So Russ says he would prefer to have a 24VAC toroid but that 22VAC would be fine to.
I suppose I could ask John at Antek about the option to have a discount on how much we buy rather than how many we buy that way we could get either 24 or 22 based on what people wanted. We will see. Give me and Peter a day or so to get it sorted.
Uriah
I suppose I could ask John at Antek about the option to have a discount on how much we buy rather than how many we buy that way we could get either 24 or 22 based on what people wanted. We will see. Give me and Peter a day or so to get it sorted.
Uriah
I am back from vacation and am willing to bundle a
package for this project and will work on this as soon
as I'm caught up...
Being a one man operation is not as easy as it used to be.
I do have all the items needed to finish this project
and will look into a project box too.
I will notify on this thread if I can find a suitable chassis
Steve @ Apex Jr.
package for this project and will work on this as soon
as I'm caught up...
Being a one man operation is not as easy as it used to be.
I do have all the items needed to finish this project
and will look into a project box too.
I will notify on this thread if I can find a suitable chassis
Steve @ Apex Jr.
Peter, Uriah, Russ and Brian-
Am I correct in the PCB size being:
Board size w/o heatsink (from earlier post):
4.115" from back of LM3886 to front, 3.27" wide,
2" high (2.5" incl. standoffs).
I got that off of a post on the Twisted Pair forum (Thanks guys for keeping the legacy product support up on the site!)
Am I correct in the PCB size being:
Board size w/o heatsink (from earlier post):
4.115" from back of LM3886 to front, 3.27" wide,
2" high (2.5" incl. standoffs).
I got that off of a post on the Twisted Pair forum (Thanks guys for keeping the legacy product support up on the site!)
I thought that Antek only made transformers with 24V secondaries in 10 and 600VA?? http://www.antekinc.com/trans.html To get VA ratings between those you have to go with either 22 or 25V secondaries....unless he'd be willing to make some cusomt ones for our group buy, but then again, that'd probably push the cost up to the point of making it..well...pointless
I think I killed my RevC tonight. I built it in Feb '07 and used it to run some Niles speakers from my computer. I also populated a Kookabura but never hooked it up. Last week, lightning took out my living room receiver.
Time to finish the Kookabura ! I used the Avel 15v + 15v that came with the kit but was unsure of how to connect it. I ran one 15v output to each side of the AC pins on the pcb and summed (barrier strip) the two 0v grounds to the center pin AC on the pcb. To power the transformer I plugged the blue (-) and grey (115v) into the same holes in the barrier strip as I was using to power the cheepo gold Parts Express trafo on my RevC.
At first it worked but the volume pot was scratchy. I fixed a cold solder joint on the pot and powered up again. One channel lost 90% power and sounded tinny and the static and popping was still in the pot. One sink was warm, always cool before the Kookabura. Then I lost the other channel. I took the Kookabura out of the circuit and wired the RevC the way I used to have it. Still dead.
Can it be saved ? My post @ Twisted Pair , this was my first amp project.
Time to finish the Kookabura ! I used the Avel 15v + 15v that came with the kit but was unsure of how to connect it. I ran one 15v output to each side of the AC pins on the pcb and summed (barrier strip) the two 0v grounds to the center pin AC on the pcb. To power the transformer I plugged the blue (-) and grey (115v) into the same holes in the barrier strip as I was using to power the cheepo gold Parts Express trafo on my RevC.
At first it worked but the volume pot was scratchy. I fixed a cold solder joint on the pot and powered up again. One channel lost 90% power and sounded tinny and the static and popping was still in the pot. One sink was warm, always cool before the Kookabura. Then I lost the other channel. I took the Kookabura out of the circuit and wired the RevC the way I used to have it. Still dead.
Can it be saved ? My post @ Twisted Pair , this was my first amp project.
Re: question
I would not try it without changing a few things. It is possible, but I would not suggest it for a beginner.
I am sure you can source the part somewhere.
funky2x said:can I replace the LM318 with something like NE5532 or NE5534
or TL072 .
cus I cant get LM318 in my area and cant order it .
I would not try it without changing a few things. It is possible, but I would not suggest it for a beginner.
I am sure you can source the part somewhere.
squalor said:I think I killed my RevC tonight. I built it in Feb '07 and used it to run some Niles speakers from my computer. I also populated a Kookabura but never hooked it up. Last week, lightning took out my living room receiver.
Time to finish the Kookabura ! I used the Avel 15v + 15v that came with the kit but was unsure of how to connect it. I ran one 15v output to each side of the AC pins on the pcb and summed (barrier strip) the two 0v grounds to the center pin AC on the pcb. To power the transformer I plugged the blue (-) and grey (115v) into the same holes in the barrier strip as I was using to power the cheepo gold Parts Express trafo on my RevC.
At first it worked but the volume pot was scratchy. I fixed a cold solder joint on the pot and powered up again. One channel lost 90% power and sounded tinny and the static and popping was still in the pot. One sink was warm, always cool before the Kookabura. Then I lost the other channel. I took the Kookabura out of the circuit and wired the RevC the way I used to have it. Still dead.
Can it be saved ? My post @ Twisted Pair , this was my first amp project.
You basiclaly wired the tranformer secondaries in parallel(getting you a single 15V secondary) instead of series (getting you 30V with a center tap). When you wire a pair a secondaires in series the point at which you join them becomes a ceneter tap. That is what should have been connected to GND.
I am not sure what all is dead. But I would start checking the VREGs. On the RevC I would look at the protection cct and the LM318.
Beyond that advice, I am not sure I can think of much to tell you, except I am very sorry for your bad luck...
Cheers!
Russ
Since I was in such a state of confusion during all this, I feel the skills needed to repair the RevC are beyond me. I also feel the need to own a Carver preAmp.
I propose a offer to any honest chip amp guru here with a big parts drawer. If you repair my RevC I will give you my Kookabura, Darwin and 15v trafo.
I propose a offer to any honest chip amp guru here with a big parts drawer. If you repair my RevC I will give you my Kookabura, Darwin and 15v trafo.
What improvements could I expect...
What improvements could I expect from this approach over the design offered by chipamp.com?
I really know nothing technically, but I can follow directions and solder. I have put together a number of tube amps and will be finishing my chipamp LM3886 dual mono amp over the holiday.
I've seen that there is a group by for this design that I might consider, but I am curious if I will get significant sonic benefits from this design over the one I am currently building.
What improvements could I expect from this approach over the design offered by chipamp.com?
I really know nothing technically, but I can follow directions and solder. I have put together a number of tube amps and will be finishing my chipamp LM3886 dual mono amp over the holiday.
I've seen that there is a group by for this design that I might consider, but I am curious if I will get significant sonic benefits from this design over the one I am currently building.
My first listen is still only on one channel. I think the vocals are much better. I would personally roll off the highs a little. This could be my speakers though. This board is great as it eliminates turn on thump and it protects speakers as well.
The group buy is closed however.
Uriah
The group buy is closed however.
Uriah
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