I don't know where to find one it does need to have a loudness Tap the potentiometer has the writing ACT-171-0-100KB1X2 411N on it any help would be appreciated ive been looking for a few weeks now 🙁
Good luck trying to source a TAPPED volume pot these days!
If the control is useable, it's always best to stick with it, and perhaps a proper cleaning with Deoxit may bring results.
Apparently, it's become EVIL and a SIN to equip audio devices with such a control.
The eccentric "audiophiles" have generated the ongoing, and very tiring adjenda of insisting that any sort of "tone controls" or sound-shaping (including the natural effects that a Fletcher Munson curve adds) by use of a tapped control is very un-HiFi.
FLAT is how you should listen to your music, because "they" say so. - Audio Snobbery.
To me, a long-time experienced tech, it's just another form of manipulation, like so many other things are these days.
A work-around is required using a "normal" pot, however several additional components are required to achieve a suitable behavior - capacitors, resistors, and some modification of the unit its used in.
There are, if searched for, some amplifier models that used a "normal" pot and successful "loudness control" circuitry.
If the control is useable, it's always best to stick with it, and perhaps a proper cleaning with Deoxit may bring results.
Apparently, it's become EVIL and a SIN to equip audio devices with such a control.
The eccentric "audiophiles" have generated the ongoing, and very tiring adjenda of insisting that any sort of "tone controls" or sound-shaping (including the natural effects that a Fletcher Munson curve adds) by use of a tapped control is very un-HiFi.
FLAT is how you should listen to your music, because "they" say so. - Audio Snobbery.
To me, a long-time experienced tech, it's just another form of manipulation, like so many other things are these days.
A work-around is required using a "normal" pot, however several additional components are required to achieve a suitable behavior - capacitors, resistors, and some modification of the unit its used in.
There are, if searched for, some amplifier models that used a "normal" pot and successful "loudness control" circuitry.
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Using a pot without the tap would work but the sound and sensitivity of the amplifier would be obviously different.Would I be able to just use a 100k potentiometer and forget about having loudness?
Sad 🙁 I'll see if I can find one that's close to identical if not I'll have to use one without the loudness🙁
Will it be a big difference tho? If not the ill just use a pot that doesn't have a tap however that being I found some with a tap on ali express. Unfortunately they are out of stock 🙁Using a pot without the tap would work but the sound and sensitivity of the amplifier would be obviously different.
You're fresh on here, I take that into consideration.
A mention once of what model amp this is turns up several Pioneer "A-30" versions, making diagnosis confusing.
Perhaps a clear photo of the whole front panel to determine exactly what this unit is, might be helpful.
Additionally, the Service Manual Schematic, particularly of the area in question would help in diagnosis.
Being a long-time professional service technician, I certainly don't prefer going blindly into diagnosis about things.
I'm used to, and just more comfortable just having a unit on my service bench.
You also never gave a reason why the control needs to be changed. - and/or what does it do or not do.
It doesn't appear visually damaged.
And yes, changing anything from an original value will result in substantial difference in operation.
One thing about that Ali express site, and also Epray - it's widely known that stuff from there is of questionable quality.
I only source my parts from reputable respected vendors like Mouser, Newark, Jameco, etc.
I like to "do the job once" and intend it to be successful, because the less time and disturbance inside a unit, the better.
A mention once of what model amp this is turns up several Pioneer "A-30" versions, making diagnosis confusing.
Perhaps a clear photo of the whole front panel to determine exactly what this unit is, might be helpful.
Additionally, the Service Manual Schematic, particularly of the area in question would help in diagnosis.
Being a long-time professional service technician, I certainly don't prefer going blindly into diagnosis about things.
I'm used to, and just more comfortable just having a unit on my service bench.
You also never gave a reason why the control needs to be changed. - and/or what does it do or not do.
It doesn't appear visually damaged.
And yes, changing anything from an original value will result in substantial difference in operation.
One thing about that Ali express site, and also Epray - it's widely known that stuff from there is of questionable quality.
I only source my parts from reputable respected vendors like Mouser, Newark, Jameco, etc.
I like to "do the job once" and intend it to be successful, because the less time and disturbance inside a unit, the better.
You're fresh on here, I take that into consideration.
A mention once of what model amp this is turns up several Pioneer "A-30" versions, making diagnosis confusing.
Perhaps a clear photo of the whole front panel to determine exactly what this unit is, might be helpful.
Additionally, the Service Manual Schematic, particularly of the area in question would help in diagnosis.
Being a long-time professional service technician, I certainly don't prefer going blindly into diagnosis about things.
I'm used to, and just more comfortable just having a unit on my service bench.
You also never gave a reason why the control needs to be changed. - and/or what does it do or not do.
It doesn't appear visually damaged.
And yes, changing anything from an original value will result in substantial difference in operation.
One thing about that Ali express site, and also Epray - it's widely known that stuff from there is of questionable quality.
I only source my parts from reputable respected vendors like Mouser, Newark, Jameco, etc.
I like to "do the job once" and intend it to be successful, because the less time and disturbance inside a unit, the better.
That model A-30 is identical to the SA-740, service manual here. https://elektrotanya.com/pioneer_sa-740_audio_amplifier.pdf/download.html
But you still haven't explained why you think the potentiometer is defective and needing replacement.
If it's just scratchy or intermittent, a quick spray of Deoxit contact cleaner usually cures that problem.
Please explain your needing to go through replacement.
But you still haven't explained why you think the potentiometer is defective and needing replacement.
If it's just scratchy or intermittent, a quick spray of Deoxit contact cleaner usually cures that problem.
Please explain your needing to go through replacement.
I've tried contact cleaner but that didn't helpThat model A-30 is identical to the SA-740, service manual here. https://elektrotanya.com/pioneer_sa-740_audio_amplifier.pdf/download.html
But you still haven't explained why you think the potentiometer is defective and needing replacement.
If it's just scratchy or intermittent, a quick spray of Deoxit contact cleaner usually cures that problem.
Please explain your needing to go through replacement.
Fixed it 😀That model A-30 is identical to the SA-740, service manual here. https://elektrotanya.com/pioneer_sa-740_audio_amplifier.pdf/download.html
But you still haven't explained why you think the potentiometer is defective and needing replacement.
If it's just scratchy or intermittent, a quick spray of Deoxit contact cleaner usually cures that problem.
Please explain your needing to go through replacement.
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