We just waited on that project for when the next MCM order went out, over Christmas break (a couple months later). I still have the Tenma DMM that was ordered WITH the 2SB56’s and other stuff, including another pair of the 55-410 polypropylene cone 10”-ers.
Wise.
Isn't it amazing how long things can hang around? The DMM still has use, and the 10" - cool. I have some speakers, meters and all kinds of stuff from way back then.
Isn't it amazing how long things can hang around? The DMM still has use, and the 10" - cool. I have some speakers, meters and all kinds of stuff from way back then.
I use ST & CDIL. The price of CDIL BD139/40 is quite remarkable, I mean very cheap(but good).
Got these before. Also what about 2sc1815, 2SC2229/2SA949I use ST
how they look to you?. Thank you for your time.
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@NareshBrd I'm not sure 100% but the ST ones I have are genuine , they were in an amp I built as drivers and pushed hard didnt even get warm. Hfe around 100 or so if i remember.
is this website good ?. They have concerning low prices for transistors. https://www.tme.eu/ro/katalog/?queryPhrase=BD139
is this website good ?. They have concerning low prices for transistors. https://www.tme.eu/ro/katalog/?queryPhrase=BD139
All looks good. Genuine indeed.Got these before. Also what about 2sc1815, 2SC2229/2SA949
how they look to you?. Thank you for your time.
@NanoFarad So the NXP are fakes.
Thank you for replying.
One more question, are these really metal film? Got 20x 30 values ( 600 pieces) for around 2.4 euro. They say they are 1/4w metal film but they look like 1/2w to me. And not sure they really are metal film.
PS: sorry for my nails in the picture, macro makes them look uglier then they are xD
Thank you for replying.
One more question, are these really metal film? Got 20x 30 values ( 600 pieces) for around 2.4 euro. They say they are 1/4w metal film but they look like 1/2w to me. And not sure they really are metal film.
PS: sorry for my nails in the picture, macro makes them look uglier then they are xD
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@NanoFarad Well they are just resistors, not semiconductors, for 7 euro 1800 pieces are worth for various testing / circuits.
Thank you for your time !.
- Cheers, Bruno.
Thank you for your time !.
- Cheers, Bruno.
A good generic brand of resistor like Yageo is just fine for most purposes (ie audio). They are my go-to. Never had trouble with Xicon resistors from Mouser or PE either, but the electrolytic caps are just awful. Just the UV from my fluorescent shop lights ruined the rubber seals in about 2 years storage. A whole bin of 1000uf/25V caps pitched.
If anybody is going to fake BD139/40’s it’s going to be the NXP/Philips variety, which was the best many years ago. Today I wouldn’t trust them further than I can throw them. ST’s and Fairchild might get you 50-ish MHz, which is usually enough. IMO, if you need more you need to be looking beyond the BDs anyway because you’re probably looking for more than 80 volts. The ST’s and ON both have high hFE down to a volt or two, which is the real attraction for these parts.
If anybody is going to fake BD139/40’s it’s going to be the NXP/Philips variety, which was the best many years ago. Today I wouldn’t trust them further than I can throw them. ST’s and Fairchild might get you 50-ish MHz, which is usually enough. IMO, if you need more you need to be looking beyond the BDs anyway because you’re probably looking for more than 80 volts. The ST’s and ON both have high hFE down to a volt or two, which is the real attraction for these parts.
I do not think there are fake CDIL parts in the market, and they are within 90% of the top brands in quality, quite good enough for most usage.
I knew a motor maker, he used to buy Tata bearings, because nobody would fake them, the fakes would have SKF or NTN markings...said noisy in comparison, durable, and no chance of substitution in transit (it happens).
Same principle applies for CDIL, and UTC Taiwan..they make parts which the original makers stopped making years ago, sometimes under license. No fakes known.
I knew a motor maker, he used to buy Tata bearings, because nobody would fake them, the fakes would have SKF or NTN markings...said noisy in comparison, durable, and no chance of substitution in transit (it happens).
Same principle applies for CDIL, and UTC Taiwan..they make parts which the original makers stopped making years ago, sometimes under license. No fakes known.
FAKE UTC 4558 FROM CHINA(Left)
MC 4558L is the original part made by UTC technologies(Right).
MC 4558L is the original part made by UTC technologies(Right).
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IMSAI Guy shows a wide selection of decapped opamps.
Many of you have probably seen this video, but for these who didn’t: Here it is
Many of you have probably seen this video, but for these who didn’t: Here it is
The only CDILs Ive ever gotten were from surplus houses selling generics. Never had the opportunity to seek them out, as there aren’t any US based distributors I know of carrying them. Some of the “Multicomp“ from Newark could be CDIL, but the obsolete power stuff I’ve gotten have been Mospec. I’ve been using those since the late 80’s when Mouser used to actually carry them, sold under the original Mospec brand. Yes, you could buy a Mospec 2N6609, from Mouser, before you could get a Motorola from them. Bought plenty of them back in the day. It was about that time when Toshiba discontinued the 2SB554.
Out of curiosity left is fake NXP BD140 right is BD140 made by iprs Baneasa Romania, long time ago.A good generic brand of resistor like Yageo is just fine for most purposes (ie audio). They are my go-to. Never had trouble with Xicon resistors from Mouser or PE either, but the electrolytic caps are just awful. Just the UV from my fluorescent shop lights ruined the rubber seals in about 2 years storage. A whole bin of 1000uf/25V caps pitched.
If anybody is going to fake BD139/40’s it’s going to be the NXP/Philips variety, which was the best many years ago. Today I wouldn’t trust them further than I can throw them. ST’s and Fairchild might get you 50-ish MHz, which is usually enough. IMO, if you need more you need to be looking beyond the BDs anyway because you’re probably looking for more than 80 volts. The ST’s and ON both have high hFE down to a volt or two, which is the real attraction for these parts.
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