Correct, apparently manufacturers that are posting accurate specs these days are posting the output impedance rather than its DF equivalent favored by the pioneers, which I didn't know till this thread since I quit tubes in '70 for multi-amping Class A/B SS amps.
GM
So I understood the Scott method in order to know the Damping Factor, now my goal is to understand the calculation that you teach me, in order to know the specs on the form of Output Impedance, in fact, I need to understand the math to know the Output Impedance, to apply on the Scott's formula in order to know the Damping Factor.
It's more complex for me I have to say... if you can make a effort in teach me in a more simple way, I really appreciate, many thanks.
It's more complex for me I have to say... if you can make a effort in teach me in a more simple way, I really appreciate, many thanks.
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Right, thanks for your effort in explain me anyway, I feel that I making some progress, the subject is more clarified...
I will dedicated more time now in order to understand the calculatio that you taught me.
Thanks guys!
I will dedicated more time now in order to understand the calculatio that you taught me.
Thanks guys!
Hey DF, meanwhile I do not understand how to apply your formula, in order to know the output impedance of an amp.
Can you try explain me again, how to know if a given damping factor value, or a output impedance value from a amp, is the optimum value for my a full range driver? (can be the Fostex FE208EZ as a example)
What exactly I have to check on the driver's specs?
Many thanks.
Can you try explain me again, how to know if a given damping factor value, or a output impedance value from a amp, is the optimum value for my a full range driver? (can be the Fostex FE208EZ as a example)
What exactly I have to check on the driver's specs?
Many thanks.
Bad choice of words. That is not the output impedance, those are the numbers to help you choose the correct tap for your nominal 4/8/16Ω speakers.
This has already been said many times.
dave
Unfortunately it can be and after much surfing have found that at least some folk's amps listed this way are DF=1 or with multiples, at least one tap is and should be marked, but as I told the OP [hate it when I've no clue what gender/approx. age I'm dealing with], without proper measurements, no way to know who's honest and who's misleading and why my attitude towards tube gear manufacturers today in general is to avoid any that don't publish sufficient info to make an informed choice and others that present it in some non standard format.
GM
GM
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