If I recall, it is very close to the JBL driver. It was in the loop when the horn was designed.
?
Are you looking for a small production run or something? I thought you were just looking for two to replace your blown ones.
No production run but I'd like to be able to replace the drivers if they suffer the same fate. Can't do that with the Infinity's unfortunately. Plus if the Infinity subs are essentially the same sub as the JBL it would likely fail the same way. It was mechanical failure and not an electrical failure that killed them, coils still measure as fine, the former just de-laminated from the cone assembly. So that's why I passed on your offer.
Cheers
No, no, no ! you killed them because you forgot that a subwoofer speaker designed for use inside a car cannot meet the same requirements as a subwoofer designed to work in open spaces.
The proof is that the glue did not resist mechanical stress.
So I in your lugar would study your horn design a bit and find out which subwoofer designed for PA meets the strength and performance requirements.
You can take a pleasant surprise, but don't thank me .....🙁
Wrong, but thanks for trying to help out, I appreciate your opinion. 600W and an 8hz rumble from my turntable because I forgot to put the rumble filter back on is what killed them. Slamming the former off the back plate several times in a row will separate the voice coil former from the cone assembly quite effectively. Lets just say this isn't my first rodeo 😉 . I'm way ahead of you and your suggestion, but thanks for the input regardless.
It can be both - I know about some PA speakers fatalities where glue did not hold. If there are severe mechanical stresses, something will go, sooner or later. It is true that many speaker manufacturers design their speakers that these cannot bottom out, but it doesn´t mean you cannot harm these.
So, they were killed due to operator error then? 🙂
Make sure that the rumble filter is on, and the replacement woofers won't suffer from the same fate.
Yeah, 8Hz at full power will definitely result in mechanical damage.
You don't know that VLF feedback is happening until the woofers are under considerable stress, and then it's too late.
Chris
You don't know that VLF feedback is happening until the woofers are under considerable stress, and then it's too late.
Chris
At last you have understood, although a little forced. Likewise, I do not think it is important to be in front of me on this issue or in any other, (although I think you could be in the handling of soft, I am from the time when I no there were computer designs and so and everything was never wrong in the match power amplifier vs. speaker)
" Politeness, does not remove the brave "
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Yes, 1260w is single 4ohm voicecoil, 1262w is the dual 4 ohm coil version.
Similar to
JBL GTO 1204 / 1264 - single 4 ohm (specs are hard to find)
JBL GTO 1204d - dual 4 ohm
JBL GTO 1202d - dual 2 ohm
All can be used to replace the GTO 1214 but all are out of production, so look for them used.
If you buy used; measure coil impedance and push the driver in to check for coil rub and you are pretty sure they are ok. Even better is to also listen to them before you buy.
I have 4x GTO 1204's; for home use I like them best sealed in about 50 liter boxes. I compared them to lab12's in 25 and 50 liter sealed boxes; sound is very similar, biggest differences are double the weight and 5 times the price. (bought used)
Fun with a dual coil driver for mobile (battery powered) use:
A dual coil can be driven by a separate amp for each coil. I have a 1202D driven by a 2 channel BTL tpa3251 @ 2 instead of 3 ohm feeding it about 400w clean. Before it was powered by 2x tpa3116 in pbtl which gave it about 200w clean.