Cap question?
Nathan,
It took me a long time to get my new computer up to speed so missed the early stuff while it was happening. You stated a question about caps I would like to answer for you. A cap across the line can be very beneficial. Please put it across the primary windings so it will be discharged when you switch the unit off and unplug it. Line filter caps can store enough charge to really hurt!
I would recommend a .47uf @ 600v Auricap as a starting point. Larger values might be better but they get very big and expensive. A 1-2uf @ 200v across each secondary also would be helpful. Other polypropylene film caps will work but not be as neutral sounding at least that has been my experience. Remember, outside foil (black lead) to neutral or ground.
I would also recommend putting .01uf @ 600v caps from line and neutral to ground right on the IEC power input connector. This takes care of the higher frequency stuff.
Roger
Nathan,
It took me a long time to get my new computer up to speed so missed the early stuff while it was happening. You stated a question about caps I would like to answer for you. A cap across the line can be very beneficial. Please put it across the primary windings so it will be discharged when you switch the unit off and unplug it. Line filter caps can store enough charge to really hurt!
I would recommend a .47uf @ 600v Auricap as a starting point. Larger values might be better but they get very big and expensive. A 1-2uf @ 200v across each secondary also would be helpful. Other polypropylene film caps will work but not be as neutral sounding at least that has been my experience. Remember, outside foil (black lead) to neutral or ground.
I would also recommend putting .01uf @ 600v caps from line and neutral to ground right on the IEC power input connector. This takes care of the higher frequency stuff.
Roger
Re: Cap question?
Hi Roger,
Thanks for that! Excuse my lack of knowledge, the terminology of everything i'm coming to grips with. When you say across the primary windings, where exactly do you mean? Same deal for the secondaries? As for the other caps, what you're saying is run a run a pair of caps from the line and neutral pins on the IEC power connector, straight to the earth pin?
Sorry about all the questions, trying to picture everything in my head 😛
Cheers,
Nathan
Hi Pat. You can contribute too. I know you're reading 🙂
sx881663 said:Nathan,
It took me a long time to get my new computer up to speed so missed the early stuff while it was happening. You stated a question about caps I would like to answer for you. A cap across the line can be very beneficial. Please put it across the primary windings so it will be discharged when you switch the unit off and unplug it. Line filter caps can store enough charge to really hurt!
I would recommend a .47uf @ 600v Auricap as a starting point. Larger values might be better but they get very big and expensive. A 1-2uf @ 200v across each secondary also would be helpful. Other polypropylene film caps will work but not be as neutral sounding at least that has been my experience. Remember, outside foil (black lead) to neutral or ground.
I would also recommend putting .01uf @ 600v caps from line and neutral to ground right on the IEC power input connector. This takes care of the higher frequency stuff.
Roger
Hi Roger,
Thanks for that! Excuse my lack of knowledge, the terminology of everything i'm coming to grips with. When you say across the primary windings, where exactly do you mean? Same deal for the secondaries? As for the other caps, what you're saying is run a run a pair of caps from the line and neutral pins on the IEC power connector, straight to the earth pin?
Sorry about all the questions, trying to picture everything in my head 😛
Cheers,
Nathan
Hi Pat. You can contribute too. I know you're reading 🙂
further questions?
Nathan,
Primary is the power transformer primary where the line voltage goes in. Add the cap right here just before the wires actually go into the transformer. Secondarys are where power comes out. Once again, make the additions right here. This will probably be right at the rectifiers.
Yes, but make the ground connection right on the IEC pin and keep the leads as short as possible. With the Auricaps, black leads go to ground.
Roger
Edit1;
Don't forget to twist all power wires togather in pairs.
Nathan,
Primary is the power transformer primary where the line voltage goes in. Add the cap right here just before the wires actually go into the transformer. Secondarys are where power comes out. Once again, make the additions right here. This will probably be right at the rectifiers.
Yes, but make the ground connection right on the IEC pin and keep the leads as short as possible. With the Auricaps, black leads go to ground.
Roger
Edit1;
Don't forget to twist all power wires togather in pairs.
Hey Roger,
Sorry, I don't think I asked the right question 😀 I think what I meant to ask was does the cap just go in the actual primary wire (i.e. inline with the wire)? Same deal with the secondaries, inline?
Cheers,
Nathan
Sorry, I don't think I asked the right question 😀 I think what I meant to ask was does the cap just go in the actual primary wire (i.e. inline with the wire)? Same deal with the secondaries, inline?
Cheers,
Nathan
Nathan,
These caps do not go in-line with the wire. They are connected in paralell to the primary winding.(same for each secondary winding)
The idea is that a capacitor works as a short circuit for high frequency content. When you connect them in parallel to the windings, you essentially remove high-frequency content from the windings, since it prefer the short circuit path... 🙂
Allan
ps. I can't tell anything about improving quality... My Orions aren't ready yet, so I can't start testing the different types of upgrades or changes that may or may not improve sound quality.
These caps do not go in-line with the wire. They are connected in paralell to the primary winding.(same for each secondary winding)
The idea is that a capacitor works as a short circuit for high frequency content. When you connect them in parallel to the windings, you essentially remove high-frequency content from the windings, since it prefer the short circuit path... 🙂
Allan
ps. I can't tell anything about improving quality... My Orions aren't ready yet, so I can't start testing the different types of upgrades or changes that may or may not improve sound quality.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is what the amp looks like now, after some judicious tweaking, modifying of the heatsinks and rearranging everything.
- The amplifier modules have been floated, the only thing touching the case is the earth pin from the IEC plug.
- The coupling caps on the modules themselves have been removed.
- I changed the individual diodes to IXYS bridges and positioned them on top of the caps.
- The transformers have been moved to the sides of the case and I endeavoured to get them as far over as possible by modifying the sides of the heatsinks.
- The DC and AC wiring has been separated with as much of it twisted up as possible. The AC runs through the middle and back through the middle, the DC goes straight across to the modules.
- The two pairs of secondaries on the transformer are paralleled together.
- Adhesive felt has been placed underneath the heatsink modules to dampen them on the case.
Overall, definite improvement in every respect, even in my room with all its hard surfaces. Will be more interesting later on.
In the meantime, it would appear something isn't quite right, as every now and then my right module just turns itself off.
I'd love to see a diagram on how your secondaries are //.
I'm guessing this is why a module is going into protection.
Secondly It's ok to mess with gimmicks like felt for damping etc but be sure the basics are correct first and do not compromise them in the face of further such "tweaks".
By that I mean, whatever you have covering up your modules... you're compromising their convective cooling and that will reduce lifespan. I'd think it best removed.
Further to that I have tested to know if it's best to have shorter wires or some form of cooling on the IXYS rectifiers.... I'd opt for the cooling by fastening them to the casing and give the wires a healthy gauge while still keeping them as short as possible.
Your secondaries could be shorter and more direct by going straight to the rectifiers, I'd attempt to seperate them from the mains in fact, which should be shielded if possible.
I find your capacitor terminals in a scary proximaty to your heatsinks.. You could improve on that area by standing the modules up in the case, with the hottest part highest, that's the filter coil, fasten them to the case with a small thick piece of aluminum, improved airflow and more distance from the cap terminals, possibly more direct wiring as well.
Anyway I'd still like to know more about your supply, it looks like you're using a center tap arrangment... I can't see how you've paralleled secondaries without causing some kind of short.
Regards,
Chris
I'm guessing this is why a module is going into protection.
Secondly It's ok to mess with gimmicks like felt for damping etc but be sure the basics are correct first and do not compromise them in the face of further such "tweaks".
By that I mean, whatever you have covering up your modules... you're compromising their convective cooling and that will reduce lifespan. I'd think it best removed.
Further to that I have tested to know if it's best to have shorter wires or some form of cooling on the IXYS rectifiers.... I'd opt for the cooling by fastening them to the casing and give the wires a healthy gauge while still keeping them as short as possible.
Your secondaries could be shorter and more direct by going straight to the rectifiers, I'd attempt to seperate them from the mains in fact, which should be shielded if possible.
I find your capacitor terminals in a scary proximaty to your heatsinks.. You could improve on that area by standing the modules up in the case, with the hottest part highest, that's the filter coil, fasten them to the case with a small thick piece of aluminum, improved airflow and more distance from the cap terminals, possibly more direct wiring as well.
Anyway I'd still like to know more about your supply, it looks like you're using a center tap arrangment... I can't see how you've paralleled secondaries without causing some kind of short.
Regards,
Chris
where is the power supply ground?
If you only have one diode bridge per channel and you parallel the secondaries....how are you making ground? I don't see it.
Suggestions:
1. You do not want to have the AC input wires and the AC output wires next to each other...the input wires have different voltage and no filtering. The current is flowing in the opposite direction....separate the isolate the input and output wires from the transformers.
2. Remove the plates and bolts on the transformers. You can use smaller wooden plate (plywood is fine) and non magnetic hardware (Bronze is stronger than brass and lots of stainless steel hardware is magnetic). You can also just drill several holes around the outside of the transformers and use wire ties.
3. Try removing the ERS material from the input wires.
Try these things one at a time so you can start to get an idea how different things effect the sound....you can also share your findings this way. If you do everything at once, you do not gain any real knowledge, except all things you did produced a result...you don't know what did what. Nor will we. Keep tweaking, your never done. Enjoy.
If you only have one diode bridge per channel and you parallel the secondaries....how are you making ground? I don't see it.
Suggestions:
1. You do not want to have the AC input wires and the AC output wires next to each other...the input wires have different voltage and no filtering. The current is flowing in the opposite direction....separate the isolate the input and output wires from the transformers.
2. Remove the plates and bolts on the transformers. You can use smaller wooden plate (plywood is fine) and non magnetic hardware (Bronze is stronger than brass and lots of stainless steel hardware is magnetic). You can also just drill several holes around the outside of the transformers and use wire ties.
3. Try removing the ERS material from the input wires.
Try these things one at a time so you can start to get an idea how different things effect the sound....you can also share your findings this way. If you do everything at once, you do not gain any real knowledge, except all things you did produced a result...you don't know what did what. Nor will we. Keep tweaking, your never done. Enjoy.
Ground... I think is taped up between them kind of floating just off the chassis.... seriously this looks wrong somehow. I think people get the wrong idea these days when there's mention of paralleled secondaries. I'd like to think it to mean you use two bridges, one per secondary, galvanically isolated from one another. Not actually connecting them together. How in the heck they're "paralleled" here I have no idea.
In addition to all of the above, you have a rather low voltage high impedance node as the single ended input next to a rather high voltage with both low and high ripple frequencies on it.. In very close proximaty. There's so little point to wrapping ERS marketing audiophile bubblegum around wires when you're going to make such a basic mistake.
Those inputs are going to to pick up all the ripple of the supply. Move them apart somehow.
This ERS stuff and and distance between these nods are an excellent example of the need to concentrate on the _factual basics_ before leaping off the voodoo board.
Disclaimer:
No offence intended towards anyone in particular, everyone is as free to be equally offended or individually offended as they so choose, all opinions are my own as I haven't an employer, should any of the above have offended you, tough cookies.
In addition to all of the above, you have a rather low voltage high impedance node as the single ended input next to a rather high voltage with both low and high ripple frequencies on it.. In very close proximaty. There's so little point to wrapping ERS marketing audiophile bubblegum around wires when you're going to make such a basic mistake.
Those inputs are going to to pick up all the ripple of the supply. Move them apart somehow.
This ERS stuff and and distance between these nods are an excellent example of the need to concentrate on the _factual basics_ before leaping off the voodoo board.
Disclaimer:
No offence intended towards anyone in particular, everyone is as free to be equally offended or individually offended as they so choose, all opinions are my own as I haven't an employer, should any of the above have offended you, tough cookies.
Chris, I apologise if this comes out the wrong way. I mean no disrespect when I say it either because I value your input, but do you have to be so antagonistic with EVERY post you make? Sheesh. Nice disclaimer though 😉
Now, to answer your questions. (And look, i'm really only trying to learn here).
The secondaries are paralleled as Ray described. They're the same voltage as he'd asked. They're both then connected to the respective pin on the rectifiers. I have 32V AC out of them, and 42.1V DC coming out of the bridges. For some reason, since then it appears one of the bridges has failed. It's not outputting 52V which would explain the module cutting out.
Where would you recommend I move the RCA?
As for the ERS guys, can we just not go there? I figured (and I just had it lying around) it would be better than none, and as much as I don't want to buy into it about its effectiveness, if it can totally block my mobile phone from receiving signal when wrapped up, it has to be doing something in the way of shielding.
Everything is ground to the modules themselves, pretty much as per Max's diagram. If it was incorrect to do so, then why? That's just how I interpreted peoples suggestions.
The caps and the modules are fixed and cant move, there is about 7mm of air between the terminal and the heatsink. The picture is rather dark and makes them look a tad closer.
The modules are only really "covered" by the step that is on the heatsinks themselves. Considering the modules only really get barely warm with those huge heatsinks on them, i'll leave them till later on.
The rectifiers are something i'll also look at cooling as well. That was just the closest place I could easily move them to.
Point noted on the long secondaries, and it's something i'll probably do when the rectifiers are in their final location. I didn't know about separating the input and output sections of the transformer, I just tried to keep the AC away from the DC. Easily done though. How do you recommend shielding the primaries?
As for the felt, it was more that I just wanted everything to be safe and didn't move around or vibrate or anything 🙂
Now, to answer your questions. (And look, i'm really only trying to learn here).
The secondaries are paralleled as Ray described. They're the same voltage as he'd asked. They're both then connected to the respective pin on the rectifiers. I have 32V AC out of them, and 42.1V DC coming out of the bridges. For some reason, since then it appears one of the bridges has failed. It's not outputting 52V which would explain the module cutting out.
Where would you recommend I move the RCA?
As for the ERS guys, can we just not go there? I figured (and I just had it lying around) it would be better than none, and as much as I don't want to buy into it about its effectiveness, if it can totally block my mobile phone from receiving signal when wrapped up, it has to be doing something in the way of shielding.
Everything is ground to the modules themselves, pretty much as per Max's diagram. If it was incorrect to do so, then why? That's just how I interpreted peoples suggestions.
The caps and the modules are fixed and cant move, there is about 7mm of air between the terminal and the heatsink. The picture is rather dark and makes them look a tad closer.
The modules are only really "covered" by the step that is on the heatsinks themselves. Considering the modules only really get barely warm with those huge heatsinks on them, i'll leave them till later on.
The rectifiers are something i'll also look at cooling as well. That was just the closest place I could easily move them to.
Point noted on the long secondaries, and it's something i'll probably do when the rectifiers are in their final location. I didn't know about separating the input and output sections of the transformer, I just tried to keep the AC away from the DC. Easily done though. How do you recommend shielding the primaries?
As for the felt, it was more that I just wanted everything to be safe and didn't move around or vibrate or anything 🙂
No, honestly, some are more antagonistic than others.. really it's just textualmasturbation I think. Maybe I'll add to that by being a little more serious, I like to take the stance towards moving away from the voodoo. Without disrespect to Rick (great guy I'm sure) I think worrying about something so silly as a xformer mounting bolt at this point ... is about the least of your worries. The smoke you might be seeing ought to be proof enough.
So what you did in fact was short your secondaries.. Maybe try a simulator?
So what you did in fact was short your secondaries.. Maybe try a simulator?
Haha, nice nice.
I dont get what you mean by short them? I only say this, because up until it stopped working this morning, it had been playing all night no worries for about 10 hours. How is bridging the two actives and the two neutrals together going to cause any issues providing they're the same voltage?
Cheers,
Nathan
I dont get what you mean by short them? I only say this, because up until it stopped working this morning, it had been playing all night no worries for about 10 hours. How is bridging the two actives and the two neutrals together going to cause any issues providing they're the same voltage?
Cheers,
Nathan
justcallmefrank said:Haha, nice nice.
I dont get what you mean by short them? I only say this, because up until it stopped working this morning, it had been playing all night no worries for about 10 hours. How is bridging the two actives and the two neutrals together going to cause any issues providing they're the same voltage?
Cheers,
Nathan
Honestly I'm all coffied up right now and still... I'd appreciate a schematic so I or others could comment more intelligently on what you've actually done.
Without bringing out my uber paint skills, the only way I can describe it is to say the active wire from each pair of secondaries and the neutral wire from each pair are joined together. Then it's just wired up as if there is one pair of secondaries. I don't see how I could make that any clearer with a diagram.
After I removed the DC wiring from the rectifiers and checked again, they're both coming up at ~28-29V on the outputs. Does this sound like one of the caps has bit the dirt?
justcallmefrank said:(snip, replied to already)
Now, to answer your questions. (And look, i'm really only trying to learn here).
The secondaries are paralleled as Ray described. They're the same voltage as he'd asked. They're both then connected to the respective pin on the rectifiers. I have 32V AC out of them, and 42.1V DC coming out of the bridges. For some reason, since then it appears one of the bridges has failed. It's not outputting 52V which would explain the module cutting out.
Where would you recommend I move the RCA?
As for the ERS guys, can we just not go there? I figured (and I just had it lying around) it would be better than none, and as much as I don't want to buy into it about its effectiveness, if it can totally block my mobile phone from receiving signal when wrapped up, it has to be doing something in the way of shielding.
Everything is ground to the modules themselves, pretty much as per Max's diagram. If it was incorrect to do so, then why? That's just how I interpreted peoples suggestions.
The caps and the modules are fixed and cant move, there is about 7mm of air between the terminal and the heatsink. The picture is rather dark and makes them look a tad closer.
The modules are only really "covered" by the step that is on the heatsinks themselves. Considering the modules only really get barely warm with those huge heatsinks on them, i'll leave them till later on.
The rectifiers are something i'll also look at cooling as well. That was just the closest place I could easily move them to.
Point noted on the long secondaries, and it's something i'll probably do when the rectifiers are in their final location. I didn't know about separating the input and output sections of the transformer, I just tried to keep the AC away from the DC. Easily done though. How do you recommend shielding the primaries?
As for the felt, it was more that I just wanted everything to be safe and didn't move around or vibrate or anything 🙂
From the sounds and the voltage of it, you actualy connected your secondaries together in parallel, you're getting half voltage out of it, basically one rail, with twice the current. What you should have done is use a bridge rectifier per secondary where each secondary is isolated from one another, fully.
So why did your bridge blow and why did one module not work? Well, I'm guessing you had the polarity (phase)of one secondary reversed and always trying to keep a diode forward biased/shorted. They're damned beastly bridges and I can see them taking a good amount of punishement before finally letting go.
It's impossible to comment intelligently without you providing a schematic for us to comment on. Use paint, use LTspice, use something, it's your $$ and your parts, our time.
You've seen the supply at tnt audio or zero-distiortion.com ?? Wire it something like that.
The ERS... sorry I think there's no good reason for saying you used it because you had it laying around. If you have it laying around, try it out sure, listen carefully before and after, did it make a difference? Was it a good one? Don't automagically make it part of the package though. I think Bruno commented on it before saying it's really only good if you ground both ends of it. I trust it's a makeshift shield.... solution.. use shielded wire.
I'm not sugesting you move the RCA.... probably better to move the caps? It's all alot of compromise, good design is choosing the best options for the least compromise towards the end goal. Can you afford a second case and go full monoblock? That'll help you out a great deal, at least in terms of space, less compromise in terms of layout.
I find you quickly dismissed my advice about the cooling. They don't get warm sure.. and the heatsinks have felt keeping them contacting the case... just because you thought someone had a good idea and.....? whatever.
Do you realize under normal idle conditions the filter coil is going to be rather warm, under load it's going to be hard to touch? That heat is going to go straight up, and in your case, basically remain static heating up the rest of the components on the board.
That's not even in contact with the T-sink. It _needs_ convection... airflow.
Now let's think about the T-sink which cool your mosfets. You've got it attached to a big piece of heatsink, that'll add alot of thermal mass, just means it will take longer to overheat. Said thermal mass is isolated from the chassis via the felt, where do you suppose the heat goes? The fins don't even have ventilation under them... where does the heat go? It's going to slowly overheat until the fets say goodnight. This I find to be the result of dangerous advice... damp your heatsinks huh.
Dear justcallmefrank:
If you look at my (awfull) diagram, you will see that I use one Tx and TWO rectifiers, one for each secondary, per module, as Chris is advicing you for a couple of pages now:
Trust the man. He is very prone to help us, thought he has this...well...kind of rude style sometimes...and he doesn't believe that ERS schit works 😀 (for the better... or worse, most of the times).
We love you ClassD 😉
Seriously justcallmefrank, think about the amount of time and effort it takes to analize a wiring and the mods to it. Even with a diagram its hard...at least for me
Good luck
M
If you look at my (awfull) diagram, you will see that I use one Tx and TWO rectifiers, one for each secondary, per module, as Chris is advicing you for a couple of pages now:

Trust the man. He is very prone to help us, thought he has this...well...kind of rude style sometimes...and he doesn't believe that ERS schit works 😀 (for the better... or worse, most of the times).
We love you ClassD 😉
Seriously justcallmefrank, think about the amount of time and effort it takes to analize a wiring and the mods to it. Even with a diagram its hard...at least for me

Good luck
M
I can take that, thanks 😀
May I add to it? Just so that I can finally let it allllll go, and surely with the hopes it never comes up again, though I know it will, probably sooner than later.
I just get rude when you dismiss engineering in place of voodoo, more so if your first and only defence of the technical merit of your ideas is "peace and love", "people of the forum", and "tyrant", and more so yet should you make a habbit of that, while being a commercial vendor/marketer. That's so damned dangerous to everything here.
In this particular case, no level of voodoo would have helped because the basics of enginneering were misunderstood (ignored), and the ground was being defined by the leakage current of the capacitors alone, making for some truly ugly/unstable rails, at about half the voltage, or in another case twice the expected voltage. You could have tried gold bolts, teflon bolts, dancing bolts, popped the LED's off, removed the faston's.. it wasn't going to work man!
Then you have others who'd voice their opinions and prefer me to sit idly by and watch all this happen while I know better, because I don't know why, they appreciate the mystical aspect of things I guess, but engineering first, please, when you have the basics down, do whatever you like, and good for you. Don't people like Nathan here, you, me, sniff *wipes tear* EVERYBODY.. deserve sound engineering advice over the usual babble that I thought we all came here to escape from? I still think so.
So I get a little passionate at times about these things, call it whatever, I gotta be me, and it's not a popularity contest that's going to make the amp sing, if being blunt and to the point gets me a fan club of three.... right on.
"the only thing that matters is the sound. If you have not tried (listened to) the above tweaks in a super tweaky system you have no basis for comment."
...... is this sounding dangerous to anyone yet?!?!?
I think the original post of this thread ought to be the definition of a "super tweaky" system, no offense here Nathan, and I _do_ have a basis for comment, evil Marketnator.
Hey, remember the first post in this thread, nuforce came out with the edge? It took an amp wired this backwards to do it. Let's wait for the next review, Nathan knows what to do now, spent the night chatting with him to straighten it all out, I got no work on my own amp done, my new UCD400's are still sitting in bags, didn't sell any Jensen caps or anything (Love em, btw, get some), Nathan's check has yet to clear, that's the life of a tyrant anyway.
Hm, nice schematic Maxlorenz, no kidding, people should take the trouble of posting something like that when they have these kinds of issues/questions, it goes a long way.
Cheers,
Tyrantis... 🙄
May I add to it? Just so that I can finally let it allllll go, and surely with the hopes it never comes up again, though I know it will, probably sooner than later.
I just get rude when you dismiss engineering in place of voodoo, more so if your first and only defence of the technical merit of your ideas is "peace and love", "people of the forum", and "tyrant", and more so yet should you make a habbit of that, while being a commercial vendor/marketer. That's so damned dangerous to everything here.
In this particular case, no level of voodoo would have helped because the basics of enginneering were misunderstood (ignored), and the ground was being defined by the leakage current of the capacitors alone, making for some truly ugly/unstable rails, at about half the voltage, or in another case twice the expected voltage. You could have tried gold bolts, teflon bolts, dancing bolts, popped the LED's off, removed the faston's.. it wasn't going to work man!
Then you have others who'd voice their opinions and prefer me to sit idly by and watch all this happen while I know better, because I don't know why, they appreciate the mystical aspect of things I guess, but engineering first, please, when you have the basics down, do whatever you like, and good for you. Don't people like Nathan here, you, me, sniff *wipes tear* EVERYBODY.. deserve sound engineering advice over the usual babble that I thought we all came here to escape from? I still think so.
So I get a little passionate at times about these things, call it whatever, I gotta be me, and it's not a popularity contest that's going to make the amp sing, if being blunt and to the point gets me a fan club of three.... right on.
"the only thing that matters is the sound. If you have not tried (listened to) the above tweaks in a super tweaky system you have no basis for comment."
...... is this sounding dangerous to anyone yet?!?!?
I think the original post of this thread ought to be the definition of a "super tweaky" system, no offense here Nathan, and I _do_ have a basis for comment, evil Marketnator.
Hey, remember the first post in this thread, nuforce came out with the edge? It took an amp wired this backwards to do it. Let's wait for the next review, Nathan knows what to do now, spent the night chatting with him to straighten it all out, I got no work on my own amp done, my new UCD400's are still sitting in bags, didn't sell any Jensen caps or anything (Love em, btw, get some), Nathan's check has yet to clear, that's the life of a tyrant anyway.
Hm, nice schematic Maxlorenz, no kidding, people should take the trouble of posting something like that when they have these kinds of issues/questions, it goes a long way.
Cheers,
Tyrantis... 🙄
Hey Nathan,
Well, first of all, when you have 2 opposites telling you to ditch the ERS, I'd listen. At least after you get all the stuff squared away, listen with and witout the ERS.
Secondly, I owe you an apology, and if I was close by, would buy you some caps. The circuit diagram that Chris worked with you, go for it. Mine was completely incorrect, and I will repost a corrected verbal diagram on the hotrod forum.
Regards,
Ray
Well, first of all, when you have 2 opposites telling you to ditch the ERS, I'd listen. At least after you get all the stuff squared away, listen with and witout the ERS.
Secondly, I owe you an apology, and if I was close by, would buy you some caps. The circuit diagram that Chris worked with you, go for it. Mine was completely incorrect, and I will repost a corrected verbal diagram on the hotrod forum.
Regards,
Ray
ray bronk said:Hey Nathan,
Well, first of all, when you have 2 opposites telling you to ditch the ERS, I'd listen. At least after you get all the stuff squared away, listen with and witout the ERS.
Secondly, I owe you an apology, and if I was close by, would buy you some caps. The circuit diagram that Chris worked with you, go for it. Mine was completely incorrect, and I will repost a corrected verbal diagram on the hotrod forum.
Regards,
Ray
About owing the caps, while I feel we owe sound engineering advice, in the end it's he who plugs it in.... no substitute for proper research, and people need to watch where and who they take their info from, verifying with a simulator is a damned good idea, read the threads that are already there...
I think this thread is turning into a perfect example of what not to do. Great adventure, good lessons, no harm done.
Don't worry about the verbal diagram there's plenty of schematics around ... so long as you understand how it works you know? Those verbal ones I find can be so easily confused.
Let's just sit back and see how it does against the ol noofarce now!
Cheers
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