"You need 4 switches for this to work properly.
The first 2 switches close and connect the cap across a rectified and smoothed DC source, while the 2nd pair of switches are open. During this phase, the flying capacitor is charged.
You then open the first two switches and close the 2nd pair, connecting the flying cap to a storage cap which supplies the load.
This approach completely isolates the input source voltage from the load.
In the arrangement described above, both the supply rail and the ground rail are switched to provide isolation."
The idea is that you follow the above with a (good) linear regulator, and therefore solve the common mode and series mode problems.
The first 2 switches close and connect the cap across a rectified and smoothed DC source, while the 2nd pair of switches are open. During this phase, the flying capacitor is charged.
You then open the first two switches and close the 2nd pair, connecting the flying cap to a storage cap which supplies the load.
This approach completely isolates the input source voltage from the load.
In the arrangement described above, both the supply rail and the ground rail are switched to provide isolation."
The idea is that you follow the above with a (good) linear regulator, and therefore solve the common mode and series mode problems.
Hello
Passive line filtering at the source are for me the first step to do.
John Curl suggested a very simple power line conditioner;
"I want to give all of you the design of a really cheap power conditioner. Get a 10uF polypropylene metal cased motor start capacitor between 400DCV and 600V and plug it directly across the hot and the neutral at the wall."
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1302419#post1302419
A variation of this ideas;
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/sound_practices/4/line_conditioner.htm
Gaetan
Passive line filtering at the source are for me the first step to do.
John Curl suggested a very simple power line conditioner;
"I want to give all of you the design of a really cheap power conditioner. Get a 10uF polypropylene metal cased motor start capacitor between 400DCV and 600V and plug it directly across the hot and the neutral at the wall."
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1302419#post1302419
A variation of this ideas;
http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/sound_practices/4/line_conditioner.htm
Gaetan
Why not use rectifiertubes...They'll effective do away with any switching noise,,,Then use chokes for the common mode noise...
I have a DA converter made like this...And the inky black background it has is hard to beat. The IV conversion i singlestage mosfet run tube style with output caps at 250V..
I have a DA converter made like this...And the inky black background it has is hard to beat. The IV conversion i singlestage mosfet run tube style with output caps at 250V..
MiiB said:
IME rectifier tubes (especially Mercury) greatly help. Still, one can hear (if one can hear such stuff at all) the effect of power cords, mains transformers, etc. And there is some added inconvenience when powering low voltage circuits.
The concept of being completely decoupled from mains and rectification issues is a lot more attractive.
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