The 10R 2W on Prasi's boards is R25, part of the Zobel.
R26 (0.22/5W) is also on the board, but not the L1 / R29 combination
R26 (0.22/5W) is also on the board, but not the L1 / R29 combination
Thanks @Mooly i am missing R29 rated 10R/2w from this schematic in parallel to the 6uH inductorI'm not sure what Prasi's layout looks like tbh and whether the inductor was on the board or not but this shows the correct circuit configuration and with reference numbers to match the original hand drawn diagram in post #1
View attachment 1348933
This will click and run and shows a perfect square wave input and the corresponding output into a small capacitive loading. You can add and remove the 10 ohm to see the effect. Nothing in music comes close to this and I suspect it all becomes a bit academic really.
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It's cross conduction on this configuration that may cause problems at high frequency or square wave input.
I have been wondering if a n channel fet with 1.5k pull down is faster then a 2sc5200 with 100 ohm pull down resistor.
I have been wondering if a n channel fet with 1.5k pull down is faster then a 2sc5200 with 100 ohm pull down resistor.
The prasi layout has the 0.22R series inductor and the Zobel network.
It does not have the coil and its parallel resistor.
The 10R 2w resistor needs to be wired in parallel on the board with the inductor.
See here

Notice the resistor inside the coil.
Vunce used the same board on his build and wired the resistor underneath instead.
It does not have the coil and its parallel resistor.
The 10R 2w resistor needs to be wired in parallel on the board with the inductor.
See here

Notice the resistor inside the coil.
Vunce used the same board on his build and wired the resistor underneath instead.
Yes @Sadface I removed the boards and added a Vishay Dale 10R/3w resistor in parallel with the inductor and listening now in my setup. I would say never heard bass as this amp making my monitors swear and sounding very good paired with the FE22 preamp and Audial Aya5 dac
I'm using the same pre/ power combo right now. I agree it is phenomenal.
I have added two simulation files to post #1 that now include the models needed on the sim itself. One is for the original single die Hitachi/Renesas FET's and the other the Exicon Double Die FET's with bias adjusted accordingly.
Keep it coming 😉 You're cheque is in the post 😀I'm using the same pre/ power combo right now. I agree it is phenomenal.
Would it be too much to ask - any chance of the Exicon single die FETs as well? Or will these be identical to the Hitachi/Renesas?I have added two simulation files to post #1 that now include the models needed on the sim itself. One is for the original single die Hitachi/Renesas FET's and the other the Exicon Double Die FET's with bias adjusted accordingly.
Every time you do something with LTSpice, I learn from it 👃
And another added to post #1 showing start up behaviour of the servo. After 3 seconds the input is applied to deliver 1 watt/8 ohm. This uses a 'real' transformer PSU and reservoir caps.
Hi Andrew, I may be wrong but to me it looks like a door or window profile. Have a look at the local builder supply, you may find something similar.
Eagle eyed Goldie99 has spotted that the labels for D4 and D5 are swapped over on the silk screening. If you're making use of the speaker protection board, the error won't affect the build at all as the two diodes are the same device type and the polarity symbols shown are correct for the intended circuit layout.Following on from a query about the protection board I'm using, I thought it might be useful for anyone else working with Mooly's excellent amp so here is the protection stuff:
View attachment 1344490View attachment 1344491
Its based on Doug Self's one in his Audio Power Amplifier Design book with MOSFETS in place of the original relay. Works great!
If you intend to build it and haven't yet ordered the board blanks, here are the corrected Gerbers. Also, if you reside in the UK, Goldie99 has a few spare (blue, white silk) boards he can make available for free.
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Question about the 0.22ohm 5w resistor. Does it need to be the KOA BPR58CR22J which is a current sensing resistor. Or can I fit just a normal ceramic style one. Would something like this TT Electronics CVW5R220JLF work( its 5 watts ceramic) and 18 cents at Newark.
Thanks
Thanks
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