Are you planning on adding cabinet corners? Also, did you use any kind of sealer around the handle cutouts? With that rough texture you might get air leaks. I used the same roller on my cubo12s and used black RTV silicone from an auto parts store.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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There is a backer of 3/4" ply that extends to 3/4" from the front of the plenum. Only place it could maybe leak is through the 4 T nuts per handle that go all the way through both layers of ply, I wanted something substantial to hold the handles on since the boxes are kind of heavy. I haven't noticed any leakage and they'll get painted over with the duratex. I suppose some locktite would seal them up good too...
I have two different kinds of corners, one doesn't have a matching style with only two sides for the port, the other does but requires a greater radius on the round over and I already nearly hit the screws with the current round over. So I abandoned the thought of corners.
I'm going to make slip covers from a moving blanket, with cutouts for the handles, to protect them while in transit.
I'm going to make slip covers from a moving blanket, with cutouts for the handles, to protect them while in transit.
You want a tiny bit of leakage to make up for atmospheric changes.
If you don't any change in atmospheric pressure will move cone in or out from it central position.
I always put a jack sock on a plate on the back of my boxes to allow a little air in/out.
By the way thats a nice looking box...
I think I have the same corners, but the radius doesn't match my roundover.
I thought about adding pole sockets, but figured I would probably center array my subs most of the time anyway....
That's only applicable to designs that use the driver in a sealed chamber. In any case, I would strongly suggest NOT doing something like that. There's usually enough leakage through the driver itself to address any changes in atmospheric pressure (which tend not to be sudden anyway, unless you drop the subwoofer from an airplane 🙂).
I'm happy with it so far though I have nothing to compare to at the moment and also have made no effort to measure or tune via DsP. Also have not put near 1200w into them, nor tried both at once yet. One alone will shake my house and **** off the neighbors.....also haven't taken them out of the house yet. I'd like to get out in a field and do some measurements and tuning. I'm also considering building two more in the spring when it warms up a bit.
I haven't noticed any odd rattles or resonances, which is good I was concerned about the Chinese pine plywood I used. Will still try to use something better next time.
I haven't noticed any odd rattles or resonances, which is good I was concerned about the Chinese pine plywood I used. Will still try to use something better next time.
My friend built his with the ports below both woofers, that gets them up a little higher (I like the dustcap for the top woofer to be at 6'6" if possible).
Front, top, and bottom out of 18mm BB, sides and back from 12mm. 2-1/2" wide braces on edge going from top to bottom.
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Got bored this weekend and decided to make some noise.
This is not how I would setup at a show, but it worked for in the house. My intent for a show is the two subs in the center and two EON's per side, side by side on stands.
What is consideredthe acoustical center of this PPSL for time alignment purposes? the center of the cones?
This is not how I would setup at a show, but it worked for in the house. My intent for a show is the two subs in the center and two EON's per side, side by side on stands.
What is consideredthe acoustical center of this PPSL for time alignment purposes? the center of the cones?
Attachments
"Is this waht you mean for the bracing? "
Yes, that's the general idea. Probably want one on the back too. 18mm Top and bottom seen dead enough as is.
"What is consideredthe acoustical center of this PPSL for time alignment purposes? the center of the cones? "
Yes. It's close enough for most tops without needing to use delay.
Yes, that's the general idea. Probably want one on the back too. 18mm Top and bottom seen dead enough as is.
"What is consideredthe acoustical center of this PPSL for time alignment purposes? the center of the cones? "
Yes. It's close enough for most tops without needing to use delay.
Thanks again as always.
Setup sounded quite nice as in the picture, but I need to get out the measurement mic and EQ the tops.
Setup sounded quite nice as in the picture, but I need to get out the measurement mic and EQ the tops.
Having the eons side-by-side will give lots of lobing on the horizontal plane. I'd probably stack them vertically if possible, though if you're putting them on stands that would be difficult.
Chris
Chris
Yes this is true, but I wouldn't feel safe stacking them as in that picture at a show it's not incredibly stable and it points the top unit up toward the ceiling. Also as you said, hard to put on stands.perhaps spacing them out would be better. Smaller rooms only need one pair anyway.
Ultimately they will be replaced by something in a 12" and compression driver for better clarity in the vocal range, quite possibly DJK s box mentioned above, or maybe an RCF or QSC powered box, I quite like RCF for the money.
how much do they weigh? and did you get a chance to measure or compare?
my application is very similar to your and currently looking at subs for my yamaha club tops which i too will sell soon (will keep 2 for small gigs) when i build dual 12" tops.
so my question is - should i build these or look at other options considering that i actually haven't bought any drivers and you were suggested these since you already had 2 drivers suited for this cab.
earlier i was planning to go with 4 18tbx100/18nbx100 (single BR) or 8 3012lf (dual BR).
Hope i'm not hijacking your thread
my application is very similar to your and currently looking at subs for my yamaha club tops which i too will sell soon (will keep 2 for small gigs) when i build dual 12" tops.
so my question is - should i build these or look at other options considering that i actually haven't bought any drivers and you were suggested these since you already had 2 drivers suited for this cab.
earlier i was planning to go with 4 18tbx100/18nbx100 (single BR) or 8 3012lf (dual BR).
Hope i'm not hijacking your thread
How much do the subs weigh? I'm going to guess maybe 60lbs or so, but it don't have any way to actually weigh them at the moment. I can just barely move them around myself without a dolly.
As for what you should build. I don't know. I like these, but 18's should go lower. If the size isn't an issue, or the amplifier power, then some sort of 18 might be a better way to go for deepest bass. I think someone here built an 18" version of this cabinet even. That said I had the drivers already for one cabinet, and ordered drivers for the second after hearing the first. I think I'll build at least two more, the size is about as big as I can move myself and two will fit seize by side in my Van. Both things are important to me as I tend to work alone most of the time.
I have not made measurements yet. It may be another couple months before I can find a good spot outdoors to test them properly, too cold and snowy now.
As for what you should build. I don't know. I like these, but 18's should go lower. If the size isn't an issue, or the amplifier power, then some sort of 18 might be a better way to go for deepest bass. I think someone here built an 18" version of this cabinet even. That said I had the drivers already for one cabinet, and ordered drivers for the second after hearing the first. I think I'll build at least two more, the size is about as big as I can move myself and two will fit seize by side in my Van. Both things are important to me as I tend to work alone most of the time.
I have not made measurements yet. It may be another couple months before I can find a good spot outdoors to test them properly, too cold and snowy now.
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