My 4" Lcd Project, Results

Status
Not open for further replies.
hay ace, yup same res 640x480 60hz for best performance the 540 looks very good at 640x480 and i hope these are just as good, i read somewhere about being able to give a 3D image with 2 lcds i think, maybe you can link me to it or provide some information, i beleive it was a 3D image without the need of those stupid glasses, i have seen a hologram before and i must say ther look unreal maybe we should try looking into it ourselfs, would beed specilized films tho but it would be very......very......i cant think of the word.... but anyways, i will look into it some more and try let you know how its done.

Thanks,
Ryan Edge
 
*update* i couldnt quite understand this but i think thats coz i didnt read it properly looks interesting and do-able

http://www.holographer.org/articles/hg00011/hg00011.pdf

we cannot just use our projectors as i have learned because holograms require the light beams to travel together like lasers but our lamps are made up of 3 colours and do not syick by eachother they breakup..... well thats my laymans explination coz i dont do technical big words lol.

Cheers,
Ryan Edge
 
dicroic is a bit magic

mathias said:
I can´t believe what I´m reading here. A 12V 50W bulb with 16000 lumens......oh come on there is no such magic bulb, it´s probably 16000cd and thats a totaly other thing. What I have read a 12V 50W bulb give 1000lm.:bigeyes:

I was surprised too when I read that but results are really good in pictures. I did some research about " dicroic " lamps. And I found that Dicroic lamps are quite brighter than conventional halogen lamps (at same wattage...)

I will probably buy an ancient lcd projector nowadays ( Philips LCP 5200 ), it uses a 75w / 12v halogen lamp, and it gives ~300-400 lumens with default lamp. I' m hoping to use 100w / 12v dicroic halogen lamp with that. I think I could get some extra 200-300 lumens, so I could be hitting 600 lumens for cheap lol :🙂

Disa81; do you know about Osram 100w/ 12v lamps ( dicroic lamps ), I mean price / brightness / lumen value ..?
 
*News*

well tonight i built a new projector case for my old lcd, i need to put the fresnal in because the light is very unbalenced, no pics jusy yet but i can tell you that it lookd kinds a like a chepo version of aces......really cheapo...lol its not to bad tho.

anyone else got any news?

Cheers,
Ryan Edge
 
MATHIAS: No, really, it's 16.000LM 50w 12volts, these datas are issued by the manufacturer (philips). Follow the link I've posted before, you will find a lot of dichroic lamps. going from 1500Lm to 16.000, al 45-50 Watts..It depends also from the light beam, a 50w with 36°beam it's closer to 1500 lm, the 8° is 16.000LM!
I'm currently using a 8000LM, and you can see the results in te pics I've posted!

HOUSEMACHINE: I can't find here the 100W Osram dichroic, but I know Altec (If a remember) is using a 250W 12volts with very high lumens!
The one I've just ordered is a Philips 50w 16.000 LM, 8°beam, 3000hours life, 3200k color temp

As soon as I receive it I will post details!

RYAN: Happy to hear you're upgrading your project! Post your pics soon! Well, I've just ordered the new lamp,probably I will buy some good fres from Ace, then I have to give a paint to my new PRJ, and cut it a little bit smaller!
 
disa81 said:
MATHIAS: No, really, it's 16.000LM 50w 12volts, these datas are issued by the manufacturer (philips). Follow the link I've posted before, you will find a lot of dichroic lamps. going from 1500Lm to 16.000, al 45-50 Watts..It depends also from the light beam, a 50w with 36°beam it's closer to 1500 lm, the 8° is 16.000LM!

i check more well.........he has reason, it's a 16000 cd, not lm.
 
Its tricky, really it is. When a bulb makes a preformed beam as its output its rated in cd. When speaking of the FILIMENT itself your talking raw lumens. So any refrence to beam size vs. brightness percieved is cd. Candles. Which is what candle is by definition. Perception of overall brightness in said area. Lumens is totally diff. And EVEN LUMENS is rated diff. by each manufacturers scale. As it after all isnt even a "true" rating. One co's 5,000 lumen bulb CAN apear dimmer then anothers 4,000 lumen one. depends on "their" own lumenosity scale. The real problem? You cant have a given when refrencing brightness. It will apear different to each person. And their lies the problem. If co. A claims said watt bulb of said type ='s 5,000 lumens and its based on their scale, who's to say diff? Its just a general idea of the brightness to expect, its not really dead on. Having said that. You can be sure the ENH is much, much, much brighter then the EXT> I have them all so Ive seen it first hand. Its indiscribable, how much brighter the ENH is. But after all, the bulbs are made the same. The same sixe filiment pratically. And thus at higher watts and same type it MUST be that much brighter. And since halo's are "more" efficient at higher watts its lumens per watt ratio increases. Most noticable in dichrotics after 100watts.


"but I know Altec (If a remember) is using a 250W 12volts with very high lumens!"

Close, its even better! It uses 120v A.C.! In the U.S. its no diff then a table lamp. Just plug it in wall and off ya go. easy to mod. The 25o beam is nice for anything from a 4"-10" panel. The lamp holder for them already has mounting holes drilled all over and cost $5.00 also has bulb ejector handle. From what Ive read, OHP setups with ENH produces around 2000 lumens. (thats just stage light not with panel in there) Thats not bad for 250watts and its right for smaller pj's. the bonus is the ENX 360watt fits in the same socket but lasts half as long (only 75 hours). Both are about $10 bulbs.
😀 Heres a bunch of the ANSI code pj and stage bulbs.

http://www.higuchiusa.com/STAGE.HTML
Some are 500watts with like 400 hours but to long of filament to house in most pj reflectors. 😎

And how I found the ENH. This will clear up watts and what dichroic bulbs do. These are often used in dj/club lighting so where better to refrence. Though not in Great detail.

http://www.directdistribution.uk.com/Lighting001.htm

Notcie how much of a diff he says there is between the 100watters and the 250's. Thats cause halo works off heat and reburning itself by redepositing the burnt tungsten filiment back onto itself. This is more eficient the more heat- I.E. more watts the filiment has. And thus makes more lumens. Dichroic's by nature will make colors more vivid in picture by seperating the color bands from white. Or so they say. Im not a scientist or whatever.
🙂
 
ah man, i dont understand how but my comp psu just electricuted me, caused an uper body muscle spasem, was a bit scary but no harm done, i dont think it could hae been 12V cause thats just not enough to cause it, i have hading the switch so i can only assume it was a small 240V wack, i dont really know tho, wasnt painfull just weird and made me jump away from it so i let go, maybe someone else has had this too and know whitch it was.

oh and i bought the second lamp today, i was testing it when it got me, i've parallel and its not working because it needs two 12V supplys to each lamp so i will have to re-wire it then i can tell u how much better it is.

Cheers,
Ryan Edge
 
mmmhh..in this kind of electroductions maybe wattage, or best amperage, counts more.. I think that if you get electricity frow a 12v source with high amperage it would be very dangerous! Have you ever tried to touch the 2 electrods of your car battery??? Don't try that! very harmful!
be careful ryan!

PS: I've searched a little bit more on lights, and I found out the 50w I bought it's a 16.000 CD isdued by Philips..But I found aalso this light, a R111 60w with 48.000CD.. Is that good? I can't fgure out how to know if it's bright enough with CD instaed of LM!
I enclose the image with details
 

Attachments

  • master-line-111-60w-g53-12v.jpg
    master-line-111-60w-g53-12v.jpg
    22 KB · Views: 567
while i was in B&Q today i learned that dichoric lamps arn't mesured in lm there only mesured in cd, i now have 2 4750cd lamps which it getting almost usable in daylight but its getting hotter, but luckily its easy to cool then, i havent got it all setup perfectly yet but its looking good, i'm sure that 48,000cd would be plenty if not over kill, but its gotta be worth a try right if it isnt too expensive.

Thanks,
Ryan Edge
 
Same here with you Ryan, I don't know about lumen thingy and physics but we' re trying for a cheap solution :dead:

Actually 1450 lm will probably drop to ~500-700 lm after passing the lcd screen but effective thing is distance on lumen ratio.

In the PDF file ( @ last post..) there is some schematics. ( bottom of the page )

Lumen ratio is related with distance, so my lamp will give nothing lol from 2.0 meter distance :smash:

I think you could get max 800 lumens with one ~8-10 deg. 4750cd lamp. And after passing lcd screen it will be half, so 400 lumens IMO. ( from 3 meter dist.)

However, with 16.000 cd lamp you could get 1700 lumens pure light. After passing lcd screen it will be 800-1000 lumens , so it would be OK 🙂)

IF you can find 48.000 cd lamp, it will be real killer lol, so I think it will produce some f.king 6000 lumens 😱 , after transition it will be 3000 or more lumens... Very interesting lol 🙂 we all need some confirmation from a prof hahahaaaaha...
 

Attachments

  • 114bdecostarlamps4.gif
    114bdecostarlamps4.gif
    33.1 KB · Views: 516
I hope to post pics soon with the new light.. I'd like to see the results, as it has double CDs than my current one..(from now on I will talk in CDs 😀 )

I found out that r111 costs around 15 € and needs a 12 V adapter.. But it's beam is 8°, the model with 24° puts out 13.000 CDs. And as I can see from the diagrams posted By HouseMachine it also depends from how far you place the light! Mine must be 8000cds from 0.30-0.50 m..

Hey Ryan, how did you put 2 lights togheter in your setup? I'm courios 'cause I'd like to place 2 16.000 cds and see what happens..
Do you have any problem in double-imaging ,ghosting etc?

:smash:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.