1545v $209 - $50 MIR at Staples
For those who are interested in NEC 1545v, Staples has it on clearance for $239.90. use $30 off $150 coupon (search in fatwallet.com, hotdeal forum), you can have it for ~$210 with $50 rebate. now you have some extra money for lens and other stuff.
For those who are interested in NEC 1545v, Staples has it on clearance for $239.90. use $30 off $150 coupon (search in fatwallet.com, hotdeal forum), you can have it for ~$210 with $50 rebate. now you have some extra money for lens and other stuff.
I got mine at Fry's for $299 - a $50 rebate, if anyone can't get one at Staples (and lives in Southern California).
So cruser, you what your saying is that you ordered that 14"x14" lens and it's only 12.25x12.25? That's BS. The thing says its 14x14. I'm a bit confused.
lifter
yep i emailed alan at diy labs he told me it was a double fresnel and it had a focal length of 14", now im no expert on lenses
so i assumed it was 14 inches wide, so i ordered one
after i placed the order i got another email that said the lens was 12.25" wide, thats what the elmo lens is
so i will now have 3 12.25" fresnels
although i sent him another email and he stated it would work with a 15" lcd , but i already knew that cause the one from my elmo works
i just wanted to get a 14" fresnel so maby i could try a 17" monitor in a custom box
thats ok though this is just my first stab at a diy projector
im gonna try other 15" monitors so i guess i will need the fresnels anyway
next one im thinking of is the princeton graphics senergy 561
i know its only 262,000 colors but i have to see it first.
yep i emailed alan at diy labs he told me it was a double fresnel and it had a focal length of 14", now im no expert on lenses
so i assumed it was 14 inches wide, so i ordered one
after i placed the order i got another email that said the lens was 12.25" wide, thats what the elmo lens is
so i will now have 3 12.25" fresnels
although i sent him another email and he stated it would work with a 15" lcd , but i already knew that cause the one from my elmo works
i just wanted to get a 14" fresnel so maby i could try a 17" monitor in a custom box
thats ok though this is just my first stab at a diy projector
im gonna try other 15" monitors so i guess i will need the fresnels anyway
next one im thinking of is the princeton graphics senergy 561
i know its only 262,000 colors but i have to see it first.
Cruser,
check out the samsung LCDs specially the 152t, samsungs supposedly have the best LCDs on the market rite now.
check out the samsung LCDs specially the 152t, samsungs supposedly have the best LCDs on the market rite now.
AJ
funny u should mention that i was gonna get that monitor before i heard this one was so easy to take apart so i decided to get my feet wet and jumped on the lcd1545v
i looked at that monitor in compusa and i was not impressed
enough to get it over the lcd1545v
i wanted to get something with a higher res but its damn hard to find a 15" above 1024x768 becides a laptop pannel but i need a controler then
thats why i want to see firsthand the princeton monitor it will scale up to 1600x1200 but i have to see it
has anyone seen this monitor with their own eyes? -->princeton senergy 561
funny u should mention that i was gonna get that monitor before i heard this one was so easy to take apart so i decided to get my feet wet and jumped on the lcd1545v
i looked at that monitor in compusa and i was not impressed
enough to get it over the lcd1545v
i wanted to get something with a higher res but its damn hard to find a 15" above 1024x768 becides a laptop pannel but i need a controler then
thats why i want to see firsthand the princeton monitor it will scale up to 1600x1200 but i have to see it
has anyone seen this monitor with their own eyes? -->princeton senergy 561
cruser said:
Ok, I get it. What it means by "14 inch focal length" is that it needs to be 14" away from the projection lens.
I looked at a Princeton senergy that supported UXGA. I almost jumped the gun and bought it, until someone here pointed out that it was only XGA native and it could scale to UXGA. 262K is not very good at all. I'd avoid it. I think the NEC is the best out there because it's contrast ratio is very good and it comes apart so easily. After I get this setup, I'm going to eventually use a Dell Inspiron UXGA panel w/ a 400:1 CR. That will be nice.
Oh yeah, just cause the Princeton can scale up to UXGA isn't anything special. The native res is what counts. I guess it's useful for games, since you "fill more" on the screen, but the screen door effect is going to be the same as the NEC, and you won't get true (or near true I should say) high def. I'm just keeping my eyes peeled for controllers. There are plenty available for reasonable money, just not ones that support UXGA. Worse case scenario is that I have to buy the Digitalview one for $680. I know it's a fortune, but it will give me a high-definition projector and is worth it once I have the extra dough.
that sounds sweet keep me informed on the controler hunt thats the route im gonna go
have u seen any uxga pannels out there?
and now i get the focal length thing = distance from the light
have u seen any uxga pannels out there?
and now i get the focal length thing = distance from the light
There are 15" UXGA panels on ebay all the time. They're for Dell Inspirons. Problem is that they have a 200:1 CR. New Dell Inpirons can come w/ the "Ultrasharp" UXGA laptop panels. IBM's have somethign they call "Flexview". Toshiba also has one. They're all 400:1 CR UXGA panels.
have you noticed if the h/v boards are gonna be a problem on any of those pannels?
you know with the ribbon cables .
you know with the ribbon cables .
Yes, they definately won't be as easy as this NEC we're talking about. But it'd be worth it. All it takes is a lot of time and patience. There are many ways to lengthen those cables, and there are even places to buy longer ones. I don't buy into the "too long" theory at all. I think people who've had those problems have already put too much wear on the boards. All it takes is a multimeter to check for any resistance.
hey lifter did you get your fresnel yet?
inventory solutions sent the replacement fresnel i recieved it today and its brand new and free shipping !!
awesome place to deal with !!!!
to all ppl buying on ebay ... inventory solutions inc will stand behind their sales 100%
inventory solutions sent the replacement fresnel i recieved it today and its brand new and free shipping !!
awesome place to deal with !!!!
to all ppl buying on ebay ... inventory solutions inc will stand behind their sales 100%
I'm noticing a lot of people using lcd monitors. Is this a better solution to using a laptop lcd panel and controller?
No. Controller cards are around $200 a piece. that would be more expansive. but, on the other hand, you can use UXGA panels from Dell, etc...
Hmmmm. As I live in Australia the cheapest lcd monitor I've found is about $540AUD ($318USD) 🙁
So what in the long run would be cheaper and better? Getting a monitor or using a laptop lcd and controller? I would need to extend the cable between the lcd and controller about 12ft (the longer the better however... I could put the computer next to the projector actually, but that's a last resort) though, as my computer needs to be at my desk, which is under where the screen will be. This is the best layout I have found in my room for everything. I would prefer the best res I could get, but 1024x768 is sufficient.
What do you think? If I could get a controller and lcd for less than $318USD, or even a bit more since I was considering a more expensive monitor, and it would not cost much to extend (plus works with Windows Xp) than I'd prefer that. I wouldn't have trouble fitting it on the OHP then either.
What do you think? Also, do you have any links to controllers?
Thanks a lot.
So what in the long run would be cheaper and better? Getting a monitor or using a laptop lcd and controller? I would need to extend the cable between the lcd and controller about 12ft (the longer the better however... I could put the computer next to the projector actually, but that's a last resort) though, as my computer needs to be at my desk, which is under where the screen will be. This is the best layout I have found in my room for everything. I would prefer the best res I could get, but 1024x768 is sufficient.
What do you think? If I could get a controller and lcd for less than $318USD, or even a bit more since I was considering a more expensive monitor, and it would not cost much to extend (plus works with Windows Xp) than I'd prefer that. I wouldn't have trouble fitting it on the OHP then either.
What do you think? Also, do you have any links to controllers?
Thanks a lot.
hi morien
the cheapest way to go would be a lcd monitor.aprox $200 or more
the best way to go would be a laptop lcd and controller.$????
a good laptop pannel with hi res and awesome contrast ratio is gonna be at least $400 and then you need a controller.
it all depends what you are looking to get out of your projector
if 1024X768 is good enough then the lcd monitor is your best bet
if your looking for hi res then your only option is laptop lcd and controller
the cheapest way to go would be a lcd monitor.aprox $200 or more
the best way to go would be a laptop lcd and controller.$????
a good laptop pannel with hi res and awesome contrast ratio is gonna be at least $400 and then you need a controller.
it all depends what you are looking to get out of your projector
if 1024X768 is good enough then the lcd monitor is your best bet
if your looking for hi res then your only option is laptop lcd and controller
Hey cruser, thanks a lot for posting your pics, etc. It really gave me the confidence to get this thing to work. I bought another NEC 1545 (got it for $230 after rebate via Circuit City's price match plus). After making all the preperations w/ a dremel, a saw, my drill, some plywood, and a hell of a lot of black tape and spray paint, I made a cozy little space for the panel to fit on perfectly. Using the broken panel as a template helped a LOT. Now, I have NO problems w/ it. It works beautifully. I can knock it, bump it, whatever, and it doesn't so much as flicker (the old one would cut out if I blew on it). The image is WONDERFUL. It's brighter than I could ever need, and when slightly out of focus, there is no screen-door effect. Looks like I'm watching film (including dirt and dust- I'll get to that later).
I didn't get my fresnel yet. I used my dremel and cut down the metal clips that hold in the original fresnel. When I shrink the H size, I get about 99% of it on there. I'm playing around w/ a program called "power strip". It lets you customize your screen size with a LOT of options. But the panel doesn't always like what you set and can freak out. I'm trying to shrink the H a little and the V a lot. What would be ideal is a program that could give you a custom, lower resolution, while drawing black borders so your panel thinks it's the full thing. I don't have a clue how to search for this on Google, so if anyone knows of one, please let me know. My image is way too big (but I can live w/ it for now), and I want a widescreen aspect ratio. I may just try and make an anamorphic lens.
Quick question. I saw that you cut little notches in the bigger fresnel to get it to fit, but how did you secure it in there? It would make my life a lot easier if I didn't have to shrink the H size as much. Other dilemas:
1) Fan noise vs. heat. I hooked up a fan to blow on top of the screen, and a "blow hole" next to the projection lens. WAY too loud. I think I'm going to remove the mirror and mount the OHP on it's side (a la YWH). That way, heat will rise out the vents instead of through the panel- so I won't need the extra fans.
2) Dust. What a pain. I'll figure this one out.
3) Fresnel problems:
a) the circular lines are visable in bright colors when it's pefectly in focus. This isn't a major problem because I think movies look A LOT better when it's ever-so-slightly out of foucus. It looks softer- more like film. But w/ games, TV, etc. I'd prefer a sharper image. I guess that's the one and only downside to using an OHP projector.
b) The fresnel took some abuse because I didn't mount it properly. I bent around a little, etc. It may even be warped from the heat. I'm not really sure. All I do know is that there are "hot spots" coming from some of the "rings". Thjs was not there before I modded the thing. I don't know if it's scratched, warped, or just out of place, but it's there and it's annoying. When I get my new fresnel, I plan to be VERY careful w/ it.
Sorry for the long post, but I've had a busy weekend as you can tell. Stupidly, I was too caught up to take pictures, but I'll try and do so soon.
4) The screen I made last week is way too small. Thie image covers the whole wall at the distance I reqire. My original plan was to have it on the floor and facing upwards, but the keystoning is just to bad, so I need it elevated behind my couch. Maybe I can find a place that sells larger spools of blackout cloth.
I didn't get my fresnel yet. I used my dremel and cut down the metal clips that hold in the original fresnel. When I shrink the H size, I get about 99% of it on there. I'm playing around w/ a program called "power strip". It lets you customize your screen size with a LOT of options. But the panel doesn't always like what you set and can freak out. I'm trying to shrink the H a little and the V a lot. What would be ideal is a program that could give you a custom, lower resolution, while drawing black borders so your panel thinks it's the full thing. I don't have a clue how to search for this on Google, so if anyone knows of one, please let me know. My image is way too big (but I can live w/ it for now), and I want a widescreen aspect ratio. I may just try and make an anamorphic lens.
Quick question. I saw that you cut little notches in the bigger fresnel to get it to fit, but how did you secure it in there? It would make my life a lot easier if I didn't have to shrink the H size as much. Other dilemas:
1) Fan noise vs. heat. I hooked up a fan to blow on top of the screen, and a "blow hole" next to the projection lens. WAY too loud. I think I'm going to remove the mirror and mount the OHP on it's side (a la YWH). That way, heat will rise out the vents instead of through the panel- so I won't need the extra fans.
2) Dust. What a pain. I'll figure this one out.
3) Fresnel problems:
a) the circular lines are visable in bright colors when it's pefectly in focus. This isn't a major problem because I think movies look A LOT better when it's ever-so-slightly out of foucus. It looks softer- more like film. But w/ games, TV, etc. I'd prefer a sharper image. I guess that's the one and only downside to using an OHP projector.
b) The fresnel took some abuse because I didn't mount it properly. I bent around a little, etc. It may even be warped from the heat. I'm not really sure. All I do know is that there are "hot spots" coming from some of the "rings". Thjs was not there before I modded the thing. I don't know if it's scratched, warped, or just out of place, but it's there and it's annoying. When I get my new fresnel, I plan to be VERY careful w/ it.
Sorry for the long post, but I've had a busy weekend as you can tell. Stupidly, I was too caught up to take pictures, but I'll try and do so soon.
4) The screen I made last week is way too small. Thie image covers the whole wall at the distance I reqire. My original plan was to have it on the floor and facing upwards, but the keystoning is just to bad, so I need it elevated behind my couch. Maybe I can find a place that sells larger spools of blackout cloth.
This is to Lifter and Cruser,
In the MbayAQ Thread he is useing the ( I-O Data A15V )
and the second picture gives a really good look at the panel taken apart.
From what you (Lifter & Cruser) see, what do you think about that monitor?
Are there fewer connection's to break, compared to the 1545v?
I'm going with the NEC or I-O , which ever one give's me the best chance not to brake it.
From what I see there's the connection at the long thin green PCB above the panel and that (brown plastic looking) cable to the second PCB bord.
Does that brown plastic one look really fragile to you? but I guess there Both really fragile...
I know your hand's on is with the 1545v, but from what you see what do you think of the I-O monitor?
In the MbayAQ Thread he is useing the ( I-O Data A15V )
and the second picture gives a really good look at the panel taken apart.
From what you (Lifter & Cruser) see, what do you think about that monitor?
Are there fewer connection's to break, compared to the 1545v?
I'm going with the NEC or I-O , which ever one give's me the best chance not to brake it.
From what I see there's the connection at the long thin green PCB above the panel and that (brown plastic looking) cable to the second PCB bord.
Does that brown plastic one look really fragile to you? but I guess there Both really fragile...
I know your hand's on is with the 1545v, but from what you see what do you think of the I-O monitor?
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