Here's news: Pyle IS flea-market quality if you try and use their pro sound drivers for serious pro sound applications. You get good performance because you are able to use them at low volume levels, but I would have to wonder if they would begin to distort at rock-concert levels.
Well, only one of those links is to a supplier willing to ship to the UK and the shipping charges for four of those Pyle woofers is quoted at 520USD!
So it is back to looking at car hi-fi woofers over here with the Apline SWE-1241's favourite at the moment.
If I recall correctly, the Adire woofers are not really specced for open baffle use but I'll take another look.
So it is back to looking at car hi-fi woofers over here with the Apline SWE-1241's favourite at the moment.
If I recall correctly, the Adire woofers are not really specced for open baffle use but I'll take another look.
BAM said:Here's news: Pyle IS flea-market quality if you try and use their pro sound drivers for serious pro sound applications. You get good performance because you are able to use them at low volume levels, but I would have to wonder if they would begin to distort at rock-concert levels.
Here's some news for you, too. I've shut off my main amp before, and just played the subs by themselves, turned the volume almost all the way up with the sub amp pumping out almost all 400 watts, and still didn't get any distortion, bottoming out, or break up. And the cones were only moving maybe .75 of an inch.
They CAN play at near concert levels, and can be played that way for quite a while with no problems, and still pound out bass that you can feel all the way out to my driveway. And my listening room is in the back of the house!
Don't knock them until you've tried or listened to them! 😡
my 15" pyles defiantly pound at an adequate level when cranked.
although my w-frame enclosure could use a little more work to clear up some vibration.
although my w-frame enclosure could use a little more work to clear up some vibration.
chops....I don`t disreguard your choice of driver being " Pyle "...like all mfg`s they have different lines of quality in their products...the key is to utilise the driver of choice to your application and sometimes a reference driver is not needed in a given application and its people like ourselves who tweak that benefit from it....I myself play around with less than audiophile components that suit me just fine...my motto is "if it works for you then go with it"
Regards, DIRT®
Regards, DIRT®
Wagner carries Adire:
And we can get them in the UK from Design3Dwstudio but the Qts is not high enough.
Hello All,
I'm another south westerner who's been thinking of building a pair of dipole subs so I've been reading this thread with interest.
I started browsing the CPC website after someone posted a link and noticed that a lot of their drivers are identical to those stocked by MCM Electronics (CPC, Farnell, MCM, Newark are all the same company, I believe).
The MCM website is a nightmare to navigate but I have a printed copy of the catalogue and they provide basic T/S parameters for most of their drivers. These two are also stocked by CPC and seem to be usable for dipole bass applications:
This 12" has a Qts of 0.71 (oh yes!) and fs=28Hz:
http://custom1.farnell.com/cpc/prod...and+Sounders+-+Loudspeakers&product_id=260400
This 10" DVC has a has a Qts of 0.49 and fs=29Hz:
http://custom1.farnell.com/cpc/prod...and+Sounders+-+Loudspeakers&product_id=260406
Unfortunately, MCM don't publish Xmax specs, and for £20 I can't imagine these drivers are going to making the walls crumble. Might be worth a try though...
I'm another south westerner who's been thinking of building a pair of dipole subs so I've been reading this thread with interest.
I started browsing the CPC website after someone posted a link and noticed that a lot of their drivers are identical to those stocked by MCM Electronics (CPC, Farnell, MCM, Newark are all the same company, I believe).
The MCM website is a nightmare to navigate but I have a printed copy of the catalogue and they provide basic T/S parameters for most of their drivers. These two are also stocked by CPC and seem to be usable for dipole bass applications:
This 12" has a Qts of 0.71 (oh yes!) and fs=28Hz:
http://custom1.farnell.com/cpc/prod...and+Sounders+-+Loudspeakers&product_id=260400
This 10" DVC has a has a Qts of 0.49 and fs=29Hz:
http://custom1.farnell.com/cpc/prod...and+Sounders+-+Loudspeakers&product_id=260406
Unfortunately, MCM don't publish Xmax specs, and for £20 I can't imagine these drivers are going to making the walls crumble. Might be worth a try though...
Chops (or anyone else who can answer),
How do you think a single one of your dipole subs (exact same design) would work in a system for HT and Music? My space is fairly limited but I'm really liking the dipole idea as it is both cheap and simple. I'm not too keen on shrinking things down as I would like to get the best low end frequency response. Or would it be wiser to make two smaller ones?
How do you think a single one of your dipole subs (exact same design) would work in a system for HT and Music? My space is fairly limited but I'm really liking the dipole idea as it is both cheap and simple. I'm not too keen on shrinking things down as I would like to get the best low end frequency response. Or would it be wiser to make two smaller ones?
I'm using a pair of pro audio style 18'' subs in a W baffle that also doubles as a stand for my 68cm TV.
set up this way the huge magnets don't effect the TV at all😱
all I had to use was a 24db x-over at around 40hz to get a mostly flat response from 80hz down to a small rise at 30hz after which it begins to roll off.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
set up this way the huge magnets don't effect the TV at all😱
all I had to use was a 24db x-over at around 40hz to get a mostly flat response from 80hz down to a small rise at 30hz after which it begins to roll off.
More details please.
Hi Volenti,
That sub looks very interesting.
What type of equalisation do you use - if any ? Any details?
How about the actual placement. How far away from the back wall and sides of the room. And how does it 'sound'.
Thanks.
Cheers.
Hi Volenti,
That sub looks very interesting.
What type of equalisation do you use - if any ? Any details?
How about the actual placement. How far away from the back wall and sides of the room. And how does it 'sound'.
Thanks.
Cheers.
ashok;
I'm not using any EQ as such, Im cascading 2 12db active x-overs, one already in the plate amp powering the 18's and another pre-ceding it, both are adjustable giving me a fair degree of contouring control, I currently have the one in the plate amp at 30hz and the external one at 80hz, so I essentially have a 12db slope from 30hz to 80hz and a 24db slope after 80hz.
The W baffle is ~2' away from the wall, here's an over view shot.
as for "sound", now that's an interesting thing, I also have a pair of low Q long throw 15's in a sealed enclosure (you can see it in the side room in the above pic)
Even without being optimally positioned the dual 15's go a lot lower (I place them right next to the dipole when I'm comparing) but then the 15's have more displacement than the 18's(the 18's only have like 5mm max) and are in a sealed enclosure so there's no real surprise there.
However there is a certain something about the dipoles that attracts my ear, it takes a little getting used to since we are generally so accustomed to the sound of "enclosed" bass, the dipole seems to handle transient effects(both in music and HT) better (faster?) and sounds a bit flatter with music than the 15's. Though I still like the sound of the 15's so I'm actually having a tough time deciding between the two, it may simply come down to whatever better matches the speakers I happen to be using at the time.
I'm not using any EQ as such, Im cascading 2 12db active x-overs, one already in the plate amp powering the 18's and another pre-ceding it, both are adjustable giving me a fair degree of contouring control, I currently have the one in the plate amp at 30hz and the external one at 80hz, so I essentially have a 12db slope from 30hz to 80hz and a 24db slope after 80hz.
The W baffle is ~2' away from the wall, here's an over view shot.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
as for "sound", now that's an interesting thing, I also have a pair of low Q long throw 15's in a sealed enclosure (you can see it in the side room in the above pic)
Even without being optimally positioned the dual 15's go a lot lower (I place them right next to the dipole when I'm comparing) but then the 15's have more displacement than the 18's(the 18's only have like 5mm max) and are in a sealed enclosure so there's no real surprise there.
However there is a certain something about the dipoles that attracts my ear, it takes a little getting used to since we are generally so accustomed to the sound of "enclosed" bass, the dipole seems to handle transient effects(both in music and HT) better (faster?) and sounds a bit flatter with music than the 15's. Though I still like the sound of the 15's so I'm actually having a tough time deciding between the two, it may simply come down to whatever better matches the speakers I happen to be using at the time.
Unfortunately, MCM don't publish Xmax specs, and for £20 I can't imagine these drivers are going to making the walls crumble. Might be worth a try though...
Yes, I found a 15 inch driver on the CPC site with a Qts of 1.2 but again no sign of the Xmax parameter.
I suspect those 12 inchers will have a tiny Xmax at that price but as you say, they could be worth experimenting with at that price! I like my home and don't want to make 'the walls crumble' 😉 - just add some extra bass to a good sounding pair of open baffles.
If I was working, I think that I would invest 80 pounds just to find out how good (or bad0 they are.
The 'best' I have found so far are some 12 inch car woofers made by Alpine (the SWE-1241) which have a Qts of 0.66, and about 11mm of Xmax. The best UK price on those I have found is 75UKP inclusive of delivery.
There are various 12 inch car subs on Ebay(UK) but nobody selling them seems to have any specs at all!
Do MCM have a website? I had never heard of them until your post.
MCM do have a website, but navigating it is a pain. Terrible! Ghastly!
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/
I've just noticed that Farnell carries most of the same drivers as CPC but includes scans from the MCM catalogue which includes basic TS specs (click on the datasheet icon):
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/se...UK0-AC~013000000~013009000~013009000&DShip=NO
That Alpine drivers seems the best bet so far. These guys have it for £55, including VAT but not delivery:
http://www.mcs-direct.co.uk/acatalog/MCS_DIRECT_Subwoofers_51.html
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/
I've just noticed that Farnell carries most of the same drivers as CPC but includes scans from the MCM catalogue which includes basic TS specs (click on the datasheet icon):
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/se...UK0-AC~013000000~013009000~013009000&DShip=NO
That Alpine drivers seems the best bet so far. These guys have it for £55, including VAT but not delivery:
http://www.mcs-direct.co.uk/acatalog/MCS_DIRECT_Subwoofers_51.html
That Alpine drivers seems the best bet so far. These guys have it for £55, including VAT but not delivery:
Hmmm, the delivery is quoted at £10 for four of them so I am now very tempted. Four for 230UKP works out at 57.50UKP each fully inclusive and I was aiming for around 50 plus delivery.
The only unknown AFAIK (or don't know) is the noise factor (as revealed by SL's test). I have yet to find a picture of the basket construction. The E's are the cheapest in the range and use a pressed steel basket although judging by the other specifications, this is a well-made product.
The baskets on the S and R range are much better but apart from costing a lot more, they don't have the higher Qts.
Has anybody out there got experience of using Alpine drivers?
FAO daatkins
daatkins, do you have the Vas parameter for that 12 inch poly woofer from CPC?
I'm toying with the idea of dipoles or 3 sealed boxes as I've got plenty with my 12 inch for music, but it's running out of steam on movies.
daatkins, do you have the Vas parameter for that 12 inch poly woofer from CPC?
I'm toying with the idea of dipoles or 3 sealed boxes as I've got plenty with my 12 inch for music, but it's running out of steam on movies.
The 'clear poyprop woofer'? It's 2.6 cu ft.
I be interested to know your Xmax estimate if you do decide to get one!
Nice one,
David.
I be interested to know your Xmax estimate if you do decide to get one!
Nice one,
David.
rxc said:Chops (or anyone else who can answer),
How do you think a single one of your dipole subs (exact same design) would work in a system for HT and Music? My space is fairly limited but I'm really liking the dipole idea as it is both cheap and simple. I'm not too keen on shrinking things down as I would like to get the best low end frequency response. Or would it be wiser to make two smaller ones?
One late night a while back I was doing something with my stereo, can't remember anymore. Anyway, I ended up disconnecting the left channel sub and forgot to hook it back up. The next day when I came home from work, I turned on the stereo and was listening to an organ cd with some major low bass down to 16Hz. I had they system playing loud and I got up to look to see how far the drivers were moving, then I realized that the one I was looking at wasn't even hooked up!
To make a short story shorter, I'm guessing because of the dipole projecting sound front and rear, it kind of gives the effect of stereo bass if you're not paying close attention.
And to answer your question, YES, I think even one of these dipole subs would make you very happy with music and movies!! 😎
One more thing, placement DOES NOT seem to play a big roll with the performance of my dipoles. I've had them out and away from all the walls, close to the side walls, close to the back wall, and they still sound great!
Right now, I have them against the side walls to get the most stereo separation possible, and toed in just a little. 😀
Right now, I have them against the side walls to get the most stereo separation possible, and toed in just a little. 😀
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