Jerms, thanks for the link. I will read it before making the final plans, but from the first few posts, it seems there are only minor differences between choosing one method or the other.
I played with Xsim a little, trying to figure out basic crossovers, and I just found out, I don't have enough info for the Markaudio drivers. I then opened up excel and inserted some values that I read from the official frequency response chart. Has anyone got any good FRD's and ZMA's of these speakers?
I played with Xsim a little, trying to figure out basic crossovers, and I just found out, I don't have enough info for the Markaudio drivers. I then opened up excel and inserted some values that I read from the official frequency response chart. Has anyone got any good FRD's and ZMA's of these speakers?
Hi, how would this be for a crossover? I only put one capacitor as hpf, just to limit excursion of the fr driver. The lpf, however, is 2nd order.
This crossover is totally imaginary, I don't even know if these values exist nor if they are any good, but the response looks flat enough. I would appreciate opinions.
This crossover is totally imaginary, I don't even know if these values exist nor if they are any good, but the response looks flat enough. I would appreciate opinions.
Attachments
Is that -15dB chasm between 5k to 10k measured from your driver? Yikes!
It's always better to use frd and zma files from your own setup/enclosure.
It's always better to use frd and zma files from your own setup/enclosure.
Might be my clumsy manual frd creation, but the drivers are also choppy from 10k on.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Something must have been wrong with my baffle step FRD file, because the big dip appeared after applying it.
I tried another export option in Edge, and the frequency response now looks a lot nicer.
I tried another export option in Edge, and the frequency response now looks a lot nicer.
Trouble is, you are designing a XO not meant for your enclosure and room environment.
There's no zma output from that graph, so, the XO will be flawed as well..
There's no zma output from that graph, so, the XO will be flawed as well..
This is just a theoretical xo. An exercise since I never built anything like this is my life. When drivers are in te enclosure, I will measure their frequency response again and work from there. I have no means of measuring impedance, though :S
The project is slooowly moving forward, and I'm at the MDF choices... Would 25 vs 28mm thickness make much difference? The enclosures will be massive and very heavy with both of them anyway...
Really? Because I read once that the absolute best material for speakers would be a combination of mdf and particle board, so If I doubled on the thickness of the mdf... the thing should be pretty darn solid, right.
Or I could make my cabine maker sweat a little and actually make a MDF+OSB sandwich 🙂
Any amp recomendations for a speaker like this?
LM1875 or LM3886 or some class D?
Or I could make my cabine maker sweat a little and actually make a MDF+OSB sandwich 🙂
Any amp recomendations for a speaker like this?
LM1875 or LM3886 or some class D?
I don't know from very much experience, but 2 pairs of FH3's I made, one with mdf and one with ply, the one made of mdf sounds a lot tighter. Everything else is identical - driver, stuffing, room. Could be my ply was subpar, but can't know for sure, it looked good enough to me when I worked with it.
Plus, the big weight is a plus, because I won't have to fear my kids will tip them over - the reason I had to retire my FH3s.
Speakers this size, made of hi-grade plywood could be expensive as fu** as well. It's MDF this time. 🙂
Plus, the big weight is a plus, because I won't have to fear my kids will tip them over - the reason I had to retire my FH3s.
Speakers this size, made of hi-grade plywood could be expensive as fu** as well. It's MDF this time. 🙂
The absolute best? The internet abounds with some quite entertaining bloviations on the subject, but AFAIC there's no such thing -period
I've built lot of speakers of many different types over the past two decades, and would recommend Baltic Birch or equivalent - there's a much wider range in quality of sheet goods labeled as "plywood" than is the case for MDF & PB. As far as speaker go, MDF is great for patterns, spacers and jigs.
As for type of amp - within your short list of options there's quite a range of quality from which to choose. For cheap, it's hard to beat some of the small ClassD amps from folks like Topping, YJ, SURE, etc - I have several still in my stable. If you're up to building a kit, the most impressive units I've heard recently have been LM3886 chip amps designed by Tom Christiansen - specifically the composite Modulus86 and 686. Not all chimp amp designs take the specific device's idiosyncrasies into full consideration, with varying degrees of unintended consequences or long term reliability issues.
Here's a fun read on the topic:
Taming the LM3886 Chip Amplifier
Last edited:
To update a bit:
I decided to go with minidsp, and ordered the 2x4.
Amps will be 4x TPA3116 mono (DC 12V 24V TPA3116 Mono Channel Digital Power Audio Amplifier Board BTL Out 100W-in Integrated Circuits from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group)
Everything ordered but the enclosure, because I'm still playing with some design aspects. I added some bracing and changed the MA's chamber.
I decided to go with minidsp, and ordered the 2x4.
Amps will be 4x TPA3116 mono (DC 12V 24V TPA3116 Mono Channel Digital Power Audio Amplifier Board BTL Out 100W-in Integrated Circuits from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group)
Everything ordered but the enclosure, because I'm still playing with some design aspects. I added some bracing and changed the MA's chamber.
Attachments
- Status
- Not open for further replies.