another nasty post from Chris
Hey, if you have tried some of these things and find the results not to your liking or different from mine, I would like to know and so would everyone else. But to keep putting me down for my ideas and calling me tyrannical, etc. is really quite crazy. You are the one who cannot stand my ideas and keeps putting me down, you are the tyrant, you silly boy. When you point your finger at me, three are pointing back at you. As far as standing behind my perceptions (because that is what they are....direct perceptions from direct experience).....I do. I heard the difference and if you had an open mind you might as well. It is simple as that. My suggestions are all based on what I hear. The penultimate scientific machine tests them (our ears!). I do have a 100 meg scope, signal generators, other test gear.....does not show anything different in most tweaks, including most power supply bypasses....but my ears tell me different. Chill out dude....its a Holyday. LET IT GO. Let IT GO....Why cannot you Love me? To forgive is Divine....show some compassion...I accept you...I accept your ideas....Let it go! Why do we have to read your nastiness everytime I post? Look in the mirror, my friend....love yourself. If you truly love yourself and accept yourself, then you will accept and love me....very simple, but hard to do. Some people would rather be right than loving. Some people would rather be DEAD right than loving. I pray you WAKE UP and start loving and be happy.
Hey, if you have tried some of these things and find the results not to your liking or different from mine, I would like to know and so would everyone else. But to keep putting me down for my ideas and calling me tyrannical, etc. is really quite crazy. You are the one who cannot stand my ideas and keeps putting me down, you are the tyrant, you silly boy. When you point your finger at me, three are pointing back at you. As far as standing behind my perceptions (because that is what they are....direct perceptions from direct experience).....I do. I heard the difference and if you had an open mind you might as well. It is simple as that. My suggestions are all based on what I hear. The penultimate scientific machine tests them (our ears!). I do have a 100 meg scope, signal generators, other test gear.....does not show anything different in most tweaks, including most power supply bypasses....but my ears tell me different. Chill out dude....its a Holyday. LET IT GO. Let IT GO....Why cannot you Love me? To forgive is Divine....show some compassion...I accept you...I accept your ideas....Let it go! Why do we have to read your nastiness everytime I post? Look in the mirror, my friend....love yourself. If you truly love yourself and accept yourself, then you will accept and love me....very simple, but hard to do. Some people would rather be right than loving. Some people would rather be DEAD right than loving. I pray you WAKE UP and start loving and be happy.
Hi guys. I'm not going to go through quoting everything this time, it takes me ages! You know what you guys said.
The caps are here to stay at the moment, funding is tight currently, and I'm going to try and maximise the effect using either cheap stuff, or stuff I easily have access to.
The chassis is also not going to be changed, the retro look of it appeals. By moving the bridges to above the caps though, this will give me room to mount the transformers further apart, would this be a good idea?
While i'm also not keen to fix the transformers to the case that way, it is entirely possible for me to rig something up out of plastic bolts and retaining the rubber dampeners on the transformers.
Don't worry, i've no aversion to using cable ties themselves, my caps are spaced off the chassis using the black ones and then fixed using the white ones.
Forgive my ignorance (and I mean this), but how can the ERS "close down" the highs. I was under the assumption that its point was to catch stray RF and emissions, and by my thinking the only way it could "close down" the highs is by catch stray emissions that are imposing themselves on the signal and therefore your sound?
Once I move the bridges i'll be able to shorten the wiring. As for not using the fastons though, it was Bruno himself that recommended them to me over soldering them, so that is the way I went and will continue to. It also makes it a lot easier to get out of the chassis.
I'll try to check what model IXYS i've got. I'll be using one per monoblock.
Coupling caps are on their way off once I get the other module out of the case.
Is there really going to be any benefit in moving the LED's off the modules? I'm not keen to remove the other one though, the whole point of the chassis is it has to look retro.
I'm actually thinking of shortening the fins on the heatsinks, given their massively overkill size. Would allow me to mount the transformers right in the corners. I will take your advice though, and i'll put something underneath them to dampen any vibrations.
I have one circuit breaker on the AC input which i'm not *super* keen to change, as i've seen them used on some amps i've been very happy listening to (i.e. better than mine).
One of my friends (from the shop) also recommended a small bypass cap on the main caps. Any thoughts on what particular one would be a good match for the Super Throughs? Where exactly do I put this as well?
Case is not being cut for the reasons above. It runs stupidly cool with my massive heatsinks even when being thrashed.
I think it's fairly clear the wiring is the bit I need to get downpat for the greatest effect. The common theme I get here is to float the setup. From my meagre understanding, is this correct? The only thing I connect to the chassis i the earth pin from the IEC plug? Everything else is decoupled?
Thank you everyone thus far, this is exactly what i'd been looking for.
The caps are here to stay at the moment, funding is tight currently, and I'm going to try and maximise the effect using either cheap stuff, or stuff I easily have access to.
The chassis is also not going to be changed, the retro look of it appeals. By moving the bridges to above the caps though, this will give me room to mount the transformers further apart, would this be a good idea?
While i'm also not keen to fix the transformers to the case that way, it is entirely possible for me to rig something up out of plastic bolts and retaining the rubber dampeners on the transformers.
Don't worry, i've no aversion to using cable ties themselves, my caps are spaced off the chassis using the black ones and then fixed using the white ones.
Forgive my ignorance (and I mean this), but how can the ERS "close down" the highs. I was under the assumption that its point was to catch stray RF and emissions, and by my thinking the only way it could "close down" the highs is by catch stray emissions that are imposing themselves on the signal and therefore your sound?
Once I move the bridges i'll be able to shorten the wiring. As for not using the fastons though, it was Bruno himself that recommended them to me over soldering them, so that is the way I went and will continue to. It also makes it a lot easier to get out of the chassis.
I'll try to check what model IXYS i've got. I'll be using one per monoblock.
Coupling caps are on their way off once I get the other module out of the case.
Is there really going to be any benefit in moving the LED's off the modules? I'm not keen to remove the other one though, the whole point of the chassis is it has to look retro.
I'm actually thinking of shortening the fins on the heatsinks, given their massively overkill size. Would allow me to mount the transformers right in the corners. I will take your advice though, and i'll put something underneath them to dampen any vibrations.
I have one circuit breaker on the AC input which i'm not *super* keen to change, as i've seen them used on some amps i've been very happy listening to (i.e. better than mine).
One of my friends (from the shop) also recommended a small bypass cap on the main caps. Any thoughts on what particular one would be a good match for the Super Throughs? Where exactly do I put this as well?
Case is not being cut for the reasons above. It runs stupidly cool with my massive heatsinks even when being thrashed.
I think it's fairly clear the wiring is the bit I need to get downpat for the greatest effect. The common theme I get here is to float the setup. From my meagre understanding, is this correct? The only thing I connect to the chassis i the earth pin from the IEC plug? Everything else is decoupled?
Thank you everyone thus far, this is exactly what i'd been looking for.
I think what i'll do is pick the ones there that are likely to make the most difference, and then go back next weekend to evaluate their effectiveness. My room at home makes it nigh on impossible to hear some of the subtleties, and at least i'll have an extra pair of ears that are more tuned to listening.
Hi Nathan,
If you go to the last page of the Hotrod UCD Modules, you will see my verbal description of the power supply. I would for the moment stick with 1 transformer. If you want to try something nonmagnetic like a brass bolt, that might work. Try the schematic I have, and then lets go from there.
Ray
If you go to the last page of the Hotrod UCD Modules, you will see my verbal description of the power supply. I would for the moment stick with 1 transformer. If you want to try something nonmagnetic like a brass bolt, that might work. Try the schematic I have, and then lets go from there.
Ray
Hi NathanWell, you can take those two if they are secondaries, and both at the same voltage and parallel them together. You will need a use of a volt meter so you can make sure you didn't just short out the two secondaries. If done correctly, you will have more current flow because double the windings. The voltage say 30V or so, that is all you should see for each winding. Hope this helps.
Ray
Ray
Hi Nathan,
If you are using 2 transformers and each transformer has 2 secondaries, once you have them hooked together, then you would just put 4 diodes on each transformer, and go from there. Treat it just like you would if you had both transformer, diodes, caps, and a module in a separate case.
Ray
If you are using 2 transformers and each transformer has 2 secondaries, once you have them hooked together, then you would just put 4 diodes on each transformer, and go from there. Treat it just like you would if you had both transformer, diodes, caps, and a module in a separate case.
Ray
Hi Nathan:
This is how I wired my monoblocks:
http://img216.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ucd400ps6zb.png
I don't know if going dual-mono would call for hum
I got better soundstaging and less noise.
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
M
PS: everyone is free to help me also with it
This is how I wired my monoblocks:
http://img216.imageshack.us/my.php?image=ucd400ps6zb.png
I don't know if going dual-mono would call for hum
I got better soundstaging and less noise.
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
M
PS: everyone is free to help me also with it
Thanks for the diagram, i'll have a look at it in detail a little later. On close inspection though, RCA/XLR notwithstanding, that looks fairly similar to how mine would be if I removed the wire going to the chassis from my diodes, and the wire going to the chassis from my caps. Everything else appears to be the same.
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