisation) et aussi voir ton schématic. Merci! Maxpou
Very nice.
Tell a few words about your Plitron transformers....noise,humm,buzzz.. ..etc🙂
Any magnetic stray effect from trannies to modules?
Tell a few words about your Plitron transformers....noise,humm,buzzz.. ..etc🙂
Any magnetic stray effect from trannies to modules?
Hi all,
Here are a few answers to your questions:
First, I bought the boards from that fellow audiophile from the Montreal region that might start a business with these so unfortunately, I am not allowed to give schematics. I know it will disappoint a lot of people but that is just how it is. Sorry here.
If I sum up the characteristics....
Briefly, EACH CHANNEL is built as follow:
--1 KVa customized Plitron LONO transfo with NO thermistor/thermal switch, NO extra winding for 230V...but with a bigger AWG for wires and therefore NO junctions whatesoever (better current capability and transparency). A real improvement in transparency from the MK I version wich used stock Plitron LONO transfos.
--Power supply using 4 Mallory 40 000 uF CGS caps for a total of 160 000 uF per channel .
-- Bipolar boards with 4 outputs per channel mounted directly on boards, working in class AB, running at +- 64V, boards made of Teflon OFC 4 onces (like in big Levinson) with a dielectric of +- 2, traces sfully balanced, impedance fully balanced, heatsink and output transistors mounted directly on boards so they are fully operationnal even without a chassis, each electrolytic can is bypassed by a prolypolen cap (Mundorf Silver/Oil or Dynamicaps) directly on boards.
-- Ixys soft recovery bridges for B+ and B- per channel (so 2 bridges per channel)
-- Black Gate NX, Mixture of Mundorf Silver/Oil and Dynamicap, capacitors on specific locations on boards and Zobels (after listenning sessions)
-- Mixture of NOS Allen-Bradley, Vishays and NOS Dale resistors on specific locations ( after listenning sessions)
-- Mixture of solders (each and evry one of them chosen for sonic characteristics after listenning sessions) ranging from VDH 3% silver, Cardas tri-Eutectic (lead free) and Johnson IA 423.
-- Hi-Fi Tuning fuses (too much hype here), Acme cryo Copper/ silver fuseholders, WBT topline connectors, Furutech copper/gold inlets, copper lugs and stainless and/or brass screws etc...were little toys to experiment with as part of fine tuning that I finally left in place (there not bad though).
--7 to 16 6N-multistranded twisted-copper-braids (with Teflon insulation) per wire throughout..
-- One power cord per channel.
-- Black Diamond Racing cones (3) underneath (had to fine tune were they would end up by ears)
-- Metal work is made of 5/16 '' 6061 aluminium all around
The amp delivers 240W at 8 ohms, 480 at 4 ohms and 946 at 2 ohms...don't have the measurements at the punishing 1 ohm load though...But sincerely, I don't have other measurements as I don't really care about how things measure but only about how they sound and if I get emotionnally involved in the realism of the music being played....
TO FELIXX: The customized Plitron LONO are truly excellent, no noise, humm or buzz whatesoever and since they are encapsulated, magnetic field isn't a concern. But BTW, how can I know wheater I have a magnetic stray effect from trannies to modules ??
TO MAXPOU: Craftmanship was made by myself (I used to work in Aerospace for years...now as a nurse in a ICU...go figure !!!). Odd angles and too complicated stuff was done at EMAM (Ecole Métiers Aerospatiale Montreal) as I new a teacher down ther (a friend) that did the complicated stuff for me., Writing was done at Gravures Desmarais in Montreal (excellent place) while anodizing was made at Verdun Anodizing in Verdun.
Regards
Scorpion
Here are a few answers to your questions:
First, I bought the boards from that fellow audiophile from the Montreal region that might start a business with these so unfortunately, I am not allowed to give schematics. I know it will disappoint a lot of people but that is just how it is. Sorry here.
If I sum up the characteristics....
Briefly, EACH CHANNEL is built as follow:
--1 KVa customized Plitron LONO transfo with NO thermistor/thermal switch, NO extra winding for 230V...but with a bigger AWG for wires and therefore NO junctions whatesoever (better current capability and transparency). A real improvement in transparency from the MK I version wich used stock Plitron LONO transfos.
--Power supply using 4 Mallory 40 000 uF CGS caps for a total of 160 000 uF per channel .
-- Bipolar boards with 4 outputs per channel mounted directly on boards, working in class AB, running at +- 64V, boards made of Teflon OFC 4 onces (like in big Levinson) with a dielectric of +- 2, traces sfully balanced, impedance fully balanced, heatsink and output transistors mounted directly on boards so they are fully operationnal even without a chassis, each electrolytic can is bypassed by a prolypolen cap (Mundorf Silver/Oil or Dynamicaps) directly on boards.
-- Ixys soft recovery bridges for B+ and B- per channel (so 2 bridges per channel)
-- Black Gate NX, Mixture of Mundorf Silver/Oil and Dynamicap, capacitors on specific locations on boards and Zobels (after listenning sessions)
-- Mixture of NOS Allen-Bradley, Vishays and NOS Dale resistors on specific locations ( after listenning sessions)
-- Mixture of solders (each and evry one of them chosen for sonic characteristics after listenning sessions) ranging from VDH 3% silver, Cardas tri-Eutectic (lead free) and Johnson IA 423.
-- Hi-Fi Tuning fuses (too much hype here), Acme cryo Copper/ silver fuseholders, WBT topline connectors, Furutech copper/gold inlets, copper lugs and stainless and/or brass screws etc...were little toys to experiment with as part of fine tuning that I finally left in place (there not bad though).
--7 to 16 6N-multistranded twisted-copper-braids (with Teflon insulation) per wire throughout..
-- One power cord per channel.
-- Black Diamond Racing cones (3) underneath (had to fine tune were they would end up by ears)
-- Metal work is made of 5/16 '' 6061 aluminium all around
The amp delivers 240W at 8 ohms, 480 at 4 ohms and 946 at 2 ohms...don't have the measurements at the punishing 1 ohm load though...But sincerely, I don't have other measurements as I don't really care about how things measure but only about how they sound and if I get emotionnally involved in the realism of the music being played....
TO FELIXX: The customized Plitron LONO are truly excellent, no noise, humm or buzz whatesoever and since they are encapsulated, magnetic field isn't a concern. But BTW, how can I know wheater I have a magnetic stray effect from trannies to modules ??
TO MAXPOU: Craftmanship was made by myself (I used to work in Aerospace for years...now as a nurse in a ICU...go figure !!!). Odd angles and too complicated stuff was done at EMAM (Ecole Métiers Aerospatiale Montreal) as I new a teacher down ther (a friend) that did the complicated stuff for me., Writing was done at Gravures Desmarais in Montreal (excellent place) while anodizing was made at Verdun Anodizing in Verdun.
Regards
Scorpion
Real nice construction job. At 140 lbs, I’m guessing that you don’t take it around to audition at friends houses too often. 😉
With only two outputs per rail and 64 volt rails, you’re probably pushing the SOA limits of the outputs at 2 ohms. I’m guessing that a full power test into 1 ohm might be a bad idea.
Are you using bootstraps, or a CFP output stage?? Looks like it pulls close to the rails (with power figures like that at 64V).
With only two outputs per rail and 64 volt rails, you’re probably pushing the SOA limits of the outputs at 2 ohms. I’m guessing that a full power test into 1 ohm might be a bad idea.
Are you using bootstraps, or a CFP output stage?? Looks like it pulls close to the rails (with power figures like that at 64V).
The simple test is to listen into your speakers with shorting inputs RCA,but these speakers MUST be in 98-100db spl area to be able to hear some humm or zzzz.
I make some test with my amp on 90db speakers and all is going fine but when I switch to 98db this problems apear.
Anyway...good work.
Scorpion, it nice to see that you spent a lot of effort to get a very good final result that you are proud of.
Nice work and congratulations from Tokyo.
🙂
Nice work and congratulations from Tokyo.
🙂
QUOTE...[With only two outputs per rail and 64 volt rails, you’re probably pushing the SOA limits of the outputs at 2 ohms. I’m guessing that a full power test into 1 ohm might be a bad idea.]
I know Kaos and that's why I intend to double up the output transistors (+ heatsink) on this project or on the next one...as I might eventually make another one and go biamping.
Still, I don't listen to my music very loud and I am not pushing the amp too hard. Still, believe me it has so much reserve than music stays rock solid and composed even in some very demanding orchestral music. Music doesn't get confused at all even when I crank up the volume to almost discomfort level (so says the wife ;-) ). Every instruments stays where it should be i.e. in its own space with a lot of air/space between them.
Anyway, I think you get the picture.
Next projects will be another amp (probably the same design with more output transistors) but I will probably start to build a dual-mono tube preamp with external power supply first....
I will probably base it on the very musical Blue Circle BC3000 MKII + GZpz optionnal power supply...but with much more solid aluminum craftmanship (5/16 '' at least...all around), better parts/cabling, bigger power supply and less inputs/ outputs (as I dont need that many). I will just take a more purist approach...
Regards
Scorpion
I know Kaos and that's why I intend to double up the output transistors (+ heatsink) on this project or on the next one...as I might eventually make another one and go biamping.
Still, I don't listen to my music very loud and I am not pushing the amp too hard. Still, believe me it has so much reserve than music stays rock solid and composed even in some very demanding orchestral music. Music doesn't get confused at all even when I crank up the volume to almost discomfort level (so says the wife ;-) ). Every instruments stays where it should be i.e. in its own space with a lot of air/space between them.
Anyway, I think you get the picture.
Next projects will be another amp (probably the same design with more output transistors) but I will probably start to build a dual-mono tube preamp with external power supply first....
I will probably base it on the very musical Blue Circle BC3000 MKII + GZpz optionnal power supply...but with much more solid aluminum craftmanship (5/16 '' at least...all around), better parts/cabling, bigger power supply and less inputs/ outputs (as I dont need that many). I will just take a more purist approach...
Regards
Scorpion
Does it have any fusing at all? 
As for removing junctions: I assume it has a power switch? Plugged into a wall outlet? Connected to the grid?
Edit: Now that I've logged in and the pictures have loaded I see power switches, IEC sockets and presumably standard power outlets.
Don't get me wrong, I'm sure it sounds great, I just don't think getting rid of that particular safety feature will do anything but make your amp a small fire hazzard.
As for removing junctions: I assume it has a power switch? Plugged into a wall outlet? Connected to the grid?
Edit: Now that I've logged in and the pictures have loaded I see power switches, IEC sockets and presumably standard power outlets.
Don't get me wrong, I'm sure it sounds great, I just don't think getting rid of that particular safety feature will do anything but make your amp a small fire hazzard.
[QUOTE: Edit: Now that I've logged in and the pictures have loaded I see power switches, IEC sockets and presumably standard power outlets.
Don't get me wrong, I'm sure it sounds great, I just don't think getting rid of that particular safety feature will do anything but make your amp a small fire hazzard.]
Hi Tim_X,
The amp does have a power switch + IEC inlet (both rated at 20 amps if I remember correctly) + a fuse on the AC + 2 fuses on the boards......per channel.
Before having the thermistor/thermal switch removed from my customized Plitron LONO, I talked with an engineer at Plitron to see wheter it would represent a fire hazard or not. I gave him the specs of my power amp (power supply wise) and I was told that since the LONO are made in such a way that you have very low inrush current (safety measur- ??), I wouldn't need the thermal switch and would remain on the safe side.
I forgot to say that the transfos were custom made for exactly 120 V (not the usual 115-117V) and I usually have 121-122V coming into my wall outlets.
Since I have NO relays (hate the sound of them), I decided to put a ON/ON switch with a heavy-duty-heatsinked resistors in ''safety mode'' on one side. So the amp is basically always ON .
When it's on ''safety mode'' current has to go through the big resistors. So should there be a blackout (no electricity for a while) and the big power supply capacitors get emptied, and then let's say, the electricity would return, signal would then have to go trough the resistors and there would be a delay of 7-8 secondes before reaching peak values therefore avoiding big surges. AMP IS ALWAYS ON ''SAFETY MODE'' WHEN I AM NOT LISTENNING.
When I do listen, I then turn the amp ON---bypassing the heavy duty resistor in the process--so I got nothing in the signal but the AC fuse, power switch and IEC inlet. NO relays, PCB boards, chips in the signal as safeties.
I am trying to explain the best I can. I am NOT a tech gizmo + english is not my first language. Just doing my best. My thing is more about fine tuning the sound than anything else.
Should you have more questions, please don't hesitate.
Regards
Scorpion
Don't get me wrong, I'm sure it sounds great, I just don't think getting rid of that particular safety feature will do anything but make your amp a small fire hazzard.]
Hi Tim_X,
The amp does have a power switch + IEC inlet (both rated at 20 amps if I remember correctly) + a fuse on the AC + 2 fuses on the boards......per channel.
Before having the thermistor/thermal switch removed from my customized Plitron LONO, I talked with an engineer at Plitron to see wheter it would represent a fire hazard or not. I gave him the specs of my power amp (power supply wise) and I was told that since the LONO are made in such a way that you have very low inrush current (safety measur- ??), I wouldn't need the thermal switch and would remain on the safe side.
I forgot to say that the transfos were custom made for exactly 120 V (not the usual 115-117V) and I usually have 121-122V coming into my wall outlets.
Since I have NO relays (hate the sound of them), I decided to put a ON/ON switch with a heavy-duty-heatsinked resistors in ''safety mode'' on one side. So the amp is basically always ON .
When it's on ''safety mode'' current has to go through the big resistors. So should there be a blackout (no electricity for a while) and the big power supply capacitors get emptied, and then let's say, the electricity would return, signal would then have to go trough the resistors and there would be a delay of 7-8 secondes before reaching peak values therefore avoiding big surges. AMP IS ALWAYS ON ''SAFETY MODE'' WHEN I AM NOT LISTENNING.
When I do listen, I then turn the amp ON---bypassing the heavy duty resistor in the process--so I got nothing in the signal but the AC fuse, power switch and IEC inlet. NO relays, PCB boards, chips in the signal as safeties.
I am trying to explain the best I can. I am NOT a tech gizmo + english is not my first language. Just doing my best. My thing is more about fine tuning the sound than anything else.
Should you have more questions, please don't hesitate.
Regards
Scorpion
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