Yes only for positive. The neg. is a single strand with shielding. I didnt hear any significant changes with doubling up the neg, so it stayed that way.
Marce, the shileding of both conductors separately has to do with the physical layout of the design. It is easier for me to keep them separate than to try to shield together. Also, the shileding I use is BOTH for interference rejection and to keep the conductors from oxidizing. They will oxidize in just a cotton dielectric jacket. I dont believe that shielding both conductors together offers an advantage in these short, low conducting cables.
yes Alazira, you are correct in your assumptions.😀 I will add a little more later after fiddling around with the new cotton rope. This larger diameter rope may allow me to change the morphology slighlty, and try out a few things I couldnt before.
Spell it our for me would ya?
Ok, i did some reading...you are talking about loops in circuits and such right? And similarities in cable loops between signal and return yes? Like basically what a balanced cable does thats more advantageous than reg.
Yea...NAH....fuhgettaboutit. No issues here.
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How do you know that the Manley box doesn't have a signature?
It uses relays inside? Wire... etc...
Difficult system to listen to - no speakers??
Class D amp, eh? Hmmmm...
Have you measured the capacitance per foot of your interconnects?
That counts...
just askin'...
_-_-bear
I thought high impedance circuits are low current, high voltage? Is the voltage carried on interconnects considered high?
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Who's that in your avatar? Looks like I'm missing out on a good catoon or something.
OMG...you dont know who Early is? See Squidbillies.
I think he's one of my long lost relatives.😀
The voltage is irrelevant.
The issue is shunt capacitance, impedance WRT frequency based on the reactance that the capacitance presents at a given frequency
_-_-bear
These both measure capacitance as well as being cheap all-around DMM's, and may be good enough to be "acceptable"
Our Best Low Cost Multi-Function Digital Multimeter
Low Cost CSI2010 Digital Multimeter
I've got that first model, I paid $20 for it new, some guy had like 10 of them at a hamfest a year or two ago. I can't find it offhand to try it out, but the lowest capacitance scale should have a resolution of 1pF, which should be good enough to measure one cable as (for example, just guessing at numbers) 45pF and another as 49pF and thus the second has more capacitance, even if the exact values for each measurement are several pF off.
For real money and accuracy, I have a BK-878 digital L-R-C meter (and I know exactly where it is, unlike the other one that's floating around here somewhere), which is now sold as model BK-878B, sells in the $200 range. I bought it for measuring and matching crossover components (it's a full four digit display and has a capacitance resolution of down to 0.1pF which is overkill for most things), but incredibly I haven't made any speakers since I bought it.
I already had an old venerable GR X-Y bridge just like I had used in college decades earlier, but those things are a beast, you need both an oscillator and a meter to use it, AND you need to read the manual to know how to set the switches, and turn both dials to set the meter value to minimum measurement. It's far from intuitive, unless perhaps you used it often. Nowadays it's as much of a museum item as a piece of test equipment. There's this and a few other things I should put into a glass case.
And thanks to your recommendation, I just saw an animated version of "Smokey and the Bandit." I got my hammer down...
Our Best Low Cost Multi-Function Digital Multimeter
Low Cost CSI2010 Digital Multimeter
I've got that first model, I paid $20 for it new, some guy had like 10 of them at a hamfest a year or two ago. I can't find it offhand to try it out, but the lowest capacitance scale should have a resolution of 1pF, which should be good enough to measure one cable as (for example, just guessing at numbers) 45pF and another as 49pF and thus the second has more capacitance, even if the exact values for each measurement are several pF off.
For real money and accuracy, I have a BK-878 digital L-R-C meter (and I know exactly where it is, unlike the other one that's floating around here somewhere), which is now sold as model BK-878B, sells in the $200 range. I bought it for measuring and matching crossover components (it's a full four digit display and has a capacitance resolution of down to 0.1pF which is overkill for most things), but incredibly I haven't made any speakers since I bought it.
I already had an old venerable GR X-Y bridge just like I had used in college decades earlier, but those things are a beast, you need both an oscillator and a meter to use it, AND you need to read the manual to know how to set the switches, and turn both dials to set the meter value to minimum measurement. It's far from intuitive, unless perhaps you used it often. Nowadays it's as much of a museum item as a piece of test equipment. There's this and a few other things I should put into a glass case.
And thanks to your recommendation, I just saw an animated version of "Smokey and the Bandit." I got my hammer down...
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