Hi All
Been in Malta for a week but back in the UK now. A temperature difference of 25 degrees celsius!! UK of course is the lower figure.I've been thinking quite a bit whilst on holiday-always a bad sign.
Anyway-I'm going to try out some new design ideas over the coming days-pictures to follow. Stew-I'll be in touch soon.
Chris
Been in Malta for a week but back in the UK now. A temperature difference of 25 degrees celsius!! UK of course is the lower figure.I've been thinking quite a bit whilst on holiday-always a bad sign.
Anyway-I'm going to try out some new design ideas over the coming days-pictures to follow. Stew-I'll be in touch soon.
Chris
Hi stew,
Chris, wicked LP 12...what have you done to the platter?
I'm in the process of converting my Valhalla to play 45s
Question what does the Roksan / Tabriz / Z1 etc counterweight look like. As this is an ad on item to the arm Im sure we could fabricate some kind of facsimile. To get the best we can from our 219s...ps is it stylish ?
On an other aspect of what we are doing, I was in a well known Swedish shop specifically looking for vessels that could be used for a 3 Pod design TT, Ive been thinking along the lines of Stainless Steel etc. & to my surprise I think Ive found some things that could be rather good.
"Bamboo" bowls of varying sizes Over 12" in dia down to about 4" + boards, boxes & even a 50 mm x 30cm circular block......see where i'm coming from !
Practically all one needs to make a TT
Chris, wicked LP 12...what have you done to the platter?
I'm in the process of converting my Valhalla to play 45s
Question what does the Roksan / Tabriz / Z1 etc counterweight look like. As this is an ad on item to the arm Im sure we could fabricate some kind of facsimile. To get the best we can from our 219s...ps is it stylish ?
On an other aspect of what we are doing, I was in a well known Swedish shop specifically looking for vessels that could be used for a 3 Pod design TT, Ive been thinking along the lines of Stainless Steel etc. & to my surprise I think Ive found some things that could be rather good.
"Bamboo" bowls of varying sizes Over 12" in dia down to about 4" + boards, boxes & even a 50 mm x 30cm circular block......see where i'm coming from !
Practically all one needs to make a TT
found objects...
Yes, the Zi type counter-weight would be easy, however I think that a counter-weight and "string" as I've done is more effective (maybe I'm suffering from "proud papa" syndrome
) and easier to implement (although it has no "bling" factor).
Aren't "found" objects great? I might be inclined to suggest an acrylic or a metal housing to mount the motor. Wood is my favourite material, but unless made for the motor, I suspect anything hollow would resonate and add colorations to the sound.
If using found objects, be sure to fill any gaps with putty or something that can act as a dampening system.
Michael: The mass of the counter-weight is only increased by 2 or 3 grams at most.
Jay: Have you done listening test? PM me if you can...or post your comments in the thread. I'd like as much feedback as possible.
Any others: have you built one? If so please post your finding anf comments.
Thanks all.
Jay, Chris,Michael, et al, hello.
...er how about a n accurate 2 step pulley? How often do you play 45's?
Yes, the Zi type counter-weight would be easy, however I think that a counter-weight and "string" as I've done is more effective (maybe I'm suffering from "proud papa" syndrome
) and easier to implement (although it has no "bling" factor).Aren't "found" objects great? I might be inclined to suggest an acrylic or a metal housing to mount the motor. Wood is my favourite material, but unless made for the motor, I suspect anything hollow would resonate and add colorations to the sound.
If using found objects, be sure to fill any gaps with putty or something that can act as a dampening system.
Michael: The mass of the counter-weight is only increased by 2 or 3 grams at most.
Jay: Have you done listening test? PM me if you can...or post your comments in the thread. I'd like as much feedback as possible.
Any others: have you built one? If so please post your finding anf comments.
Thanks all.
Attachments
The counterweight in the pic is very similar to one I made for my RB300 a loooong time ago.
Yes, the bamboo looks nice & yes they would have to filled with various materials in order to dampen them, ie Lead etc, but Stew if you recall the LS35/A is just a thin walled box till painted in bitumen & then bitumen panels stuck to that, to effectively dampen the wood....
Won't 'string' cause the weight to wobble ?
If so I might have a method of controlling that.....
I have quite a few 12' singles left from my DJ days...eg Franky goes to Hollywood, Two tribes. etc if you've never heard that version its rather good....
'219' is very open & vibrant with plenty of slam in the midband..treble is smooth but a tad ringey i'm using it on a Linn, so thats a bit iffy.
Bass is good & strong, even easier to tell fretless base guitars from fretted.
Ive always wanted to have a 45 for the Linn & the mechanical ali pulley is a hassle & ive found on this site an easy ish method of switching, just a few relatively cheep components
Yes, the bamboo looks nice & yes they would have to filled with various materials in order to dampen them, ie Lead etc, but Stew if you recall the LS35/A is just a thin walled box till painted in bitumen & then bitumen panels stuck to that, to effectively dampen the wood....
Won't 'string' cause the weight to wobble ?
If so I might have a method of controlling that.....
I have quite a few 12' singles left from my DJ days...eg Franky goes to Hollywood, Two tribes. etc if you've never heard that version its rather good....
'219' is very open & vibrant with plenty of slam in the midband..treble is smooth but a tad ringey i'm using it on a Linn, so thats a bit iffy.
Bass is good & strong, even easier to tell fretless base guitars from fretted.
Ive always wanted to have a 45 for the Linn & the mechanical ali pulley is a hassle & ive found on this site an easy ish method of switching, just a few relatively cheep components
Not sure how to put a link to another thread but try this .
Nigel Pearson, seems to know all their is to know about the Valhalla
All the info you would need to make it run at both speeds.
16th September 2013, 05:35 PM #84
nigel pearson
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Oxfordshire
Sorry about photo quality .
Output control gives 66 to 86 V rms red phase ( as did Lingo prototype I was told ) . Yellow and white wires go into the PSU and soldered to R13 .
Red is always on and says 33 1 /3 . Blue in addition 45 .
12 v + does not go to a Valhalla pin . I added it ( 1 mm VERO pin ) . It goes via 130 R to vacated R3 hole . R2 and R3 68 K . These do not get hot . Mostly this is a mod for engineers .
The DIN assists setting up LP12 as it makes removing parts easier .
The 0V is using the unused Valhalla terminal .
Relay runs on - 12 V and + finds 0V on PCB .
Nigel Pearson, seems to know all their is to know about the Valhalla
All the info you would need to make it run at both speeds.
16th September 2013, 05:35 PM #84
nigel pearson
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Oxfordshire
Sorry about photo quality .
Output control gives 66 to 86 V rms red phase ( as did Lingo prototype I was told ) . Yellow and white wires go into the PSU and soldered to R13 .
Red is always on and says 33 1 /3 . Blue in addition 45 .
12 v + does not go to a Valhalla pin . I added it ( 1 mm VERO pin ) . It goes via 130 R to vacated R3 hole . R2 and R3 68 K . These do not get hot . Mostly this is a mod for engineers .
The DIN assists setting up LP12 as it makes removing parts easier .
The 0V is using the unused Valhalla terminal .
Relay runs on - 12 V and + finds 0V on PCB .
With a decent arm, they came uncomfortably close to an entry level LP12.
I sold mine years ago for $450. It had the Basic Plus arm with a K9, woof.
You'll need a lathe and a decent drill press at the very least. Still haven't come across anyone making nice aftermarket bearings.
jeff
Have not heard an Axis, so can't comment, but it is probably a cheep alternative...
for a motor supply, which seem to be very complicated & expensive for what you get.
I have a drill press but no lathe.
I'd like to be able to cobble together a good bearing using Magnets.
I will be working on a counterweight for the '219' in the next few days Hopefully stylish but not bling !
for a motor supply, which seem to be very complicated & expensive for what you get.
I have a drill press but no lathe.
I'd like to be able to cobble together a good bearing using Magnets.
I will be working on a counterweight for the '219' in the next few days Hopefully stylish but not bling !
enough about semantics...
Seeing as I use this term fairly often, I'll respond.
phivates: dampening:= To deaden, to restrain, or to depress
seems appropriate enough when discussing a material whose aim it is to perform such a function.
Here's my peave:
Could folks please stop using the term "ft-lbs."(which is not torque but energy) instead of the correct "lbs.-ft" when describing torque., "because God doesn't play dice with the universe"
If we want semantics lessons, we can go back to school.
Seeing as I use this term fairly often, I'll respond.
phivates: dampening:= To deaden, to restrain, or to depress
seems appropriate enough when discussing a material whose aim it is to perform such a function.
Here's my peave:
Could folks please stop using the term "ft-lbs."(which is not torque but energy) instead of the correct "lbs.-ft" when describing torque.
, "because God doesn't play dice with the universe"If we want semantics lessons, we can go back to school.
Does a damper dampen?
phivates:
I only responded as I am perhaps "most guilty" of what some say is incorrect usage of the words: damp, dampen, damping and dampening...
If I came off as being rude, please accept my sincere apology, I try not to be offensive. I agree we often have the illusion of moving forward, when in fact we are moving backwards.
Regardless, I have found that the 219 does not require anything to damp any mechanical oscillations.
phivates:
I only responded as I am perhaps "most guilty" of what some say is incorrect usage of the words: damp, dampen, damping and dampening...
If I came off as being rude, please accept my sincere apology, I try not to be offensive. I agree we often have the illusion of moving forward, when in fact we are moving backwards.
Regardless, I have found that the 219 does not require anything to damp any mechanical oscillations.
Semantics: parasite infestation suffered by sailors at sea in the old days. Sorry Stew. Any info on that RD11s motor? Best regards Moray James.
The LP 12 now has a 45 option yeah.
The new counterweight is in the process of being made. Its made from two sizes of copper tube 22mm & 15mm both cut & shaped & filled with an epoxy stone material. At the mo i'm sure its to light so I will be making some Lead slabs that I will insert into it by cutting the weight into sections.
So the Gross weight will be simple enough to get right, it's the minor adjustable part that needs more attention.....
The new counterweight is in the process of being made. Its made from two sizes of copper tube 22mm & 15mm both cut & shaped & filled with an epoxy stone material. At the mo i'm sure its to light so I will be making some Lead slabs that I will insert into it by cutting the weight into sections.
So the Gross weight will be simple enough to get right, it's the minor adjustable part that needs more attention.....