I am looking forward to finish my A-X's then 😉 I dont know why, but they take me forever to finish?? I might be a little scared of firing them up, I guess😀 I finished loads of projects, but allways finds an excuse for not finishing the A-X's?? How come?They are a very synergistic combination.
Steen😎
Works ok for me, I did it twice😀Can either one of you twisted fruit tell me how many times i have to hit the shipping button on your order page ?
Steen🙂
Can either one of you twisted fruit tell me how many times i have to hit the shipping button on your order page ?
Works for me too. Could just be a PayPal slowdown...
Absolutely, what a beauty🙂Good to go?
I have to say it again, Russ; You are a true wizzard, doing that Eagle stuff🙂 Thanks for doing this!!
Steen😎
Edit: I didnt think it was possible to make this preamp, with so short signal path's! Impressive work!
Thanks Steen. 😎 you are very kind. It has been a ton of fun working on this. It really helps that the design was so good to begin with. Making the PCb was actually pretty simple because of the great work Terry did. 🙂
BTW I never thought a prototype could be built so quickly. 🙂
Cheers!
Russ
BTW I never thought a prototype could be built so quickly. 🙂
Cheers!
Russ
I could actually do 1 - 75V and 1 - 24V. Less noise?
3x9= 27 allright The fet regulator eats up something like 3 volts. Both 2x12 and 3x9, should do fine. But to keep it in the NP spirit, go for the 9,1volts.
Any other opinions on this? These are the only items I still have to order (yes, the initial parts order is in!).
My vote (for what its worth) is one 75V zener and one 25V zener 🙂 That should get you very close to what Terry did on his schematic here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=763865#post763865
Would have to be 24V (no 25V), but still should be close enough.
I just ordered 1500 0-ohm jumpers for the empty zener spots, so those will definitely be in the kits.
I just ordered 1500 0-ohm jumpers for the empty zener spots, so those will definitely be in the kits.
BrianDonegan said:Would have to be 24V (no 25V), but still should be close enough.
I just ordered 1500 0-ohm jumpers for the empty zener spots, so those will definitely be in the kits.
Oops, yes you are right, thats what I meant to type anyway. 🙂
Terry states that the value represents a Zenerstack. I think 8x9,1V Zeners would be more reliable than a single 75V Zener. The string of Zeners a commonly used in NP's preamps. Maybe Terry or someone else could tune in on this?That should get you very close to what Terry did on his schematic here
Steen🙂
steenoe said:Terry states that the value represents a Zenerstack. I think 8x9,1V Zeners would be more reliable than a single 75V Zener. The string of Zeners a commonly used in NP's preamps. Maybe Terry or someone else could tune in on this?
Steen🙂
I think the stack is ther just to help you get the to the desired value, since most times that can't be done with one zener. 🙂 But I could be wrong.
You guys are making the right assumptions. It represents a stack of zeners in series to get the right reference voltage value. And Russ is correct that achieving the exact voltage isn't critical. The circuit will easily tolerate a volt or two in either direction of the spec'd values.
CHeers, Terry
CHeers, Terry
Hi Terry,
So is it also OK to assume that it does not much matter if you use one zener or four zeners to get the value? 🙂
I would think feweer is actually better since zeners make a little noise and the more you have the more potential noise you have 🙂
Cheers!
Russ
So is it also OK to assume that it does not much matter if you use one zener or four zeners to get the value? 🙂
I would think feweer is actually better since zeners make a little noise and the more you have the more potential noise you have 🙂
Cheers!
Russ
As long as you stay within the power specs of the Zener, it shouldn't matter much 🙂Russ White said:So is it also OK to assume that it does not much matter if you use one zener or four zeners to get the value? 🙂
/U.
Okay, the BOM is now up on the web site. Click the Kit Contents link. Also downloadable as an Excel spreadsheet.
Also updated the PS board image with the latest version.
Also updated the PS board image with the latest version.
Hi Brian,
I assume the PCB set + parts kit is for a pair of the xBosoz boards for stereo?
What VA of transformer is recommended for the CCS portion of the powersupply?
Thank you!
-David
I assume the PCB set + parts kit is for a pair of the xBosoz boards for stereo?
What VA of transformer is recommended for the CCS portion of the powersupply?
Thank you!
-David
Member
Joined 2002
dw8083 said:Hi Brian,
I assume the PCB set + parts kit is for a pair of the xBosoz boards for stereo?
What VA of transformer is recommended for the CCS portion of the powersupply?
Thank you!
-David
yup i believe so.. I'm ordering one soon 😀..
When you buy a kit you are buying 2 preamp PCBs and 2 PS PCBS for a stereo pair of monobloc preamps. You get all of the parts to stuff the PCBs and various other bits as well. 🙂 See the BOM on www.twsietdpearaudio.com.dw8083 said:Hi Brian,
I assume the PCB set + parts kit is for a pair of the xBosoz boards for stereo?
What VA of transformer is recommended for the CCS portion of the powersupply?
Thank you!
-David
Cheers!
Russ
Both the board set and the kit are for a stereo pair. To be clear, the board set is two pre boards and two PS boards. The kit is a board set and all parts. Please see the BOM on the site for details on the included parts.
Each channel of the pre draws 80-85ma from each rail. So, for good measure, (.1A * 80V + .1A * 30V) * 2ch = 24VA.
Each channel of the pre draws 80-85ma from each rail. So, for good measure, (.1A * 80V + .1A * 30V) * 2ch = 24VA.
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