If you are building a straight through design, then it should be as tgreenwood said. If you are building a folded design that will use a mirror, then it has to be right side up as the mirror will invert the image before it reaches the projection lens. When you build your projector I strongly recommend you build a test bed first. This allows you to adjust the distances to get the best picture before you build the final box. Although the focal length calculators are accurate, there is always the final tuning of distances to get right depending on what your design is. Also remember to leave room if in the future you want to add a precondenser lens, as the distances will change with that application.
I had straight through design in mind but am not sure really on which one to go with as I have not build one before.
Which one would you go with if you were in my situation?
I have seen examples of both "straight through design" and "folded design" but am not sure of the differences between the two design in terms of quality, besides one taking more room then the other.
Which one would you go with if you were in my situation?
I have seen examples of both "straight through design" and "folded design" but am not sure of the differences between the two design in terms of quality, besides one taking more room then the other.
Straight through split design- one fresnel on each side of the lcd. Projector sits on the floor and can be angled upwards while the front fresnel is tilted perpendicular to the screen. This is called keystone corection. It works to a maximum of 15 degrees. Slightly less clear picture then unsplit, some people say.
Straight through unsplit sesign- both fresnels are behind the lcd. Projector must be put on a stand and raised so the projection lens is centered to the screen and kept level as there in no keystone correction in this design. This is the design with the clearest picture.
Foled design- uses a mirror to bend the image 90 degrees. This allows the projector to be built vertically to save space. The only drawback is the mirror adsorbs some of the light so less gets through to the screen. Which is no big deal now that there are proper reflectors and precondenser lenses that are now being used. The diy projector has come along way in the last year or so. There are lots of these designs at LumenLab in the plog section. Check it out, I'm sure you'll see something there that you'll like.
Straight through unsplit sesign- both fresnels are behind the lcd. Projector must be put on a stand and raised so the projection lens is centered to the screen and kept level as there in no keystone correction in this design. This is the design with the clearest picture.
Foled design- uses a mirror to bend the image 90 degrees. This allows the projector to be built vertically to save space. The only drawback is the mirror adsorbs some of the light so less gets through to the screen. Which is no big deal now that there are proper reflectors and precondenser lenses that are now being used. The diy projector has come along way in the last year or so. There are lots of these designs at LumenLab in the plog section. Check it out, I'm sure you'll see something there that you'll like.
I am still not sure if I mounted my LCD properly but I am not worried about it at the moment, atleast I know for sure that it works. Its just a matter of flipping it properly. I can do that later aswell.
I order two of the things from LumenLab yesterday: "LL65K T15 Kit" And their "Pro Reflector" to get me started having some of the items one-by-one.
Looking at the plog section, I have decided to go with Split design with 2 frensel. I will draw the design up using Google Sketch but have to figure out the exact size of frensel etc etc.
I have to figure out (1. The two Fresnel Lenses I need and 2. Pro Lense) and I would pretty much have all my ingredents to put this puppy together.
I am bidding on this lense:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...70015372259&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEBI:IT&rd=1
Is that good you think, that is the same size lense 'superdaveumo' used for his 17" and his calculation showed that it would work for a 19"?
I order two of the things from LumenLab yesterday: "LL65K T15 Kit" And their "Pro Reflector" to get me started having some of the items one-by-one.
Looking at the plog section, I have decided to go with Split design with 2 frensel. I will draw the design up using Google Sketch but have to figure out the exact size of frensel etc etc.
I have to figure out (1. The two Fresnel Lenses I need and 2. Pro Lense) and I would pretty much have all my ingredents to put this puppy together.
I am bidding on this lense:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...70015372259&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEBI:IT&rd=1
Is that good you think, that is the same size lense 'superdaveumo' used for his 17" and his calculation showed that it would work for a 19"?
An 18 inch opauqe projector lens doesn't have perfect corner to corner focus on a 17 inch lcd. No chance it working on a 19 inch lcd unless you're willing to accept blurry corners. Check out the plog from "ChristmasGT" and see where he changed to a Pro lens to get good corner focus. And that was a 17 inch lcd, not a 19 inch.
As far as ordering fresnels, the lamp side will have to be a 330mm focal length if you are using a reflector, and the front fresnels focal length is determined by the focal length of the projection lens you are going to use.
As far as ordering fresnels, the lamp side will have to be a 330mm focal length if you are using a reflector, and the front fresnels focal length is determined by the focal length of the projection lens you are going to use.
Thanks Mikey, You have been a lot of help.
Here is what I have in mind. I will bid for the 18" lens, if I get it then I will see how the results are and if not satisfied I can switch to the pro lens.
However saying that the Rare Fresnel would be 330m and the Lense will be the 18", I get the following for my calculations using the Focal Calculator.
LCD Size: 19 Inches
Frensel Gap: 1 Inch or 25.4 mm
Frensel FL: 330 mm
Triplet FL: 550 mm
LCD Distance: 661.09
Screen Distance: 10.57
Screen: 100 Inches
Do this sound right ?
Here is what I have in mind. I will bid for the 18" lens, if I get it then I will see how the results are and if not satisfied I can switch to the pro lens.
However saying that the Rare Fresnel would be 330m and the Lense will be the 18", I get the following for my calculations using the Focal Calculator.
LCD Size: 19 Inches
Frensel Gap: 1 Inch or 25.4 mm
Frensel FL: 330 mm
Triplet FL: 550 mm
LCD Distance: 661.09
Screen Distance: 10.57
Screen: 100 Inches
Do this sound right ?
Not quite. The lens you're bidding on is a 18 inch F.L. 18x25.4=457mm.
So 457 is what you enter in for the triplet F.L., not 550.
This makes the lcd to triplet distance 546mm.
The best fresnel for this set up is the 3dlens.com 550mm.
So 550mm gets entered into the fresnel F.L.
Notice the fresnel F.L. is for the fresnel between the lcd and the triplet. The fresnel F.L. between the lcd and lamp is not important for figuring out the projectors focal calculations therefore it's not included.
Screen size is 100 inches diagonal.
The screen distance is 9 feet.
If you were to use the Lumenlab Pro triplet then things change a little. you would enter 500mm into the triplet F.L.
This makes lcd to triplet distance 598mm. The best fresnel for this setup is the LumenLab 650mm (which has been tested and found to be really 600mm)
Screen size is 100 inch diagonal.
screen distance is 9.8 feet.
With either setup if you're using a reflector then you need a 330mm fresnel on the lamp side.
So 457 is what you enter in for the triplet F.L., not 550.
This makes the lcd to triplet distance 546mm.
The best fresnel for this set up is the 3dlens.com 550mm.
So 550mm gets entered into the fresnel F.L.
Notice the fresnel F.L. is for the fresnel between the lcd and the triplet. The fresnel F.L. between the lcd and lamp is not important for figuring out the projectors focal calculations therefore it's not included.
Screen size is 100 inches diagonal.
The screen distance is 9 feet.
If you were to use the Lumenlab Pro triplet then things change a little. you would enter 500mm into the triplet F.L.
This makes lcd to triplet distance 598mm. The best fresnel for this setup is the LumenLab 650mm (which has been tested and found to be really 600mm)
Screen size is 100 inch diagonal.
screen distance is 9.8 feet.
With either setup if you're using a reflector then you need a 330mm fresnel on the lamp side.
Ok now that answers a lot of questions about the calculator and also is starting to make a bit more sense.
Ok so if I get this right, then I have the following two options:
Withe the 18"
Triplet FL: 550 mm
Withe the Lumen Lab Pro Triplet
Triplet FL: 650 mm
Ok so if I get this right, then I have the following two options:
Withe the 18"
Triplet FL: 550 mm
Withe the Lumen Lab Pro Triplet
Triplet FL: 650 mm
gssmind said:
With the 18 inch lens the triplet F.L. is 457mm and the matching fresnel is 550mm
Lumenlab triplet is 500mm F.L. and the matching fresnel is the Lumenlab 650mm( it really is a 600mm)
Ok Finally I have some pics to share.
This is how I built my Frame.
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Some Part of the old monitor to be reused:
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Steel Frame and the plastic, in between which the LCD will be placed:
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Close up of the same pic:
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All of the pieces together:
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Marked on the outer frame where delicate LCD connectors are to be passed.
Hence I used a Drum Sander and chopped it off:
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The outer frame that goes in the front:
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Close up of the buttons, dono but I might reuse them later:
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Hence I take them off with a screw driver:
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Set of drill bits I got, including the two sets of different kind off screws:
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This is how I built my Frame.
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Some Part of the old monitor to be reused:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Steel Frame and the plastic, in between which the LCD will be placed:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Close up of the same pic:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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All of the pieces together:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Marked on the outer frame where delicate LCD connectors are to be passed.
Hence I used a Drum Sander and chopped it off:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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The outer frame that goes in the front:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Close up of the buttons, dono but I might reuse them later:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Hence I take them off with a screw driver:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Set of drill bits I got, including the two sets of different kind off screws:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Took the circuit out and needed to cut off the dong le that used to hold the clips for the monitor stand:
Chopped it off with a saw:
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Another pic on the back panel that was on the way, molded in the back frame:
Hence used a screw driver and took it off:
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Entire view:
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Now the back frame was bent on the edges, so straitened it out:
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This is how I planed to mount it on the back:
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Entire bottom frame by itself:
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Need to drill space for monitor wire to come outside:
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Picture of tools used:
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Tools at work:
Close Up:
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End Result:
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Placed the bottom panel and marked the four holes to be placed:
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Size of nut and bolt to be placed:
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Chopped it off with a saw:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Another pic on the back panel that was on the way, molded in the back frame:
Hence used a screw driver and took it off:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Entire view:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
Now the back frame was bent on the edges, so straitened it out:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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This is how I planed to mount it on the back:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Entire bottom frame by itself:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Need to drill space for monitor wire to come outside:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Picture of tools used:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Tools at work:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Close Up:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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End Result:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Placed the bottom panel and marked the four holes to be placed:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
Size of nut and bolt to be placed:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
End Results:
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Marked on the outer frame where delicate LCD connectors are to be passed.
Hence I used a Drum Sander and chopped it off:
******************************************************************
Marked on the outer frame where delicate LCD connectors are to be passed.
Hence I used a Drum Sander and chopped it off:
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Pictured how to place the frame:
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Left 3/4" on each side:
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Marked, Pre-drilled and here we go:
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End Result:
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
Marked on the outer frame where delicate LCD connectors are to be passed.
Hence I used a Drum Sander and chopped it off:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
Marked on the outer frame where delicate LCD connectors are to be passed.
Hence I used a Drum Sander and chopped it off:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
Pictured how to place the frame:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Left 3/4" on each side:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
Marked, Pre-drilled and here we go:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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End Result:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Marked the sides of the frame:
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One of the corner edge needs to be chopped off a bit for the screw:
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Here is why I spent some time chopping the corner off:
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Pre-Drilled and Screwed about 3 to 4 of 1/2" screws on each side:
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End Result:
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Here is what I did to the bottom of each sides of the frame:
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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One of the corner edge needs to be chopped off a bit for the screw:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Here is why I spent some time chopping the corner off:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Pre-Drilled and Screwed about 3 to 4 of 1/2" screws on each side:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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End Result:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Here is what I did to the bottom of each sides of the frame:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Pre-drilled and screwed single bolt in the top panel of the frame:
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Took of the non conductor material that I pealed off earlier:
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Glued and used electric tape to stick the non-conductor material on two of the side:
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Finally the LCD pic:
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This tape was too sticky and was being a pain so I decided to remove it off:
I EXTREMELY CAREFULLY cut using a blade:
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Close up of the cutting:
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Took of the non conductor material that I pealed off earlier:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Glued and used electric tape to stick the non-conductor material on two of the side:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Finally the LCD pic:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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This tape was too sticky and was being a pain so I decided to remove it off:
I EXTREMELY CAREFULLY cut using a blade:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Close up of the cutting:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Placed the plastic back to the frame:
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I carefully placed the LCD in the frame:
Close Up of the edge:
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This is how it looked on the back:
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I had to take of the top frame as I did not feel comfortable press the front too hard:
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This is why I too it out:
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Bolt the screws and reconnected the top panel of the frame:
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Finally Connected the LCD:
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Finally Tested it out:
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Looking good so far 😉
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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I carefully placed the LCD in the frame:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Close Up of the edge:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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This is how it looked on the back:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
I had to take of the top frame as I did not feel comfortable press the front too hard:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
This is why I too it out:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
Bolt the screws and reconnected the top panel of the frame:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
******************************************************************
Finally Connected the LCD:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Finally Tested it out:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Looking good so far 😉
I think I have posted too many pictures, so I am going to leave them on here for few days and then move them to my personal site and just post a link.
Just makes things a lot easy that way 😉
Just makes things a lot easy that way 😉
Interesting, it looks pretty smooth (this coming from another newbie), but I'm curious as to how your going to mount your fresnels now with that pcb where it's at.
I was planning to do it with a 17" NEC monitor originally, but lately I've been thinking of changing to a 19" Widescreen for the native widescreen resolution and better stats than my 17". I didn't manage to get much past my reflector for my ushio 400w mh bulb, before life interferred and I started thinking about changing panels. So I'm interested to see how yours turns out.
I was planning to do it with a 17" NEC monitor originally, but lately I've been thinking of changing to a 19" Widescreen for the native widescreen resolution and better stats than my 17". I didn't manage to get much past my reflector for my ushio 400w mh bulb, before life interferred and I started thinking about changing panels. So I'm interested to see how yours turns out.
Nice to see I have some feedback. Thanks "Dovienya"
I thought about that aswell and am working on designing that right now with the entire encloser using Google Sketchup so will have some images posted soon and then hopefully I can get some feedback for changes etc.
I thought about that aswell and am working on designing that right now with the entire encloser using Google Sketchup so will have some images posted soon and then hopefully I can get some feedback for changes etc.
I have two questions:
Question 1:
How do I remove/delete an old post?
Question 2:
I was just about to order my Fresnel's and the "Groove Pitch" was a new term that I saw when ordering it from 3Dlens.com. I have decided to get 330mm and a 550mm Fresnel's however they are both "Groove pitch: 0.2mm (127 grooves per inch)" at 3Dlens.com and so I check on LL's website and see "Groove Pitch: .5mm (After consulting with our engineers we have decided that a .5mm groove pitch is optimum for maximum performance.)" So my question is one better then the other for my case?
Please enlighten the newbee with your knowledge.
Thanks in advance.
Question 1:
How do I remove/delete an old post?
Question 2:
I was just about to order my Fresnel's and the "Groove Pitch" was a new term that I saw when ordering it from 3Dlens.com. I have decided to get 330mm and a 550mm Fresnel's however they are both "Groove pitch: 0.2mm (127 grooves per inch)" at 3Dlens.com and so I check on LL's website and see "Groove Pitch: .5mm (After consulting with our engineers we have decided that a .5mm groove pitch is optimum for maximum performance.)" So my question is one better then the other for my case?
Please enlighten the newbee with your knowledge.
Thanks in advance.
If you can't edit a post then contact a moderator and explain what you want done.
The consensus on groove pitch is in a split configuration you gain a little more sharpness at the expense of a little brightness. Do a search at LumenLab for "groove pitch" and see what you come up with.
Your project is looking good so far. I'm looking forward to your design.
The consensus on groove pitch is in a split configuration you gain a little more sharpness at the expense of a little brightness. Do a search at LumenLab for "groove pitch" and see what you come up with.
Your project is looking good so far. I'm looking forward to your design.
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