24v (150w) per driver. and that wasn't max db, it was where I think I'd push the driver to.
I attached the hornresp input page, so you could play with the
Vrc (volume rear chamber , cabinet in liters)
Ap (area port in sq.cm.)
Lpt (length port in cm.)
and figure out exactly what where you want your box tuning. (you may want something higher or lower than I had guesstimated.)
Also, I guesstimated 120 liters, but when you decide exactly how far apart you want your driver manifolds (5.25" maybe?) that will determine your final box volume.
You can see that it is not xmax limited (+-8mm on the 55.2421) above 40hz at 24v. I've had good luck using these drivers in small folded horns for PA, and not had any issues up to about 24v per driver. If' I'm being very careful, I'll limit to 20v. I would not recommend going up to 28v (250w) per driver long term.
have fun playing with hornresp... it's addicting.
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Hi jbell,
Perhaps it is also worth mentioning that the Loudspeaker Wizard tool recently added to Hornresp makes "box tuning" even easier now... and is fun to play with 🙂.
Kind regards,
David
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hey jbell maybe I am dumb but I see the input parameters that you used what other items do I have to input to show the same response chart you have.. Mine is not matching yours.. Thanks for the help
are you using 8 drivers? (aka double click on Nd in 4parallel x 2 serial)
You can always double click on any of the driver fields and it'll prompt you for T/S params so you can easily use any driver.
David has gone out of his way to make this easy to use.... THANKS DAVID.
(and yes, the wizard for loudspeaker, not just tapped horn wizard is really cool.)
You can always double click on any of the driver fields and it'll prompt you for T/S params so you can easily use any driver.
David has gone out of his way to make this easy to use.... THANKS DAVID.
(and yes, the wizard for loudspeaker, not just tapped horn wizard is really cool.)
I might be a little late, but I use a JL 13w7 on a JL 1000.1 v2 in a slot ported box in my Crownline LPX. It does the trick x100. You can hear it in the front when you are going down the lake at 60 and turns heads on the other side of the lake.
the 8 8's wont work.. i only got about 1 inch between the back place and the subs plate.. we need new idea?? how bout 2 of those kicker 12"s or 4 8"s in a th setup like I had the 2 10's let me know thoughts.. the wood is anxiously awaiting to be cut!!
don't understand on the 8 8's... I've got 8 of them, and I mocked it up, should work.
Can you post pic or drawing of what doesn't work?
Can you post pic or drawing of what doesn't work?
Hey Jbell here is the issue I feel I am running into .. The space between the backplate and the subplate is only running roughly 1.5" 's which I thought would not be enough to evenly dispurse the pressure thru- out the box.. I do have about 1 more inch in depth that I could use if this would help bringing the box to 21" in depth.. not sure if you can quick hornresp it and see what that does. let me know if I am just getting worried for nothing or if the extra inch helps.. Thanks
I think it will be fine. I just remeasured a 55-2421, and you can easily put it in 8.25" which would leave you 2" (which is how I figured it when I originally sketched this)
Hornresp doesn't really have a good way to model cabinet restrictions like this, it's an akabak thing. I don't think it's anything to be worried about as a 2"x9" area should keep air speeds low enough. If you really have an extra inch -- use it. Going from 2x9 to 3x9 is 50% more area, and some peace of mind.
car (and boat) audio is many times a battle over a 1/4" I know....
Hornresp doesn't really have a good way to model cabinet restrictions like this, it's an akabak thing. I don't think it's anything to be worried about as a 2"x9" area should keep air speeds low enough. If you really have an extra inch -- use it. Going from 2x9 to 3x9 is 50% more area, and some peace of mind.
car (and boat) audio is many times a battle over a 1/4" I know....
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stealth TH installed
so I decided that the stealth box was enough for now.. I will continue to mess around with Hornresp and configurations until I find a combination that seems significantly better but for now this box rocks and people can't figure out where my subs are.. Check these pics!!!
so I decided that the stealth box was enough for now.. I will continue to mess around with Hornresp and configurations until I find a combination that seems significantly better but for now this box rocks and people can't figure out where my subs are.. Check these pics!!!
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Hey Jbell can you quick tell me the dimensions of this box ? I think I have it right in my head but I rather have a pro confirm this before I start hacking up $40 pieces of wood.. THanks
kicker cvr 07104
here is the link
http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/CVR_0.pdf
help me if I am wrong thanks
here is the link
http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/files/CVR_0.pdf
help me if I am wrong thanks
I was not thinking of the DVC, so the LE looked high to me. Here are the corrected inputs for 2 woofers wired as a 4Ω nominal load.
Hint: Start by entering SD and double click in Cms, Mmd, Bl, Rms, and answer the questions to enter the parameters.
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Justint!
That is one sick wakeboarding boat! Love the Supras. My bro has an Mastercraft Mirstar 260.. (Nice one also!) Hoe many months of lake weather do you get up in Wisconsin?
I am down on lake norman in NC.
That is one sick wakeboarding boat! Love the Supras. My bro has an Mastercraft Mirstar 260.. (Nice one also!) Hoe many months of lake weather do you get up in Wisconsin?
I am down on lake norman in NC.
hey illtww. we get bout 6 months a year right now.. WE have already been out on the water about 6 times.. nice area.. that you live in ... shoot me pics of any sweet boats u got we got a crew of 6 tricked out wakeboard boats up here.
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