Not sure what you mean. The crossover is a little cap that is at the end of the positive spade. I'm assuming that is in series?
Also, to prevent this from happening again. Do you recommend I make the setting changes to the amp prior to connecting the tweeters? I believe they blew when I switched from "low" to "flat" to "high" on the amp, as I could hear a loud pop each time.
If the capacitor was inline with either tweeter wire, it was in series. There shouldn't have been anything that you could have done to damage the tweeters.
See also 63.
If there was a loud pop and the tweeters were fragile, that could have blown them. I didn't see that if you posted it earlier.
If there was a loud pop and the tweeters were fragile, that could have blown them. I didn't see that if you posted it earlier.
No I didn't post it earlier. Again, I'm new to all of this so forgive my ignorance. I wasn't aware that could blow a tweeter (or 4). I will be more delicate when setting them up and try not to mess with the amp while they are connected.
Do you have any suggestions of where I should be setting the crossover on the amp? I just kept them in the middle and have all of the channels set to flat.
If the tweeters came with their own crossovers, they don't need anything else.
If the front speakers only have the 6.5s, set the high pass to about 150Hz. The frequency isn't critical but there's no point in sending them signal (power) for frequencies that they cannot reproduce. Higher frequencies will also make them less likely to fail if driven hard.
For the 6x9s, if you don't have a subwoofer, you'll run them full range.
If the front speakers only have the 6.5s, set the high pass to about 150Hz. The frequency isn't critical but there's no point in sending them signal (power) for frequencies that they cannot reproduce. Higher frequencies will also make them less likely to fail if driven hard.
For the 6x9s, if you don't have a subwoofer, you'll run them full range.
Understood, thanks.
The 6.5's on the front are connected directly to the radio amp (Sony AX7000).
When you say full range, do you mean highest frequency?
Full range means passing all frequencies. The crossover will be set to full range or F on this amp.
Glad you got to the bottom of it and don’t stress about it, everyone blew things up when starting out.
You said you “put all crossovers on the middle and flat” does that mean you’re not setting your amplifier gain to match your head unit signal?
You said you “put all crossovers on the middle and flat” does that mean you’re not setting your amplifier gain to match your head unit signal?
Got it. So if its set to "flat", then the hz knob doesn't really matter, right?
Thanks, Lord Flashheart. I watched a few youtube videos on how to set the gains on the amp using a DMM, but to be honest, I didn't really know what I was doing. The video told me how to calculate depending on the watts, but I had a bunch of unanswered questions. I'm still not exactly sure how I should be setting the gains. Whenever I ask buddies, they tell me just to go to distortion then set it back a bit (which I didn't do because I know that's BS).
I played a 4 khz tone while adjusting it, but I wasn't positive that my calculations were correct.
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I am calculating at 4 ohms resistance and 150w per speaker, the voltage should be about 24.5. So, now my question is, what changes now that I added the tweeters?
Your buddies are pretty close, there's no need to make setting gain controls difficult.
First, turn them both all the way down.
Next, using real music, turn up the head unit to about a notch or two before the front speakers distort.
Now, turn one of the gains up until just before that pair of channels distort. Repeat with the other gain. You should consider this setting as max for your system.
At this point, the rears are probably much louder than the fronts. If so, back the gains down a little at a time until the front/rear blend is pleasant for you.
No need for stress.
First, turn them both all the way down.
Next, using real music, turn up the head unit to about a notch or two before the front speakers distort.
Now, turn one of the gains up until just before that pair of channels distort. Repeat with the other gain. You should consider this setting as max for your system.
At this point, the rears are probably much louder than the fronts. If so, back the gains down a little at a time until the front/rear blend is pleasant for you.
No need for stress.
When set to F, the frequency control should do nothing.
Don't stress too much about setting the gains. You want to match the levels of the front/rear to suit your taste and you want to be able to use about 75% of the head units volume control on the music you listen to most of the time. Without using a scope, calculations are basically useless since there are few standards in car amp ratings. You can, however, use voltage settings given by the amp's manufacturer but few are happy with those levels since they prevent driving the amp to clipping (something virtually everyone does).
Don't stress too much about setting the gains. You want to match the levels of the front/rear to suit your taste and you want to be able to use about 75% of the head units volume control on the music you listen to most of the time. Without using a scope, calculations are basically useless since there are few standards in car amp ratings. You can, however, use voltage settings given by the amp's manufacturer but few are happy with those levels since they prevent driving the amp to clipping (something virtually everyone does).
Perfect. Thank you both. I definitely had the amp gains set much higher than my liking based off of the youtube videos. I pretty much couldn't even hear the front speakers and they're facing right at me.
Hey fellas. So my system is working perfectly and I love it. Thanks for all of your help. I’m actually thinking about adding a 12 inch subwoofer and 4 more tweeters. How could I go about doing this? Would I be able to parallel 2 tweeters with 1 6x9? Would the impedance still be okay for the amp?
And in case you’re wondering, I will be ordering a razor tour pack with a 12 inch cutout. The razor packs are pretty thin so not sure if a typical 12 inch magnet would fit. May have to find a thinner one.
And in case you’re wondering, I will be ordering a razor tour pack with a 12 inch cutout. The razor packs are pretty thin so not sure if a typical 12 inch magnet would fit. May have to find a thinner one.