troyst.
Thanks. The main switch is single phase, so only the active is switched, which is the way it is normally done in Aussie.
schro20.
Glad you like it. The problem with wood front panels is finding a nice wood which is large enough.
A chap on another thread made a good looking front panel with two smaller wood panels on the ends separated with a centre polished copper plate, the whole backed with a 3 or 4mm? aluminium sheet. The centre Al/Cu section is also a convenient place to mount the main switch and Led.
Audie.
Thanks. The main switch is single phase, so only the active is switched, which is the way it is normally done in Aussie.
schro20.
Glad you like it. The problem with wood front panels is finding a nice wood which is large enough.
A chap on another thread made a good looking front panel with two smaller wood panels on the ends separated with a centre polished copper plate, the whole backed with a 3 or 4mm? aluminium sheet. The centre Al/Cu section is also a convenient place to mount the main switch and Led.
Audie.
Member
Joined 2003
I don't think that is what Troyst was getting at. What you have in you chassis is this:billabong said:
AC IN>----<switch>----<fuse
What happens if the switch shorts to the chassis/ground? You blow the breaker in your house rather then the fuse in your box
Better idea:
AC IN>----<fuse>----<switch
Other than that it is a lovely amp. Very neat layout, lots of unused space if you wanted to add other things into the chassis. Maybe a little excessive with the heatsinks, but that's not a bad thing.
Dcibel wrote:
I see your and troystq's point - it would cover every eventuality.
In Australia we have Earth Leakage Circuit Breakers on our power circuits that will trip in the event of 20-30mA leakage current to earth. Should that happen we isolate the faulty circuit and reset the E/L circuit breaker.
I would think that the correctly rated and undamaged snap-in switch I used is highly unlikely to short through it's case to chassis.
Possibly, if an under-rated switch were used, it could cause overheating of the switch causing damage to the casing and then maybe a short to chassis.
Thank you for your kind remarks.
My Amp is not unique to me, as a similar layout has been used by many others. SmellOfPoo's Amp in this thread was my introduction to it.
Since I had some clear pictures of the Amp, I thought it might help the new Revc Group Buy builders, just as I have been helped previously.
Audie.
I see your and troystq's point - it would cover every eventuality.
In Australia we have Earth Leakage Circuit Breakers on our power circuits that will trip in the event of 20-30mA leakage current to earth. Should that happen we isolate the faulty circuit and reset the E/L circuit breaker.
I would think that the correctly rated and undamaged snap-in switch I used is highly unlikely to short through it's case to chassis.
Possibly, if an under-rated switch were used, it could cause overheating of the switch causing damage to the casing and then maybe a short to chassis.
Thank you for your kind remarks.
My Amp is not unique to me, as a similar layout has been used by many others. SmellOfPoo's Amp in this thread was my introduction to it.
Since I had some clear pictures of the Amp, I thought it might help the new Revc Group Buy builders, just as I have been helped previously.
Audie.
I got in on the group buy, and I'm planning my power supply. I know this amp (we really need to give it a cool name) isn't a gainclone, but is Nuuk's gainclone power supply tutorial good to go by? I know the my_ref already has the bridge rectifier, but I'm kind of a newb so I need a good reference for when I am wiring the transformer and the safety stuff (fuse, earth ground etc).
And if so, wtf is an X1 rated capacitor? I can't find any such thing on mouser. This is for the switch.
Also what amperage of fuse should I use, and fast or slow blow?
I need to place a mouser order SOON and I'm gonna get parts for a loop breaker circuit, just so I don't have to order them later and pay more for shipping. Which of these 35A bridge rectifiers should I get? Is a higher reverse voltage better than a lower one?
And if so, wtf is an X1 rated capacitor? I can't find any such thing on mouser. This is for the switch.
Also what amperage of fuse should I use, and fast or slow blow?
I need to place a mouser order SOON and I'm gonna get parts for a loop breaker circuit, just so I don't have to order them later and pay more for shipping. Which of these 35A bridge rectifiers should I get? Is a higher reverse voltage better than a lower one?
pinkfloyd4ever said:
Surely, it's one better than R rated caps
Seriously tho, there's more info here -
http://my.execpc.com/~endlr/line-filter.html
So what amperage of fuse should I use? The 25VAC 400VA Antek toroidal should work well correct? I'm planning building it stereo, with just one transformer for both channels.
Thanks for the info too, quadtech, but where do I find such a capacitor? This is different than the X7R thing with ceramic caps I take it? Just to clarify, this is not for filtering, just to prevent arcing and noise when switching the power,as Nuuk suggest in his gainclone PS guide.
Also, what gauge of wire is recommended for power and amplified signal wiring? Is 24ga too small to use for line level signal wiring?
Thanks for the info too, quadtech, but where do I find such a capacitor? This is different than the X7R thing with ceramic caps I take it? Just to clarify, this is not for filtering, just to prevent arcing and noise when switching the power,as Nuuk suggest in his gainclone PS guide.
If I'm using a DP switch will I need to use two, or will it work the same to just put it on the contacts of the hot wire?
Also, what gauge of wire is recommended for power and amplified signal wiring? Is 24ga too small to use for line level signal wiring?
If you put a CL60 inline with the primary side it will lesson the switch spikes and soften the turn on surge. Not required below 400VA but since you're right at it, it wouldn't hurt.
With a CL60 you could use a 2 AMP fuse.
24 ga is fine for signal.
At least 16Ga for pwr.
All of the stuff required is available at apex.jr's site.
Good easy switch, Teflon insulated Silver plated wiring, fuse holders, "filtered" IEC sockets, RCA's, binding posts..
In fact I will email him and see if he can put together a "kit" of parts for us...
EDIT:
Email sent to Steve to see if he could "bundle" ALL the parts required to finish an amp (EXCEPT CHASSIS)...
I have a word doc if anyone can host it. Can't attach .docs here...
With a CL60 you could use a 2 AMP fuse.
24 ga is fine for signal.
At least 16Ga for pwr.
All of the stuff required is available at apex.jr's site.
Good easy switch, Teflon insulated Silver plated wiring, fuse holders, "filtered" IEC sockets, RCA's, binding posts..
In fact I will email him and see if he can put together a "kit" of parts for us...
EDIT:
Email sent to Steve to see if he could "bundle" ALL the parts required to finish an amp (EXCEPT CHASSIS)...
I have a word doc if anyone can host it. Can't attach .docs here...
A great site! He also has toroids (you have to check whether he has some at this time that will fit here) and heat sinks. Since he is close to where I live I recently visited... What a treasure trove! I cam away with a whole box of stuff. Highly recommended!troystg said:
As regards the turn-on thump... The boards have a speaker turn on delay on them to avoid the thump. However, this does not address the issue of inrush current and the stress that places on parts. It's all a matter of how big the toroid is (as indicated above).
peter
Wahoooo! Look what Peter did:
http://multires.caltech.edu/~ps/Mauro3886PartsFromSteve.pdf
Links under the pictures work, you may have to scroll down to the item your looking for. Some of the pictures on Steve's site can be clicked on to be made larger.
http://multires.caltech.edu/~ps/Mauro3886PartsFromSteve.pdf
Links under the pictures work, you may have to scroll down to the item your looking for. Some of the pictures on Steve's site can be clicked on to be made larger.
SWEEET, thanks for all the info guystroystg said:
something nifty I recently discovered (thru another DIY audio site of coursetroystg said:
Google DocsWell, I bought the 600VA 24V from Antek. I think it will serve me well for decades to come so the fact that it is overkill is not so bad. The inrush was something I had not considered so I bought some CL60 at 5amps. Hopefully this will do the trick. If not its another project. Cuz I dont have enough of those. DIY is sometimes a self inflicted wound that we peer at, pull the scab on and delight in the pain. Masochistic. But then again when it all works out its fantastic fun
So here is a pic of the pdf of the 240V trafo I have in the basement.
Uriah
So here is a pic of the pdf of the 240V trafo I have in the basement.
Uriah
Attachments
Hi,
I thought the pic included that chart. It did in photoshop anyway.
I have to try these tonight, but right now I have the highlighted row configured on the trafo.
I tried a few others with a little jumper I made but I dont remember which ones they were, just that they came in as low voltages like 10-13VAC
I will try the jumper on a few more tonight.
Uriah
I thought the pic included that chart. It did in photoshop anyway.
I have to try these tonight, but right now I have the highlighted row configured on the trafo.
I tried a few others with a little jumper I made but I dont remember which ones they were, just that they came in as low voltages like 10-13VAC
I will try the jumper on a few more tonight.
Uriah
Attachments
Primaries across terminals 1 & 2 will give you your highest secondary voltage.
That is the highest output turns ratio..
Chart says it will do 30VDC but that is 15-0-15... Don't think the trafo will give you 30-0-30 unless your mains are 220VAC..
But you could make a hell of a multi-channel amp active system with that trafo.. +/- 15 for pre, active xo and LM3886/3875...
That is the highest output turns ratio..
Chart says it will do 30VDC but that is 15-0-15... Don't think the trafo will give you 30-0-30 unless your mains are 220VAC..
But you could make a hell of a multi-channel amp active system with that trafo.. +/- 15 for pre, active xo and LM3886/3875...