pinkmouse said:
That's curious because for use in a router table, a fixed base is infinitely easier than a plunge base. With the Porter Cable, for instance, the fixed base can be adjusted with almost micrometer precision. Try that with the plunge base..with all those springs acting against you...forget it!
You could spend another million dollars for one of those "Routr-Raizer" adjustment thingys, but I'll stick with a fixed base for under-table use, thank you.
Doug
indespensible for me - http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=13110&ts=69735
that one isn't the best, unfortunately i can't find the one i use but it also bores out the hole for the shaft as well
two drills, one with this and a cordless with a screwdriver bit and you're laughing
that one isn't the best, unfortunately i can't find the one i use but it also bores out the hole for the shaft as well
two drills, one with this and a cordless with a screwdriver bit and you're laughing
I really liked the stock of sharp pencils suggestion. I found a Boston electric pencil sharpener at a thrift store the other day and gathered fifty or so scrap pencils from junk deposits around the house and shop and sharpened them all. Put em all in one bin. Wonder how ever I got by before this. I still can never figure out where the hell I laid down the last one, but half a dozen fresh ones later they get pretty easy to spot.
Good thread. Here's a little addition. I didn't really want to plumb my whole shop for dust collection, so I got a decent Ridgid shop vac and use it on the collection points of my tools as I need to. I replaced the filter with a homemede fine hardware screen version and run the exhaust out of the shop window. The finest dust just goes through the fan into the backyard and the filter never clogs or restricts airflow.
Another nice thing about exhausting it outside is when I need to use it as a fume exhaust. I can hang the hose near the soldering if things get smokey. I've got an open front box on one bench with a vacuum port out the back. When I need to paint small to medium sized things with a rattle can, I hook up the shop vac and spray away without even needing a mask. I've used the vac this way pretty heavily for five years. I took the motor apart recently to check the brushes and discovered the fan and brushes in perfect condition. I was very impressed.
When I empty the vac, I just brush off the mesh filter and start new. If you've got a window to run the exhaust out of you should never buy another filter again.
Good thread. Here's a little addition. I didn't really want to plumb my whole shop for dust collection, so I got a decent Ridgid shop vac and use it on the collection points of my tools as I need to. I replaced the filter with a homemede fine hardware screen version and run the exhaust out of the shop window. The finest dust just goes through the fan into the backyard and the filter never clogs or restricts airflow.
Another nice thing about exhausting it outside is when I need to use it as a fume exhaust. I can hang the hose near the soldering if things get smokey. I've got an open front box on one bench with a vacuum port out the back. When I need to paint small to medium sized things with a rattle can, I hook up the shop vac and spray away without even needing a mask. I've used the vac this way pretty heavily for five years. I took the motor apart recently to check the brushes and discovered the fan and brushes in perfect condition. I was very impressed.
When I empty the vac, I just brush off the mesh filter and start new. If you've got a window to run the exhaust out of you should never buy another filter again.
Nice thread, but I'm still missing one tool I can't do without.
After you've build a nice cabinet, you would have to create a crossover and connect your speakers to it. A soldering iron would be pretty handy there!
Ciao
After you've build a nice cabinet, you would have to create a crossover and connect your speakers to it. A soldering iron would be pretty handy there!
Ciao
Hot air gun with a heat shrink attachment and decent supply of tube. A small variety of attachments is nice - large for big shrink tube and bending plastic tubes, and a smaller attachment for shielding other components when using shrink tube in close quarters.
A good hot air gun is also handy for certain solder jobs where you need to heat a large area with clean heat.
A good hot air gun is also handy for certain solder jobs where you need to heat a large area with clean heat.
It's been said plenty and sorry for repeating it, but the router is just so easy to praise with regards to cabinet building.
The router is king because you can:
- Cut your wood panels to size with a guide
- Create the driver rebate with a simple DIY circle jig...
- ...then cut the driver cutout
- Cut a chamfer on the rear of the driver cutout
- Flush trim the panels after they're joined for perfect edges
- Then finish by rounding over the baffle edges
If I was allowed only one power tool for cabinet production, it would be the router.
The other tools I'm partial to:
- Drill press (my second favourite tool)
- Table saw (to cut aluminium sheet as well)
- Assorted Clamps (you will never, ever have enough of these)
- Vernier Caliper
- Center punch
- Square
- Metal ruler
- Decent rubber sanding block
The tools most unused in my garage:
- Jigsaw
- Belt sander
- Oribtal Sander (unless very large surface areas)
- Scroll saw
I always ensure I have plentiful supply of latex gloves, dust masks, eye protecion and ear muffs, and would encourage the same. A good vacuum dedicated for sawdust is also handy.
Finally, with all tool related subjects someone should mention "measure twice, cut once" unless you like to age rapidly, swear profusely, and become generally illtempered.
Oh, and although not a direct tool, a digital camera can be useful to share your work, and ask questions with 😉
The router is king because you can:
- Cut your wood panels to size with a guide
- Create the driver rebate with a simple DIY circle jig...
- ...then cut the driver cutout
- Cut a chamfer on the rear of the driver cutout
- Flush trim the panels after they're joined for perfect edges
- Then finish by rounding over the baffle edges
If I was allowed only one power tool for cabinet production, it would be the router.
The other tools I'm partial to:
- Drill press (my second favourite tool)
- Table saw (to cut aluminium sheet as well)
- Assorted Clamps (you will never, ever have enough of these)
- Vernier Caliper
- Center punch
- Square
- Metal ruler
- Decent rubber sanding block
The tools most unused in my garage:
- Jigsaw
- Belt sander
- Oribtal Sander (unless very large surface areas)
- Scroll saw
I always ensure I have plentiful supply of latex gloves, dust masks, eye protecion and ear muffs, and would encourage the same. A good vacuum dedicated for sawdust is also handy.
Finally, with all tool related subjects someone should mention "measure twice, cut once" unless you like to age rapidly, swear profusely, and become generally illtempered.
Oh, and although not a direct tool, a digital camera can be useful to share your work, and ask questions with 😉
You can check the older thread here, for some more specific tools: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3981&highlight=
The first one I list there is almost neccessary for soldering.
The first one I list there is almost neccessary for soldering.
If all you need to do is rip sheets of plywood or MDF into panels, something like the EZ Smart guide would be great. I wanted a little more versatility, so I use a cheap circular saw and shop made saw boards to break down big sheets, then trim to final size on a Ryobi BT3100 table saw:
Probably the only reasonably cheap table saw that has a fan site and a devoted cult-like following. It's surprisingly accurate, and the sliding miter table makes handling large pieces much easier. It can handle a 30" rip width. Available at Home Depot (about $250) or at Sears, who sell a Craftsman branded version. Rumor has it that it may be discontinued soon, but they're not hard to find used, and spare parts and accessories are plentiful on ebay .
I've also got a miter saw and a small radal arm saw, but if I could only keep one the table saw would be it. Sorry for the lengthy plug, no financial interest on my part, just a happy user.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Probably the only reasonably cheap table saw that has a fan site and a devoted cult-like following. It's surprisingly accurate, and the sliding miter table makes handling large pieces much easier. It can handle a 30" rip width. Available at Home Depot (about $250) or at Sears, who sell a Craftsman branded version. Rumor has it that it may be discontinued soon, but they're not hard to find used, and spare parts and accessories are plentiful on ebay .
I've also got a miter saw and a small radal arm saw, but if I could only keep one the table saw would be it. Sorry for the lengthy plug, no financial interest on my part, just a happy user.
tools - necessary
A leaf...
A stone...
The plastic fragment of a childs toy...
http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=old+tools&sa=N&tab=wi
after that--
Brainstorm
On the album anyway...
A leaf...
A stone...
The plastic fragment of a childs toy...
http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=old+tools&sa=N&tab=wi
after that--
Brainstorm
On the album anyway...
I would consider a table saw a must have tool for a shop. However the festool system does many things a table saw will, with the same accuracy and is much harder to hurt yourself with🙂 After a long time building houses I have seen to many people get hurt with a table saw. I love them but try not to use them unless I have to.
When I first joined the forum I asked a similar question and ended up buying a Ryobi BT3100 and the Porter Cable router with 2 bases.
Now that I have owned them for about 1.5 years I would say that I like my desicion, but I could have done better.
I use my router a lot, but only the plunge base, never the fixed base. Remember, quality bits, 1/2" chuck is best.
I love the BT3100, but I have found that many accesories do not work on the Ryobi. For that reason I think that an inexpensive Delta would have been a better purchase though.
Good Luck,
Josh
Now that I have owned them for about 1.5 years I would say that I like my desicion, but I could have done better.
I use my router a lot, but only the plunge base, never the fixed base. Remember, quality bits, 1/2" chuck is best.
I love the BT3100, but I have found that many accesories do not work on the Ryobi. For that reason I think that an inexpensive Delta would have been a better purchase though.
Good Luck,
Josh
edjosh23 said:
Josh- Try mounting the fixed base in a DIY router table. Google is your friend. A router table increases the flexibility of the tool dramatically.
I originally tried to attach the router to the BT3100, but I tried to rig it..... basically things didn't work so well.
One of my friends Dads has been doing wood work for years. Basically every piece of funature in their house, he build. I used to go over there so he could teach me a little and he built his router table, and he uses a plunge base router for his router table.
One of my friends Dads has been doing wood work for years. Basically every piece of funature in their house, he build. I used to go over there so he could teach me a little and he built his router table, and he uses a plunge base router for his router table.
badman said:
I whole-heartedly agree -- and it makes it safer as well --
speaking of safety -- did anyone mention safety goggles and a fire extinguisher?
Does anyone have experience using a benchtop drill press.....in particular....one of the made in China units?
I have a Delta benchtop drill press, probably made in China given the price. It has been very useful, and seems accurate enough for my purposes.
There have been a few times when I wished for more reach - it is a 10" press, meaning the center of the hole can be no more than 5" from the edge. A 12 or 14 would be more flexible.
The other advantage that larger presses sometimes have is their depth stops are easier to use.
Yes, it could have more power, but a buying full size drill press is near the bottom of my priority list.
There have been a few times when I wished for more reach - it is a 10" press, meaning the center of the hole can be no more than 5" from the edge. A 12 or 14 would be more flexible.
The other advantage that larger presses sometimes have is their depth stops are easier to use.
Yes, it could have more power, but a buying full size drill press is near the bottom of my priority list.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.