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Need Help Understanding/Optimising a Schematic

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I read lots of good things on sites about those tubes and the smaller versions of that amp. I originaly only wanted about 150 watts total because i was going to go electrostatic. Now i dont know, is it senceable to have for example quad esl's with 15" woofers for bass? This amp i so big i have to think how i will use the watts. I have always liked the sound of massive diameter woofers, they have a certain "big" sound to them. I think the decideing factor is te $$$ of the iron. For all custom wound iron how much are we talking? 100's or 1000's?

edit: hmm: http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~sowter/specs/u072.htm
 
From what i see now the KT88 is a little out of my price range, not the iron but plainly the tubes. A matched set of good nos tubes will cost...wow... many thousands of $. I think i would like to go with an amp based on tubes that are not as... expensive? From a bit of reasearch i think i would like it based on 6L6GC, 5881 or EL34. Unfortuatly i can not find any scematics.

edit: I suck at finding scematics but i think i found somthing:
http://mhuss.com/Hiwatt/Schematics/DR_200wOutput6.pdf
Why is it so simple? Is it a high pieced piece of crap?
 
Decisions.........

How about a push-pull with 813s'?????
This is a very imposing looking tube that stands something like six inches high!!! Easy to drive as it is a pentode...very powerful, awesome glass.
Do a search...somebodys tried it I'm sure...just find a schematic & run with it!
____________________________________Rick........
 
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Joined 2004
Better yet how about a 400W amp based on the EL34? Wouldent be to hard because each tube puts out 90W of power.
You are seriously off the mark here! If you look at EL34 data sheets, you will see that you can supposedly get 100w per pair (which is probably what you meant to say, instead of per tube) in class B, with 800v on the plates, 400v on the screens, fixed bias and p-p load of 10k. Supposedly, 6550s or KT88s could give even more output in class B, since they can dissipate 35%-40% more power.

Only trouble is, class B means lots of higher order odd harmonic distortion (5th, 7th, 9th, 11th, etc.). It may have enough quality for use as a PA but it is harsh and unmusical, a far cry from hi-fi. Any sonic advantages from using tubes instead of SS are lost, which is why it's not the sort of tube amp that you find nowadays. In fact, SS does this particular job much better: it's a lot more cost effective, it can give more power, it's more reliable, it's more convenience and, in general, it will not sound any worse than a PA using tubes. SS is also uses safer operating voltages.
 
You know if you really would have that kinda money why not just buy a Mc275?? :eek:





Anyways... I have a set of fairly effecient speakers and a 15wpch ss amp. Cranks like hell!

To get really cranking , I tried out my neighbors pioneer flouroscan ( nice reciever) which is 40 wpch, and louder than I would ever need. You really don't need all that watage unless your using it as a PA amp or you have really terribly inefficient speakers. As for the 'big woofers' are we talking about subwoofers here? As far as I'm concerned, if you need serious bass use a SS amp, as you won't notice too much of a diff., provided its just for a sub.

If you do indeed have large woofers in your cabs ( 15's I take it?) I think a 20 wpch RMS tube amp would suffice.

You could go with pp 6v6, which will sound very nice and give you about 15 watts. Or a couple of EL34's, which whill give you more than you should need. look up a dynaco st70 schematic .


Yes watt for watt, tubes are louder than SS because they have more dynamic headroom at the onset of clipping, you can push the tube amp a little more than you can the transistor amp before it distorts badly.

Honestly, I think if you need anything over 50 watts in hi-fi audio.... go with solid state :whazzat: LM3886 chipamp comes to mind...

As for gettin shocked and burned? If you never do it you won't know how dangerous this stuff can be! I got shocked a few times with 270v+ when building my 5 watt guitar amp, left a burn mark on my thumb and almost numbed my arm... NOT FUN STUFF! :bigeyes: The voltages needed for high power tube amps are a bit insane , and will cause transformer prices to go up. I will tell you that when building my 5 watt guitar amp, it cost me over $300 to complete. This is even using cheap JJ tubes ( one EL84, one EZ81, two 12ax7's) this is counting cabinet and speaker, so realistically for the amp section about $260. thats for 5 watts! Be sure your budget can handle it when you start......


if you bought this : http://www.tubesandmore.com/new/scr...evclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=P-T272HX


power transformer , $60, will give you about 120 watts of power.
http://www.tubesandmore.com/new/scr...evclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=P-T1650K two of these, 50 watts per channel basically. Thats about $75 each.

Then you get your tubes... mm another $50 if you get cheapies. You have over $250 already in JUST the transformers and tubes. Then you have to add in your chassis, tube socekts, pots, resistors caps ( which can be reall expensive depending on the quality you choose).


You are probably looking at $400 for a good powerful stereo amplifier.

I'm not trying to discourage you by any means, but as a first amp I sure wouldnt want to have $400 go up in smoke! I would look on ebay for a Magnavox console amplifier, usually 2 6v6's per channel, a couple of tube rectifiers, and some good iron. Can be had for usually less than $100 after shipping. Also try looking up Bogen and Stromberg carlson... Eico... etc . Just type in stereo tube amp on ebay and see what comes up. That might be best for a first project, as I messed with already built stuff before my first build so I would get a good grip on what I was dealing with.
 
I was prepaired to spend $1k but no more than $300 on tubes because i will need new every 5 years. Ebay is my friend, you can get stuff cheap if you wait, watch and spend alot of time on it.

Anyway i still need an amp, i decided to sell my ESL-63's and get somthing a little cheaper more geared for classic rock. Im looking at some maggie MG-III's locally i think i am going to buy. Will allow for more DAC funding. They are 200w/ch, so i would like 100-150 watts per/ch. Could be 80w/ch but like it loud so it might be cutting it close.
I got to get moving on this amp, my home theater has been in r&d too long :( Tell me about thouse HI-WATT scematics

edit: Oh ya i need to optimise this preamp scematic also, i would like to start getting the parts this week:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

this isnt olt? why no Outputty?
 
My 10 cents.

The key are the speakers. Once you fixed speakers, than you choose amp for them. And while doing so please consider if bi-ampig is an option. you might achieve better quality cheaper with bi-amping.

Sorry to say, but schematics you posted originally does not look very good.

:)
 
Ex-Moderator
Joined 2004
A. What should i change?
Well, there's no need for two separate regulator circuits, IMHO. I'm sure one would be enough.

B. What kind of preamp is this?
It's a grounded cathode stage direct coupled to a White cathode follower. Actually looks a bit like Morgan Jones's headphone amp, except for the fixed bias, which I guess might give more headroom. However, the White cathode follower is only really useful if you want a headphone take-off or you intend to use a long interconnect cable between preamp and main amp.

C. Does it look like it will have good sound?
Sound should be very good, with wide bandwidth, minimal distortion and very low OP impedance.
 
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