I can only speak for what's I've seen locally to me, but let me put it to you this way: I think it'd burn well. Vile stuff, with roughly the stiffness-weight ratio of a BMW Z3 (the floppiest car I've ever had the misfortune to get behind the wheel of).
No, like the bracing shown in these: http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/English-Auto-Series-061109.pdf
No, like the bracing shown in these: http://homepage.mac.com/tlinespeakers/FH/download/English-Auto-Series-061109.pdf
Beg a ride in an original MG TC, Morgan three wheeler or similar to appreciate how 'stiff' the Z3's 'floppiness'.😱 Heck, even the doors on a well maintained '56 'M' kitted A-H 104 I owned briefly would unlatch/fly open around high speed bends, so had to keep them bungee corded shut.
GM
GM
Fair points well made Greg. 😱 Not the ideal car for carrying a rapidly cooling pizza home then? 😉 I really should've qualified that a bit. OTOH, I still maintain the Z3's structure is way too weak for a car with sporting pretentions that was developed in the '90s.
Oh, don't get me wrong, I agree 100%! I test drove a used one back to back with a Honda S2000 several years ago and there was no comparison. I was really lusting after the 2000, but I needed a PU way more than a roadster. My late 'babied' '88 RX7 convertible moved around way too much with the top down also, forcing me to switch to less performance oriented tires long term, though much better with its top up. Still, it scared its original owner enough for her to buy a 944 convertible to get both a better rollover protection and airbags.
GM
GM
>>> the stiffness-weight ratio of a BMW Z3 (the floppiest car I've ever had the misfortune to get behind the wheel of).
Audi spoils us for even BMWs imo... wife just picked up a Q5 (which was great during our 10 hour trip to Virginia last month) and i expect to pick up the latest A4 in a few months... tho my boys want me to get the swoopy A5.
As for the 207e... if you have them and want a big cab there are several happy BIB builders out there enjoying them. Seems the 207e is certainly worth purchasing.
Zilla
Audi spoils us for even BMWs imo... wife just picked up a Q5 (which was great during our 10 hour trip to Virginia last month) and i expect to pick up the latest A4 in a few months... tho my boys want me to get the swoopy A5.
As for the 207e... if you have them and want a big cab there are several happy BIB builders out there enjoying them. Seems the 207e is certainly worth purchasing.
Zilla
Do consider a lamination of materials. With a base of 12mm good multiply, one can then laminate another layer of ply, particle board, solid or even MDF.
For bracing, 12mm ply, but instead of laminating use more braces -- including bracing the braces.
dave
Complaining on a BMW, Morgan and Suzuki?
I guess you guys never drove a Ficho...
Dave, my old man have clamps but I've never used them... I'll need to consult my friend, the woodworking hobbyst. I'm not sure how to glue such big surfaces together without leaving some air gaps... Places selling that 1/2" ply said it's not guaranteed free of air bubbles. Will I risk resonance/vibration/rattling where some bigger gaps are?
I guess there isn't an easy choice about anything... 🙂
Scott, we're talking about that middle piece? Do I need to make the same circle shaped holes? What are those actually doing in that Lotus (and other your designs)?
Dave, use more braces -- including bracing the braces? But how?
Godzilla, tnx for the sugestion I might try BIB after Chang... I'll need second set of cabinets for BOFUs anyway. I just wish there were some ppl around me with few already made cabinets of the BVR/BIB/Vofo variety, so I could hear them... But alas, no chance of that.
I guess you guys never drove a Ficho...
Dave, my old man have clamps but I've never used them... I'll need to consult my friend, the woodworking hobbyst. I'm not sure how to glue such big surfaces together without leaving some air gaps... Places selling that 1/2" ply said it's not guaranteed free of air bubbles. Will I risk resonance/vibration/rattling where some bigger gaps are?
I guess there isn't an easy choice about anything... 🙂
Scott, we're talking about that middle piece? Do I need to make the same circle shaped holes? What are those actually doing in that Lotus (and other your designs)?
Dave, use more braces -- including bracing the braces? But how?
Godzilla, tnx for the sugestion I might try BIB after Chang... I'll need second set of cabinets for BOFUs anyway. I just wish there were some ppl around me with few already made cabinets of the BVR/BIB/Vofo variety, so I could hear them... But alas, no chance of that.
Voids can be any shape. We have good hole saws so they tend to be round. I can't prove it, but i also have a feeling that they leave the brace stiffer.
1st thing i'd do is extend the brace to full height. What is shown in the picture is primamrily a driver brace to spread driver reactio energy to the back of the cabinet.
You can also brace externally, ie an exoskeleton. See the attached pictures and visualizations. With sufficient bracing, you might well get away with 12mm thru-out -- no laminating (except maybe sides & baffle)
Do not place any braces perpendicular to the baffle just behind the driver.
dave
Attachments
Fascinating. Those braces edges and voids are rounded (beveled)?
Should I maybe do something similar to the second example (inner chamber size resembles Chang's one)? I'll draw that on the G Chang pic later...
You say the driver brace is to spread driver reactio energy to the back of the cabinet, how is this affecting the sound?
Just curious...
P.S. Is this a birth of G Chang 1v02 aka the cheap cabinet materials version? 😱
Should I maybe do something similar to the second example (inner chamber size resembles Chang's one)? I'll draw that on the G Chang pic later...
You say the driver brace is to spread driver reactio energy to the back of the cabinet, how is this affecting the sound?
Just curious...
P.S. Is this a birth of G Chang 1v02 aka the cheap cabinet materials version? 😱
That really is unecessary... it does have some very minor theoretical pluses but is a whole lot of work. The box with the rounded bevels are for $3.5k/pr drivers. No effort was spared.
Instead of dumping all the reaction energy just into the baffle where it is very likely to be heard, it shares that energy among baffle, back & the brace -- also the top and botton, if full length. Sharing the energy greatly reduces the likelihood of enuff energy being available to start a resonance, and if one does, there is more material to damp it.
dave
In theory, the stepped slope will cause more diffraction of any higher frequencies (noise) emanating from the mouth, making it decay away faster. This is a good thing, but with such a 'tight' sawtooth pattern I have to wonder if it makes any audible improvement.
GM
GM
GM has the theory, but as he says, it likely makes little difference except cosmetic. If you use a slanted vestigal deflector on the top, and the steps on the bottom you do get a lower centre of gravity.
dave
dave
Tnx. I like both the cosmetic and the sound improving (even in theory) factors. But to keep things in frugal way and save some wood I came up with the idea presented in the attached picture. Plan is to use narrow planks of wood, all of them leaning on subtracted 45° deflector.
Than I was planning to put sand in lower compartment, to stop it from possible resonations (did I red somewhere that this was recommended?) and also to stabilize it further. Maybe fill the higher compartment with something not heavy... don't have any ideas with what ATM.
Than I was planning to put sand in lower compartment, to stop it from possible resonations (did I red somewhere that this was recommended?) and also to stabilize it further. Maybe fill the higher compartment with something not heavy... don't have any ideas with what ATM.
Attachments
Hi Vann , I suggest to use something like ... ok,it is a quiz because I don't know
the word : it is available in little blocks ,it's white and light and easy workable.
Maybe the definition is Microporous Concrete.
the word : it is available in little blocks ,it's white and light and easy workable.
Maybe the definition is Microporous Concrete.
You mean Siporex maybe? (or Aerated autoclaved concrete)
It's a possibility, it be could shaped to fit in the upper gap and some excessive glue could take care of the remaining gaps... Tnx for the idea.
It's a possibility, it be could shaped to fit in the upper gap and some excessive glue could take care of the remaining gaps... Tnx for the idea.
Yes it is . I remember I saw a housejob-diy-book with lots of projects for building pieces of furniture ,sofas ,kitchens.etc with that material ,since you can apply plaster on it ,and you only need a saw . Clever material ,I've used it twice in the cabinets.
Yes, I actually have a brick or two, leftovers from some construction retooling... Will do that unless I think of something easier.
Need recommendations for some very cheap tweeters (from parts-express) to join Tang Band W4-930SF 4 in the rear speakers... I'm not sure if I need them at all with this TB's, but still... having some cheap spares can't hurt.
Was thinking maybe something like:
Goldwood GT-1005 Wide Dispersion Piezo Tweeter | Parts-Express.com
Goldwood GT-1016 2" x 5" Wide Dispersion Piezo Horn Tweeter | Parts-Express.com
Goldwood GT-302/S 1/2" Mylar Dome Tweeter Shielded | Parts-Express.com
Need recommendations for some very cheap tweeters (from parts-express) to join Tang Band W4-930SF 4 in the rear speakers... I'm not sure if I need them at all with this TB's, but still... having some cheap spares can't hurt.
Was thinking maybe something like:
Goldwood GT-1005 Wide Dispersion Piezo Tweeter | Parts-Express.com
Goldwood GT-1016 2" x 5" Wide Dispersion Piezo Horn Tweeter | Parts-Express.com
Goldwood GT-302/S 1/2" Mylar Dome Tweeter Shielded | Parts-Express.com
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