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My New 45 SET (choke-loaded 6SN7, direct-coupled)

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In practice this effect is entirely negligible compared with the inherent nonlinearity of the valve. LED bias is essentially distortionless even at low currents.

Merlin, if that's the case than an in time shifting operating point (DC) of the cathode would also have a negligible effect on distortion? Than the need for saturation of the LED (to deliver a perfect constant voltage) would probably also be marginal relative to inherent tube distortion? 😎
 
The way I understand it is in order to get the benefit of LED bias, with the lowest possible dynamic resistance, you want to select the "cheap red" LED. Going to special types like low current or exotic colors tends to increase the resistance. It's a tradeoff; I'm sure it would work, but would it work as well?
 
In practice this effect is entirely negligible compared with the inherent nonlinearity of the valve. LED bias is essentially distortionless even at low currents.

Nevertheless, people report that changing to LED bias brings a change in sound. Of course doesn't mean it's bad just that we are sensitive to subtle changes.
 
Zigzag: Looking at the graph of voltage vs. current for these low current diodes it looks to be even more straight up and down than the cheap red ones I can find to look at.
Not that these low current ones are off the charts expensive ~ $.50 each.
 
Nevertheless, people report that changing to LED bias brings a change in sound. Of course doesn't mean it's bad just that we are sensitive to subtle changes.

Output impedance of an amplifying stage depends on cathode impedance which in turn is a function of the value of the stuff that offsets it. i.o.w. changing the cathode impedance changes output impedance, which could react to the input capacitance of the next stage and so on. That's the effect one could hear, not the impedance of the cathode itself. :cubehead:
 
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Upping the current from the PS might seem the better engineering solution but how about injecting noise that way?

Like I said, if B+ is not clean, I'd use a CCS to inject the current.

Good point about combining channels because AC would theoretically be nil. How's practice, no influence measurable?

There's a very small, noticeable only on headphones, difference in channel separation. Shared LED system is a bit less 'wide' in soundstage. With speakers it's not perceptible.
 
The LED’s have other problems which are possible UHF oscillation spikes and a very high increase in IMD due to the audio path is now seeing a two separate motions of audio and DC current. LED’s are little UHF oscillators. If you want these spikes on your audio signal, put them in, Regular diodes will not do this.
 
a very high increase in IMD due to the audio path is now seeing a two separate motions of audio and DC current.

Please explain this.

LED’s are little UHF oscillators. If you want these spikes on your audio signal, put them in, Regular diodes will not do this.

I don't think it's a good idea to allow your audio circuit to pass UHF anyway. I never had any oscillation issues because of LEDs.
 
I especially like the old silverware chest. It looks exactly (and I mean identical!) to the one my mom's old silverware is in. Perfect!

I'm glad to see you bypassed the heater-coil inductance of the 45's with the orange drop capacitors. Strictly speaking (because I have failed to contract über-capacitor fetish), I'd probably have used Cornell-Dublier CDE 5 μF / 250 V bypasses. But that's just me. I like to give more of the audio spectrum its approaching-zero impedance-to-ground.

(Indeed: since there is a phase tradeoff, it might be wise to at least try larger values)

anyway, here's a toast: :cheers:
 
I'd like to share my latest project: a single-ended triode amp using the 45 triode. The driver is a choke-loaded 6SN7 that is direct coupled. This allows the 6SN7 to be placed underneath the 45 triode, and steal some of the 45's cathode current (see the crude schematic attached). This idea was outlined in an article on tubecad.com, about a "Safe Loftin-White Amplifier." The power supply, not shown in the schematic, is a simple pi filter with solid-state rectification, using a motor-run capacitor as the last capacitor. The filaments of the 45s are each powered by a dedicated transformer, so I can switch on the filaments to warm them up before I switch on the B+. Everything came together smoothly, and the amp started playing music immediately upon power-on. I got the 45 tubes on Ebay for $40 for the pair -- they weren't tested by the seller, but they looked fresh and beautiful. They sound great to me.

(My signal chain: Apple lossless and 256kB iTunes files on my MacBook, Stereo-Link USB DAC, amplifier, Axiom M3 speakers (which have no crossover components on the woofer, and I replaced the tweeter's electrolytic capacitors with plastic film types).

This amp is great. It puts out about two watts, which is plenty loud for me in my smallish room. Detail is tremendous, the transients of orchestral snares and timpani are startling in their realism, and reverb sounds very lush and detailed. Voices are natural. One of my favorite test tracks for a lower-watt SET is "No One But You," from Yo-Yo Ma's Goat Rodeo Sessions. This track has a male and female vocalist, singing quietly, accompanied by piano, mandolin, violin, and cello, all recorded very naturally. On my system, the music is downright spooky -- soundstaging is excellent and everything sounds immediate and present. The sense of air and the hollow resonance of the mandolin really come through.

Noise is actually very low -- I can hear hum with my ear placed inches from the speaker cone, but in the room I can't hear anything. Bass is weaker than the amp I had before (Gary Kaufman's direct-coupled 6EM7 amp), but everything else is better. Of course, this amp can't roar like my Scott 299C, but it handles even modern, highly detailed and dynamic orchestral recordings very well (For example, Rattle conducting Mahler's 2nd). I've read so much about how great the 45 is, and now I can believe the hype.

Best of all, this was a budget-friendly amp. With the cheap tubes and budget transformers, I spent maybe $250 - $300 total, including the "enclosure:" a cheap silverware chest.

What a great, screwy hobby this is.

I love the 45. My very first amp project was Eric Barbour's 45 driven by 6SN7stereo amp as published in Speaker Builder (or was that Glass Audio?) some years ago. I absolutely loved the sound.
 
Thank you all for the comments. My thinking on the LEDs is that nonlinearity/residual voltage shouldn't be too much of a problem in this design, because the 6SN7s are choke-loaded, meaning that current through the LEDs should be constant. As far as UHF, the output impedance of the 6SN7 forms a lowpass filter with the miller capacitance of the 45, which should prevent any UHF from hitting the power tube (not to mention rolloff from the output tranny and speakers). Maybe in the future I'll switch out the orange drop caps for larger ones.
 
Many of agree that the balloon 45 or 245 is the Stradivari of vacuum tubes, a musical instrument itself. For stronger bass, I an using a triamp system on 3-way GR Research speakers and the woofers will be powered by a 245 driven 833A with only about 800 volts. The 833A runs at that voltage about 100 ma with zero grid bias so that it can be connected by a 5k inner-stage transformer that will have the primary winding loading the plate of the 245.
 
All common LEDs exhibit Curvature on the EI plot.
Attached are a couple of HP production from about 35 yrs ago.

As an aside, first LED I ever heard of was around 1960.
Experimental sample, $60 US while I worked on core memory research at U of T Physics. At HP we had Military grade red LEDs for about $10 by 1968.

The price came down very quick. By 1968, 7 or 8 cents in quans of a million.
 

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