DcibeL, Thank you for your advice.
I have a further question for the transformer and shall be grateful if you could help me.
If I use that transformor for the Mauro"s Lm3386 with the attached PSU, can I do that with just one transformor?
I have some doubt of the output in V if I just parellal the output. Will it became +35V 0V- 35V?
I have not make any diy for almost 15 years and all memory are gone.
Accept me my silly question.
I have a further question for the transformer and shall be grateful if you could help me.
If I use that transformor for the Mauro"s Lm3386 with the attached PSU, can I do that with just one transformor?
I have some doubt of the output in V if I just parellal the output. Will it became +35V 0V- 35V?
I have not make any diy for almost 15 years and all memory are gone.
Accept me my silly question.
Attachments
Member
Joined 2003
I don't understand why you are asking about this power supply, since Mauro's boards have the power supply built on them already.
derekyu-
For Mauro's amp, you just need this transformer and the amp kit. The power supply (rectifier bridge, capacitors etc) are built-in. After assembling the amp board, you simply connect the 4 transformer output wires and you are done.
For Mauro's amp, you just need this transformer and the amp kit. The power supply (rectifier bridge, capacitors etc) are built-in. After assembling the amp board, you simply connect the 4 transformer output wires and you are done.
How much heat sinking is enough?
I am assembling my Mauro kit right now and needed some input. I got some heatsink stock from that guy on ebay and wonder how much to use. I've got it cut down to where I could use one piece for both driver chips (LM3886's) or two heat sinks with one HS per driver. The pieces right now are cut at 5" x 2".
How much heatsink is needed or adequate? I will be cranking this amp into 90db speakers in a 21x23 foot room.
Here's a link to some pictures....
http://www.moranplanet.com/tommytube.com/mauro_penasa gainclone/heatsinks for LM3886 amp.htm
thanks,
Tom
I am assembling my Mauro kit right now and needed some input. I got some heatsink stock from that guy on ebay and wonder how much to use. I've got it cut down to where I could use one piece for both driver chips (LM3886's) or two heat sinks with one HS per driver. The pieces right now are cut at 5" x 2".
How much heatsink is needed or adequate? I will be cranking this amp into 90db speakers in a 21x23 foot room.
Here's a link to some pictures....
http://www.moranplanet.com/tommytube.com/mauro_penasa gainclone/heatsinks for LM3886 amp.htm
thanks,
Tom
I did the exact same thing with my heatsinks and it looks like I got mine from the same guy. Should be more than adequate.
Re: How much heat sinking is enough?
This one should be fine:
Regards,
Michael
tommytube said:
This one should be fine:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Regards,
Michael
I have a single four inch piece on mine, driving 101db 8-Ohm speakers. It gets just warm if I listen realy loud (room size is about 15-20, with adjoining room the same size).
thank all of your help.
Because i have ordered two sets of pcb... so i wanta to think of a and b compare to see what different between regulater and not..
Because i have ordered two sets of pcb... so i wanta to think of a and b compare to see what different between regulater and not..
dear maf_au.
can you post a link for the heatsink?
My place cannot find such one... all in place are for to3 type...
can you post a link for the heatsink?
My place cannot find such one... all in place are for to3 type...
Hi All,
I just wanted to throw out my support for Plovati efforts. I would recommend anyone who wants the excellent classic Rev A/C stereo circuit contact him and get in on his offering. It sounds like he is doing a great job, and I wouldn't want anyone to miss out. I am not sure where he is willing to ship, but he has taken on a lot to get this done, and he deserves to succeed. So if you want the stereo board contact him please.
I may offer the original PCBs again at some point but it will not be for a while, so especially for those of you in Italy, please puchase his PCBs. We should all encourage that sort of effort.
Ciao
Russ
I just wanted to throw out my support for Plovati efforts. I would recommend anyone who wants the excellent classic Rev A/C stereo circuit contact him and get in on his offering. It sounds like he is doing a great job, and I wouldn't want anyone to miss out. I am not sure where he is willing to ship, but he has taken on a lot to get this done, and he deserves to succeed. So if you want the stereo board contact him please.
I may offer the original PCBs again at some point but it will not be for a while, so especially for those of you in Italy, please puchase his PCBs. We should all encourage that sort of effort.
Ciao
Russ
derekyu,
This is the heatsink sourse that Brian Donegan used for the original Mauro GB.
The photo I posted above is actually from tommytube's webpage.
Michael
needlz said:
This is the heatsink sourse that Brian Donegan used for the original Mauro GB.
The photo I posted above is actually from tommytube's webpage.
Michael
That is the guy
I got 'em off Ebay from Barredboss. Pretty quick shipping and good communication.
The 12" piece will yield 6 pieces like shown in the picture a few posts back.
I got 'em off Ebay from Barredboss. Pretty quick shipping and good communication.
The 12" piece will yield 6 pieces like shown in the picture a few posts back.
Thanks Russ,
This is a beautiful collaboration among DIYs, in the full "DIYs spirit"...
Ciao
Mauro
Hi All
Mauro did mention right in the beginning the inspiration for this little amp was the MF A370. after some digging (i was looking for circuit to replace my existing mosfet amp's circuit "kraftwerk clone") i stumbled on this circuit. and we can also see where he is comming from.
something i am going to build just to compare if it has the same signature
Cheers
Rudi
Mauro did mention right in the beginning the inspiration for this little amp was the MF A370. after some digging (i was looking for circuit to replace my existing mosfet amp's circuit "kraftwerk clone") i stumbled on this circuit. and we can also see where he is comming from.
something i am going to build just to compare if it has the same signature
Cheers
Rudi
Attachments
rudi said:
Hey Rudi,
I think that schematic is for the P170/P270/P370
I'm not exactly sure what the difference is between an A370 and a P370. Maybe Mauro can say if he heard this one (A370.2):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Or something more like this (P180):
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have a P150 and P170 in various stages of renovation (they are '80's amps) My P150 is a very nice sounding amp, and I aim to compare them all (RevA, RevC, P150, P170) when I get a chance.
Michael
PCB ready gold plated
Just arrived the PCB from Mauro's Rev.A gerber.
Slighty mods:
reduced spacing between board edge (side LM3886) and Lm3886 pin to avoid interference with heath sink: tested ok, PCB does not touch heatsink with Lm3886TF (isolated)
Added a extra hole for mounting
Added wire connection on silk layer and AA BB letter to facilitate the individuation of point to be wire connected
Added few pad for SMD 0805 Rev. C component mounting or helping to solder the trditional one on solder (copper) side.
No solder so all the trace are available to solder some future components or mods
70um copper
Gold plating to avoid oxidation and make better contact.
Top view:
Just arrived the PCB from Mauro's Rev.A gerber.
Slighty mods:
reduced spacing between board edge (side LM3886) and Lm3886 pin to avoid interference with heath sink: tested ok, PCB does not touch heatsink with Lm3886TF (isolated)
Added a extra hole for mounting
Added wire connection on silk layer and AA BB letter to facilitate the individuation of point to be wire connected
Added few pad for SMD 0805 Rev. C component mounting or helping to solder the trditional one on solder (copper) side.
No solder so all the trace are available to solder some future components or mods
70um copper
Gold plating to avoid oxidation and make better contact.
Top view:
Attachments
Re: PCB ready gold plated
On another subject, shoot me an email when you have time. You were asking about obsolete transistors.
George
plovati said:
On another subject, shoot me an email when you have time. You were asking about obsolete transistors.
George
Making RevC from RevA
For sake of review and increase in confidence:
C10, 25 relocate lead & change 100pF to 22 pF
Add
C30, 31 1 nF
C32, 33 150 pF
C34, 35 10 pF
R37, 38 3k3
R39, 40 470k
R41, 42 22k
R43, 44 270
For sake of review and increase in confidence:
C10, 25 relocate lead & change 100pF to 22 pF
Add
C30, 31 1 nF
C32, 33 150 pF
C34, 35 10 pF
R37, 38 3k3
R39, 40 470k
R41, 42 22k
R43, 44 270
Just a note about the heat performance of my case and some responses of visitors regarding my Mauro amp.
I've had a LOT of visitors recently, and about 55 people over for my 50th birthday party. It wasn't a dance party, so I have no tale of woe about the amp catching fire or anything like that 🙂
We left the test system running on the dining room table from about 9am until the following morning around 2am. This is the Mauro, Russ's FreeBird, Rotel 965BX CDP and my Tannoy 603 small bookshelf speakers. People swapped CD's as they felt, there was probably something on about 2/3 the time. Volume was louder than normal because of the extra background noise.
By about 10PM the rear of the case adjacent to where the 3886's are located, was hot to touch, but not so hot you had to remove your finger, It got no hotter than that. I have thought about adding a small heatsink to the back of the case, but I'm not sure it is required, I may wait until summer to see how it goes in warmer weather.
During the party there was a lot of talking going on, but I still had many comments about the sound and look of the amps. When things got quieter, and at other times, a few people have had a more serious listen. All have been delighted at the sound quality, some are genuinely stunned. My sister 'wants one'
Have to say that's a pretty positive endorsement of the amp.. Well done Mauro, Russ and everyone else involved. Can't wait to have a go at RevC!
Michael
I've had a LOT of visitors recently, and about 55 people over for my 50th birthday party. It wasn't a dance party, so I have no tale of woe about the amp catching fire or anything like that 🙂
We left the test system running on the dining room table from about 9am until the following morning around 2am. This is the Mauro, Russ's FreeBird, Rotel 965BX CDP and my Tannoy 603 small bookshelf speakers. People swapped CD's as they felt, there was probably something on about 2/3 the time. Volume was louder than normal because of the extra background noise.
By about 10PM the rear of the case adjacent to where the 3886's are located, was hot to touch, but not so hot you had to remove your finger, It got no hotter than that. I have thought about adding a small heatsink to the back of the case, but I'm not sure it is required, I may wait until summer to see how it goes in warmer weather.
During the party there was a lot of talking going on, but I still had many comments about the sound and look of the amps. When things got quieter, and at other times, a few people have had a more serious listen. All have been delighted at the sound quality, some are genuinely stunned. My sister 'wants one'
Have to say that's a pretty positive endorsement of the amp.. Well done Mauro, Russ and everyone else involved. Can't wait to have a go at RevC!
Michael