Hi,
I am new to DACs. I bought a DAC and I am using SPDIF for digital connection. When I play music, there is a quiet clicking/ticking, almost sounding like it's skipping during the playback of music. The sound quality is good but what is going on with this "clicking"? I would say it happens every 30 seconds but sometimes randomly. It's the SMSL SU-1 and the only selection it provides is the input selection, no other adjustments that I can tell.
I tried different RCA cables, but same issue.
Is this an issue with compatibility?
Any advice on a solution?
Your help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
I am new to DACs. I bought a DAC and I am using SPDIF for digital connection. When I play music, there is a quiet clicking/ticking, almost sounding like it's skipping during the playback of music. The sound quality is good but what is going on with this "clicking"? I would say it happens every 30 seconds but sometimes randomly. It's the SMSL SU-1 and the only selection it provides is the input selection, no other adjustments that I can tell.
I tried different RCA cables, but same issue.
Is this an issue with compatibility?
Any advice on a solution?
Your help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Hi, I have seen/tested and modified many SU-1. It is a very good DAC for an unrealistic low price. The phenomenon you describe when using SPDIF means you use a USB PSU as SU-1 is USB bus powered unfortunately. So your issue is likely due to using a cheap as possible phone charger or such Hang Chi Hing SMPS as a power supply.
SU-1 performs a lot better with either a linear PSU with USB-C connector (quite uncommon so DIY) or by removing bus power and give it a separate linear power supply (also very DIY) so it also benefits when using USB. I do the latter with military connectors. Economically insane but worth the effort.
Easy way out is buying a slightly better cheap USB-C phone charger and replace it when it pops after a year.
* PCB material is very sensitive in these. Don't think of reworking or modding.
SU-1 performs a lot better with either a linear PSU with USB-C connector (quite uncommon so DIY) or by removing bus power and give it a separate linear power supply (also very DIY) so it also benefits when using USB. I do the latter with military connectors. Economically insane but worth the effort.
Easy way out is buying a slightly better cheap USB-C phone charger and replace it when it pops after a year.
* PCB material is very sensitive in these. Don't think of reworking or modding.
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Hi Jean Paul,
Yes I use the usb block ps but it’s the Apple brand and I thought those were top quality. I suppose I can feed it linear psu.
It’s usb C so I need to figure out how to make a linear psu with usb c termination.
Yes I use the usb block ps but it’s the Apple brand and I thought those were top quality. I suppose I can feed it linear psu.
It’s usb C so I need to figure out how to make a linear psu with usb c termination.
Hi I just teased a little. You need a stupid PSU and not a smart one. Just 5V 1A no PD, no PPS, no GaN and how all that gizmo is called. You don't want switched "green" with free added RF no you want 5V 1A clean power. Probably the old Apple 1A ones function OK with the DAC. Since I compared with a linear one all SMPS testing was halted. Too big of a difference to ignore.
Yes I did not use the new connector without a reason 🙂 There is a picture in my thread about SU-1 I think.
Yes I did not use the new connector without a reason 🙂 There is a picture in my thread about SU-1 I think.
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Hi Jean Paul,
I tried a linear PSU but same issue persists. Occasional clicking/ticking. Any other thoughts?
My only idea is to try another DAC of same price point, maybe Modi+. Only one way to find out....
I tried a linear PSU but same issue persists. Occasional clicking/ticking. Any other thoughts?
My only idea is to try another DAC of same price point, maybe Modi+. Only one way to find out....
Hi, that is unusual. I have modified and tested about 14 of these and the pattern is positive. If you are sure all other items in your setup can't cause this and also have tested it on USB and have the same phenomenon then send it back and demand another example. What I now do suspect (I am driving in the dark) is the muting chip that is damaged/unreliable. In other devices I already saw these dying maybe because of ESD via the RCA cables. They are a cheap solution but I can only wish they go back to relays.
I am not sure if Modi+ is an update, from what I heard SMSL D6s is and it is on my list of stuff to try out.
I am not sure if Modi+ is an update, from what I heard SMSL D6s is and it is on my list of stuff to try out.
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I also had switching noise problems on a small SMSL PO100AK dac.
The problem came from the XMOS chip waking up and going to sleep.
I had to reflash the chip with another firmware with DFU software, Also check the Windows settings, USB power management.
The problem came from the XMOS chip waking up and going to sleep.
I had to reflash the chip with another firmware with DFU software, Also check the Windows settings, USB power management.
OP uses SPDIF coax.
Apparently USB use can have some issues (which I never experienced):
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/smsl-su-1-stereo-dac-review.44029/page-24
There is no user available firmware update for the SU-1. Maybe the ones I had were a batch with factory updated firmware or maybe EU sold versions are different. Never heard a plop.
Apparently USB use can have some issues (which I never experienced):
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/smsl-su-1-stereo-dac-review.44029/page-24
There is no user available firmware update for the SU-1. Maybe the ones I had were a batch with factory updated firmware or maybe EU sold versions are different. Never heard a plop.
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Yes but .... to know if the coaxial input goes through the Xmos chip or not...Coaxial to I2S ... 🤔
For my case, from memory....I had to adapt a firmware from another model with the same chip.
Warning The smsl po100AK has only basic functions, so this manipulation might not work...🤢
Xmos drivers are more protected than their firmware... The firmware doesn't care about the brand of the DAC....Unlike the drivers....!
Ok so OP can just throw any firmware and flash the SU-1 straight to recycling?! IMHO giving such information only makes sense when it is complete (and tested).
Version number, how to do it etc. A bit like you like information to be shared.
Version number, how to do it etc. A bit like you like information to be shared.
And that's why... I notified ATTENTION...
But personally, I have never burned an Xmos chip or Dac chip, because of a bad firmware.
And it is always possible to reflash it to go back.
Besides, this is the advantage of these Xmos cards.
But personally, I have never burned an Xmos chip or Dac chip, because of a bad firmware.
And it is always possible to reflash it to go back.
Besides, this is the advantage of these Xmos cards.
I'm not a great flasher. Never done that. Are there links to how it's done? I'm worried I can do some damage to this unit.
"Modi+" is the Schiit brand of the same price category. I was thinking it's worth a try.
"Modi+" is the Schiit brand of the same price category. I was thinking it's worth a try.
This is not a recommendation!
I had to do it myself to adapt these cards to my projects.
Number of channels, sampling, etc.
I had to do it myself to adapt these cards to my projects.
Number of channels, sampling, etc.
A track that I had to explore... https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...oud-popping-noise-in-topping-dac.27444/page-2
It's very easy for XMOS, because of how DFU (device firmware update) is usually implemented and whether security is enabled (JTAG OFF etc. in OTP) - just using DFU, but the wrong firmware (specially made malicious firmware, but sometimes just from another device).
You will not burn the chip physically, but the device will become unusable - this is called a "brick" in the language of embedders.
Many XMOSs have firmware stored not inside it but in a separate eeprom in encrypted form.
In XMOS itself there is only the initial bootloader and the code for decryption. They are flashed once (otp) and do not change when updating the firmware. Some XMosogs have EEPROM inside (like KSUF208)
So, after "bricking" the device can be restored by flashing only the EEPROM, but this is already a trick if "Restore Factory" option is not works...
Alex.