NaO Note II RS

Nao Note II rs are again fof salle. Now rear tweeter included and mounthed. Price without woofers is 400eur, price with woofers is 600eurs.

Shiping in europe countries is from 100eurs to 150eurs.

My room is to small for this speakers, i have to invest 5.000eur to make my room not boomy at all, so i will reather make smaller speakers.
 
It's easy. You cut a 1 1/8"" diameter hole for the tweeter then use a 1/2" round over bit in a router to create the wave guide. But CNC baffle are available. If you go to my web site I can give you the person to contact. But to buy the CNC baffles you must first buy the plans. Otherwise you will not be able to buy the baffles.
 
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Thanks for the quick response. That's easy enough.

John, did I read that your personal woofer preference is for the XLS? I couldn't relocate that post? If so, please repeat why.

If I wanted to augment that bass with my powered subwoofers, as you suggest, especially when using the SLS woofers, how do you do that? Is it simply blending the subwoofers as with a passive speaker system or are there changes in the NaO's crossover?

Josh
 
John: I found your comment on your use of the XLS woofer, so no need to respond on that.

I am currently using the XLS woofer in my system. If you use either please contact me for the proper miniDSP configuration file as there are differences between the configuration for the SLS and XLS woofers. There is no doubt that when built with XSL or XXLS woofer the system is better than with the SLS woofers, but when the additional cost is considered the difference probably isn't worth it to most builders.

I still, though, would like to know about your recommendations for how to blend a powered subwoofer with the NaO.

Thanks.

Josh
 
Rather a late response, but if you have the option on the XLS drivers, John is able to provide configuration files for those in a U-frame, similar to the current NaO II setup, for the NaO Note II RS. Depending on how much output you need, using this variant may negate the need for separate subs.
 
Thanks for the quick response. That's easy enough.

John, did I read that your personal woofer preference is for the XLS? I couldn't relocate that post? If so, please repeat why.

If I wanted to augment that bass with my powered subwoofers, as you suggest, especially when using the SLS woofers, how do you do that? Is it simply blending the subwoofers as with a passive speaker system or are there changes in the NaO's crossover?

Josh

Sorry I didn't see this before today. I designed the system for the SLS woofers. I provide the XLS/XXLS options for those who want a little more bass w/o adding a sub, and because I had the XLS woofer in hand. Additionally, some builders had the XLS subs around from previous Orion builds and wanted to use them.

Adding a sub is a more cost effective way to go though. To do that correctly you need to use two of the Input PEQ stages in Biquad mode to form a 4th order high pass filter at the desired crossover frequency. I would suggest 50-60 Hz. This assumes the sub has its own built on LP filter and delay control which would be used to "tune" the integration of the sub(s). For details contact me by email.
 
Rather a late response, but if you have the option on the XLS drivers, John is able to provide configuration files for those in a U-frame, similar to the current NaO II setup, for the NaO Note II RS. Depending on how much output you need, using this variant may negate the need for separate subs.

Sorry I didn't see this before today. I designed the system for the SLS woofers. I provide the XLS/XXLS options for those who want a little more bass w/o adding a sub, and because I had the XLS woofer in hand. Additionally, some builders had the XLS subs around from previous Orion builds and wanted to use them.

Adding a sub is a more cost effective way to go though. To do that correctly you need to use two of the Input PEQ stages in Biquad mode to form a 4th order high pass filter at the desired crossover frequency. I would suggest 50-60 Hz. This assumes the sub has its own built on LP filter and delay control which would be used to "tune" the integration of the sub(s). For details contact me by email.

I am doing a build with the XLS option, so will see what the bass is like. Chose the XLS just to not have regrets.

I also already have the baffles cutout for the W or V version (not sure the correct terminology), so no U.

I already have two powered JL Audio subwoofers, so there is no additional expense, only effort. I will email John when I am ready for the powered subwoofer integration.

Thanks for your responses.

Josh
 
Sorry I didn't see this before today. I designed the system for the SLS woofers. I provide the XLS/XXLS options for those who want a little more bass w/o adding a sub, and because I had the XLS woofer in hand. Additionally, some builders had the XLS subs around from previous Orion builds and wanted to use them.

Adding a sub is a more cost effective way to go though. To do that correctly you need to use two of the Input PEQ stages in Biquad mode to form a 4th order high pass filter at the desired crossover frequency. I would suggest 50-60 Hz. This assumes the sub has its own built on LP filter and delay control which would be used to "tune" the integration of the sub(s). For details contact me by email.

Hi John,

Given I have the XLS woofers (as perversely they were cheaper in the UK at the time than the SLS) am I to understand that I could build them with a U-frame to arrive at a cardioid response? I'm under the impression that for a bit of rock that they punch a little harder* than dipoles - or am I mistaken?

I see some notes about efficiency on another thread but I'm not clear whether the excursion limited SPL is greater than a dipole. I have some 400W Hypex modules so power isn't an issue.

Thanks,

Tom

*'pressurise the room'
 
I wonder if the Alpine SWS-10D2 (or SWS-10D4) would be a strict upgrade from the SLS woofers, at basically the same price. You get almost double the Xmax, and the driver itself seems to be engineered to a higher tech level.

Only thing is the sensitivity is significantly lower.
 
The SLS and XLS woofers have fairly open baskets that allows air to flow out the back of the driver with less obstruction.
In an open baffle design this is important as a restrictive basket design with a high Xmax driver can cause an audible chuffing sound that wouldn't usually be heard in a normal sealed speaker enclosure.
 
Hi John,

Given I have the XLS woofers (as perversely they were cheaper in the UK at the time than the SLS) am I to understand that I could build them with a U-frame to arrive at a cardioid response? I'm under the impression that for a bit of rock that they punch a little harder* than dipoles - or am I mistaken?

I see some notes about efficiency on another thread but I'm not clear whether the excursion limited SPL is greater than a dipole. I have some 400W Hypex modules so power isn't an issue.

Thanks,

Tom

*'pressurise the room'

I don't support the U-frame woofer for the Note. It's a full range dipole.
 
I am wondering if the Peerless XLS10 P830452 would be superior to the Eminence Alpha 15a. It should for the price and will fit John's design perfectly of course. I fear going from 15" drivers to 10" may be giving up something. I should say I do not listen at loud volumes and have a small room.
 
I am wondering if the Peerless XLS10 P830452 would be superior to the Eminence Alpha 15a. It should for the price and will fit John's design perfectly of course. I fear going from 15" drivers to 10" may be giving up something. I should say I do not listen at loud volumes and have a small room.

Based on Xmax and Sd, a pair of 830452 woofer, as used optionally in the Note II, have about 2.7 time the volume displacement (2 x Sd x Xmax) compared to a single 15a. Also, the Peerless woofers are Eq'd to a 35 Hz cut off where as the 15a has an Fs = 41 Hz. Even the dual SLS woofers have more 1.6 times the volume displacement of a single 15a with a lower cut off.
 
Hi John. Thanks for the feedback! I am however using four alpha 15a drivers, not two. Perhaps the maths is near equal then.

On the other hand, I am having doubts about the quality of the 15s, with their cheap build and some reviews I've seen out there.

Honestly, I think I've already decided it's time to upgrade. Just looking for confirmation before parting with the money.