You'll be on the street. 2 boxes is harder to grab & steal, requires 3 hands and the cable might trip a running thief. Easier to carry too. If you're partying out of a car where you can lock up one while you carry the other. You friends can watch while you carry, or help carry.
I like real bass instead of fake bass, that means to me 54 hz. You can tune one box for good midrange and tune the other to go down to 50 hz.
8 ohm speaker 100 w is about 3.2 amps. 2 drivers, 6.4. Double that for class AB amp or about 1.4* for class D. 9 amps divided into amp hour rating gives hours. If 9 amps is higher than the battery manufacturer's test for AH, then lower time by 30-50%. For 20-50 amp rated battery use electric bicycle or scooter rated battery.
For box tuning I use David B. Weems "Designing Building and Testing your own Speaker System" book $12 on ebay. Or if you run windows there are alot of sims available. I hate windows, buying new computers & updating all the time. I can calculate Weems formulas with a calculator or in my head.
Note the 99.6 db 1w1m beta10CMBA is 300 hz limited. Where as the beta-10cx with 60 hz rating is 94.3 db 1w1m. That's 2020 models, download speaker selector from eminence.com for current models & suffixes. Every time you increase power by 10 you increase sound out by 3 db. A little less since they test on infinite baffle and you're using a box. Again note the deltapro10 goes down to 53 hz, for a few dollars more and aluminum frame instead of steel. Steel is magnetically lossy. The two boxes could have different 10" drivers.
I like real bass instead of fake bass, that means to me 54 hz. You can tune one box for good midrange and tune the other to go down to 50 hz.
8 ohm speaker 100 w is about 3.2 amps. 2 drivers, 6.4. Double that for class AB amp or about 1.4* for class D. 9 amps divided into amp hour rating gives hours. If 9 amps is higher than the battery manufacturer's test for AH, then lower time by 30-50%. For 20-50 amp rated battery use electric bicycle or scooter rated battery.
For box tuning I use David B. Weems "Designing Building and Testing your own Speaker System" book $12 on ebay. Or if you run windows there are alot of sims available. I hate windows, buying new computers & updating all the time. I can calculate Weems formulas with a calculator or in my head.
Note the 99.6 db 1w1m beta10CMBA is 300 hz limited. Where as the beta-10cx with 60 hz rating is 94.3 db 1w1m. That's 2020 models, download speaker selector from eminence.com for current models & suffixes. Every time you increase power by 10 you increase sound out by 3 db. A little less since they test on infinite baffle and you're using a box. Again note the deltapro10 goes down to 53 hz, for a few dollars more and aluminum frame instead of steel. Steel is magnetically lossy. The two boxes could have different 10" drivers.
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Sorry, my previous post may not have been worded well. For the 2.5-way execution the bottom woofer would play lows, the upper woofer would play mids & lows.
Unless you plan to add a subwoofer I would not choose a 2.1 amp for this case as the crossover frequency is likely not where you want it & is likely to high-pass the other 2 channels.
Also the TAS3156 datasheet doesn't show the "140W" PBTL channel for loads higher than 2ohms. It is possible that it is fine for higher loads but it isn't clear.
You could build this speaker passively & have 1 amp channel per speaker in case you build more & you could add a sub later for 2.1 if desired. If you wanted to go active I'd recommend a 2.0 amp (1 channel for woofers & 1 for highs) & passively create the 0.5 channel if desired. You would then use a different amp if you wanted to add a sub.
For active crossover/DSP I have experience w/ MiniDSP, which is decent. I imagine the t.racks products available on Thomann are similar. Other options would be more PA focused from DBX etc.
I don't think the CDX1-1010 will like being used below 2.2kHz & might even prefer ~3kHZ crossover.
For box design I'd target ~1.25 cuft net volume per woofer w/ port tuning ~60Hz. A system like this (after subtracting for baffle loss) should be good for ~110dB @ 1m when driven w/ 60W.
Unless you plan to add a subwoofer I would not choose a 2.1 amp for this case as the crossover frequency is likely not where you want it & is likely to high-pass the other 2 channels.
Also the TAS3156 datasheet doesn't show the "140W" PBTL channel for loads higher than 2ohms. It is possible that it is fine for higher loads but it isn't clear.
You could build this speaker passively & have 1 amp channel per speaker in case you build more & you could add a sub later for 2.1 if desired. If you wanted to go active I'd recommend a 2.0 amp (1 channel for woofers & 1 for highs) & passively create the 0.5 channel if desired. You would then use a different amp if you wanted to add a sub.
For active crossover/DSP I have experience w/ MiniDSP, which is decent. I imagine the t.racks products available on Thomann are similar. Other options would be more PA focused from DBX etc.
I don't think the CDX1-1010 will like being used below 2.2kHz & might even prefer ~3kHZ crossover.
For box design I'd target ~1.25 cuft net volume per woofer w/ port tuning ~60Hz. A system like this (after subtracting for baffle loss) should be good for ~110dB @ 1m when driven w/ 60W.
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I'd rather have one big thing to move as I'm moving by foot plus I've got 4 stairs to go up and down so I'll move it using a trolley. Plus I'm not so concerned about thief as I'll have 10+ friends constantly around the speakers and there are no cars passing by and in my experience (we've been doing this for 2 years now) no one ever tried to take the speakers, my question was more about the inside. but you answered that also. I'll go for 1 big box splitted in 3 small boxes inside, lowest one tuned for bass, second one a little bit higher for mid-bass and 3rd one being the compression horn loaded tweeter.
So If I have something like this in 12A it would last around 1h20 @max volume?
So you're saying that the mid woofer should also play the 50Hz-100Hz frequency to support the lower woofer? And go all the way to 3KHz?
From what I've read online, active crossover are meant to go before the amp. In my case, with this amp and its unknown cutofff frequencies, wouldn't that be pointless to use and active xover if I don't change the amp's PCP to root it differently as all the crossover's work would be destroyed by the amp's. own "crossover" ?
Thanks for this. This is more or less what I had in mind and feels enought for now
Re splitting into 3 boxes, I wouldn't bother, it will reduce overall internal volume.
You will want both woofers playing lows otherwise it will sound anemic. Since both woofers will be covering lows they can share the same volume.
The active crossover/DSP will give infinite adjustability, that paired w/ a basic 2.0 amp will make for a simple solution that will give better reaults & also be useful for future projects. Whereas a 2.1 amp like you found will be limited to basic hi-pass & low-pass that won't be where you want & to get what you want would likely need modification. Even then it won't give any fine tuning, bass boost, etc.
You will want both woofers playing lows otherwise it will sound anemic. Since both woofers will be covering lows they can share the same volume.
The active crossover/DSP will give infinite adjustability, that paired w/ a basic 2.0 amp will make for a simple solution that will give better reaults & also be useful for future projects. Whereas a 2.1 amp like you found will be limited to basic hi-pass & low-pass that won't be where you want & to get what you want would likely need modification. Even then it won't give any fine tuning, bass boost, etc.
Ok so I should aim for that then.
Should I split the tweeter's box or, as it's compression, I can leave it on the top and ignore this part in the box calculation for the woofer?
My friend kinda bought it fast, he saw this and said "well let's get this, try, and eventually modifiy the pcb later" (he knows he's way around pcp so I trust him for that). But what I've seen on the spec it's 2 chips TPA3156D2 both supposedly 140W in mono. Maybe we can bypass the crossover part and turn it into a "simple" 2.0 class D amp? Then just put the active crossover before it ?
Maybe I'll juste use this space to lay the electronic/battery then. Plus if I got the electronic on the highest part I won't have to crouch to trim the pots or change the battery and it won't mess with the internal volume and might reduce the risks of vibrations inside the woofer box. Feels like a win-win. The only thing bothering me is that I'll add weight on top and reduce stability of the speaker. But I'd rather have a less stable box with a propper, empty internal volume.
here is a first draft of the dual woofer box : First draft, no Tweeter
Let's say I take away half of the top pannel on this plan and just keep the rear part. Then, I increase front, rear and sides to fit the horn, and of course closing the top part over the horn like in the original plan, I should be able the lay the electronics behind the horn on the "half pannel". Would it be an issue that the box is "half opened" on the horn box? Because my issue here is, if I put the electronnics behind the horn, I'll need the wires to go down at some point and I don't want to create a hole in the rear pannel
Or is it a bad Idea to have the electronnics sitting on a half pannel away from the woofers' box?
On another matter, I've chosen this kind of port as it seems easier to build than pipes. What do you think about that?
Oh, wow, a 1.4" x 12" port 2" long? 16 sqin? On a 2.5 cu ft box?
David Weems is showing for 50 hz 2.5 cu ft a 4" diameter port 1.9" long.
12 sqin area.
My ported Peavey SP2 (2004) has 2 triangular ports 3" long on the flat sides, so 9 sqin total port area. That box tuning frequency is listed as 55 hz.
Rectangular port of plywood is heavy IMHO. Your box built of 3/4 ply will be heavy anyway. For ports I'm using PVC floor flanges 2" long, 3 " ID. Toilet floor flanges from HD. Can be gasketed and screwed directly to a hole cut in plywood.
I can't buy "baltic birch" plywood @ HomeDepot or Lowes, so I'm trying MDF, 1/2" thick. I'm going to brace with 1/2" wood dowels, 2 each, and hope my low volumes (100 W max) keep the sides & back from vibrating. My front panel will be 3/4 since the woofer vibrates it. I want my woofer box on poles since voice up to 1200 hz comes from them in my 2 way, and I don't want to lift over 60 lb. (I'm age 71 & small) Your volume won't be extreme with a 12 AH 24 v battery as power source.
A hole in the rear panel for wires would be 1 cm diameter, and easily caulked with RTV or wood glue. Nearly everybody puts their connectors back there with a hole underneath.
Electronic crossover & horn inside the box subtract from box volume. Box tuning calculated from VAS of driver, your desired Qt, a multiple of VAS from a chart.
Cool thing about HD, they sell 2'x4' panels of MDF & plywood, precut, so I don't have to rent a truck to bring home a 4'x8' sheet of ply or MDF. I hauled them home on my bicycle, 2 at a time. Even if I paid Lowes $75 delivery fee, you have to dedicate a whole day to waiting for the truck to show up. I can't even carry a 4'x8' sheet into my back yard to cut it.
David Weems is showing for 50 hz 2.5 cu ft a 4" diameter port 1.9" long.
12 sqin area.
My ported Peavey SP2 (2004) has 2 triangular ports 3" long on the flat sides, so 9 sqin total port area. That box tuning frequency is listed as 55 hz.
Rectangular port of plywood is heavy IMHO. Your box built of 3/4 ply will be heavy anyway. For ports I'm using PVC floor flanges 2" long, 3 " ID. Toilet floor flanges from HD. Can be gasketed and screwed directly to a hole cut in plywood.
I can't buy "baltic birch" plywood @ HomeDepot or Lowes, so I'm trying MDF, 1/2" thick. I'm going to brace with 1/2" wood dowels, 2 each, and hope my low volumes (100 W max) keep the sides & back from vibrating. My front panel will be 3/4 since the woofer vibrates it. I want my woofer box on poles since voice up to 1200 hz comes from them in my 2 way, and I don't want to lift over 60 lb. (I'm age 71 & small) Your volume won't be extreme with a 12 AH 24 v battery as power source.
A hole in the rear panel for wires would be 1 cm diameter, and easily caulked with RTV or wood glue. Nearly everybody puts their connectors back there with a hole underneath.
Electronic crossover & horn inside the box subtract from box volume. Box tuning calculated from VAS of driver, your desired Qt, a multiple of VAS from a chart.
Cool thing about HD, they sell 2'x4' panels of MDF & plywood, precut, so I don't have to rent a truck to bring home a 4'x8' sheet of ply or MDF. I hauled them home on my bicycle, 2 at a time. Even if I paid Lowes $75 delivery fee, you have to dedicate a whole day to waiting for the truck to show up. I can't even carry a 4'x8' sheet into my back yard to cut it.
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Please remember this is my first project, and a first draft
So you've gotta be clear about what you think. From what I understand you're saying it's too big? Site was recommending between 15.5 for 1x10" woofer... But from was I've come across online it says my port should be 40 sqin x 26 long. But it seems to be the length for tuning around 35.75Hz for 2x10" and 2.5cuft... so Lenght for me should be (this result is once again from a calculator) 7.63" for a tuning @53Hz
Plus in the box the L shape port scares me a bit on a 26" long port for a tuning that low. Besides I don't need it to be that low, do I?
On another calculator, with a 2.5cuft, 4" diameter @50Hz it should be.......... 51.18" seems like we've got an issue here as the box isn't that deep and I don't have any plumbing skills
Sorry I didn't change the wood on the plans but I intend to use 15mm Okoumé plywood (I can't come accross 12mm and 10mm seems light) @430Kg/m3. Feels like a good wood, good resistance, kinda waterproof and it's quite cheap here (around 45€ for the whole project seems ok to me) besides they sell sheets of 80x60cm so I can cut battens and port out of the extras.
total weight for the wood will be around 6-7Kg (data from the wood manufacturer) with speaker and electronics/battery it will be between 10Kg and 15Kg. I'm still relatively young and quite tall (32 and 185cm) so it's not an issue.
Are you saying I should put everything behind the box? thus creating a box behind the box and just dig a hole between those? Then fill it locking the cables inside ?
I think I'm miss understanding it. Or do you mean create a closed box for the horn and put the electronics there as I was suggesting (just close it and not let it half opened). And then make the wire go to the rear panel instead of letting them inside? What would be the point ?
We don't have HD here in France and most local shop offer free shipping for this amount of wood (cost of wood will be slightly higher though). And if I wanna go cheapest I can go to some other store where wood will be cut on demand (perfect for me as I don't have very good tools at home) and I can just take the subway with my wood. I've done that for many other wood related projects (tables, desks, etc.) It's quite a journey but I don't really mind, the subway is lifting most of the way
Here is a second draft with a... 40sqin port
And here is one with a 12sqin port (almost no port) tuning here @50Hz
Still not settled for any of those port. I've got to learn more on this.
The only thing I think is good it the 50-55hz tuning ?
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I have to agree w/ indianajo & wouldn't go for a slot port, they are more difficult to adjust than a tube. Typically slot ports @ ends of enclosures tend to tune lower than predicted, whereas a tube port placed away from corners tends to be pretty accurate.
Also, I would go for a wider box than deeper, should be easier to carry as the weight would be closer.
Re placement of the amp, on top w/ the horn seems fine. Provided the woofers are sealed below there is no reason the amp & horn need to be in a sealed box. You could run the wires from amp down thru the woofer's top panel. The input to the amp or DSP could be on the rear in the same area as the amp.
Also, I would go for a wider box than deeper, should be easier to carry as the weight would be closer.
Re placement of the amp, on top w/ the horn seems fine. Provided the woofers are sealed below there is no reason the amp & horn need to be in a sealed box. You could run the wires from amp down thru the woofer's top panel. The input to the amp or DSP could be on the rear in the same area as the amp.
sub box is coming up with much larger ports than David Weems tables. Much larger than my production SP2 speaker tuned to 54 hz. That has 15" woofer.
You can cut a 2nd port later, but you can't close up a too big port. Cut 12 sq in port at first 2" deep, per david weems. Then plot box response with microphone, cut bigger or change length as necessary. Don't glue port panel at first to allow adjustment.
I like 54 hz tuning, covers most of music with one speaker & 2 drivers. The SP2's are great speakers that do it all except 20-54 hz. Also miss 17-20 khz but I can't hear that anyway. Hearing stops @ 14 khz.
PVC drain pipe floor flanges come in 2" & 3" ID versions, make a nice screw down port adapter. Light, too. Cut round hole with same scroll saw (sabre saw) you cut the driver hole with. Use rubber sheet or poly foam for a gasket cut with scissors.
Agree with noggers, for weight reason I'm not even enclosing my horn tweeter. Sits naked on pole above woofer. Non-portable. Your box makes it easy to carry tweeter as a party-box but the amp crossover & tweeter don't need to be sealed. Amp needs ventilation anyway, maybe a fan. If not a large heat sink on the top or back through the wood case.
You can cut a 2nd port later, but you can't close up a too big port. Cut 12 sq in port at first 2" deep, per david weems. Then plot box response with microphone, cut bigger or change length as necessary. Don't glue port panel at first to allow adjustment.
I like 54 hz tuning, covers most of music with one speaker & 2 drivers. The SP2's are great speakers that do it all except 20-54 hz. Also miss 17-20 khz but I can't hear that anyway. Hearing stops @ 14 khz.
PVC drain pipe floor flanges come in 2" & 3" ID versions, make a nice screw down port adapter. Light, too. Cut round hole with same scroll saw (sabre saw) you cut the driver hole with. Use rubber sheet or poly foam for a gasket cut with scissors.
Agree with noggers, for weight reason I'm not even enclosing my horn tweeter. Sits naked on pole above woofer. Non-portable. Your box makes it easy to carry tweeter as a party-box but the amp crossover & tweeter don't need to be sealed. Amp needs ventilation anyway, maybe a fan. If not a large heat sink on the top or back through the wood case.
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I'll remember that, thanks.
So you're suggesting that I buy something like this the insert a tube at it's end then just trim until i'm happy with it? But if I go for a 3" I won't be able to put a 4" diameter at the end. Shouldn't I take the same diameter as the pipe itself?
Besides, I feel like I'm missing something because a 12sqin disk is a 3.9088 inch diameter disk. So let's say 4" (that's what I planned I the above draft) considering that this is the outside diameter, and not the inside. Is this correct?
Unfortunatly I don't have that much tools. Holes for the driver will be carefully drawn then... don't scream plz... I'll use a drill to make holes all around the inside of the drawn circle. Then I'll sand down the remaining wood. Or I'll trim it using something like this that I know how to use. It's going to take some times but I don't have much choice here. Most of the tools I have are hand tools.
The choice of wood still remain an issue as I'm still hesitating between 3 woods : ply either Okume or Cottonwood (can't find and birch near me) of MDF. Price is about the same for all 3.
I've heard somewhere that MDF is better and more easy to work with. Can you confirm that?
Here is a second draft (pipes are on the wrong side but they should be on the right side of the front panel (which shall be the bottom..) I've "tuned" to 46.5Hz as it's the closer to 2" depth that I could manage but the goal is still something a little bit higher (around 53hz).
On another matter, I believe I need to damp the whole thing. Do you have any suggestion ? (placement, material)? Should they be accounted for in the box calculation e.g. I should make it that much bigger?
Thanks a lot for your help
Port area 12.5 sq in agrees with David weems 12 for about 50 hz.
The plastic flange you posted is not flat on top and has no nail holes or screw holes. The PVC flanges for toilets in the US are right inner diameter, 3.25", and 1.9" long without an insert. The ID fits 3" PVC drain pipe if I need a length extender. The flanges have a flat surface for caulking or a gasket. Surely France has a similar PVC part. Floor flanges for regular PVC drain pipe (al la 2") also have a flat face and screw holes. Get to your local home store or plumbing supply and see what they stock.
Actually cutting holes with a hand jig saw might be faster than using a drill bit. Don't they have Stanley products in France? I picked up a nice Stanley jig saw (hand) in a flea market recently. $5. You might find an electric sabre saw (jig saw) used in a pawn shop or something. Mine cost $49 30 years ago from Sears. use 14 tooth blade for wood.
I'm going to try jute bat for internal damping. Available from e-bay as a car mat underlayment. 5/8" thick, no phosgene gas if there is a fire. The plastic stuff parts-express sells is pricey. Going to use #6 wood screws to tack it to the inside walls. Staple is faster but may not penetrate MDF very well.
MDF doesn't shred wood splinters from the surface the way plywood does. Makes ugly gouges. However, people on here have said the MDF you get in Europe is inferior to what we get in USA. MDF is certainly cheaper here than quality plywood. I'm paying $11 for a 2'x4'x1/2" sheet MDF. Plywood here is thinned out, 1/2" plywood is actually 23/32" or something rediculous.
No experience with cottonwood or okume. Here we get pine, which makes huge splinters when sawed. My 3/4" front panel will be something HD calls Sahel, which is actually 3/4" thick. Looks like a finer grain wood than pine, too.
Yes, damping material affects the box calculation. I'm going a bit oversize, as I can always cut more off. I can't add more on. Depends how the frequency response turns out on the microphone test. I have a 3/4 acre yard, I can do my anechoic mike tests out of doors on a quiet night.
The plastic flange you posted is not flat on top and has no nail holes or screw holes. The PVC flanges for toilets in the US are right inner diameter, 3.25", and 1.9" long without an insert. The ID fits 3" PVC drain pipe if I need a length extender. The flanges have a flat surface for caulking or a gasket. Surely France has a similar PVC part. Floor flanges for regular PVC drain pipe (al la 2") also have a flat face and screw holes. Get to your local home store or plumbing supply and see what they stock.
Actually cutting holes with a hand jig saw might be faster than using a drill bit. Don't they have Stanley products in France? I picked up a nice Stanley jig saw (hand) in a flea market recently. $5. You might find an electric sabre saw (jig saw) used in a pawn shop or something. Mine cost $49 30 years ago from Sears. use 14 tooth blade for wood.
I'm going to try jute bat for internal damping. Available from e-bay as a car mat underlayment. 5/8" thick, no phosgene gas if there is a fire. The plastic stuff parts-express sells is pricey. Going to use #6 wood screws to tack it to the inside walls. Staple is faster but may not penetrate MDF very well.
MDF doesn't shred wood splinters from the surface the way plywood does. Makes ugly gouges. However, people on here have said the MDF you get in Europe is inferior to what we get in USA. MDF is certainly cheaper here than quality plywood. I'm paying $11 for a 2'x4'x1/2" sheet MDF. Plywood here is thinned out, 1/2" plywood is actually 23/32" or something rediculous.
No experience with cottonwood or okume. Here we get pine, which makes huge splinters when sawed. My 3/4" front panel will be something HD calls Sahel, which is actually 3/4" thick. Looks like a finer grain wood than pine, too.
Yes, damping material affects the box calculation. I'm going a bit oversize, as I can always cut more off. I can't add more on. Depends how the frequency response turns out on the microphone test. I have a 3/4 acre yard, I can do my anechoic mike tests out of doors on a quiet night.
Here is the new build :
Mid/bass 10" drivers : Eminence Beta-10A – Thomann France x2
Tweeter compression 1" : Celestion CDX1-1010 – Thomann France
Horn. : Celestion H1-8050 – Thomann France
DSP 2x4: miniDSP Kits: miniDSP 2x4 kit
3way amp : WONDOM AA-AB35281 T-Amp Class D Amplifier Module 3x200W 3 Ohm - Audiophonics
36V battery : https://fra.grandado.com/products/3..._BwE&variant=UHJvZHVjdFZhcmlhbnQ6MjA1MDY4NDg3
Let me know what you think.
Mid/bass 10" drivers : Eminence Beta-10A – Thomann France x2
Tweeter compression 1" : Celestion CDX1-1010 – Thomann France
Horn. : Celestion H1-8050 – Thomann France
DSP 2x4: miniDSP Kits: miniDSP 2x4 kit
3way amp : WONDOM AA-AB35281 T-Amp Class D Amplifier Module 3x200W 3 Ohm - Audiophonics
36V battery : https://fra.grandado.com/products/3..._BwE&variant=UHJvZHVjdFZhcmlhbnQ6MjA1MDY4NDg3
Let me know what you think.
Just wondering why you want 2x10", I'd rather have a single 15".
A single 15" = less holes to cut, less fiddling with a 2.5 way crossover, perhaps even less weight, less power amp channels.
See if you can get the 15LB075-UW4 over there, cheap driver that can play nice.
15LB075-UW4-Beta Three
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Thomann:
the box 15LB075-UW4 Speaker 15" – Thomann France
A single 15" = less holes to cut, less fiddling with a 2.5 way crossover, perhaps even less weight, less power amp channels.
See if you can get the 15LB075-UW4 over there, cheap driver that can play nice.
15LB075-UW4-Beta Three
Edit:
Thomann:
the box 15LB075-UW4 Speaker 15" – Thomann France
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The OP doesn't need to use 2.5way crossover, but it is an option for TMM orientation. If MTM orientation it would not be used.
For a 15" execution a larger horn & compression driver w/ a larger diaphragm would be required to address the lower crossover necessary. Something like Celestion CDX1-1745 w/ B&C ME45 or 18S XT1086 would be good options.
For a 15" execution a larger horn & compression driver w/ a larger diaphragm would be required to address the lower crossover necessary. Something like Celestion CDX1-1745 w/ B&C ME45 or 18S XT1086 would be good options.
Tbh, I was just trying to do this 2.5 thing because I thought it would be nice looking and a little bit of challenge. You might be right regarding the 15". Easier, probably stronger in the bass and seems to be cheaper also.
I wouldn't even need a DSP and I could just buy a passive crossover...
I've got some extra cash now so my budget is around 500€.
I would need to reevaluate everything though... starting by the box, the amplifier etc.
Another issue about the 15" is that the whole TMM idea also comes from the fact that I wouldn't pole mount it, so the Treble part would be closer to people's head. Is that factor really that important? idk
or... I could go 3way with 15" for the low end, 10" for the mid/bass and the compression driver...
The box might be too heavy/big though
There is a advantage at substituting 1 x 15" by 2 x 10"
Besides trivial "you have to cut less wood", in general you have higher power handling but more important, better transient response (definition).
There is an reason once ubiquitous 60´s and 70´s 2 x 15" bass Guitar speakers all but dissapeared and were massively replaced by 4 x 10".
Besides trivial "you have to cut less wood", in general you have higher power handling but more important, better transient response (definition).
There is an reason once ubiquitous 60´s and 70´s 2 x 15" bass Guitar speakers all but dissapeared and were massively replaced by 4 x 10".