Hello Gents,...been a while as I was moving to a new home. Recently my DAC, a SMSL sanskrit 10-th edition MK-III, has broke down. Everything works but no output at the RCA's. Installed my old MK-II and it works for now. I'm looking for a new DAC in the range of € 200,-, maybe a bit more when it's worth it.
I know it slightly off topic but is there a DAC which works particularly well with the Wolverine or does it not really matter? I;m looking at the smsl DL100 as a replacement.
Any comments tips welcome...
thx in advance
reg
willem
I know it slightly off topic but is there a DAC which works particularly well with the Wolverine or does it not really matter? I;m looking at the smsl DL100 as a replacement.
Any comments tips welcome...
thx in advance
reg
willem
Hi willem,
No, it doesn't matter. Your amp is extremely good, so I would think you would be looking for an extremely good DAC. It's well worth getting a great source.
As for your SMSL sanskrit 10-th edition MK-III, it can probably be fixed and you'll have another for another system.
-Chris
No, it doesn't matter. Your amp is extremely good, so I would think you would be looking for an extremely good DAC. It's well worth getting a great source.
As for your SMSL sanskrit 10-th edition MK-III, it can probably be fixed and you'll have another for another system.
-Chris
Depends. If you like good sound then you might want to listen to some exceptionally good dacs before deciding. What kind of speakers do you have?
I'have the Kef Reference Model III from the ninetees. I'm indeed wandering whether or not I can improve the sound a bit.
Hi Willem, chances are likely that the (serial!) muting IC at the outputs has failed. Be careful as the construction is made so that it is very hard to put together if you pull all the cables off the front cover so please do not slide the mainboard fully out of the casing. Don't say I did not warn you 🙂
If you have signal at either side of those resistors it is OK apart from the muting IC. Replacing the muting IC can only be done by experienced people with the right equipment. You can bridge the IC and then have no muting but that is up to you.
For some reason these ICs like to fail contrary to muting relays. I suspect ESD via the RCA cables. All I know is is they are semiconductor based and no comparison to muting to GND with relays plus they fail. Be assured the device performs sonically better without the SGM3710.
http://www.visvie.com/static/upload/file/20220121/1642747164583685.pdf
I modify/modified both the II and III and they're excellent DACs.
If you have signal at either side of those resistors it is OK apart from the muting IC. Replacing the muting IC can only be done by experienced people with the right equipment. You can bridge the IC and then have no muting but that is up to you.
For some reason these ICs like to fail contrary to muting relays. I suspect ESD via the RCA cables. All I know is is they are semiconductor based and no comparison to muting to GND with relays plus they fail. Be assured the device performs sonically better without the SGM3710.
http://www.visvie.com/static/upload/file/20220121/1642747164583685.pdf
I modify/modified both the II and III and they're excellent DACs.
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A well...thats sounds like a job I can handle. I obviously need to know which pins to bridge.....
Just look at the picture and see the connections. You will need to connect a wire in each channel from the resistors upper pins (so muting/switch IC side) to the output pins of the RCA.
Or technically better: just with very thin tinned copper (solid) wires over the PCB tracks of the muting IC. Removing the IC with normal DIY tools is a no no. Maybe you can cut the pins with a fresh/sharp scalpel but please no mechanical force as the PCB material is brittle. Where are you located in NL?
Or technically better: just with very thin tinned copper (solid) wires over the PCB tracks of the muting IC. Removing the IC with normal DIY tools is a no no. Maybe you can cut the pins with a fresh/sharp scalpel but please no mechanical force as the PCB material is brittle. Where are you located in NL?
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Should be no problem......and btw I know about the wiring-band to the front-panel. Need to instruct the wife that muting isn't an option anymore🙂
Or install a NAIS AGN series micro relay shorting RCA L + R to Audio GND at power on and releasing after 3 seconds. Thinking in solutions. It is a simple circuit out of the signal path and therefor both effective and non intrusive.
Anyway you have been informed. Good luck with the repair.
And eh... if you read here again that relays are unreliable just think a second of SGM3710 🙂
Anyway you have been informed. Good luck with the repair.
And eh... if you read here again that relays are unreliable just think a second of SGM3710 🙂
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That is a mk II and not the III. Does not even look like the situation on the picture of a III. I think you better leave it to someone experienced.
Yeah you are right....had both dac's lying on the table. Didn't pay attention as they are lookalikes. This is the right one...
Added a picture before where you can clearly see the IC is “in between”. Also on your picture it is clear as glass what the signal paths of L and R are. Do the math. If this is too hard just leave it.
BTW opening 2 devices is asking for mistakes.
BTW opening 2 devices is asking for mistakes.
Correct. Have to go, other things to do. Ciao!
You could try with a very sharp scalpel or those throw away hobby knives to cut the pins of the SGM. Slowly like sawing. No force, if it takes 5 minutes then so be it.
Of course work ESD safe with stuff connected to PE.
You could try with a very sharp scalpel or those throw away hobby knives to cut the pins of the SGM. Slowly like sawing. No force, if it takes 5 minutes then so be it.
Of course work ESD safe with stuff connected to PE.
I would get myself some flux, a heatgun and tweezers. There's no plane on the bottom of that IC, so with some hot air it should be easy to remove.
Or make a square out of a bit of thicker single ore copper wire, fitting over the traces, and add some solder. But before heating it up, add something to lift the IC upwards using some glue or tejp. The heat the copper wire until it lifts off applying som lifting force at the same time as heating with an iron...!?
What is the behaviour of the unit once removed - I'm thinking of doing this on mine,...
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What is the behaviour of the unit once removed - I'm thinking of doing this on mine,...
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