Thank you for all input!
The 70Hz resonance that the mid/high panel has is not a problem with the 18dB filter used but it could well be the bass panel that's exciting it acoustically - I'll have to test that!
A Behringer DCX2496 has been on my mind, but I have a battle with myself on this one - I would like it to be DIY all the way!
The latest sweep I made, with the mic in my listening position, showed that a 5dB 50Hz notch and a 5dB lower gain in my dipole compensation filter should do the trick.
A passive solution would be nice, as this makes it easier to try different amps and I will not have to use my custom made PreAmp.
On the other hand, I would like to try and make a LM3886 amp that has LP/HP-filtering built in.
I'll attend a DIY fare in Gothenburg in 10 days, so I'll have to make a choise soon!
Roger
The 70Hz resonance that the mid/high panel has is not a problem with the 18dB filter used but it could well be the bass panel that's exciting it acoustically - I'll have to test that!
A Behringer DCX2496 has been on my mind, but I have a battle with myself on this one - I would like it to be DIY all the way!
The latest sweep I made, with the mic in my listening position, showed that a 5dB 50Hz notch and a 5dB lower gain in my dipole compensation filter should do the trick.
A passive solution would be nice, as this makes it easier to try different amps and I will not have to use my custom made PreAmp.
On the other hand, I would like to try and make a LM3886 amp that has LP/HP-filtering built in.
I'll attend a DIY fare in Gothenburg in 10 days, so I'll have to make a choise soon!
Roger
I really admire guys like yourself who can do that. For the electronically challenged (like me), a DCX2496 is a life saver.
There was soposed to be a smiley behind that scentence! 
A DCX2496 surley would have saved me hours of testing, and next time around - I'll probably use it to find XO points and levels!
If I can tame the resonance at 50Hz with a notch filter, I think I'll go with a passive filter for now.
If not - I'll have to make some active filters!
( On top off that, I have to make a jigg for the speakers so I can transport them to the DIY fare - will be some late evenings the coming week )
Roger
A DCX2496 surley would have saved me hours of testing, and next time around - I'll probably use it to find XO points and levels!
If I can tame the resonance at 50Hz with a notch filter, I think I'll go with a passive filter for now.
If not - I'll have to make some active filters!
( On top off that, I have to make a jigg for the speakers so I can transport them to the DIY fare - will be some late evenings the coming week )
Roger
Hi Roger!
Congrats on new panels! This has triggered a new building process in my end as well! After playing with magnets and foil for a while I have ordere som perforated steel and will spend som time in the cellar - possibly resulting in 2 X ESLs and a thread on the forum.
Regarding active crossover - there is a possibillity to do this semi-DIY by using a miniDSP
Home | miniDSP
I have one that I have briefly tested and the xover-component is promising, and you can built your own cabinet etc to make it DIY.
Look in to it ;-)
Regards
Bent
Congrats on new panels! This has triggered a new building process in my end as well! After playing with magnets and foil for a while I have ordere som perforated steel and will spend som time in the cellar - possibly resulting in 2 X ESLs and a thread on the forum.
Regarding active crossover - there is a possibillity to do this semi-DIY by using a miniDSP
Home | miniDSP
I have one that I have briefly tested and the xover-component is promising, and you can built your own cabinet etc to make it DIY.
Look in to it ;-)
Regards
Bent
After weeks of listening to the speakers I'm very pleased with the sound!
At the fair in Gothenburg the speakers played in a very large room (6-8 times bigger than a normal living room) and it was clear that they were way to small - no bass at all!
At home I have good output from 35Hz, but there are some changes that I'm going to try:
1. Raise the x-over from 175Hz to abt. 3-400Hz. Playing bass-heavy music at
very high SPL-levels I can get the treble panels to arc. This never happens
at "normal" listening levels, but I would like to have some more headroom.
2. Bi-amp the system with active filters for xo, notch and dipolecompensation.
3. Try to integrate a sub from 20 to abt. 50Hz
One thing that I'm extreamly pleased with - the automatic power on circuit for the EHT-units!
Less dust to vacum and the kids are able to use the speakers when watching film etc.
Roger
At the fair in Gothenburg the speakers played in a very large room (6-8 times bigger than a normal living room) and it was clear that they were way to small - no bass at all!
At home I have good output from 35Hz, but there are some changes that I'm going to try:
1. Raise the x-over from 175Hz to abt. 3-400Hz. Playing bass-heavy music at
very high SPL-levels I can get the treble panels to arc. This never happens
at "normal" listening levels, but I would like to have some more headroom.
2. Bi-amp the system with active filters for xo, notch and dipolecompensation.
3. Try to integrate a sub from 20 to abt. 50Hz
One thing that I'm extreamly pleased with - the automatic power on circuit for the EHT-units!
Less dust to vacum and the kids are able to use the speakers when watching film etc.
Roger
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After a humid summer I notices that the tape had lost contact with the stators in some places.
Putting preasure on them only helped for a while, and after a week or two it started to lose contact again.
Faced with a total rebuild off the panels I tried a quick fix, that seems to have worked very well!
.....and a solder iron to make a hole in the foamtape /PVC
The panels now have good contact all over!
/R
Putting preasure on them only helped for a while, and after a week or two it started to lose contact again.
Faced with a total rebuild off the panels I tried a quick fix, that seems to have worked very well!
.....and a solder iron to make a hole in the foamtape /PVC
The panels now have good contact all over!
/R
I've tried to find Nylon screws, but the smallest I can find are M3 (3mm) and the holes in the steel sheets are ~2.6-2.8mm after powdercoating.
The plastic insulators are 3mm but with some preasure they can be forced in the holes and a M2 screw then just has enough clerance!
I have now used the speakers for abt. a day and no hiss or loss in SPL (the feel is that it's actualy higher) can be noticed.
Roger
The plastic insulators are 3mm but with some preasure they can be forced in the holes and a M2 screw then just has enough clerance!
I have now used the speakers for abt. a day and no hiss or loss in SPL (the feel is that it's actualy higher) can be noticed.
Roger
I have used nylon screws in the past and I have found that generally they will strip out easily.
So far I am only able to get adequate holding pressure using large diameter type and they are much much more costly.
I am forced to use steel screws in my panels and design of construction.
I have only had one mishap using steel screws and it was basically due to a mod of adding a charge ring and was it to close to the screw and caused an arc over at the screw.
Also I was applying 25Kv p-p across the stator's when it finally gave out, and, it was caused mainly by a sharp point (the end of a piece of the wire mesh) on the stator that was not insulated properly.
More so than the addition of the charge ring itself.
These are some easy fixes that will be corrected on the next build
I have been wanting very much to try the double sided tape method.
Your report of the tape bonding becoming insecure is not the first time I have heard of this.
Anyway Great fix,I hope this works well for you.
Please keep us inform on the addition of your dipole subs !
jer
So far I am only able to get adequate holding pressure using large diameter type and they are much much more costly.
I am forced to use steel screws in my panels and design of construction.
I have only had one mishap using steel screws and it was basically due to a mod of adding a charge ring and was it to close to the screw and caused an arc over at the screw.
Also I was applying 25Kv p-p across the stator's when it finally gave out, and, it was caused mainly by a sharp point (the end of a piece of the wire mesh) on the stator that was not insulated properly.
More so than the addition of the charge ring itself.
These are some easy fixes that will be corrected on the next build
I have been wanting very much to try the double sided tape method.
Your report of the tape bonding becoming insecure is not the first time I have heard of this.
Anyway Great fix,I hope this works well for you.
Please keep us inform on the addition of your dipole subs !
jer
If you don't mind making two small holes through the tape you can use nylon tie-wraps to prevent the stators from separating. It isn't too pretty but if you put the latch piece of the tie-wrap on the back side of the speaker no one will ever see it.
Tie wraps are dirt cheap, very strong, come in many sizes, and won't strip like plastic screws/nuts. They are also available in a lot of different colors in case you want to get creative.
Tie wraps are dirt cheap, very strong, come in many sizes, and won't strip like plastic screws/nuts. They are also available in a lot of different colors in case you want to get creative.
Excellent suggestion.
I know Sound Lab used dozens of black zip ties to hold front and rear stators together on some of their large faceted panels.
Roger, have you tested the frequency responce of the oil burner transformers? I'l curious what frequency they could be used up to before crossing over to the mid, high panels.
Oops, I see from post #117 that you have already answered my question. So I'll ask another. How is the horizontal dispersion from the tweeter section?
Oops, I see from post #117 that you have already answered my question. So I'll ask another. How is the horizontal dispersion from the tweeter section?
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How is the horizontal dispersion from the tweeter section?Well, actually it is not to bad!
I have great stereo imaging +/- ~one feet sideways sitting in the sweet spot. (The speakers have to be aligned right or this distance falls to only a few inches!)
I align my speakers with the "line" off the tweeters crossing abt. 2-4 inches infront off my nose.
But in all, -It's a plannar! If I sit more than a feet off sweet spot, I only hear the speaker I'm closest to.
It's a trade off, but sitting right - Nothing comes even close to the imaging and clearity that these babys present!
Roger
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