thank you!
the thing is that i need only several Amstar caps and this Caddock, hence see no point ordering them from Mouser or other shop...
So was just curious about some other alternative like these Dales, for instance.
The repair work on my FE beta was cut short. My blood sugar hit 430, I am now officially diabetic. I spent my off days in doctors offices. 🙁
It's good to see so many people building the FE. I have faith that this is the highest current evolution of the 3886 based chip amp. Audiophile sound without the drawbacks of the Aleph series or 300Bset amps such as heat, cost or maintenance. How good can it get ?
I am a novice and I've had a few problems with mine so I hope some of you can learn from my mistakes.
1) clean your PCBs before starting work
2)use ChipQuick on SMD pads, use fine point tweezers and magnification to place SMD parts.
3)use 2% silver solder on SMD pads.
4)avoid over-heating LM318, BAV99, zeners and to a lesser caution LM3886.
5)on thru-hole parts, do not bend leads to hold parts in place before soldering and do not cut excess lead flush with solder joint. Cut your lead half the length of the stand-offs after soldering. This makes it easier to extract the part later if there is a PCB upgrade or mistake.
6)some parts need to be lifted a few mm from the PCB surface for better cooling
7)study the part direction arrows for the better tested orientation, including the SMD parts.
8)for those using styrene C13 caps, avoid overheating the leads.
9)trial fit the LM3886 to your heatsink to ensure your fastener will work as intended. Ensure that LM3886 is 90* to the PCB so it can attach to heatsinks and PCB can attach to stand-offs without stressing the solder joints.
10)plan your soldering session. Do not be rushed, plan quiet time. Have good lighting. Have pictures and thread replies nearby to consult. Have proto-board and cheap resisitors to get your iron heat just right and practice solder before touching the real thing. Warm the pad first, then roll to the lead and touch solder. When you get to the big smoothing caps you may need extra heat to solder to the ground plane.
Did I give good advice, did I omit anything ? Dario, Bob, can you guys add any advice to help RC builders be sucessful ? Since most of this thread deals with the beta build and there are differences with the FE RC will a new build thread be started.
When the main group buy gets going I may start fresh with new PCBs. Any chance they could be in the color Black ? I like the look of Black PCBs the best, blue second, green is just ok, orange is ugly to me.
It's good to see so many people building the FE. I have faith that this is the highest current evolution of the 3886 based chip amp. Audiophile sound without the drawbacks of the Aleph series or 300Bset amps such as heat, cost or maintenance. How good can it get ?
I am a novice and I've had a few problems with mine so I hope some of you can learn from my mistakes.
1) clean your PCBs before starting work
2)use ChipQuick on SMD pads, use fine point tweezers and magnification to place SMD parts.
3)use 2% silver solder on SMD pads.
4)avoid over-heating LM318, BAV99, zeners and to a lesser caution LM3886.
5)on thru-hole parts, do not bend leads to hold parts in place before soldering and do not cut excess lead flush with solder joint. Cut your lead half the length of the stand-offs after soldering. This makes it easier to extract the part later if there is a PCB upgrade or mistake.
6)some parts need to be lifted a few mm from the PCB surface for better cooling
7)study the part direction arrows for the better tested orientation, including the SMD parts.
8)for those using styrene C13 caps, avoid overheating the leads.
9)trial fit the LM3886 to your heatsink to ensure your fastener will work as intended. Ensure that LM3886 is 90* to the PCB so it can attach to heatsinks and PCB can attach to stand-offs without stressing the solder joints.
10)plan your soldering session. Do not be rushed, plan quiet time. Have good lighting. Have pictures and thread replies nearby to consult. Have proto-board and cheap resisitors to get your iron heat just right and practice solder before touching the real thing. Warm the pad first, then roll to the lead and touch solder. When you get to the big smoothing caps you may need extra heat to solder to the ground plane.
Did I give good advice, did I omit anything ? Dario, Bob, can you guys add any advice to help RC builders be sucessful ? Since most of this thread deals with the beta build and there are differences with the FE RC will a new build thread be started.
When the main group buy gets going I may start fresh with new PCBs. Any chance they could be in the color Black ? I like the look of Black PCBs the best, blue second, green is just ok, orange is ugly to me.
Squalor, your openness is to be commended. Another way of saying "DIY' is "learn by doing". I cant list the mistakes and bone headed moves I have made (some here on the thread for all the world to see) in the last two years, but each time I gained some valuable knowledge. You are obviously highly intent on completing a successful FE build and I'm confident you will succeed. I have had to start afresh at least three times with various projects. Hang in there with us.
All of your points are valuable and accurate. I would only reemphasize double and triple check often and slowdown. Though at times it may feel embarrassing - never hesitate to ask questions and post problems. You and all the other folks here are some really good people - always willing to help and inform.
Good luck with your health. From what I know it is one of the most controllable conditions.
All of your points are valuable and accurate. I would only reemphasize double and triple check often and slowdown. Though at times it may feel embarrassing - never hesitate to ask questions and post problems. You and all the other folks here are some really good people - always willing to help and inform.
Good luck with your health. From what I know it is one of the most controllable conditions.
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Is anyone planning to order Mouser next days ? I'm asking because i need to buy only the smd parts from Bom for the FE and i don't want to pay shipping more than cost parts itself.
I'm sorry to hear that... 🙁
They're all god advices.
In the WE I'll open the thread while building my modules.
No, Joe, the PCBs will be blue.
PS
You have mail
So far I've receveid feedback from 3 italian partecipants on boards arrival, any news from others?
PS
I still have boards for whom interested, PM me.
PS
I still have boards for whom interested, PM me.
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Did anyone used both toroids and R-core and noticed some differences?
I remember i installed on a old classic chipamp a trafo like thishttp://images5.okr.ro/auctions/2009/08/16/239288055-3606223-500_500.jpg and it was a nice improvement over a classic torroid.
I remember i installed on a old classic chipamp a trafo like thishttp://images5.okr.ro/auctions/2009/08/16/239288055-3606223-500_500.jpg and it was a nice improvement over a classic torroid.
Maybe worth the effort to find some old undestroyable russian trafos 🙂 to give it a try.
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Here are a couple links and some posts describing toroid vs R-core I did a few days ago. It is for a DAC but as you read, I'm also in the hunt for affordable Rs for my build.
This was discussed back on the beta thread and we even asked if linuxguru could find something in India - the shipping charges were still as much or more than the trani.
First impression
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...kit-cs8416-ak4393-5532-a-199.html#post3098964
A/B Test
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...kit-cs8416-ak4393-5532-a-201.html#post3100563
The size I bought for the DAC cary affordable shipping costs. The larger pieces are where the problem appears, specially for U.S. builders. If anyone finds something where the shipping is reasonable, please post.
This was discussed back on the beta thread and we even asked if linuxguru could find something in India - the shipping charges were still as much or more than the trani.
First impression
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...kit-cs8416-ak4393-5532-a-199.html#post3098964
A/B Test
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digi...kit-cs8416-ak4393-5532-a-201.html#post3100563
The size I bought for the DAC cary affordable shipping costs. The larger pieces are where the problem appears, specially for U.S. builders. If anyone finds something where the shipping is reasonable, please post.
Transformateur R-CORE à fixation sur châssis 120VA - 2 x 24V - Transformateurs R-CORE pour châssis
Is this the one you have Dario ? Wonder why they jump from 120V to 300V ?
Is this the one you have Dario ? Wonder why they jump from 120V to 300V ?
Thanks for your links Bob, i already seen and read your findings. You dont have plans to put some orders to Mouser in the near future ?
atupi, I have enough needed parts that I could place an order early next week. If USPS will save you money I be happy to get what you want and send it along.
P.S. I just discovered Spotify yesterday. Could be a great tool for comparative listening for builders worldwide. Higher sound qualities require a $10 / Mo upgrade.
P.S. I just discovered Spotify yesterday. Could be a great tool for comparative listening for builders worldwide. Higher sound qualities require a $10 / Mo upgrade.
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Did a quick calc on 2 oz to Romania and this tool gives a price ~ $2. Sounds like a good deal to me. May be helpful to others.
Postage Price Calculator
Postage Price Calculator
And because i'm very nervous to test this improved design (FE) over MyRefC wich is already great sounding i sold my speakers and looking for a new fancy standmount speakers right now 🙂
Dario, As you know I'm using the 300 VA toroids. If they can be found at a good price are 200s and 300s overkill?
atupi, Are you interested in building or buying? The same price/performance factors apply to speakers.
atupi, Are you interested in building or buying? The same price/performance factors apply to speakers.
I know Bob but i am aware that i will never obtain fine finished cabinets. In this aspect i'm very picky. Also for MyRef i plan to order some very nice aluminium case from Italy 🙂
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