I've had such a great time with these little speakers. Finally finished (the building part) the twin Peerless 8" SLS subwoofers. No joke, this little system has been on every night since I completed them. Twin subs did not hurt this arrangement. Need to lower the stands a tad or build another pair for these speakers.
Are they the 830667 or 830869? And what sort of amp do you have in them? Any dimensions and any build tips for sub? My plan is to put these at either end of a soundbar. Did you follow the plans post earlier in this thread for box design. Did you cross the OB with a cap, if so what size.Sorry for all the questions but I've got the four drivers sitting here and am about to start.
Jim.
Jim.
They look closer than they are and that's a CRT TV. They are @ 22" away from the wall. Sometimes I pull them out further but at night it's just low level anyway and the distance only really seems to make a difference at higher SPL. I wish I could record these to give, at least in essence, of what this sounds like in this room.
They are the 830667 and they are powered by the inuke 3000dsp on the upper shelf.
I could measure the boxes but what I did was, took the sub dimensions from the original (12"H X 12"W X 17"D) and subtracted the amount of space taken by the plate amp since these are passive. I just moved the dimensions around to fit my space but it is the same internal volume.
ETA: It ends up about 1.3cu. ft. of volume without the driver installed.
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Cool!
Well, many of us have a good idea!
Enjoy!
I appreciate the input and efforts here, including these late follow-ups to these posts. This has been a lot of fun. And this from someone with no shortage of other great speakers to listen to.
Sorry I missed part of this post. I got caught up on the subwoofer part with looking up the part#'s.
I scaled the pictures on the internet for the speakers. I used 18mm plywood. I made the boxes 5.5"WX12"H. For the slanted portion of the sealed box, the low point is at the halfway mark O.D. It then raises at 15 degrees to the front. The open sides start at 7/8" reveal from the front baffle, 7/8" down from the roof, 7/8" from the rear, if that makes sense. The portion of the hole that matches the slanted portion is a 1/4" above that roof. From the bottom, the driver centers are roughly; 4.33" and 9.5".
Yes, I used a 20uF cap, the more expensive one. Dayton Audio DMPC-20 20uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor. Part # 027-436.
I didn't select the more expensive cap for any other reason than it was right there, the right uF and the speaker drivers were already cheap enough and figured these speakers may be around awhile so, why not?
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I'm thinking about upgrading this idea, and include a woofer directly in the build.
Using a different shape, and not bother with a crossover for the bottom woofer, instead using a sub amp to drive them separately.
I like the renderings I made.
I think I will slowly build them.
Using a different shape, and not bother with a crossover for the bottom woofer, instead using a sub amp to drive them separately.
I like the renderings I made.
I think I will slowly build them.
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Latest soundbar folks. Design based on a clone of the Nola Brio Trio satellite/sub system. Running as a 1.5 way, simple setup, 2 TC9FDs in parallel with the outer being open baffle with a 22uF cap. Sub is a Dai Chi CS80.
Amp is a TPA 3116 2.1 which drives the sub as well. It could do with a little more juice for extreme volume but it cranks up loud enough for enjoyable music listening and TV/movies. Drivers are yet to break in but it already sounds great. All up about $160 (Aussie that is, you lot in Europe and the USA get stuff way cheaper than we do).
Those TC9FDs are just remarkable little drivers at the money.
Amp is a TPA 3116 2.1 which drives the sub as well. It could do with a little more juice for extreme volume but it cranks up loud enough for enjoyable music listening and TV/movies. Drivers are yet to break in but it already sounds great. All up about $160 (Aussie that is, you lot in Europe and the USA get stuff way cheaper than we do).
Those TC9FDs are just remarkable little drivers at the money.
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I talk to the Brio Trio designer (Carl) quite a bit because I am a proud owner of his reference speaker line. Carl indicated to me that he rejects at least 30% of the drivers he gets for this Brio Trio application. Of course, he won't divulge his qualification standards. I'd guess this is not QA control, but rather the driver does not meet the electrical and acoustical performance requirements for the actual speaker application. Not all batches of drivers perform at the required level. Not to say you can't build a decent replica (as has already been demonstrated by many out there), but there is only one "real" thing (the original design and implementation from the mastermind himself).
You would think that he would have chosen the drivers initially at least, based on their stated TS parameters. From there, I would (perhaps wrongly, albeit logically) think they need to fall decently in that range, for starters, anyway.
I must have gotten lucky with mine. They have been flawless and have been running with no EQ at all lately and very little to start with. Having been used up to 7 hrs/evening since Nov/Dec. I am having a difficult time moving onto my other speakers even when I desire more SPL because of all that these do well.
I have an audio friend (competitive nemesis of sorts), a Klipsch head, and even he concedes that these odd little speakers are undeniable contenders with regard to SQ.
ETA: I have since completed my twin RSS315 sealed subs, based on the volume of Zaph Audio's cabinets for these drivers. Talk about a sweet sounding combo.
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You would think that he would have chosen the drivers initially at least, based on their stated TS parameters. From there, I would (perhaps wrongly, albeit logically) think they need to fall decently in that range, for starters, anyway.
Hi, I don't know the exact details, but I do know the designer mentioned he rejects many of those drivers in his production build. So I take that to mean there is quite a bit of variation (of some parameter that is important) in production drivers.
My mention of this is not to dissuade DIY audio (the point of this thread). I just wanted to bring light to the fact that, there is a little more "know how" going on in the factory than what it may appear on the surface.
Glad to hear you're highly enjoying your pair!
I didn't take it that way, kma123. I am sure that a speaker system that costs as much as the originals do, should be more scrutinized. Especially after looking at their other models.
I appreciate you reporting what you know about the speakers and the designer.
I updated my Nola clones with the B80, and they are very nice! A tad clearer than the TC9.
I'm sure it would add a couple of thousands to the real Nola price tag if they had chosen that driver! ha!
Those RS315 look quite nice.
Well done, MrBoat!
Thank you, Perceval. I'm not a huge fan of subwoofers, or much of their use these days as an overstatement it seems, but these particular Dayton offerings sound quite nice. They are for music only. That TV has not been turned on since 10/16!