My upgraded T-Amp

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#22
quiet said:
thanks for the comment

after seeing some of the t-amp mods and upgrades
i think a hard shell suite case maybe next
the t-amp seems like it would eat a horn and a high output 8"
a deep cycle battery or 2

like a rolling concert

thanks for the ideas guys
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quiet,
A little 12V 1.3 Ah SLA should give you 3-6 hours of quality play time when using an SI or similar product, so don't worry about taking up space and adding weight with big batteries. And the little SLAs slay the AA's in every aspect; those batteries recharge in about 30 minutes as well. Battery Mart dot com has pretty good prices and delivery for those.
 
#24
thanks -

soon i will try the t-amp with a xternal x-over
the current set up worked out nice -
the cyber acoustic amp is 3 channel - originaly in a computer speaker set - so not much tweekin there

as far as music goes - just about everything is acceptable for extended listining - at loud (max everything you got) levels its pretty bad though... the low end drops off like a cliff after 60hz or so...

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=58907&perpage=10&pagenumber=1

better spot to continue maybe more on subject ... maybe?
 
#25
If the low end drops off around 50-60hz, you need to mod it. If you check the main T-Amp mod thread, it shows what parts need to be replaced. If I remember correctly, they completely eliminated any bass rolloff. Not that you were going to be powering any subs with one anyway.
 
#28
I am tweaking a sonic T amp too, and i have a question.

What are the little capacitors between the loudspeaker terminals for?? Can they leave them out or change for better ones? And what is the value of these capacitors?

I found no information on internet about these capacitors.

Thanks for any help.
 
#29
They are for RFI

wim said:
I am tweaking a sonic T amp too, and i have a question.

What are the little capacitors between the loudspeaker terminals for?? Can they leave them out or change for better ones? And what is the value of these capacitors?

I found no information on internet about these capacitors.

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...



The value used in the SI is 0.15 ufd. The tripath data sheet shows 0.01. Several have ditched them and felt it clears up the sound.
I use 0.01 ufd multilayer leaded ceramics here. Never tried no cap. It most likely is not needed. The caps used on board are 0.47 which is recommended for 4 ohm speakers. If your speakers are higher impedance than 4 ohm there is already more capacitance in the filter than needed.


George
 
#30
George,
I have asked this question many times but got no reply - what values does anyone use for on board caps for 15ohm speakers?

I see that you recommend taking out these caps as enough capacitance in the output inuctors

I've tried to identify these caps on the board - are they C13 & C16 on top of board?

John
 
#31
jkeny said:
George,
I have asked this question many times but got no reply - what values does anyone use for on board caps for 15ohm speakers?

I see that you recommend taking out these caps as enough capacitance in the output inuctors

I've tried to identify these caps on the board - are they C13 & C16 on top of board?

John
Click to expand...


John,
According to what information I could gleam from the Tripath web site the correct value would be .12uf for all 4 caps. This value can be changed to adjust the sound to your taste.
The caps are labeled C13, 14, 15, 16 and all are on the back side of the board.
As important as these are I think from a quality of sound standpoint the inductors may be even more important.
Roger
 
#32
Thanks Roger,
I have taken off the on board Ps cap and inductors in order to tease out the schematic for the output section.

Is it possible to hand wind 10uH inductors of the dimensions of the Autostriure kit so it fits on t-amp board?

John
 
#34
Need a bit of help computing the length and turns of the magnet wire to make my own torroid inductors. The one used in Amp3, based on posts on the boards, measured 15.2x8.53x5.94, then a guage 24 wire was used to make around 39 turns, 70cm if I'm not mistaken. Problem is I can't source a torroid with those measurements. The dimensions of the ones I got are 13x7.5x7 and if I'm going to make a 10uh inductor out of these, what gauge of wire should I use and how many turns? I've tried using the same gauge 24 wire, naturally, the torroid was already packed at turn #31 and I have no way of verifying if I reached 10uh with these 🙁
 
#35
it's hard to say exactly what their inductance is. i would say don't worry about it too much. less inductance will just increase the output filter's cutoff frequency and Q. if anything, i try to put as many winds as i can on the AMP3's toroid cores (without overlapping) to get the largest inductance possible for a lower cutoff frequency and lower Q. it also increases the copper losses slighty due to the higher resistance but the AMP3 inductors i installed on the SI t-amp don't even get warm!

i measured the AMP3 toroids and got these dimensions:

Outer Diameter=15mm
Inner Diameter=8mm
Height=6mm
 
#37
just did the input caps - 2.2 blackgates
decoupling caps to suit 8 ohm load
vishay potentiometer
better power supply , linear non-switching
improved heat transfer with sink/fan
screened faraday type cage
Good quality connectors/wire
the case took time and patience - nothing more
 
#38
Message for Wim

Wim, I do not have the technical knowledge others do here.

But you may be able to do something with this information.

I have two t-amps, and two super t's.

The super t's do not have the resistor, between the terminals.


Durring my first recasing job with the first generation t-amp, I was all proud of myself, until I twist tightened my newly cased bannana Rca's, only to find, it turned internally, and damaged my resistor.

I can detect no difference in sound, and was actually searching the forum. to post the same question myself, thats when I stumbled upon your post.
 
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